100 Foot Wave (2021) s01e04 Episode Script

Surfing big waves is spiritual.
It's nature manifesting itself in the most intense way.
The sea moves, and the sea speaks, without us hearing a voice.
It can talk in a way that leaves us in ecstasy.
We are the ones guiding the board.
But we are always being tested.
And if you get hurt, it may look like it's the end, but no.
Our mind guides us.
If we put our mind to it, and put in the work, we can make it happen.
Check out these monster 100 foot waves off Portugal.
The biggest wave ever surfed, as high as 100 feet.
To put it in perspective, that is taller than an eight story building.
Surfers are always looking for the next great thing.
It often breaks those brave or crazy board riders.
Severe wipeouts and waves of mind boggling heights.
What happens here, happens nowhere else in the world.
The biggest wave ever surfed.
A 100 foot wave.
100 FOOT WAVE Chapter IV Dancing with God A gnarly wipeout in Half Moon Bay.
McNamara falls off his surfboard and hits the water three times.
Yeah, I saw Garret's wipeout.
Skip, skip, crunch.
I went over the handlebars and hit the water super hard and then I just started skipping like a stone.
And then the lift landed on me, and then I was under water forever and it was like a normal pounding.
But underwater I felt this crazy, excruciating pain and I couldn't move my arm.
Some are now calling this wipeout one of the worst ever recorded.
He got to the hospital and they were like, you shattered your shoulder and the humerus head was shattered like an egg shell.
When I found out he got hurt, I was kind of scared.
I did whatever I could.
I started making calls and seeing who could help.
Garrett's brother, Liam, was a godsend.
He found a surgeon who would work on him.
The next morning he came out of surgery.
He said put my shoes on, we're out of here.
We flew back home.
A week after the first surgery we go to see Dr.
Weldon.
And they both simultaneously said the surgery went perfect and we're expected to have a full recovery.
I glance at the X-ray and I saw some disturbing images.
When the head is down underneath the acromion, it's a sign that your axillary nerve is not firing.
And he says that Garrett needs another surgery because the first one failed.
Garrett comes out of the surgery and I'm there, and he wakes up.
But he can't feel anything because they have a nerve blocker, so they tell us the nerve blocker should last 24 hours.
With one hour of him being out of the surgery, all of a sudden it was like that movie Hostel.
It's like this bloody murder, like from the depths of his soul, like just screaming in pain.
He's like, I don't feel anything, I just want another nerve blocker.
He's asking me to get him a plastic bag so that he can kill himself, and if I don't give him the plastic bag, he's going to rip everything out and go to the top of the building and jump off.
This depression and pain went on for months.
The doctor said that I should never surf again.
I just told him, we just can't even let that be a possibility.
So don't even think about that.
Not a reality, so don't even give it any energy.
I started doing all my physical therapy and my stretches.
It took a long while for him to get back in the water.
But we were back in Portugal pretty soon after.
There was events he had to be at.
We still report to sponsors to feed our family.
We had various other meetings too.
I was invited here to get to know you guys and your company.
Looking for new opportunities and new projects to keep the sponsors happy.
He was just miserable with this arm and not being able to surf.
Are you back around surfing now? Not 100%.
Doctor's think I'll need a third surgery, but they don't know me that well.
I went back to Hawaii.
I could ride waves, but I wasn't comfortable, I wasn't ready for big ones.
I knew I was going to be able to, but I was wondering if I was going to want to go back out in big waves.
There he is, I hear him.
Holy moly, look at that thing! Your bone has definitely healed.
You have evidence of healing through here.
So very good, very good.
Congratulations on doing so well with your shoulder.
It's remarkable.
And it's even possible given how far you've come that you could get enough so that you could be similar to this side.
When I first saw you, I mentioned that I had taken care of someone who had fallen off a cliff and I treated his elbow with no problem, but his brain was messed up.
He was in tears all the time.
I missed that he had PTSD.
Definitely I have PTSD and definitely working through it right now.
I don't know until I get a really heaving pounding and I'll see if I enjoy it or not.
Thank you.
Really appreciate it.
Congratulations, I look forward to seeing you back at Mavericks.
Garrett is a mutant.
To be able to do what he does at this age He is a warrior.
But we all deal with fear, right? I started surfing at 8 years old.
At 12 I was competing and won a championship.
And I identified myself as a big wave surfer.
My life was all about going after big waves.
I had the opportunity to meet Garrett in 2000.
When I went to Hawaii, I lived at his house.
He stayed in a little storage shed that we turned into a bedroom for him.
We surfed a lot together, we had a really good time together.
The person who shared the most with me about Nazaré was Garrett.
And at the time I thought, "I need to go to Nazaré".
This is the Formula One of surfing.
This is the place that changes everything.
But in 2014, I got a very big wave and I remember seeing the cliff and thinking, "if I go down this wave, I will die".
And that's the thought that made me not ride that wave.
He decided to go over the lip.
But the next wave is right there.
That wave landed right on Koxa's head.
I was diagnosed with post-traumatic stress.
I was afraid to surf big waves.
I lost my sponsors.
He was really struggling.
He didn't know if he'd ever surf big waves again.
I spent a year without getting on big waves.
I had to work and do therapy.
so that I could understand the significance of giant waves for me, how important it was for me, how I wanted it to be part of my story.
Ready? I was able to surf again.
But I had to align everything.
Sometimes we want to anticipate the process.
We want things in our time, but God decides the right time.
In 2017 there was a big swell.
You get those perfect moments when the second wave of the set is smooth.
Look how clean that is.
It's just a perfectly smooth, it's groomed and there's a lot of room in between sets.
Let's do it, Cotty's frothing.
Nazaré was huge.
I didn't want to wait.
I wanted to get out there.
I was prepared to go all day.
I knew someone was going to get one of the biggest waves of the year.
I saw some sick fucking waves.
Like sick.
A frames.
A lot of people turn up for that swell.
Big and pretty.
It's super pretty.
So it looks small, but it's not small at all.
- How big is it out there, do you think? - I think it's huge.
Paddling, Lucas? I'm gonna try.
I hope the wind doesn't get too strong.
This is my baby.
Ten kilos.
In 2017, I was stronger than ever.
After everything I'd been through, that accident and the therapy, everything was perfect, everything was coming together.
I like this wind because it make the wave bigger.
When I came here this morning it was just perfect.
The forecasters were wrong again.
You don't get days like this often here.
You've got the birds and the sun.
Come on! It's gonna be interesting to see who shows up.
It's gonna be exciting to watch everybody.
Probably I think at the minimum I'll drive Cotty and Hugo into a few waves and then I'll assess the situation out there, see if there's any waves that I would like to ride.
I have a feeling I'm not gonna want to ride any.
It was looking a bit funky at first light and then about quarter to seven I got the sickest set I've seen in a long time.
Way more groovy than I thought it would be.
Been visualizing the day before the wave that I wanted.
I was super confident, I was in a good place.
It was like an all or nothing day.
I was prepared to put it all on the line, you know? What's the worst crash you've seen? Cotty.
As far as the force of the sea's impact on a human being it was Cotty.
I put him on the wave.
I put him on the perfect spot, it was nice and smooth and beautiful and he came down and he did a little fade and then he turned so that he could get into the barrel.
And when he turned it was too late and the lip was coming straight for him.
I stayed out the back.
Hugo got him.
Hugo ran him up the beach.
What happened, Garrett? His back is really sore and he can't move that well.
And they think it's his spine.
Hold on.
Just get this off.
It's okay.
Easy, easy.
Hold on.
Don't move your head.
- Same pain? - Same pain, lower back.
Get a blanket for him.
- Katie? - Hi! We've got bad news.
Cotty's alive, but he got hurt.
Is he okay? Was it in the water? Yep.
We just got out.
Really painful and doesn't feel right at all.
On three.
One, two, three.
We're going to the stretcher now.
He'll be fine, he'll come through.
Cotty's strong, he bounces back quick.
Bummer.
Garrett in all his positivity, he's like he's gonna be okay.
He got taken away in an ambulance.
It was really bad.
I think maybe it scared Garrett so he wasn't giving it the energy it deserved as far as how severe it was.
With injuries and like tragic situations, he almost can't handle it.
He doesn't do well with people almost dying.
Perfect.
I didn't even have to surf.
Andrew Cotton's accident on that day I didn't even know it happened.
Because I was outside, waiting for my wave.
I was with my partner Sergio.
We kept looking for the wave.
The first wave, he went over it.
When I saw the second wave, it was great.
And I said: "The second one, Sergio!" And he went over it.
But when I saw the third wave, he looked at me and he said: "Koxa, this a bomb! You wanna go!" He attacked it perfectly.
I released the rope.
I started to pick up a lot of speed.
For a moment, I was going so fast that I almost lost my balance and fell.
And a big shadow from the wave came on.
And I said: "Oh my God, there must be a monster behind me!" I just felt like I wanted to get out of there.
And I saw my partner Sergio.
I told him: "Sergio, you put me on the wave of my life!" I got out of the water and I went to the garage.
And I said: "Garrett!" And I showed him the image on my phone.
And he looked at it and zoomed in.
And he showed everyone around him.
And I felt that he knew it was a really big wave.
And he congratulated me.
Naturally we shared the image with the world.
And the story became: "Koxa threatens Garrett McNamara's record.
" With a wave measured at 80 feet and setting a new Guiness World record, the winner of the 2018 biggest wave award is Rodrigo Koxa.
At that moment, I was the man who rode the biggest wave in the world.
The biggest wave in history.
And there was nobody that I would have liked to have broken the record more than him.
It would have been cooler if it was Cotty.
Until that point I'd never questioned not being able to walk.
Just feeling that I physically couldn't do it was pretty scary.
And then within like 2 weeks I was walking around.
See this guy, walking already.
You'll be surfing in a blink.
It's been horrific going through the rehab, the uncertainty and the stress.
- How does that feel? - It feels good.
Do you feel different? The negatives, all that worry, the am I good enough? And then once that happens, sometimes it's hard to get it back.
Times Square is a place where something can be seen, not just by Americans, but also millions of New York visitors.
So they can learn a little bit more about our country and the amazing wave that is Nazaré.
Tourism in Portugal had this great idea, we're gonna put Nazaré in Times Square.
Here it is.
Koxa's world record wave, 80 foot wave right behind us, in Times Square.
This guy's a visionary.
Garrett has conquered everything.
Standing next to him, I still feel like a teenager.
But this is my time.
Right here, world record holder Koxa.
And Garrett McNamara right here, record holder, world record.
No, he's the record holder.
Now Koxa's the world record holder.
Yeah, Koxa! To go down a giant wave is dancing with God.
You see an image of yourself, and it's very nice, but it doesn't satisfy you.
You have to get on another wave.
We become dependent on that feeling.
We are completely addicted to that adrenaline.
I'm preparing my body so that when I go back to Nazaré, I will be physically, mentally ready.
I surfed 100 foot wave a million times in my mind.
I've trained for hours focusing, manifesting.
This winter is gonna be the big wave.
So I'll be ready.
Big huge breath in, let it out.
Garrett was physically trying to get back in shape.
Grab some water.
My brother CJ had moved to Hawaii.
Stay focused.
Knees on track.
It seemed like Nazaré was going to become a big part of your life.
And then you disappear.
Can you talk a little bit about what transpired, or why that didn't come to be? From 2011 it definitely seemed like Nazaré was like something super special for me.
It was going to be a huge part of my life, because it changed me.
It really did.
In 2011, CJ excelled above and beyond any expectations I may have had.
He was excited to become a professional surfer, a big wave surfer.
And he got injured.
It wasn't a huge day, it was kinda big.
I'm kind of zipping around inside, back and forth in the white wash and looking around and this kind of weird, little Nazaré tidal wave sucked up kind of out of nowhere and I gassed it to get past it, and I went up on the lip and it sent me off over the side of the lip and the ski rolled over.
I got good hit from a jet ski in my rib.
And then returning to beach volleyball season, the way I played was just hard.
Just jumping as high as I can, hitting every ball as hard as I can.
So I ended up blowing out the disk in my low back on the left side, and that's when the sciatic pain came.
I couldn't stand up for more than 10 seconds, I would hit the floor and go into the fetal position.
It was brutal.
I couldn't move.
I was absolutely crippled, floored.
My brother, being my brother, he spent an entire year trying to heal it on his own.
We didn't realize how bad it was until his mother went to visit him, found him laying on the ground.
He was broken.
All of his muscles were atrophied, he was withering away.
Finally he did the back surgery after a year of this already.
When he came out of surgery and he came to, he just started crying.
CJ suffered a severe mental, emotional and physical back injury.
And then healing and then recovery It was a journey.
They say ten to fifteen minutes of laughter give you the benefits that you need.
So we're gonna start off with a really simple breathing exercise.
I'm so different now because of the injury that it's so hard to say what would have happened had the path continued and had I not taken this detour.
All the way, in the belly.
In the ribs! I'd like to think I'd have been amazing.
I'd be this famous big wave surfer, sponsors just throwing money and stuff at me.
But it's all the stuff that now I'm like, what is that even worth? What does it mean? I'd probably still have this guilt and self-worth issues and I'd have all of this external attention from big waves and I'd still be like, whatever, I'm shit.
So I definitely wouldn't trade it in for anything.
It's the biggest blessing of my life.
But now I have really kind of taken a step back, and I'm planning on going back to Nazaré with Garrett.
The traditional big wave season of Nazaré is October through end of February.
Garrett was in recovery mode from his shoulder and so I was like, okay, let's do this comeback.
Let's get you guys both out there.
We both experienced injuries, but haven't really broken through on them in order to be able to go out and surf these waves.
When it's time to go to Nazaré and go ride this giant wave, I'll be ready.
We were in Bali for a month.
The plan was yoga training and to really get ready and feel mentally and physically prepared to go back out to Nazaré.
It's not just your regular yoga that you think of with postures and that's it.
It's about how we hold trauma in our bodies and that's what creates pain.
It's also about healing injuries.
I'd been doing like 6 months of quite intense physio and rehab, but all of it's been gym based.
The idea was to come up here and just do a bit of yoga, a bit of moving.
The first movement you need to learn is to massage the earth.
Come down.
And you've got to put a little bit of dancer in it.
At first when we had to get up and dance and stuff I was like, no.
I kinda got into it.
It was quite good to break the ice, and let your inhibitions go, and fully throw yourself into the experience.
People come to us for a lot of different reasons, including reasons that they didn't know.
They come for healing.
Sometimes it's the back injury and sometimes it's a deeper yearning.
And a deeper hidden impulse.
Hear all that? All the ligaments and tendons popping in the middle.
My body will be as ready as it can be.
The challenge is getting confidence underwater.
I want to surf, but I don't know if I want to surf.
I don't even know how I'm gonna feel when we go back there.
I was trying to paddle in some little waves, but it was really terrible.
Sometimes, the little days are harder.
I don't know if I'm going to even be interested in riding some big waves.
You will.
As soon as you get two under your belt.
As soon as I get my lungs.
You'll get a few waves, it will be clean and nice.
- Back to normal, freaking out? - Yeah.
He's starting to turn on the muscles that were just flaccid.
He's not such a stress ball around his injury.
It's changing beautifully.
Physically, they will be able to do it, but confidence is a big thing.
The mental preparation.
We have been working on how to disobey the dictates of fear.
Because when you're doing anything and your fear takes over, you're screwed.
You can't be in the throes of fear and responding at that profound athletic level that he needs to be.
If you know you can trust yourself, then you can trust yourself to do great things.
I do not worry for them at all.
I think that they are ready.
Get in your body.
I suggested the yoga trip to Bali.
But to get Garrett to go to Bali for a month with his kids There had to have been some carrot at the end of the trip.
The carrot was G-Land.
It had been about at least 15 years since I'd been to G-Land and we were just there to have fun.
The goal was to get barrels in Indonesia and we got to go to G-Land.
Since I was a little kid, I was like: "Oh, G-Land" I first heard about it when I saw "The Endless Summer II".
It's just this remote location that has this wave that's just perfect, and you can get the best wave of your life, if it's right.
As I got ready to paddle out, I looked at my helmet in my bag and I decided not to wear it.
I should have put it on.
He hits the reef and he gets a gash in his head and amnesia.
He doesn't know where his camp is, nor where his wife is.
So do you know what the fuck happened, Garrett? I remember the wave and I remember being in the barrel.
I was coming out and something went wrong.
And then all of a sudden I hit and I was almost knocking out, almost knocked out.
I was like fading, fading.
I feel definitely out of it.
I'm having a hard time remembering still.
I shouldn't still not be remembering things, right? No, no, that's normal.
- It takes a while? - Yeah, like 24 hours.
You'll ask the same and same again, but it will get better.
If I hit any harder, I would have knocked out, I probably wouldn't be here.
I was floating, but good luck somebody finding you.
My children, my wife, my life flashed before my eyes and I thought to myself, is this even worth it? These little waves I could have just died.
I'm just thinking about my family and stuff.
Garrett, this is gonna sting for a sec.
Just one sec.
Are you alright? It's gonna burn.
I like it.
How about glue? You got any glue? No, dude, glue won't cut it for this one.
I got worried, I finally caught another wave and asked someone what happened and they said he had blood on his head, didn't know where he was going.
I didn't know where I was staying.
Up until about a couple of minutes ago, I couldn't remember where Nicole went.
The brain's really vulnerable at the moment, and if you hit It again, you can get permanent brain damage.
And you don't want that.
- You good? - Yeah, I'm good.
- Tomorrow's gonna be really good.
- Yeah.
When Garrett is talking about going out surfing again when he's still got a bandage around his head and he's had a concussion, I'm like, the doctor said you shouldn't surf for at least two weeks.
He just wanted to go out.
There was no convincing him otherwise.
"It's fine, I'll put the helmet on, it will be fine.
" I'm like, okay The universe said you didn't listen to my first sign of amnesia, so now I'm gonna have to do something different.
Four days later we landed in Portugal and we went straight to hospital.
How did this happen? Surfing.
The board went Let's have a look at the exams.
You injured the base of the third metatarsal.
- So it's dislocated.
- Dislocated? Yes.
There is no bone here because it's dislocated.
You have to put it back in its place.
What I'm going to do is to put a plate over the second and the third tarsal joints.
If they're not steady enough, the foot in time will start to collapse, will start to deform, and you'll not be able to walk.
This is the kind of lesion that we have to do surgery.
Okay.
If we did nothing, you will not be able to walk as you used to and I doubt you'd be able to go on a board and surf again as you're used to.
This is the kind of injury you have to fix.
How long does it take, the whole process if everything went really smooth? For you to be on a board? Not before 4 months.
The doctor so gently explained to us that it was pretty much fractured in like 8 places, needed a plate and all these screws and Okay.
It was like playing back to me, like the shoulder and the months of depression and I was like I cannot do it again.
It really freaking sucks, I have PTSD from the word surgery.
When you bumped your head you probably should have listened! It sucks! And now we're in the same position.
We don't even have your shoulder 100% and now we're going to have to be rehabbing a shoulder and a foot? It really sucks.
Thank you for coming.
When I got the wipeout, my family flashed before my eyes and them losing me.
There's always the potential of getting injured lurking in the back of my mind since the shoulder surgery that makes me think twice about everything.
You guys and your waves They're so fun.
And connected to nature.
Everything else is left behind.
So beautiful.
I feel good, I'm in good hands.
To be honest, when I got hurt I was almost relieved.
I feel like I need a little more time.
When my body is 100% and a big wave will come and if I feel like riding it, I will.
Ace, mate, you've got to get up.
I've got to go today, mate.
So you gonna be good for me this morning? Today the flight leaves at 1:00 from Bristol.
I'm flying to Nazaré.
I've got sort of physical training to begin with and hopefully some waves.
And then the big wave season kicks off.
What's a quart graph? - A quart graph? - No idea.
I can't do anything.
Why do you even need to know that though? Ace, he likes it when I'm injured because I'm home more.
You miss 'em, you know? You do think what's it all about? Is it really worth putting everything on the line? I'll see you in a couple of weeks.
That will be good.
I don't fear death, you know? I don't fear dying.
I get more fear for like not being able to surf again.
I fear that.
He shouldn't had been able to surf that season.
But Garrett had his mind set at getting back as soon as possible.
I think because he knew I was so mad he broke his foot that he's like I'd better get it better fast.
- How are you? - Good.
That's the least excited I've ever heard you say it.
I'm good, but I got 6 weeks of off the foot and 6 weeks of rehab.
And that's the best case scenario.
I think Garrett definitely feels pressure to get out there.
I'm sure some people really look forward to seeing him surf and the Portuguese people definitely love seeing him getting out there.
Broken.
- Get better.
- Thank you.
When we first came here nobody knew who Garrett was because this was not a surfing town, it was not a surfing country.
But now he's like the George Clooney of Portugal.
It's amazing how much just seeing him lights the Portuguese people up.
I don't think anyone can question that Garrett is loved by the Portuguese people.
We can say there was a Nazaré before Garrett and after Garrett.
It was McNamara.
He gave a lot to the sea of Nazaré.
He put Nazaré on the map.
He showed that we are a surfing country.
We can now attract the best athletes in the world to do things that, for a common mortal, are completely impossible.
Looking good! The old ladies love him.
He conquered the heart of the people of Nazaré.
How you doing? Been a while huh? I've never been a fan of soap operas, but this one called "Nazaré", I watch it.
They were able to weave Garrett into a specific episode.
I have a bunch of friends coming over, so I would love to get some fish.
Whatever you guys recommend.
The king of Nazaré! Let's have a look at your X-ray.
So everything seems to be okay.
He's moving his foot a lot, no need to move more.
We have to go slowly, but surely.
It seems to be healed.
I'm glad I got the surgery, because it feels great.
The last one.
Oh my goodness! Good job.
After the surgery there was no pain, it was a miracle.
I told Nicole I am not going to do anything, I'm just going to stay here and focus on healing my foot.
And then I said to myself, man, I've got all of this time, I might as well utilize it.
And I've never been to Africa.
So Garrett and CJ went to Angola for a beach cleanup.
And then they went to South Africa to work with Waves For Change, who provide surf therapy and mentorship to underprivileged youth there.
So is everybody ready to get in the water? - Yes! - Let's go surfing! And then we went to New York because Garrett had a meeting to build a survival suit.
We're in New York and my buddy, Kyle, is helping me put together a suit that I've been dreaming about making for the last 15 years.
There's no real solid suit for waves over 80 feet.
The survival suits in 2011 that we used, most of them were like Garrett's kind of creation.
And it's just taking like flotation from life vests and just like stuffing it into the wet suit in spots that you need it.
Now the evolution is having a bladder that inflates when we pull a cord.
Crazy, isn't it? So Garrett's trying to design a suit that's as comfortable as possible so that you can be fully free and mobile, but also really solid and safe.
Once in a while in Nazaré you come up and then there's this monster and you have to try and swim through it.
You deflate real quick while you're waiting.
And get through.
And then you can have another one breaking I think building this ultimate survival suit is going to give Garrett the confidence he needs to do this for as long as he wants, into his old age and it's just gonna like keep him together like armor.
Holy shit! When I got on the plane to Nazaré, my foot was feeling great.
By the time we got off it was swollen and sore and I thought maybe I reinjured it somehow from sitting with my foot down for too long.
Traveling is like the last thing you want to do with a broken foot.
He was feeling frustration from what I could see of having to do all these things and wanting to really take care of his foot.
And then there was waves of being grumpy.
You're pinned on the couch, you can't go anywhere.
You start snapping at people.
I've never been so unprepared to ride a big wave ever in my life.
I got to Africa, ran around, and I went to New York, and ran around.
And it's only my own self sabotage that I did by choice.
And I could have said, sorry, no, I'm staying home.
I need to focus on my foot.
And I thought it was a good idea because I couldn't surf, so I might as well do other things.
But to get back in the water you got to focus on getting back in the water, not doing other things.
Check out the storm CJ.
It's as big as we've seen.
60-80 feet on Wednesday.
Magic.
Straight down the pike.
Huge, huh? Look at the center of it.
The wave that I've been dreaming about for years is actually on the maps and potentially coming in and I'm 100% not ready physically.
I could ride it and if I make it I'll be fine.
But if I don't, there's a potential of not coming home.
Garrett doesn't have to stay 20 hours in the water now.
He has kids, he has family.
He has to make all the stuff there and he have to come down a little bit.
Does he have to surf another wave? No.
Cristiano Ronaldo have to win Europe's championship of football again? No.
And he's the best of the world.
I think Garrett have to stay around and have fun and take control of his life and growing up with the kids and that's it.
I think it's the most difficult decision to look in the mirror and say, it's time to stop.
I think a surf guy never feel that.
I do not know when big wave surfers finally say they've had enough.
I haven't seen it yet.
There's a point in surfing when it might end up becoming selfish when you're not putting your family first.
And I think Garrett's been fighting the demons.
I think there's gonna be a time when Garrett has to hang it up, call it a day, call it a career and be there for his family and kids and things and not risk his life for the 100 foot wave.
Because it may never happen.
I think it's personal when you decide when the end is.
When you lose the emotional capacity to be able to go do it, then I think the physical leaves.
For some people that never ends.
Maybe some people they just don't ever not want that feeling.
I don't think you call it a day on surfing, I think maybe you call it a day in like chasing it and like risking it all.
But you don't call it a day on surfing.
Portuguese authorities have now issued a red weather warning.
They say coastal areas are likely to get a battering from the incoming weather front.
Strengthening storm is expected to bring downpours and strong winds.
Of course apart from wind and rain, this storm could also generate significant surf conditions.
Luigi texts back.
I really want to see this X-ray.
He said good.
Yes! Time to rock and roll, now it's time to get serious.
Time to train hard! Time to get CJ in the water, time to get in the water.
Real soon I'll be driving a jet ski and maybe surfing.