Next in Fashion (2020) s01e04 Episode Script

Streetwear

Welcome back to Next in Fashion.
The show that's all about finding
the next big name designer.
- Yes. This challenge is all about--
- [horn honks]
I don't think they heard you.
- No.
- Go for it.
- This challenge is all about--
- [honking]
I'll go. Okay.
Next challenge is all about--
[horn honks]
- Leave it.
- You gonna tell them?
- Yeah.
- Yeah.
[Tan] Come on. Come on.
- [Kiki sighs]
- [Claire] Hi.
[laughing]
I want to know what the challenge is.
[Charles] What if it's dance wear?
I love to dance.
- [Alexa] Morning!
- [Tan] Morning, everyone.
- Morning.
- Come gather 'round. Gather 'round.
You know the drill by now.
- [Alexa] Oh, yes!
- Oh, my gosh!
Charles, those shorts are getting shorter
and shorter.
[Charles] I know. I'm kinda bad.
By the time we get to the end of this,
it's gonna be like this tiny little thong.
- Exactly.
- [laughing]
Are you ready for your next challenge?
[designers] Yes.
- [Alexa] Yeah?
- Yes.
I'm gonna ask again, like at a concert.
Are you ready for your next challenge?
[all shouting] Yes!
Very American.
- [laughing]
- Yeah.
In this challenge, we will be working
with one of the most popular styles
around the world.
The next two days, you'll be working
with a fashion art form
that you'll see around you
every single day.
It's walking on every street corner,
posted on every billboard
and filling up your Instagram feeds.
We are, of course, talking about
streetwear.
- [Alexa] There you go.
- Whoo-whoo!
- Yes!
- Yes!
[laughs] Cha-ching.
Kiki, you're kind of the grand dame
of streetwear.
- Mm-hmm.
- Yeah. I started at 19 designing for FUBU.
It was, like, pioneering that movement.
[Tan] Yes! Yes!
I'm pretty proud to say
that I birthed women's urban.
I was the creative director
at FUBU Ladies.
I was at the forefront of this whole era.
I walked into Macy's one day,
and it was all brands that I had designed.
Everybody in the industry knows Kiki.
Kiki is the OG.
Ashton, how are you able to incorporate
streetwear into your brand?
A good portion of my brand is
- an avant-garde streetwear.
- Mm-hmm.
- He dressed Post Malone yesterday.
- [Ashton] Post Malone yesterday.
- [Tan] Ooh! All right!
- Yesterday?
I love this challenge,
but I do feel a sense of pressure
because this is something that I do.
Tomorrow is your next runway show
where Alexa and I will be your judges,
yet again with stylist extraordinaire
Jason Bolden.
- Yes!
- [laughing]
And we'll also be joined
by a very special guest judge.
Coming to the runway tomorrow
is a Brooklyn-born designer
who's breathing fresh life
into American fashion.
Kerby Jean-Raymond.
Oh!
- Yeah, he's sick.
- [Alexa] Yeah, that's right.
He's the founder of the acclaimed line
Pyer Moss.
He's, like, amazing.
[Kiki]
He definitely understands streetwear.
- So, I feel like he should totally get us.
- [Farai] Oh, definitely.
For this challenge,
you will remain in your teams,
and each pair will need
to present two looks.
One female and one male model.
And aside from every fabric under the sun,
in that closet,
we have added even more fun tools
for your streetwear challenge.
Take a look!
- [gasping]
- [cheering]
[Tan] In there,
you will find spray paints, fabrics,
embellishments, rope,
everything you could possibly need
to spread your creative wings.
- Yes.
- Are you guys ready?
- Yes!
- Yeah.
Your streetwear challenge begins
[both] Now!
[Alexa] Good luck, everyone.
[whooping]
Streetwear can mean different things
to different people.
- Right?
- Yeah.
Like,
my streetwear styles are always like,
push some sort of message.
- Yeah. Okay.
- Know what I mean?
I'm not really ever sure
on what streetwear
We're not super excited about the idea
of doing streetwear.
It's really the opposite
of what my true aesthetic is,
and I feel like it's been around
a little bit too long
so I'm like, "Whatever. Who cares?"
[laughing]
Okay, so, Tan, of all the challenges
we've done so far,
this is the one that's really
about self-expression.
- We are city girls. Let's do Brooklyn.
- Okay, dope.
- They can all let their freak flags fly.
- Mm-hmm.
She took her huge,
muscular boyfriend's sweater,
tied it up like a corset.
Yes! That's a story line.
Streetwear is real garments
based on real world situations
with an edge.
It's my favorite one so far.
- Well, you really like streetwear.
- I love streetwear.
The references are based on the culture,
it's based on your country,
your age group.
It's gravitating towards
more unique things
that make you really stand out
from the crowd.
I'm thinking about this fabric.
- [Minju] I know you love this.
- Yeah.
Neon is kind of the symbol of,
somehow, the streetwear.
I come from Shenzhen, China.
My family background
is actually doing wall paint.
My dad was in the lab discovering color.
He's a color engineer.
And when I was growing up,
I always went to his factory
and check the color.
I'm basically born in color.
Color is kind of like my DNA.
- Don't! Don't, please! No!
- Come on!
Streetwear is about really bold color,
which is really good for me.
[laughs] I think it's like, we are destiny
with this fabric suddenly.
- [Angel] Destiny?
- Yeah.
Streetwear for me, you know,
is something that's from my heart.
I gravitate towards it so immediately.
The Ashton Michael brand is really known
for avant-garde streetwear.
It's monochromatic, it's strong.
It's stage. It's street. It's wearable,
and it's not overstyled.
Let's just tier it out and keep it clean.
So this can come down here
and it could just be
- another layer.
- [Marco] Exactly.
- Yeah.
- That's beautiful.
[Marco]
Our plan is to create multi-layer outfits.
So for the male model,
we're making a bomber jacket, turtleneck
and a pair of cargo shorts.
And for the female model,
a floor-length tank dress,
sheer mesh turtleneck
and a cropped bomber.
How do you feel about the colors?
Not something that's too in your face.
[Marco] I mean, those nudes
are gonna be beautiful.
It's high-end, singular,
and it feels like us.
- I mean, I like this color.
- [Ashton] I love that.
- Nudes and cream is so nice.
- [Marco] Yeah, yeah, yeah.
But I definitely feel like doing,
like a cool over-sized jumpsuit.
That's like my main
Um
No?
I'm not here to be a dream crusher.
You are crushing some dreams.
I don't want-- But that's--
You can't get emotionally attached
to anything. You have to do what works.
But that's my Brooklyn.
But what's the-- No.
I'm just saying I know what works
in the category.
I have different techniques
that I think could be great focal points.
- That's what I want to do.
- Okay.
Basically, it's just like
a quarter zip track jacket,
but the detail is these big sleeves
that are created with, like, the litter.
That's like the waste that we encounter.
This is probably more
along what Claire does.
I can tell you're excited
about this for sure.
I think I've got some ideas
of where we could go.
This could be, like, the plastic bags
stuck to the sleeves.
- [Adolfo] A trash bag.
- A trash dress, babes.
I grew up in London.
And then I moved to the countryside
when I was around ten.
In my school,
there was three black girls.
I felt like a total alien.
And rebellion is where we kind of found
our peace.
Music, finding my people,
I did that through the subculture.
And when it comes to, like, fashion
it was the same.
With every single garment,
I want to question
- the wider, cultural, like, landscape.
- Yeah.
[Claire] And this one will have a really
specific message of sustainability.
Like, stop using plastic,
or if you do, recycle it, please.
Minju, I think
Do you want to do Haenyeo?
Haenyeo is sea diver from Jeju Island
in Korea.
What they are wearing
when they do the sea diving
is kind of like neoprene pieces,
and also this really
thin material windbreaker.
- Like plastic raincoat.
- Ah, yeah.
It just reminds me immediately
of that fabric.
It's definitely really fresh
and contemporary.
You have seen something
like windbreaker and poncho
like that before,
but you've never seen the way
we're putting it together.
- [Minju] We can make something fun.
- [Angel] Yes.
[Minju] We are the best team.
We love each other.
We really trust each other.
I think that's the most important.
Yeah!
[Charles] Angelo, later, after you're done
tracing that, make me a giant hoodie.
The same way you made it last time,
but better.
Okay.
[Carli] So, something like this.
- This is kind of like a letterman jacket.
- [Daniel] Yeah, that will be really nice.
And I think I would love
to see a pair of, like sick,
white leather trousers on your girl.
I mean, it could be really sick.
I'm getting excited now.
We want to take sporting design classics
and make them feel modern.
So for the man we're doing,
a leather flight jacket,
pants inspired by a motocross trouser.
And then for the woman, a biker-style pant
with varsity-style jacket.
It's not gonna be too simple, right?
No, we're doing a lot here.
We're doing a lot.
- So this has a denim feel.
- That would be fun.
I was thinking this could be, like,
an over-sized hoodie or something.
Um
This velour is too much.
You think so?
We don't have a lot of time,
and I know I have a little more
streetwear experience.
I feel like I need to take control.
How about this?
We make a men's overall look, like that.
You're thinking like an over-sized shirt
for under his
Like a funky hooded, bright color?
No. It doesn't have color.
You know what I mean?
If it's this, it lets the denim live.
Okay, Kiki has decided our direction.
For our men's look,
we're making an over-sized denim overall,
drop crotch,
coupled with a undershirt
which has a hood,
and it's made out of this draped hood,
which is made out
of a textured eggplant fabric.
The women's look is off-the-shoulder top,
bubble short
and then thigh-high boots
that are made out of denim.
[Kiki] Also, we can do some kind
of scrunch manipulation
of the fabric with a separate piece.
And then, maybe I'll finish everything
with raw edge.
I'm wondering if it should be
clean finish
- and not raw.
- No.
[Farai] But you want it to look
constructed properly.
- Streetwear would have it raw edge.
- Okay.
[Charles] I'll work on the T-shirt after.
I just want to get that part done first
and then we can prioritize
everything else.
Let me see the size. Yes.
[Angel]
It's going to be a parachute dress.
[Minju] I like it.
Okay, so pants are done.
[Carli]
Should I add a bit more volume in 'em?
No, I think they were nice as they were.
No, I think I should add a bit more.
Carli, we don't have time.
[Kiki] No. No straight line.
No straight line.
- [Farai] Okay.
- No straight line.
What do you think about these colors?
That's beautiful.
- Charles. Angelo. Hi, guys!
- Hi, guys!
[Alexa]
Can you tell us what you're making?
[Charles] Okay, we're creating two looks
in four pieces.
For our female model,
we are making a corset belt.
And for our male model,
we are making a T-shirt,
and there's a pair of trousers.
We're deciding to go really monotone
with the colors
- and really crisp and clean.
- [Alexa] Yeah.
But we want that edge,
so it's kind of like the girl,
- she just left her boyfriend's house.
- Oh, I love a story.
Her boyfriend's like a bodybuilder
and he's huge,
but she has nothing to wear,
so she, like, took his giant hoodie,
like, cut it up, like, belted it
and left his apartment,
but the guy she's with
is not her boyfriend.
She's seeing another guy.
She's seeing another guy as well?
[laughs] Oh, I love a sordid tale.
Charles is ready to become
our love story director.
- [laughing]
- Yeah. I am the woman.
[Tan] Claire and Adolfo.
- Hello.
- Hi.
[Alexa] Talk us through your inspiration.
So basically what we've designed here
is more conceptual than our last stuff.
For the female, we've got this dress
that has ripstop overlay.
And for the male, a reflective jacket
and we've got cording throughout.
- [Alexa] This is your?
- [Adolfo] Ripstop.
- [Tan] Ripstop?
- This is beautiful.
And, Adolfo,
how involved were you with that concept?
Well, the concept really was created
by Claire right away.
But Claire and I really are similar
'cause we're rebelling against society,
rebelling against, like,
"I have to fit in this mold
when you're gay,
you have to fit in this mold
when you're this or that or whatever."
And so I've always hated molds.
I'm first generation Mexican-American.
My family,
they're very conservative Catholic
and growing up,
I just knew that I was different.
I've actually been very comfortable with
my sexuality since I was really young.
I love that being gay is a part of me.
But growing up, you just don't say, like,
"I want to be a dressmaker, Dad.
And so, I would sew under the covers,
my costumes in the middle of the night.
Clothing was really a way that I felt
like I could express myself.
Even if they don't understand
what it is that I'm doing,
my family's been very supportive
ever since.
Do they know? Are you out to your family?
I mean, I've never really had
the conversation with my dad.
And so this will be, probably,
the first time he actually
hears me out loud say that I'm gay.
The first few months are rough,
but you have to allow them time
and then let them see just how incredible
you are.
- [Alexa] All right. Best of luck.
- [Tan] Good luck both of you.
- [Alexa] Bye.
- [Tan] Good luck.
- [Carli] You've done your patterns?
- Yeah.
You're putting leather down the sides?
[Daniel]
Two panels, like, inserted into the leg.
So, I'm gonna open this
- and insert the pocket.
- [Ashton] Yes.
[Marco] They're kind of taking
a long time, but they look nice.
No, but it'll look clean.
- We are just going to murder it.
- Yeah.
- Perfect.
- [Ashton] We're gonna win.
From the beginning,
my family has embedded in me
the value of proving to the world
what your abilities are
and how to get even bigger
and stronger at it.
From sports with my dad
to arts and crafts
and more queer-side stuff with my mother,
I had the most beautiful upbringing,
and it's made me confident.
[Marco] Cool. It looks great.
[Kiki]
I feel like I should put it on, so
- I-- I can't see.
- [laughing]
I'm trying to get all the basic
construction of everything done
so that tomorrow,
we just have to do detailing.
The drawstring color,
maybe this orange or this orange?
Okay. Okay.
Okay.
Two hours left and I feel nervous.
[Charles] Keep your pace up, okay?
We need to work fast.
[Farai] Kiki, I'm playing around
with the fabric manipulation.
[Kiki] A little less but a--
Like less curve and more scrunch
to open up the pattern.
- I'm gonna tell you how I would do it.
- Oh, my gosh.
All right. I'm getting frustrated, Kiki.
[Kiki] Don't get frustrated.
[Farai] Yeah, but it's like
I actually like what it's doing.
I'm reaching a point of like,
I'm gonna flip out on Kiki.
I'm concerned about it looking
too much like a flower. That's all.
All right, so I'm gonna let you do it.
- 'Cause I'm not doing it the way you want.
- Cool.
I know she knows streetwear
and where it comes from,
but my voice isn't getting heard
and that's really making me sad.
So what else?
- [Tan] Farai. Kiki.
- [Alexa] Are you making jeans?
We're doing a denim,
drop-crotch overall.
- Nice!
- Yeah. For the man.
And then for the lady?
Because she's doing a drop-crotch overall
for the man,
- Yeah.
- I'm gonna make her drop-crotch shorts.
Okay. Kiki.
You are the streetwear queen
from back in the day.
I wanna know if you feel the pressure now.
It's a lot of pressure 'cause I know
eyes are on me.
- Do you think you're gonna crush this?
- Yes.
[gasps] I love confidence. All right.
- [laughs] Bye.
- [Farai] Toodles.
- [Tan] Hi, Dragon Princess.
- [laughs] Hi.
[Tan]
It's the old Tea Queens. We're here.
- Describe what you're doing.
- [Alexa] What is it? Yeah.
So what we are making is a two-piece.
The inside will be quite tight using
- this kind of neoprene material,
- [Tan] Great.
and then the outerwear we are making
is actually more like a parachute
huge dress.
Can I ask you,
do you have experience with that fabric?
Nylon fabric? Actually,
we never had a chance to touch it.
[laughing]
[Alexa] It's hardcore to make
in a short space of time.
Oh, my God. We thought it's easy.
[Tan] Alexa,
let's stop disturbing them. Come on.
- [Alexa] Keep working.
- We'll do our best.
[Adolfo] Okay, so this is done.
We're working on the corset belt,
which I thought we wouldn't finish,
but we actually just finished the T-shirt.
Now we have almost a full look
for the male done.
And now we just need the belt
for the woman and then finishing touches.
I feel like I want this
blue too. I mean
This. So it's the same.
You know what I'm saying.
No, but you got it. You got it.
There's only one hour to go, everyone,
till the end of day one.
One hour to go!
Angel, I cannot pin on this fabric.
Oh, my God.
I thought I can do it much faster,
but this fabric really difficult to sew.
[Angel] Like really difficult to stitch.
It's crazy.
This stupid fabric.
The color is stunning. But the thing is,
there is, like, a really sticky film
underneath the fabric.
So when I, like, sew it, it doesn't go.
I have never expected this fabric
would be that difficult.
Carli and Daniel.
You look really hectic.
What else do we have to do?
Sew this entire leather jacket.
Leather isn't easy to sew.
- No, it's really not.
- No.
We've also decided to do paneled leather
to make it really easy.
This is what we do.
Daniel, you do look slightly
like you're in a tornado.
Your usually meticulously coiffed hair
has, like, gone backwards a bit.
- [Daniel] Yeah.
- There's a button missing.
- Like, are we okay?
- I don't know what's going on right now.
I'm gonna leave you to it.
You look like you really have
a lot, a lot to do.
- Hoping for good things.
- Thanks, Alexa.
Let's see you work it out ♪
You have 30 minutes left.
- [gasps] Oh, my God!
- Hurry up!
- [gasps] That looks so good.
- It's better.
- Tan, they've still got a long way to go.
- Yeah.
We know as well by this point,
I mean, anything could happen.
- Want to stick it under?
- Yeah, we can do that.
- Farai and Kiki.
- Uh-huh.
The position that they're in now,
I do think isn't where it needs to be.
But Kiki has so much experience
in this space.
I think that she'll create something
that the others
- won't have thought of.
- Yeah.
We're liking this raw edge?
- Uh Yeah.
- Yeah? Okay.
- Angel and Minju.
- Yes.
Very impactful colors already.
[sighs]
- I love how technical those fabrics are.
- Yeah.
[Alexa] It'll be interesting to see
if the form they have in their head
is actually, construction-wise,
- gonna be a possibility.
- Yeah.
- Ew. Yes! This looks like waste bags.
- Claire and Adolfo.
That piece just needs to get attached
to this piece.
I love that it's about sustainability
and that they're incorporating plastic.
However, I don't know if the fabric
are gonna seam luxe enough.
[Alexa] Hmm.
There's still a lot to be done.
The main thing is running the cording
throughout the two long jackets.
Then it's gonna look really nice.
But if we don't, probably what we're gonna
turn out is gonna be rubbish.
Literally.
Five minutes left, everyone! Five minutes.
Get that hood poppin'!
- Oh, my God.
- [bleeps]hell, Daniel.
- I'm really panicked now.
- I know.
We're the end of the day, and we have not
even cut out most of the things.
We are frantically cutting
every single thing out.
I need this.
- [Minju] Pardon!
- [Marco] I love it.
Okay, everyone tools down, please.
Good boy, Angelo.
You'll also have a bit more time
in the morning to finish your looks,
but for now [snaps fingers] that's it.
[Tan] Yep. Go home.
Get some sleep, eat some food
and try not to dream about any of this.
That's all. Good night.
- [Alexa] Good night.
- [Kiki] Good night.
[Tan] Okay, streetwear.
When it comes to styling
a streetwear look,
keep it balanced
and don't be afraid to experiment.
If you're gonna go over-sized on top,
be sure to go tighter at the bottom
to make the look more flattering.
Or the opposite. Baggy on the bottom,
tighter on the top.
And don't be afraid of a pop of color
or a garish logo.
Lastly, if you really want to stand out
Try no bottoms at all.
Seriously. People are wearing this look
all over the world right now.
I see you, Ariana.
Try expressing yourself.
That's what streetwear's all about.
If you love it, try it.
With confidence,
you can make anything work.
[techno music playing]
- [clears throat]
- Oh, my, my, my!
- Morning!
- Ms. Chung.
Who we serving today?
- It's the '90s Versace situation.
- Yeah, it is.
I feel like I'm Cher in Clueless.
"Whatever."
- Very good.
- Are we excited to go?
- Yeah, very excited.
- Should we welcome the designers?
Yeah.
- [Alexa] Hi, guys! Oh, they're close.
- Morning!
- Hello.
- Come on. Gather 'round, gather 'round.
Welcome back to another
Next in Fashion runway day.
You excited, you guys?
[all] Yes!
You have five hours left. Your clothes
have been brought backstage
so you can do your model fittings.
Wish you the best of luck.
Let's get to it.
- Thank you.
- [Tan] Time is of the essence!
[Farai] Do it!
I'm doing the hem, doing the neckline,
uh, finishing here.
So I kind of need to give some body
to this jacket, so I'm gonna do a facing
and maybe a lining for it
and sew the collar on.
- Funnily enough, I need to make a top.
- Make the entire top.
- I'm going to finish all the edge--
- The hemline.
- The hem. And then also
- Mm-hmm.
I'm gonna do the draping over here
and do the drawstring.
I think that in day one,
the fabric was really difficult.
[exclaims]
There's still lots of things to do
for the day two.
[in singsong]
You're gonna make it. Trust yourself.
You're gonna make it.
[Minju] Angel has to finish her dress.
But the pants,
I haven't started the pattern even,
so I have to really hurry. Oh!
So I want to push 100%.
I want to do the best, you know?
[Ashton] Are you hemming everything?
I'm just doing--
Yeah, but I can jump off whenever.
Right now, I am doing the last facing
for my little jacket.
The pressure's on.
There's only six teams left,
and I hope I can show out
to earn my place.
I still have to figure out this waistband.
Cut away all the excess fabric.
Of course, we have to figure out how
we're gonna do something fun with this.
It was our second time being
in the bottom in the last challenge,
which was really hard on us.
So, we want to make sure everything looks
on point.
I literally did not sleep last night
'cause I kept thinking,
"I'm gonna flip out on Kiki
and then be in the bottom two."
Today, I'm feeling so much better.
If we trust ourselves,
I think we're gonna do really great.
- Let's do this, Kiki.
- Yeah.
[man] Designers, four hours
to the runway show, please. Thank you.
[man] Models, models. Hold, hold, hold!
[Adolfo] Oh, the models are coming.
Hello!
How are you, my love?
- Hey.
- Hi. Marco.
- Hello.
- Hi.
All right, guys. Let's get to it.
[Charles] Yeah, let's try this on.
You can keep your bra on for this,
for now, I think.
- Just the fitting.
- I don't have a bra. [laughing]
Oh! You're my favorite kind of person.
[Marco] What about the length?
[Ashton] Yeah, the shorts
are a little long, which I knew,
but I wanted to see it on him first.
[Adolfo] Once we put the outfit
on the models,
we could see it coming to life.
So, looks like I'm gonna have to take in
the width of the pants a bit
and the length for sure.
I'm just figuring out the length
before she goes to hair.
[Adolfo] Claire and I have not won
one of the challenges yet.
It'd be nice to win this challenge.
We'll see, right? In a few hours?
Right now, I'm working on the hoodie dress
for the woman.
It's practically done.
I'm feeling confident 'cause I love
my look, but I don't know if it's just me.
[man] Designers, three hours
to the runway show, please. Thank you.
Let's go to the mirror real quick.
Yes. This looks dope on you.
I love anything with layers.
[Ashton] Me too. Hides my gut.
Freaking frick.
I'm creating art
through fabric manipulation.
When you're doing this, you kinda
making it up as you go along.
The biggest thing I'm gonna have to do
before the runway is create
this really dope over-the-knee boot.
I'm just making these super long
until I see her in 'em,
and see what happens.
You have some long legs, honey.
I didn't want a tight boot anyway.
I wanted it very--
- [model] Loosened.
- Yeah.
[Kiki] I'm kind of feeling it.
One hour left!
No!
[man] One hour to the runway show, please.
Thank you.
[Ashton] Marco. Look.
- I love it. [laughs]
- [Ashton] I love it.
Perfect. All right, let's go.
What are you up to, Angelo?
I'm okay. I'm I'm a little nervous.
I'm stitching, but my hands are shaking.
[laughs] It's not easy.
So I'm just gonna put the cuffs
on the trousers,
- and then I'll do the next thing.
- Waistband or the other thing?
- The other thing.
- Okay.
[Ashton] Oh, the secrets!
We're adding a parachute attachment
to our leather jacket.
It's quite insane to try
and do this in this time,
but I finished my jacket,
I finished my trousers,
so I'll give myself an extra challenge.
I think we can just about get it done
before the runway.
Where's the back? Where's the front?
Ah, this is the front.
It's like a stocking.
The most important is to do the scarf.
I really love it.
I want to get it on him
- just to see how it's falling.
- [Kiki] Yeah.
[man] Five minutes to runway. Thank you.
[man 2] You have five minutes. Everything
has to be on your model in five minutes.
- Gosh, you freakin' look good in this.
- [laughs]
- [cheering]
- [Alexa clears throat]
Hi, everyone! Hello! Hello!
Hi and welcome to Next in Fashion
[man] Three minutes to the runway, please.
Three minutes.
The theme of this runway show
is streetwear.
- You are gonna be, "Wow! Wow! Wow!"
- [audience laughing]
[man] Two-minute warning, everyone.
[Adolfo] I'm gonna try this on.
[Claire] Can we not put the smaller hoop
on instead of the big, flat one?
Tan and I will be critiquing
the looks tonight, but not alone.
No, no. Back again is an integral member
of the Next in Fashion family,
stylist to the Hollywood elite,
please welcome Jason Bolden.
- [Tan] Yes! Take a bow! Take a bow!
- [Alexa] Yeah!
We also have a very, very special guest
joining us tonight.
- You don't like a curve?
- No, you did this here also,
and you just left it as a straight
just now.
[man] Sixty seconds, 60 seconds
to the runway show. Thank you.
- [Daniel] Are you okay, Carli?
- I'm fine.
Coming to the runway is a true artist.
His coveted red carpet designs
have been worn by the likes of
Janet Jackson, Issa Rae
and even Michelle Obama.
Please welcome the founder of Pyer Moss,
Kerby Jean-Raymond.
[audience applauding and cheering]
- Hello, hello!
- [Tan] Hi.
- How are you?
- [Tan] Hi. Good.
- [Kerby] Good.
- [Tan] Good to see you, mate.
[man] Thirty seconds, please.
Thirty seconds to the runway.
Like, basically you're a Brooklyn boy.
You don't give a [bleeps]
[man] Twenty seconds.
Oh, my God,
this machine is my boyfriend now.
Kerby, what are you hoping to see
on the runway tonight?
I'm hoping to see wearability.
A really balanced runway
has a combination of fantasy
but also reality as well.
So I'm looking to see more
of that reality tonight.
[man] Ten seconds, everyone.
Everybody stand by. Here we go.
In five, four, three, two, and
- Time's up.
- [laughing]
- [man] Stand by. Here we go.
- [Claire] High five!
Let the runway begin!
[woman] Stand by. Pay attention.
[orchestral music playing]
- [gasping]
- [laughing]
Three, two, one. Go!
[Farai] Is this yours?
- Yes.
- Oh, fantastic!
The blue wrap falls a little flat for me.
The other one is very disjointed.
They didn't look like
they belong together.
- [Alexa] Right.
- I don't love her look.
I think that the fabric choice is unwise.
I don't think it looks expensive.
- I love the color blocking, though.
- Yeah.
- [Daniel] She looks good.
- [Marco] Yeah.
Could you see it on anyone you know?
[Jason] No, it does nothing for me.
The jacket's awesome.
They're fantastic at construction.
- [gasps]
- Oh, wow.
- [laughing]
- [exclaiming]
[Ashton] Yes!
I like the flair of the throwing
the thing out the pocket,
but again, we talk about wearability
and what on that is screaming "Buy me"?
It feels very dated.
- [cheering]
- [shouting]
[Jason] I love this poncho vibe.
- Love that!
- I love the color on color.
- This is amazing.
- [Kerby] The coordination
of the whole thing feels really good.
You can reinterpret it as a hoodie,
reinterpret it as a windbreaker.
I love that.
I quite like the green one.
I can imagine wearing that to Glastonbury.
- Yeah, yeah, yeah.
- [Kerby] I love the tenacity.
It inspires me
to know that there's a future of talent
that's gonna keep the art form of fashion
going and growing.
[woman] Three, two, one.
[cheering]
This, to me, feels like a good pair.
- [Tan] I don't love her look.
- I'm into it. I love these earth tones.
[gasps] Yes!
[Jason]
For him, it's a good performance look.
I can definitely see sending that on tour
with someone.
I want that belt. Yeah, I want that belt!
- [Jason] Of course you do.
- [Tan] Yeah, I love a belt.
The gray hoodie piece that she's wearing
is really nice and seems like a piece
that can be wearable.
I hate the idea of a bootie.
I hate the boot with it.
They really struggle with their styling
a lot.
- Fun!
- Yeah.
- [Alexa] This is Farai and Kiki.
- [Kerby] Do they know each other?
See, they feel like friends.
I do love this look.
I think it looks really together.
- The proportions are just a little off.
- Mm-hmm.
[Jason] For me, on her.
It's so busy,
and there's so much going on.
[Kerby] But I really do love this look.
The only thing I probably would have
changed is the colors of the tops.
They don't give you enough contrast
to see details.
[audience cheering]
[designers cheering]
- [cheering]
- Good job, everybody!
- [Marco] Finally!
- Bravo! Bravo!
- Celebration!
- [Charles] Yeah, Claire. Do it!
- [shouting]
- [laughing]
Good job Good job!
We're gonna get a chance to go
and inspect the designs.
- Should we hit it?
- Yes.
- [Daniel] Eagle eyes there.
- [laughing]
- [Minju laughs]
- Please stand there.
All right.
[Alexa] Angelo and Charles.
- Hi.
- Hello.
- Jason's here.
- [Jason] It's me again!
- Here he is.
- Good to see you guys again.
Nice to see you, too.
[Alexa]
Can you tell us about your look today?
Well, we wanted our models
first and foremost
- to have a story line.
- [Alexa] Okay.
So she woke up at her boyfriend's house,
rips up his hoodie,
wears it, and she's from last night's
outfit, so she has the shoes.
- That's the perfect breakup look.
- This is the breakup look!
[Jason]
I mean, this goes back to the one thing
that I did not really enjoy,
the bootie with this look.
- She wore it last night, we can't
- [Jason] For me, the boot threw me off.
- [Alexa] Right.
- But you know
[Alexa]
No, I think the details are incredible.
If you turn this side, love,
it has this cape detail.
- [Jason] I love that.
- [Alexa] The construction's fantastic.
Especially on this. That's amazing!
It's like a beautiful corset.
It's so well-finished, very impressive.
[Jason] I think it's really, really cool.
And I love this because this, instantly,
for me,
going from a stylist perspective,
I instantly thought
this would be so great on stage
for someone to perform in
or go onto tour with.
Overall, this look looks very cohesive.
The women's point of view
and the men's point of view merges,
and it made sense when
it walked down the runway for me.
- Well done. Thank you.
- [Jason] Thank you so much.
Tell us how you found this challenge.
We wanted to use classic sports staples
as our inspiration.
A varsity jacket, a flight jacket,
biker pant.
- These pants are leather as well?
- Yeah.
[Kerby] The craftsmanship
of the leather is really well done.
Yeah, I think that was really ambitious
of you guys
to take the two days that you had to work
with some of the toughest materials
that can possibly go through
a sewing machine.
And I commend you for that
'cause I would've never done that.
The stitching and everything
is really impressive,
even the splash of flair that you had
on the runway
where you had him explode.
[Carli] It's the idea of a parachute.
Yeah.
My only concern is that the graphic lines
makes it a little dated.
If you went a step further
and maybe rounded your lines out,
this would've been a slam dunk.
- So we will leave you with that. Thanks.
- Thank you.
Can you start by telling us
what the initial inspiration for this was?
It's like city life, right?
- Yeah.
- Mm-hmm.
I'm always trying
to send a message, basically.
So you're walkin' through the city,
where you're walkin', walkin',
and then a plastic bag blows
through the wind
- Aah!
- and gets stuck to you.
- [laughing]
- Yes.
It's super avant-garde.
This, I mean, I just want to wear it.
- Yeah.
- I think it's really, really cool
and when it walked down the runway,
- this is what I loved more.
- Same.
And now in person,
this is what I gravitate.
The only tricky thing about it is,
does it speak to everyone?
If I see a photo of this, am I gonna
instantly go online and try to buy it?
I love the color of the blue,
and I love all the cording.
Less keen on the actual shape
that's going on underneath.
So this one was like the more literal,
- a bag has plastered itself to my front.
- Literally hit in the chest.
I always take it back to the business
of it all.
- Will this jacket sell?
- Yeah.
I love this jacket. I love the ruching.
- Oh, thank you!
- [Jason] I love that ruching.
Thank you for letting me give you
my two cents.
- Thanks!
- [Jason] Take care.
- Kerby, Angel and Minju.
- Hello.
- Nice to meet you. I'm Kerby.
- Hi. I'm Minju.
Nice to meet you. I'm Angel.
You guys, tell us about what you've done
and sell it to Kerby.
So for this concept,
we've been looking to the female sea diver
in Jeju Island called Haenyeo.
When they come out from the water,
they would put
this kind of like windbreaker look.
[Tan]
I love the colors. I love the detailing.
Because it's a streetwear
and then we want to bring
like really bright, positive energy
with it.
So these colors were really attractive
to us.
- Yeah.
- [Kerby] How difficult was it
for you to manage this fabric?
[laughs] It was really hard to sew it.
It was like I keep stopping, stopping,
stopping like that.
Wow. The shearing that you did
is really difficult, too.
- That to me was very impressive.
- Yeah.
I thought that the silhouettes
were really, really strong.
This is your dress version of it,
but then you can also make
a hoodie version of it or bomber version.
- Yes!
- Yeah. Thank you so much for inspiring us.
You have a lot of stiff competition
in this challenge,
so we wish you luck!
Thank you. Thanks.
- Thank you so much.
- Thank you.
[Angel] Thank you, guys. Thank you.
Hello, Ashton and Marco. This is Jason.
- [Jason] Hi.
- Hey.
- You made a lot in a short space of time.
- Yeah, that's a lot!
We wanted to make it
so that they're separate,
so if you take off the jacket,
you still have
a statement piece underneath
that's just not so simple.
[Jason] I love that it's all muted.
I think it's smart. I think it's cool.
I think it's modern.
I love that.
That's literally
like a Taraji P. Henson moment.
Day-to-day with a combat boot.
Like, I love a cozy cashmere sweater
and, like, a really relaxed short.
[Alexa] I think the color palette
was so beautiful.
It really stood out on the runway
because everyone else had chosen
- this explosion of color and textures.
- [Ashton] Yeah.
I think with streetwear,
you want to keep it luxury
and I think that this palette achieves it
because it's good on every skin tone.
- Yeah.
- And it feels high end.
The only thing I would say
is just peel some things off.
Just sometimes the best thing
is to actually take away.
Yeah. It's a shame to disguise
how beautiful those lines are.
- Thank you, guys.
- Appreciate it.
[Alexa] Thank you. Well done.
- [Tan] Farai and Kiki. Hi, ladies.
- Hi.
- This is Kerby. This is Kiki.
- A pleasure to meet you.
[Tan] Farai.
Kiki pioneered FUBU's womens wear line.
Yeah. I started designing for FUBU
when we were still in Queens.
Oh, wow.
You know, it being the first
urban women's brand.
- So this is your space?
- Yeah.
Conceptually, this is one of the ones
that I liked.
This was the one that looked
to the future.
Yes! [laughs]
But there's definitely
some construction issues.
Probably the most jarring thing was
all these raw edgings don't look like
they were done on purpose.
- It was very intentional.
- [Tan] Yeah.
The man's look, that felt like an add-on.
It felt like a last minute thought.
And then also with the color.
On the runway, it has to pop.
So I just wish the contrasting fabric
made it pop more.
I saw that there was some disagreements.
- Yeah.
- Did you feel the pressure?
Everything is personal.
This is not a trend.
It's a culture.
It's about evoking feeling and emotion,
and I feel like we did that.
- Yeah.
- I think you nailed it in that aspect.
You've given us real food for thought.
Thank you so much.
Thank you so much.
A pleasure to meet you.
Good job, guys.
Aw.
Thank you so much.
I think this is gonna be one
of the toughest weeks for us to judge.
We're definitely gonna disagree, agree.
- Fisticuffs. Yeah.
- Seriously, fisticuffs.
Jason, let's start with you.
What did you think
about Claire and Adolfo?
This is a tricky one.
I loved the men's jacket. I loved it.
[Kerby]
I didn't see any particular innovation.
The blue piece that went over the garment,
it felt like an afterthought.
Would I want to put that on my body? No.
I'd feel like I'm wearing a garbage bag.
Ooh.
[Alexa] Carli and Daniel.
[Tan] I liked the man's jacket.
It was nice, it felt commercial.
What I did appreciate about them
was the craftsmanship
and, like, their ability to work
with leather.
- [Tan] Yeah.
- [Jason] It was very safe.
Did it do anything that excite me? No.
Angel and Minju.
[Jason] I love it that they're not afraid
of color.
[Kerby] Just the amount
of ways you can wear the beige.
I can see that becoming a hoodie,
see that becoming a T-shirt.
They're a duo that I definitely want
to see more and more from.
And then we have Ashton and Marco.
[Alexa] As a male and female look,
there was consistency.
They had harmony to them.
[Jason]
The technical aspect of it was amazing.
The overall design of it
was really impressive,
and I can see what the market collection
of this would look like.
What did you think
about Angelo and Charles?
I love that belt!
Does it fill the brief
of a luxe sportswear?
For me, it does.
[Kerby] The craftsmanship
of the hoodie was well-done, impressive.
It's done to perfection.
Those guys are good.
- Yeah.
- [Alexa] Yeah.
Farai and Kiki.
[Tan] The color choice was poor.
On the runway, it looked so, so, so flat.
The look on the young lady,
I'm just not interested in.
I just didn't connect to these looks.
They're not my cup of tea.
The execution stresses me out,
and I don't want to be stressed.
[Kerby]
Everything about it was innovative.
If you put execution aside,
they gave us something that was new.
You guys, we have to make a decision.
Who should be our bottom two?
I don't have an answer.
For me, the bottom here would be
- Claire and Adolfo with the plastic.
- Okay.
[Alexa sighs]
It seems like everything is derivative.
You won't get new ideas out of them.
For me, it has to be Carli and Daniel.
And then also for me, Farai and Kiki.
This is a problem area
at every single challenge.
The execution just wasn't there.
The construction was way too home-crafty
for me.
[Kerby] I disagree with that.
If we're gonna judge
Farai and Kiki on construction,
you also have to judge Claire and Adolfo.
I hear that.
But Kiki and Farai definitely
fell a bit flat.
I totally disagree with you.
Okay, you guys.
This is a difficult decision, I get it,
but we have to make a decision.
[techno music playing]
All of you showed
absolutely beautiful designs tonight.
And one team, just one team
can be named the winner.
The winning team is
- Angel and Minju.
- [gasps]
What is that secret sauce you have?
'Cause you have two wins
under your belt now.
What makes you a powerhouse?
I think, first of all,
the trust between us.
- Yeah, I think that there's the big trust.
- That's the biggest.
We've known each other for four years,
and we've been appreciating each other.
Do you feel like you've got more
to give, to show us, to excite us with?
Yeah, there's lots of things
that you haven't seen about us.
- Yes, Minju!
- Come on. It's not ended.
It's not ended yet.
Yes, Minju!
[laughing]
Okay, designers.
This is the horrible bit of the night.
We're gonna ask two teams
to step forward now,
and we will be saying goodbye
to one of those teams.
Please step forward
Claire and Adolfo.
[Alexa] And the next team that we would
like to step forward is
Farai and Kiki.
- [scoffs]
- You gotta be kidding me.
Oh, man.
Claire and Adolfo,
I thought it was interesting and cool.
But the issue that I have is
when it walked down the runway,
I wasn't blown away.
So I think that's one thing
that you definitely need to think about,
is instantly blowing people away.
[Tan] In a sea of creative looks,
your fabrics fell flat.
It didn't inspire me in any way.
I mean, I actually agree with a lot of it.
Um, especially with the jacket
'cause we wanted to do reflective.
And we thought that that would be
more effective on the runway,
- not less.
- Right.
I understand the feedback completely.
[Tan] Farai and Kiki,
this is now the third time
that you are in this position,
and honestly, I hate seeing you
in this position.
I personally disagree
that we're in the bottom.
We were given streetwear,
and we designed from our perspective.
And the thing that I've noticed
in the fashion industry,
it's mostly one voice that's heard.
The high-end brands and designers
are taking ideas from us every single day.
And it only becomes cool
when it's high-end.
For a lot of us, minorities,
the underprivileged,
we want you to see us,
but it's so hard to be seen.
It's really frustrating
because I look to designers like Kerby.
I look to you, Jason,
because you guys are in those spaces.
- Can I say something to you?
- [Farai] Yeah.
- The space that you occupy is your space.
- Right.
[Jason] You have to occupy the space
and amplify it.
I still go through it, and I work
with the top people in the business.
But what you have to understand is
your struggle is what makes you magic.
And if tonight is a no,
it does not matter.
- You need one "yes."
- Mm-hmm.
I started this company because
I couldn't find a job in the industry.
When I started making innovative designs
and really started to find my voice,
I started seeing my stuff show up.
Louis Vuitton copies my [bleeps]
It's just the way that the world
is working for me right now,
but the challenge was to get people
to love it universally.
- Right.
- I get it. 'Cause I'm from Brooklyn.
Whatever happens tonight, just know
- that I've gotten way more "no's."
- I'm telling you. You only need one "yes."
But
when I saw it down the runway,
I was ready for it
because I just-- Your tenacity
and your spunk and your cool.
Then when I got to see it in person,
It was, for me, it was more
about the finishings.
I just want to see something that's
completely beautifully finished.
It could've been finished.
Like, there was plenty of time,
but I really--
[laughs]
She's probably gonna kick me
because I was-- I was like,
"I think that for--
I like the raw edges." So [laughs]
Farai and Kiki.
I hate this part. Right?
You know, it was-- It was--
It was something that I liked personally.
But you know, this is the hard part
for everyone.
I think what it really came down to
is the execution
and the construction of it.
I wouldn't take away points
for those things because I understand
the amount of time,
but the newness of the sizing
of the overalls and everything
was something that I liked.
I loved it.
Whatever happens,
whatever happens tonight,
I do think that you guys are talented.
I'm not happy about this.
Okay, guys. Obviously, we're gonna need
a minute with this.
We're gonna have another chat.
[Tan] Please gather around.
I just can't stop shaking my head.
[Tan] Can you come to a decision
between the two?
For me, it has to be Farai and Kiki,
you guys.
[Kerby] You gotta be kidding me.
This is Next in Fashion.
I feel like they can be that.
[Tan]
But the execution just wasn't there.
Ugh! I don't want to do this.
I need to leave the room.
Yeah, I need to leave the room.
I'm not happy about this. I'm really mad.
He's going out?
[Marco] We're in the middle
of the elimination,
and Kerby just, like, disappears.
- Poof.
- You know?
He's gone.
Is he not coming back?
No one knows what's happening.
I know he's upset about something,
but we don't know
if no one's going home,
if both are going home.
We don't really know the outcome.
[Claire] Good grief.
[Charles whispers]
Like, this has ever happened?
It's never happened, right?
[theme music playing]
[woman vocalizing]
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