The World's Most Scenic Railway Journeys (2019) s01e02 Episode Script
North Spain
1
Join us on a remarkable 600 mile
train journey
through the wonders of northern
Spain.
This is amazing. You can see the
different landscapes.
This time we will be going
off the beaten track
to seek out the region's finest
cuisine
Sometimes you are full of
sardines.
sample it's rarest
delicacies
The flavour is absolutely amazing.
and soak up it's history.
They say that it's part of our
culture.
It's not only a dream.
It's how to live it.
We'll meet the people who live and
work along this special line
We've been doing the same
since the beginning of the train.
It's a custom.
on a train ride that will take
you to its highest peaks.
You cannot fail to be totally
bowled over by it. Wow.
and unearth some of its
architectural curiosities.
It represents some kind of
craziness.
before you arrive at one
of Spain's hidden gems
the astonishing Cathedrals Beach.
This is no ordinary railway journey.
This is one of the most
scenic railways in the world
Spain.
And this is where our Spanish
railway adventure begins.
A few miles from the city of Leon,
nestling in the shadow of the great
Teleno Mountain
is the sleepy
station of San Feliz.
But once a week, it becomes
a hive of activity,
when an exclusive train is prepared
for an extraordinary journey.
Entering service in 1983, the 250
metre long, 2.5 metres wide,
El Transcantabrico is more than just
a passenger train,
It's a luxury hotel on wheels.
When the train is full,
we could be around 46 people here.
When it's full it's a bit of a
roller-coaster. Yes.
With the luggage loaded
and the slippers at the ready,
it's time to welcome
the passengers on.
36 French, Spanish
and German travellers
SPEAKING SPANISH
all eager to experience
the finest food
and best views
North Spain has to offer.
And with a clink of the champagne
glasses
we're off.
Departing San Feliz,
we are heading east across Leon,
through the Cantabrian Mountains
into the Basque country,
and the city of Bilbao.
From there, we will turn west
and follow the rugged Atlantic
coastline,
slowly winding our way through the
beautiful landscapes
of Cantabria and Asturias,
until we reach our final
destination,
the breathtaking Cathedrals Beach at
Ribadeo in Galicia.
With a week to travel the 600 mile
route,
overnighting in stations along the
way,
the joy is going to be in
the journey.
But as the lush green plains
of Leon roll by,
there's one thing about this train
the passengers are going to have to
get used to.
It moves quite a lot because of
the track here,
which is one metre and is quite
narrow
and the stability of the train
is not the same as a conventional
train.
SPEAKS SPANISH
People get a little bit dizzy
because of the movement
The first day, it may be a bit worse
and it's getting better and better.
You know, they get used to it. Yeah.
The El Transcantabrico shares this
single track
with regular commuter trains
on one of the longest narrow gauge
railways in Spain.
As we begin making our ascent
into the Cantabrian Mountains
we're heading along one of the
most dramatic parts of the line
towards the railway's birthplace
in the tiny town of Cistierna,
our first stop.
Ever since it opened in 1894,
the railway has been at the heart of
life here.
People who get the train
on a daily basis
know everyone from different
villages,
so they meet on the train and
they chat.
But as locals judit and Barbara
know, when the line was constructed,
it wasn't really built
for passengers at all.
This area, it was full of coal mines
and they wanted to transport the
coal from here, from Leon,
on to the Basque country.
So they decided that the cheapest
way of doing it
was to build a railway.
But determined to keep the price
down,
they imported a narrow gauge
railway from Britain.
They reduced 60% of the budget
for the construction of the train.
So it was clever, I guess.
The trains were British, but it was
up to Spanish engineers
to work out the 300 mile
route to the Basque country.
They told me that to design
the line,
as it was full of mountains,
they were sending horses
to see how the horses
were going around the
mountains. The path. The path.
Yeah, to decide the path.
Following the horses paid off.
And when the line opened,
Cistierna became Spain's
first railway boom town.
Suddenly, after the station and
after the railway, it became a town.
It had almost 8,000 inhabitants.
They came from all around Spain
to work here in the coal mines.
Many, many immigrants came here.
These clays, the coal trains
have long gone,
but the old Transcantabrico
still follows the same route
they took from Cistierna to
Bilbao.
And although we're sharing the line
with the regular trains
heading to the city,
that's where the similarity ends.
TANNOY ANNOUNCEMENT SOUNDS
VOICE OVER TANNOY - IN FOREIGN
LANGUAGE
Today's main course is beef
medallions with puree vegetables,
followed by a warm apple tart,
all freshly made on board
by Chef Andres.
The hardest part is knowing the
dynamic.
How much to work beforehand.
One gets better with practice.
With its own special timetable,
mealtimes on board are set to
coincide with the best views.
And today is no exception
as we cross the epic Ebro Viaduct
and continue to follow a meandering
path set out by horses
through the Cantabrian Mountains.
On board the rocking and rolling
train,
it's up to the team of five waiters
to ensure Chef Andres' creations
make it safely to the tables.
The main worry is that you drop
something on top of a customer,
you know, that is our worst
fear,
but hopefully, fingers crossed,
touch wood, it won't happen today.
I am less comfortable when
discussing,
because sometimes I am very clumsy.
Clumsy in English?
SPEAKS SPANISH
Yes.
After dinner, the train
glides into the evening
to arrive at our stop
for the night
at Mercadillo Villasana.
And whilst a magician
entertains the passengers
THEY LAUGH
Maria and her crew work
their magic
to get the train ready for the
morning.
Now, I'm working to finish the
report.
In one hour, I go to bed.
Tomorrow at 06:00, up
and we start the day.
Then we will be off to our next stop
to feast on the architectural
wonders of Bilbao,
the great cultural capital of the
Basque country.
He's like an animal that is moving
through the city, you know?
It's 08:00AM on board
the El Transcantabrico,
our slow train through the wonders
of northern Spain
Sometimes they get stuck.
and it's waiter Vicente's
turn to wake up the passengers.
Every morning we play this bell to
announce breakfast starts.
We've been doing the same
since the beginning of the train,
so it's a custom that's lasted for a
long time.
Now, in its 36th year,
Spain's first sleeper train has
become a well-oiled machine.
The 11 staff are all geared
up for another day.
This morning I'm in charge
of the coffees,
so I make the coffees, the teas
and the rest of the things.
And the table is set for the next
leg of our journey.
This morning, we will be leaving
Villasana
to explore the architectural
delights of Bilbao
in the heart of Basque Country, just
25 miles up the track.
THEY SPEAK FRENCH
We're following the winding
Ria De Bilbao River,
heading through the suburbs
towards the city's stunning
14th century centre.
But to get an understanding
of the history of Bilbao
and the Basque country,
you don't have to leave the station.
What makes this place special
for locals like Unai
is this epic stained-glass window.
Well, it's become the symbol
of the city.
All over the stained-glass window
we can see references
to the history of Bilbao,
the foundation of it in the
1300s.
I particularly like the references
to mining
because we can't understand the
history of Bilbao,
and I would say the history
of the Basque country,
without understanding what iron
ore meant for the city
and for the region.
But when it was made in the 1940s,
the window featured the coat of arms
of the fascist dictator Franco,
and it was seen as a symbol
of oppression here.
The Basque Country has it's own
language,
a language that could not be spoken,
had no official recognition when
Franco ruled.
Franco's persecution of the Basque
people
led separatists to launch a violent
campaign for independence.
But when Franco died in 1975
and democracy was restored,
his coat of arms was replaced.
It's always been a great
work of art,
so, of course, it means
a lot of things for us.
And, also, I think it's a very nice
welcome
for all of those coming to visit us.
But at the end of the 1970s,
it wasn't just the window
here that had to change.
The heavy industries that have
defined the city
were beginning to shut down,
so Bilbao took the extraordinary
step
and decided to rebrand itself
with modern art.
This is Puppy by American
artist Jeff Koons.
Made out of 60,000 living flowers,
this giant 42 foot high West
Highland Terrier
has stood guard outside the
Guggenheim Museum of Modern Art
for over 20 years.
But when this futuristic
£200 million building
was first proposed, many believed
it would fail.
Local artist Jesus witnessed
how it transformed Bilbao.
My first time here was in 1977,
cos I came here to study the fine
arts.
Then, I remember this area, this
river
was full of sea vessels, a huge
factory.
Almost five square miles
of shipyards and foundries
were cleared to make way
for the museum.
And when the titanium and limestone
building eventually opened in 1997,
critics and locals loved it.
I love it because it's different.
It's like an animal that is moving
through the city, you know?
It's very organic building mixed
with the bridge,
mixed in with the river and, also,
with the city, you know?
Today, the Guggenheim is considered
to be the most successful piece
of modern architecture in the world,
bringing in more than a million
visitors a year to the city.
After a busy morning lapping
up the culture,
it's time to get
back on our train.
Leaving Bilbao and the Basque
Country, we're heading west
and soon rolling through the
beautiful green foothills
of Cantabria.
As the passengers sit back
and relax,
it gives Elena, our on board tour
guide,
some time to enjoy the journey.
This is amazing. You can see the
different landscapes
all around the north of Spain.
And you can also feel the
feeling or the environment
of being transported to the to the
beginning of the 20th century.
This afternoon, we've stopped
at the quiet rural station
of Cabezon De La Sal to explore
a 19th century marvel
hidden in the woods.
This is El Capricho De Gaudi.
It represents some kind of craziness
or passion.
People say it's made by Lego.
If you are a bit younger, people say
it's made with Minecraft.
If I had to choose only one element
or one word to describe this house,
it's the "sunflower".
This house is an architectural
sunflower.
Or, if you want, this is the house
of the sun.
This extraordinary house
was the brainchild
of one of Spain's most revered
architects - Antoni Gaudi.
Gaudi was probably one of the
greatest architects of modern
history.
This is one of the oldest Gaudi
houses, built in 1885,
and Capricho was built for a man
called Maximo De Quijano.
Mr De Quijano was an immigrant,
he made a big fortune in Cuba,
and once he came back, he chose
Gaudi to build a house
for his retirement.
One of the things that I love
more about this house
is the use of tiles, ceramics.
Every single sunflower,
it's different.
We have hundreds, thousands of them.
The sunflower is not only
like a decorative element,
the sunflower represents
the whole idea of the house.
In this building,
every room is designed in relation
with the position of the sun.
Gaudi filled the house with
elaborate windows,
but he made sure they did more than
let in the sunlight.
So, let me show you the magic
of this house.
Instead of using counterweights
to open the sash windows,
Gaudi used bells.
BELLS CHIMING
Bells that are producing musical
notes,
music that represents the history of
the house,
the history of the owner, Mr De
Quijano, a huge lover of piano.
So Well, at the end
it all makes sense.
But, sadly, Mr De Quijano never got
to enjoy Gaudi's musical windows,
he died a year before the house
was completed.
We're continuing our journey
westward and some new arrivals
have joined us on the train.
Retired academic Peter and his wife
Angela from Liverpool
are here to celebrate their golden
wedding anniversary.
Immediate impression is wonderful.
I mean, it's just really got
style and it's good
and it rattles along in the way
that a proper train should.
So it's good. And the scenery, the
landscape around
is very interesting. I think it's
just lovely.
And the service and the drinks
Perfect. Wonderful.
And the bathroom is bigger than the
other trains we've been on.
I always worry about how small the
bathroom is going to be.
But the bathroom is brilliant.
After a few hours taking
in the Cantabria countryside,
we're about to begin a new chapter
in our journey.
We cross the border between
Cantabria and Asturias.
There's a river. Yeah. One side
of the river is Cantabria,
and the other side is Asturias.
So now we are in Asturias.
For me, it's the most beautiful
region in Spain,
not because I am from Asturias,
but you have many advantages.
You have, very close, the sea
and the mountains.
Very few regions in the world
can offer that.
We are now travelling through one
of Spain's wildest
and most mountainous regions.
Asturias is home to many
rare species.
And if you look carefully into the
woods streaming past the windows,
you might be lucky enough to see
one of the rarest animals of all
wolves.
Extinct throughout the rest
of the country,
2,500 wolves have managed to survive
in this part of Spain.
And for the past 18 years,
Emilio Garcia has been working hard
to keep them here.
We are just now in the territory of
a wolf pack here in Asturias.
Wolf diet, it's different between
packs.
Some packs feeds mainly
on wild prey
and another pack feeds on livestock.
Wolves are frequently killed
by angry farmers,
and in order to protect them,
Emilio is investigating what the
wolves might have been hunting.
I'm trying to find some piece
of bones or skin
or something that could be used to
remind that this is a kill site.
Maybe in an area like this,
you really know when you are very
close to the wolves,
maybe 100 metres, 50 metres, and
you can't see anything.
After hours of searching,
Emilio spots something. There.
Here it is.
It's the remains of a farmer's
horse.
Wolves have eaten every single
piece of meat,
whatever they can has been
eaten.
This is a full kill by wolves.
In the last three days,
at least one wolf,
but probably more wolves have been
here for two or three days
feeding on this horse.
With dozens more horses grazing
nearby,
Emilio knows the farmers are likely
to take matters
into their own hands.
Livestock owners are angry
with the wolves.
They want to do
To solve the problem, they usually
want to kill the wolves.
It's very, very complicated, this.
But wolves can roam for hundreds
of miles,
and there is still a chance
this pack could move on
and head deeper into the mountains.
And that's where we're going,
as we head towards one of North
Spain's highest peaks.
For tour guide Elena, it's one of
the highlights of the entire trip.
Tomorrow I like a lot,
cos it's really special to drive
into the mountains,
and, for the guests, it's
amazing, it's incredible.
It's very, very special.
But first,
this is where we will be spending
the night.
It arrives in Arriondas
This is the station.
We are arriving.
We are on the platform. We're going
to open the doors.
You can get off the train.
It's a beautiful city, and the
weather is very mild.
Beautiful day.
In the morning, we'll be departing
this rather unassuming station
and heading up to Asturias'
highest peaks
to explore one
of the jewels of Spain,
the epic Picos De Europa.
Everything you could hope for.
Totally bowled over by it.
It's just Wow.
This is the town of Arriondas
in Asturias, northern Spain.
It might seem like an unlikely stop
for our luxury sightseeing train,
the El Transcantabrico,
but this ordinary town sits
in an extraordinary location,
which is only revealed
when the mist clears.
These are the Picos De Europa,
"The Peaks Of Europe".
The highest mountains in the
Cantabrian range.
And this is what we've come to
see
the epic Enol lake,
surrounded by pristine alpine
pastures.
For most, this is the ultimate
backdrop for a holiday snap.
But it's much more than that for
retired academic Peter.
I mean, it's a typical glacial
landscape.
We talk about climate change now,
but this is a result of climate
change about 30,000 years ago,
when all of this would've been solid
ice.
So what we've got with the lake
is the remnant of what was the
ice.
And it just gives such a lovely,
lovely panorama, doesn't it?
I mean, it's just unbelievable,
really.
And for centuries, cattle
have been a part of the landscape
as every summer, Asturian farmers
leave their herds here to graze.
You know, the sound of the cow
bells,
the thing that's making the noise,
the clanger, is a tooth of a goat
and the tooth of the goat is what
clangs against the metal bit.
And that's the thing that's there
for the shepherds
to hear where they are.
So when they come in about
September, October,
to collect them all, they listen to
the sound of their particular bells.
And that's what gets them
down there.
And it's just amazing, isn't it?
When you look at it, you cannot fail
to be totally bowled over by it.
It's just Wow.
After a morning drinking
in the mountain views,
it's time to get back on our train.
Leaving Arriondas
and the mountains behind,
we're heading west towards the Bay
of Biscay,
and our next destination, the
coastal town of Candas.
We're off to sample some
of the finest seafood
in all of Spain.
But, first, we're about to meet the
Transcantabrico's sister train
heading in the opposite direction.
This is Candas. This is the place
we're going to stop.
And we cross the other train, the
luxury train.
Luxury train Gran Lujo.
The brief stopover has become
something of a weekly ritual
for the two crews.
THEY SPEAK SPANISH
This is the train driver.
SPEAKS SPANISH
This is the engine driver Pablo.
It's a big family.
We spend a lot of time together.
Normally we work together,
sometimes,
because we don't always work in the
same train.
It will change from train to train.
So all the people here have worked
together sometime during the season.
She's the best, yes.
You only have to have a look
and She's the best.
Hugs and kisses and accolades over,
and we're back on the track,
heading along the rugged Asturian
coastline.
For thousands of years, the people
here relied on fishing for survival
and on one fish in particular,
which became so important
to inhabitants of the next stop.
They hold a special festival
each year in its honour.
Soon we're arriving in the pretty
seaside town of Candas,
just in time for the start.
The whole town is dressed in
traditional clothes
and is packed into the park for the
Festival Of The Sardine.
This big celebration of small fish
started in 1970.
The highlight of the day is the
sardine cooking competition.
Seven local restaurants go
head-to-head,
all hoping to win the coveted
Golden Sardine Award.
Alain, the local doctor,
has been running the festival
for the past five years.
We have the biggest chef from
Asturias,
and today from the south of
Spain, from Malaga,
who comes here to bring these
awards.
These fish awards, these Sardines
Awards.
And it is a pleasure to me to
organise, every year,
this festival.
The town's relationship with
sardines
goes back to when it was founded
in the Middle Ages.
But it really took off in the
late-19th century
when they started to put them in
tins.
Candas soon became the sardine
capital of Spain.
10,000 people worked in the town's
ten canning factories.
But since sardine fishing was banned
here to protect fish stocks in 2011,
all the factories have gone.
We don't fish more sardines, no.
But the history of Candas is in the
sea.
So we need to maintain our
traditions.
These clays, all the sardines come
from Portugal,
but the cooking competition is still
a big deal.
Local restauranteur Marcos
is one of the judges.
We want fresh fish, we want the
texture, not so fat
and the exact point of salt
and the presentation, obviously.
The judges begin working their way
round the competitor's stalls.
It's very difficult because each
piece is different.
Sometimes it's quite difficult
with the judging,
because, you know, out of seven
sardines, it's step-by-step,
sometimes you are full of sardines.
Whilst a traditional Asturians dance
band entertains the crowd,
the judges make their final
deliberations.
It's not easy to know
who is better than another.
But the jury has got the blind test.
And I don't know. I don't
eat sardines, you know?
I eat other fish, but not sardines.
So I don't know. I don't know,
really.
Everyone is waiting with bated
breath.
In a few minutes, we tell the
winner of the contest.
But, first, there are prizes
for this year's runners up.
SPEAKING SPANISH
Soon there is only
one golden sardine left.
SPEAKING SPANISH
APPLAUSE AND CHEERING
And the winner is Angel.
But it's not really a surprise.
Angel always seems to win.
In the last eight years, eight
times.
The best sardine of Candas.
So, nothing fishy there then.
After a night in Candas, we get
a leisurely breakfast
in the station.
This morning, we're heading
south towards our next stop
the ancient city of Oviedo,
just 25 miles down the line.
There's just enough time to finish
the coffees
and we're arriving in the Asturian
capital.
For 1,100 years,
this city has been an important stop
for pilgrims
walking the Camino de Santiago,
one of Europe's most sacred
pilgrimage.
And this is what they've come
to see.
The ancient cathedral of
San Salvador.
Today, more than 300,000 pilgrims
a year still pass through Oviedo
on their way to visit the resting
place of St James,
200 miles to the west in Santiago.
ALL: Ultreya!
And the constant flow of pilgrims
has given rise to a unique tradition
here.
This is the Bulevar De La Sidra,
the Boulevard Of Cider.
100 metres from here,
you have the start of the
old Santiago De Compostela Way
so St James' way.
That's why, I suppose, a lot of
pilgrims come here.
I mean, many came here
and made their own cider
in this part of the city, too.
And we keep doing the same.
Here, pilgrims drinking cider.
I told you.
But it's not just pilgrims.
For millennia, the locals
have been coming to this street
for a glass or two of Asturian
cider.
Every night is like this one.
You have young people, medium age,
all people drinking with each other.
That's why they say it's part
of our culture.
Alberto has worked in his family's
sidreria all his life.
He's one of their best
pouring guys in Asturias.
Cider is most definitely
in his blood.
It's the unique cider in the world,
that you have to pour it to
activate all their flavours,
and drink in one shot, in one go
before it gets flat.
The taste is much better and he's
much better for the stomach too.
It's great.
I'm the fifth generations
doing and having a restaurant.
It's like a tradition.
My father back, Paco, is one of
the
He created this restaurant 20,
21 years ago.
I'm the next generation.
I hope my daughter is going to
keep doing the same with this.
Today, the region's cider industry
has become big business,
producing a staggering 40 million
litres of the stuff a year.
We think that it's very important
to keep doing the things that always
works.
The way of life of Asturian people
is the cider and is the food,
that, for us, is culture.
It's not only drink, it's not
only eat,
it's more than that.
Now we've soaked in enough
Asturian culture,
it's time to go.
We're on board the El
Transcantabrico,
and we're beginning the final leg
of our week long journey
through northern Spain.
The crew are coming to the end
of their month long shift
on the train.
Quite happy. Tomorrow I have three
weeks off,
so, well, I'm in high
spirits.
Very good.
This morning, even a minor accident
on board
is something to laugh about.
They were setting up the tables
for the next day.
He was walking with two
or three plates on his hands.
He tripped over and he managed
to drop the plates.
What happened is that, actually,
when the plate hit the floor,
he go afterward with his head.
He hit him with his head.
That's what happened.
But our trip isn't over yet.
There's one more stunning
surprise in store.
This morning, we'll be travelling
westward along the Asturian coast
and into Galicia to our final stop
at Ribadeo,
to explore the astonishing
cathedrals beach.
But as we leave Asturias
for the last time,
there's one more view to watch out
for.
That is the E0 river,
which is the natural border between
Asturias and Galicia.
On that side is Asturias
and now we are already in Galicia.
And we're just a few minutes
from our final destination,
just over the Galician border.
There we go, there we go.
TANNOY: Good morning, ladies and
gentleman.
In a moment we will arrive in
Galicia.
We've arrived at this ordinary
looking station
on the coast of Spain's most
westerly region
to see something
extraordinary.
Galicia is famed for having some
of the finest beaches in the world,
but very few people outside of Spain
know about this one.
Here, the constant battering of
the powerful Atlantic waves
has created an astonishing natural
wonder,
but only a lucky few get to see it.
It's only revealed for a few
hours at a time at low tide.
This is Galicia's hidden
geological gem.
The breathtaking Cathedrals Beach,
a dramatic series of caves and
arches
that stretch almost half
a mile along the coast.
And for the last ten years, Galician
piper Albano
has been providing a Celtic
soundtrack for sightseers here.
The name for this instrument
is gaita.
It's like a bagpipes in English.
Bagpipes have been the Galician
national instrument
since the 13th century.
But as Albano has learnt,
the traditional Pipers outfit wasn't
really designed for the beach.
The worst thing is the sun.
I'm really hot.
For centuries, this area
was known only to the locals.
They called it the place
of the holy waters.
But when Spanish guidebooks
in the 1970s started featuring it
and renamed it Cathedral Beach, it
led to a bit of confusion.
There were people who phone to
the tourist information office
to ask about, "What time is the
mass?"
There is no mass on this beach.
It's not a cathedral made for
a group of priests,
because it's made by nature.
But the caves and arches aren't
the only natural wonder
that are revealed by the low tide.
There's a rare local delicacy
that grows here,
and Mayor Fernando knows just where
to find them.
OK, I'm going to show to you
We are going past through one of the
two most important
and famous arches here in the
Cathedrals Beach.
The barnacle's a strange animal
who lives in this part of the rocks.
We can see there are lots of
barnacles.
These are pollicipes, otherwise
known as edible gooseneck barnacles.
It's an animal that is very
expensive.
You can buy one kilogram
of barnacles,
on the coast, it's 60 euros per
kilo.
A very special gift, you can
offer to your guest
a kilogram of boiled barnacles.
It's absolutely banned to collect,
to catch them, to eat,
except for the outside
people.
For us, it's forbidden.
But I can catch one.
Just one. Just one.
'Just one. I
But the flavour
Z1
Smell and taste like the best
of the sea.
The flavour is absolutely amazing.
But the tide waits for no man.
And with the waves returning,
it's time for us to go.
SPEAKS SPANISH
The luggage is being unloaded.
Our trip through northern Spain is
coming to an end.
On our 600 mile train journey
across this little known part
of the country,
we marvelled at its architecture
and its stunning scenery.
We've tasted food cooked by award
winning chefs,
drunk cider with the locals and got
a taste of its rich history,
all from the comfort of
an extraordinary train.
The landscapes we've seen
have been terrific and,
of course, the food. This was
gastronomic heaven!
First class.
Join us on a remarkable 600 mile
train journey
through the wonders of northern
Spain.
This is amazing. You can see the
different landscapes.
This time we will be going
off the beaten track
to seek out the region's finest
cuisine
Sometimes you are full of
sardines.
sample it's rarest
delicacies
The flavour is absolutely amazing.
and soak up it's history.
They say that it's part of our
culture.
It's not only a dream.
It's how to live it.
We'll meet the people who live and
work along this special line
We've been doing the same
since the beginning of the train.
It's a custom.
on a train ride that will take
you to its highest peaks.
You cannot fail to be totally
bowled over by it. Wow.
and unearth some of its
architectural curiosities.
It represents some kind of
craziness.
before you arrive at one
of Spain's hidden gems
the astonishing Cathedrals Beach.
This is no ordinary railway journey.
This is one of the most
scenic railways in the world
Spain.
And this is where our Spanish
railway adventure begins.
A few miles from the city of Leon,
nestling in the shadow of the great
Teleno Mountain
is the sleepy
station of San Feliz.
But once a week, it becomes
a hive of activity,
when an exclusive train is prepared
for an extraordinary journey.
Entering service in 1983, the 250
metre long, 2.5 metres wide,
El Transcantabrico is more than just
a passenger train,
It's a luxury hotel on wheels.
When the train is full,
we could be around 46 people here.
When it's full it's a bit of a
roller-coaster. Yes.
With the luggage loaded
and the slippers at the ready,
it's time to welcome
the passengers on.
36 French, Spanish
and German travellers
SPEAKING SPANISH
all eager to experience
the finest food
and best views
North Spain has to offer.
And with a clink of the champagne
glasses
we're off.
Departing San Feliz,
we are heading east across Leon,
through the Cantabrian Mountains
into the Basque country,
and the city of Bilbao.
From there, we will turn west
and follow the rugged Atlantic
coastline,
slowly winding our way through the
beautiful landscapes
of Cantabria and Asturias,
until we reach our final
destination,
the breathtaking Cathedrals Beach at
Ribadeo in Galicia.
With a week to travel the 600 mile
route,
overnighting in stations along the
way,
the joy is going to be in
the journey.
But as the lush green plains
of Leon roll by,
there's one thing about this train
the passengers are going to have to
get used to.
It moves quite a lot because of
the track here,
which is one metre and is quite
narrow
and the stability of the train
is not the same as a conventional
train.
SPEAKS SPANISH
People get a little bit dizzy
because of the movement
The first day, it may be a bit worse
and it's getting better and better.
You know, they get used to it. Yeah.
The El Transcantabrico shares this
single track
with regular commuter trains
on one of the longest narrow gauge
railways in Spain.
As we begin making our ascent
into the Cantabrian Mountains
we're heading along one of the
most dramatic parts of the line
towards the railway's birthplace
in the tiny town of Cistierna,
our first stop.
Ever since it opened in 1894,
the railway has been at the heart of
life here.
People who get the train
on a daily basis
know everyone from different
villages,
so they meet on the train and
they chat.
But as locals judit and Barbara
know, when the line was constructed,
it wasn't really built
for passengers at all.
This area, it was full of coal mines
and they wanted to transport the
coal from here, from Leon,
on to the Basque country.
So they decided that the cheapest
way of doing it
was to build a railway.
But determined to keep the price
down,
they imported a narrow gauge
railway from Britain.
They reduced 60% of the budget
for the construction of the train.
So it was clever, I guess.
The trains were British, but it was
up to Spanish engineers
to work out the 300 mile
route to the Basque country.
They told me that to design
the line,
as it was full of mountains,
they were sending horses
to see how the horses
were going around the
mountains. The path. The path.
Yeah, to decide the path.
Following the horses paid off.
And when the line opened,
Cistierna became Spain's
first railway boom town.
Suddenly, after the station and
after the railway, it became a town.
It had almost 8,000 inhabitants.
They came from all around Spain
to work here in the coal mines.
Many, many immigrants came here.
These clays, the coal trains
have long gone,
but the old Transcantabrico
still follows the same route
they took from Cistierna to
Bilbao.
And although we're sharing the line
with the regular trains
heading to the city,
that's where the similarity ends.
TANNOY ANNOUNCEMENT SOUNDS
VOICE OVER TANNOY - IN FOREIGN
LANGUAGE
Today's main course is beef
medallions with puree vegetables,
followed by a warm apple tart,
all freshly made on board
by Chef Andres.
The hardest part is knowing the
dynamic.
How much to work beforehand.
One gets better with practice.
With its own special timetable,
mealtimes on board are set to
coincide with the best views.
And today is no exception
as we cross the epic Ebro Viaduct
and continue to follow a meandering
path set out by horses
through the Cantabrian Mountains.
On board the rocking and rolling
train,
it's up to the team of five waiters
to ensure Chef Andres' creations
make it safely to the tables.
The main worry is that you drop
something on top of a customer,
you know, that is our worst
fear,
but hopefully, fingers crossed,
touch wood, it won't happen today.
I am less comfortable when
discussing,
because sometimes I am very clumsy.
Clumsy in English?
SPEAKS SPANISH
Yes.
After dinner, the train
glides into the evening
to arrive at our stop
for the night
at Mercadillo Villasana.
And whilst a magician
entertains the passengers
THEY LAUGH
Maria and her crew work
their magic
to get the train ready for the
morning.
Now, I'm working to finish the
report.
In one hour, I go to bed.
Tomorrow at 06:00, up
and we start the day.
Then we will be off to our next stop
to feast on the architectural
wonders of Bilbao,
the great cultural capital of the
Basque country.
He's like an animal that is moving
through the city, you know?
It's 08:00AM on board
the El Transcantabrico,
our slow train through the wonders
of northern Spain
Sometimes they get stuck.
and it's waiter Vicente's
turn to wake up the passengers.
Every morning we play this bell to
announce breakfast starts.
We've been doing the same
since the beginning of the train,
so it's a custom that's lasted for a
long time.
Now, in its 36th year,
Spain's first sleeper train has
become a well-oiled machine.
The 11 staff are all geared
up for another day.
This morning I'm in charge
of the coffees,
so I make the coffees, the teas
and the rest of the things.
And the table is set for the next
leg of our journey.
This morning, we will be leaving
Villasana
to explore the architectural
delights of Bilbao
in the heart of Basque Country, just
25 miles up the track.
THEY SPEAK FRENCH
We're following the winding
Ria De Bilbao River,
heading through the suburbs
towards the city's stunning
14th century centre.
But to get an understanding
of the history of Bilbao
and the Basque country,
you don't have to leave the station.
What makes this place special
for locals like Unai
is this epic stained-glass window.
Well, it's become the symbol
of the city.
All over the stained-glass window
we can see references
to the history of Bilbao,
the foundation of it in the
1300s.
I particularly like the references
to mining
because we can't understand the
history of Bilbao,
and I would say the history
of the Basque country,
without understanding what iron
ore meant for the city
and for the region.
But when it was made in the 1940s,
the window featured the coat of arms
of the fascist dictator Franco,
and it was seen as a symbol
of oppression here.
The Basque Country has it's own
language,
a language that could not be spoken,
had no official recognition when
Franco ruled.
Franco's persecution of the Basque
people
led separatists to launch a violent
campaign for independence.
But when Franco died in 1975
and democracy was restored,
his coat of arms was replaced.
It's always been a great
work of art,
so, of course, it means
a lot of things for us.
And, also, I think it's a very nice
welcome
for all of those coming to visit us.
But at the end of the 1970s,
it wasn't just the window
here that had to change.
The heavy industries that have
defined the city
were beginning to shut down,
so Bilbao took the extraordinary
step
and decided to rebrand itself
with modern art.
This is Puppy by American
artist Jeff Koons.
Made out of 60,000 living flowers,
this giant 42 foot high West
Highland Terrier
has stood guard outside the
Guggenheim Museum of Modern Art
for over 20 years.
But when this futuristic
£200 million building
was first proposed, many believed
it would fail.
Local artist Jesus witnessed
how it transformed Bilbao.
My first time here was in 1977,
cos I came here to study the fine
arts.
Then, I remember this area, this
river
was full of sea vessels, a huge
factory.
Almost five square miles
of shipyards and foundries
were cleared to make way
for the museum.
And when the titanium and limestone
building eventually opened in 1997,
critics and locals loved it.
I love it because it's different.
It's like an animal that is moving
through the city, you know?
It's very organic building mixed
with the bridge,
mixed in with the river and, also,
with the city, you know?
Today, the Guggenheim is considered
to be the most successful piece
of modern architecture in the world,
bringing in more than a million
visitors a year to the city.
After a busy morning lapping
up the culture,
it's time to get
back on our train.
Leaving Bilbao and the Basque
Country, we're heading west
and soon rolling through the
beautiful green foothills
of Cantabria.
As the passengers sit back
and relax,
it gives Elena, our on board tour
guide,
some time to enjoy the journey.
This is amazing. You can see the
different landscapes
all around the north of Spain.
And you can also feel the
feeling or the environment
of being transported to the to the
beginning of the 20th century.
This afternoon, we've stopped
at the quiet rural station
of Cabezon De La Sal to explore
a 19th century marvel
hidden in the woods.
This is El Capricho De Gaudi.
It represents some kind of craziness
or passion.
People say it's made by Lego.
If you are a bit younger, people say
it's made with Minecraft.
If I had to choose only one element
or one word to describe this house,
it's the "sunflower".
This house is an architectural
sunflower.
Or, if you want, this is the house
of the sun.
This extraordinary house
was the brainchild
of one of Spain's most revered
architects - Antoni Gaudi.
Gaudi was probably one of the
greatest architects of modern
history.
This is one of the oldest Gaudi
houses, built in 1885,
and Capricho was built for a man
called Maximo De Quijano.
Mr De Quijano was an immigrant,
he made a big fortune in Cuba,
and once he came back, he chose
Gaudi to build a house
for his retirement.
One of the things that I love
more about this house
is the use of tiles, ceramics.
Every single sunflower,
it's different.
We have hundreds, thousands of them.
The sunflower is not only
like a decorative element,
the sunflower represents
the whole idea of the house.
In this building,
every room is designed in relation
with the position of the sun.
Gaudi filled the house with
elaborate windows,
but he made sure they did more than
let in the sunlight.
So, let me show you the magic
of this house.
Instead of using counterweights
to open the sash windows,
Gaudi used bells.
BELLS CHIMING
Bells that are producing musical
notes,
music that represents the history of
the house,
the history of the owner, Mr De
Quijano, a huge lover of piano.
So Well, at the end
it all makes sense.
But, sadly, Mr De Quijano never got
to enjoy Gaudi's musical windows,
he died a year before the house
was completed.
We're continuing our journey
westward and some new arrivals
have joined us on the train.
Retired academic Peter and his wife
Angela from Liverpool
are here to celebrate their golden
wedding anniversary.
Immediate impression is wonderful.
I mean, it's just really got
style and it's good
and it rattles along in the way
that a proper train should.
So it's good. And the scenery, the
landscape around
is very interesting. I think it's
just lovely.
And the service and the drinks
Perfect. Wonderful.
And the bathroom is bigger than the
other trains we've been on.
I always worry about how small the
bathroom is going to be.
But the bathroom is brilliant.
After a few hours taking
in the Cantabria countryside,
we're about to begin a new chapter
in our journey.
We cross the border between
Cantabria and Asturias.
There's a river. Yeah. One side
of the river is Cantabria,
and the other side is Asturias.
So now we are in Asturias.
For me, it's the most beautiful
region in Spain,
not because I am from Asturias,
but you have many advantages.
You have, very close, the sea
and the mountains.
Very few regions in the world
can offer that.
We are now travelling through one
of Spain's wildest
and most mountainous regions.
Asturias is home to many
rare species.
And if you look carefully into the
woods streaming past the windows,
you might be lucky enough to see
one of the rarest animals of all
wolves.
Extinct throughout the rest
of the country,
2,500 wolves have managed to survive
in this part of Spain.
And for the past 18 years,
Emilio Garcia has been working hard
to keep them here.
We are just now in the territory of
a wolf pack here in Asturias.
Wolf diet, it's different between
packs.
Some packs feeds mainly
on wild prey
and another pack feeds on livestock.
Wolves are frequently killed
by angry farmers,
and in order to protect them,
Emilio is investigating what the
wolves might have been hunting.
I'm trying to find some piece
of bones or skin
or something that could be used to
remind that this is a kill site.
Maybe in an area like this,
you really know when you are very
close to the wolves,
maybe 100 metres, 50 metres, and
you can't see anything.
After hours of searching,
Emilio spots something. There.
Here it is.
It's the remains of a farmer's
horse.
Wolves have eaten every single
piece of meat,
whatever they can has been
eaten.
This is a full kill by wolves.
In the last three days,
at least one wolf,
but probably more wolves have been
here for two or three days
feeding on this horse.
With dozens more horses grazing
nearby,
Emilio knows the farmers are likely
to take matters
into their own hands.
Livestock owners are angry
with the wolves.
They want to do
To solve the problem, they usually
want to kill the wolves.
It's very, very complicated, this.
But wolves can roam for hundreds
of miles,
and there is still a chance
this pack could move on
and head deeper into the mountains.
And that's where we're going,
as we head towards one of North
Spain's highest peaks.
For tour guide Elena, it's one of
the highlights of the entire trip.
Tomorrow I like a lot,
cos it's really special to drive
into the mountains,
and, for the guests, it's
amazing, it's incredible.
It's very, very special.
But first,
this is where we will be spending
the night.
It arrives in Arriondas
This is the station.
We are arriving.
We are on the platform. We're going
to open the doors.
You can get off the train.
It's a beautiful city, and the
weather is very mild.
Beautiful day.
In the morning, we'll be departing
this rather unassuming station
and heading up to Asturias'
highest peaks
to explore one
of the jewels of Spain,
the epic Picos De Europa.
Everything you could hope for.
Totally bowled over by it.
It's just Wow.
This is the town of Arriondas
in Asturias, northern Spain.
It might seem like an unlikely stop
for our luxury sightseeing train,
the El Transcantabrico,
but this ordinary town sits
in an extraordinary location,
which is only revealed
when the mist clears.
These are the Picos De Europa,
"The Peaks Of Europe".
The highest mountains in the
Cantabrian range.
And this is what we've come to
see
the epic Enol lake,
surrounded by pristine alpine
pastures.
For most, this is the ultimate
backdrop for a holiday snap.
But it's much more than that for
retired academic Peter.
I mean, it's a typical glacial
landscape.
We talk about climate change now,
but this is a result of climate
change about 30,000 years ago,
when all of this would've been solid
ice.
So what we've got with the lake
is the remnant of what was the
ice.
And it just gives such a lovely,
lovely panorama, doesn't it?
I mean, it's just unbelievable,
really.
And for centuries, cattle
have been a part of the landscape
as every summer, Asturian farmers
leave their herds here to graze.
You know, the sound of the cow
bells,
the thing that's making the noise,
the clanger, is a tooth of a goat
and the tooth of the goat is what
clangs against the metal bit.
And that's the thing that's there
for the shepherds
to hear where they are.
So when they come in about
September, October,
to collect them all, they listen to
the sound of their particular bells.
And that's what gets them
down there.
And it's just amazing, isn't it?
When you look at it, you cannot fail
to be totally bowled over by it.
It's just Wow.
After a morning drinking
in the mountain views,
it's time to get back on our train.
Leaving Arriondas
and the mountains behind,
we're heading west towards the Bay
of Biscay,
and our next destination, the
coastal town of Candas.
We're off to sample some
of the finest seafood
in all of Spain.
But, first, we're about to meet the
Transcantabrico's sister train
heading in the opposite direction.
This is Candas. This is the place
we're going to stop.
And we cross the other train, the
luxury train.
Luxury train Gran Lujo.
The brief stopover has become
something of a weekly ritual
for the two crews.
THEY SPEAK SPANISH
This is the train driver.
SPEAKS SPANISH
This is the engine driver Pablo.
It's a big family.
We spend a lot of time together.
Normally we work together,
sometimes,
because we don't always work in the
same train.
It will change from train to train.
So all the people here have worked
together sometime during the season.
She's the best, yes.
You only have to have a look
and She's the best.
Hugs and kisses and accolades over,
and we're back on the track,
heading along the rugged Asturian
coastline.
For thousands of years, the people
here relied on fishing for survival
and on one fish in particular,
which became so important
to inhabitants of the next stop.
They hold a special festival
each year in its honour.
Soon we're arriving in the pretty
seaside town of Candas,
just in time for the start.
The whole town is dressed in
traditional clothes
and is packed into the park for the
Festival Of The Sardine.
This big celebration of small fish
started in 1970.
The highlight of the day is the
sardine cooking competition.
Seven local restaurants go
head-to-head,
all hoping to win the coveted
Golden Sardine Award.
Alain, the local doctor,
has been running the festival
for the past five years.
We have the biggest chef from
Asturias,
and today from the south of
Spain, from Malaga,
who comes here to bring these
awards.
These fish awards, these Sardines
Awards.
And it is a pleasure to me to
organise, every year,
this festival.
The town's relationship with
sardines
goes back to when it was founded
in the Middle Ages.
But it really took off in the
late-19th century
when they started to put them in
tins.
Candas soon became the sardine
capital of Spain.
10,000 people worked in the town's
ten canning factories.
But since sardine fishing was banned
here to protect fish stocks in 2011,
all the factories have gone.
We don't fish more sardines, no.
But the history of Candas is in the
sea.
So we need to maintain our
traditions.
These clays, all the sardines come
from Portugal,
but the cooking competition is still
a big deal.
Local restauranteur Marcos
is one of the judges.
We want fresh fish, we want the
texture, not so fat
and the exact point of salt
and the presentation, obviously.
The judges begin working their way
round the competitor's stalls.
It's very difficult because each
piece is different.
Sometimes it's quite difficult
with the judging,
because, you know, out of seven
sardines, it's step-by-step,
sometimes you are full of sardines.
Whilst a traditional Asturians dance
band entertains the crowd,
the judges make their final
deliberations.
It's not easy to know
who is better than another.
But the jury has got the blind test.
And I don't know. I don't
eat sardines, you know?
I eat other fish, but not sardines.
So I don't know. I don't know,
really.
Everyone is waiting with bated
breath.
In a few minutes, we tell the
winner of the contest.
But, first, there are prizes
for this year's runners up.
SPEAKING SPANISH
Soon there is only
one golden sardine left.
SPEAKING SPANISH
APPLAUSE AND CHEERING
And the winner is Angel.
But it's not really a surprise.
Angel always seems to win.
In the last eight years, eight
times.
The best sardine of Candas.
So, nothing fishy there then.
After a night in Candas, we get
a leisurely breakfast
in the station.
This morning, we're heading
south towards our next stop
the ancient city of Oviedo,
just 25 miles down the line.
There's just enough time to finish
the coffees
and we're arriving in the Asturian
capital.
For 1,100 years,
this city has been an important stop
for pilgrims
walking the Camino de Santiago,
one of Europe's most sacred
pilgrimage.
And this is what they've come
to see.
The ancient cathedral of
San Salvador.
Today, more than 300,000 pilgrims
a year still pass through Oviedo
on their way to visit the resting
place of St James,
200 miles to the west in Santiago.
ALL: Ultreya!
And the constant flow of pilgrims
has given rise to a unique tradition
here.
This is the Bulevar De La Sidra,
the Boulevard Of Cider.
100 metres from here,
you have the start of the
old Santiago De Compostela Way
so St James' way.
That's why, I suppose, a lot of
pilgrims come here.
I mean, many came here
and made their own cider
in this part of the city, too.
And we keep doing the same.
Here, pilgrims drinking cider.
I told you.
But it's not just pilgrims.
For millennia, the locals
have been coming to this street
for a glass or two of Asturian
cider.
Every night is like this one.
You have young people, medium age,
all people drinking with each other.
That's why they say it's part
of our culture.
Alberto has worked in his family's
sidreria all his life.
He's one of their best
pouring guys in Asturias.
Cider is most definitely
in his blood.
It's the unique cider in the world,
that you have to pour it to
activate all their flavours,
and drink in one shot, in one go
before it gets flat.
The taste is much better and he's
much better for the stomach too.
It's great.
I'm the fifth generations
doing and having a restaurant.
It's like a tradition.
My father back, Paco, is one of
the
He created this restaurant 20,
21 years ago.
I'm the next generation.
I hope my daughter is going to
keep doing the same with this.
Today, the region's cider industry
has become big business,
producing a staggering 40 million
litres of the stuff a year.
We think that it's very important
to keep doing the things that always
works.
The way of life of Asturian people
is the cider and is the food,
that, for us, is culture.
It's not only drink, it's not
only eat,
it's more than that.
Now we've soaked in enough
Asturian culture,
it's time to go.
We're on board the El
Transcantabrico,
and we're beginning the final leg
of our week long journey
through northern Spain.
The crew are coming to the end
of their month long shift
on the train.
Quite happy. Tomorrow I have three
weeks off,
so, well, I'm in high
spirits.
Very good.
This morning, even a minor accident
on board
is something to laugh about.
They were setting up the tables
for the next day.
He was walking with two
or three plates on his hands.
He tripped over and he managed
to drop the plates.
What happened is that, actually,
when the plate hit the floor,
he go afterward with his head.
He hit him with his head.
That's what happened.
But our trip isn't over yet.
There's one more stunning
surprise in store.
This morning, we'll be travelling
westward along the Asturian coast
and into Galicia to our final stop
at Ribadeo,
to explore the astonishing
cathedrals beach.
But as we leave Asturias
for the last time,
there's one more view to watch out
for.
That is the E0 river,
which is the natural border between
Asturias and Galicia.
On that side is Asturias
and now we are already in Galicia.
And we're just a few minutes
from our final destination,
just over the Galician border.
There we go, there we go.
TANNOY: Good morning, ladies and
gentleman.
In a moment we will arrive in
Galicia.
We've arrived at this ordinary
looking station
on the coast of Spain's most
westerly region
to see something
extraordinary.
Galicia is famed for having some
of the finest beaches in the world,
but very few people outside of Spain
know about this one.
Here, the constant battering of
the powerful Atlantic waves
has created an astonishing natural
wonder,
but only a lucky few get to see it.
It's only revealed for a few
hours at a time at low tide.
This is Galicia's hidden
geological gem.
The breathtaking Cathedrals Beach,
a dramatic series of caves and
arches
that stretch almost half
a mile along the coast.
And for the last ten years, Galician
piper Albano
has been providing a Celtic
soundtrack for sightseers here.
The name for this instrument
is gaita.
It's like a bagpipes in English.
Bagpipes have been the Galician
national instrument
since the 13th century.
But as Albano has learnt,
the traditional Pipers outfit wasn't
really designed for the beach.
The worst thing is the sun.
I'm really hot.
For centuries, this area
was known only to the locals.
They called it the place
of the holy waters.
But when Spanish guidebooks
in the 1970s started featuring it
and renamed it Cathedral Beach, it
led to a bit of confusion.
There were people who phone to
the tourist information office
to ask about, "What time is the
mass?"
There is no mass on this beach.
It's not a cathedral made for
a group of priests,
because it's made by nature.
But the caves and arches aren't
the only natural wonder
that are revealed by the low tide.
There's a rare local delicacy
that grows here,
and Mayor Fernando knows just where
to find them.
OK, I'm going to show to you
We are going past through one of the
two most important
and famous arches here in the
Cathedrals Beach.
The barnacle's a strange animal
who lives in this part of the rocks.
We can see there are lots of
barnacles.
These are pollicipes, otherwise
known as edible gooseneck barnacles.
It's an animal that is very
expensive.
You can buy one kilogram
of barnacles,
on the coast, it's 60 euros per
kilo.
A very special gift, you can
offer to your guest
a kilogram of boiled barnacles.
It's absolutely banned to collect,
to catch them, to eat,
except for the outside
people.
For us, it's forbidden.
But I can catch one.
Just one. Just one.
'Just one. I
But the flavour
Z1
Smell and taste like the best
of the sea.
The flavour is absolutely amazing.
But the tide waits for no man.
And with the waves returning,
it's time for us to go.
SPEAKS SPANISH
The luggage is being unloaded.
Our trip through northern Spain is
coming to an end.
On our 600 mile train journey
across this little known part
of the country,
we marvelled at its architecture
and its stunning scenery.
We've tasted food cooked by award
winning chefs,
drunk cider with the locals and got
a taste of its rich history,
all from the comfort of
an extraordinary train.
The landscapes we've seen
have been terrific and,
of course, the food. This was
gastronomic heaven!
First class.