Somebody Feed Phil (2018) s01e04 Episode Script
Lisbon
1
Oh, hello!
- How are you?
- Can you see us?
- I see you very well.
- Yes. You look good, Phillip.
I do?
Yes, you look very good.
I think traveling traveling suits you.
- I think Portugal agrees with me.
- It agrees with me too. I love it.
- Beautiful city.
- It is. It's beautiful.
I don't think enough people know about it.
- I agree.
- They don't advertise,
but people go to they
When they come, they go to Spain
rather than Lisbon.
Lisbon, nobody
Uh, very few people heard of it,
so they don't go.
That's not true, Max.
What are you talking about?
Yes! They don't advertise
like they do in Spain.
- Maybe you're the ad for Portugal.
- Right.
This is Max Rosenthal for Portugal.
What are you going to Spain for?
Why don't you try Lisbon?
A happy, hungry man ♪
Is traveling
All across the sea and the land ♪
He's trying to understand ♪
The art of pasta, pork
Chicken, and lamb ♪
He will drive to you ♪
He will fly to you ♪
He will sing for you ♪
And he'll dance for you ♪
He will laugh with you ♪
And he'll cry for you ♪
There's just one thing
He asks in return ♪
Somebody feed, somebody feed ♪
Can somebody ♪
Somebody feed Phil? ♪
Somebody feed him now ♪
Lisbon. I don't know that it's
the first city you think of when you say,
"I gotta I want to travel.
I don't even want to travel to Europe.
I'm going to Lisbon."
There's lots of other cities
that come up first in your head, right?
Lisbon is centuries older
than London, Paris, or Rome,
and it's closer to Africa
than it is to most of the rest of Europe.
I love it's on the water,
it's on the beautiful river
that opens out onto the Atlantic.
Many explorers sailed from here.
Vasco da Gama, Magellan, right?
Uh If you talk to my mother,
Helen Rosenthal sailed from here
after World War II.
Since I don't really know
that much about Lisbon,
this one's gonna be
about the joy of discovery,
and that's one of the best things
about traveling anyway.
The first thing I want to discover
is one of the things Lisbon
is most famous for: pastries.
And the most famous pastry is this.
It's amazing what you can do with eggs,
cream, cinnamon, and a lot of butter.
So this is the most famous thing
in Portugal, right? In Lisbon?
Yeah, yeah, it's the most famous,
and we produce the best ones.
I want to say it right. Pastéis de nata.
Yes. Pastéis.
- Did I say it right?
- That's plural.
- Plural?
- In singular, you say "pastel de nata."
- Pastel de nata.
- That's it.
Okay, so I'm gonna start with a pastel,
and we'll see if I'm gonna have pastéis.
- You're supposed to have it with coffee?
- Yes.
Do you make a macchiato?
- Macchiato.
- Double macchiato.
Double macchiato. Okay.
Thank you.
So I'm gonna serve you a hot one.
- Yeah!
- It's warm.
I've never had it.
It's really good
with cinnamon and sugar on top.
I do it.
- Yeah.
- Come on.
- You can add more. We
- Yeah?
- Yeah, yeah, let me do it for you.
- You do it.
The Portuguese way.
Like this and like this.
I'm excited!
- You can taste it.
- Okay.
Macchiato.
You know those Chinese egg custard
tarts that you get in the restaurants?
What if they were
really, really, really good?
This is just a
like warm, creamy, delicious
in a flaky thing
with cinnamon and sugar on top.
- It's gonna be pastéis.
- I knew it.
But there's more than pastéis
at this place,
so luckily the market's curator
is here to help me navigate
both the food and the language.
João!
- Exactly.
- I said it right.
- You said it perfectly. João.
- João.
- João.
- That's close enough.
There's a "oão" a "oão"
that you have in Portuguese
- that I haven't heard anywhere else. Yes?
- No other language. Yes.
There's a "oão" sound. "Oão."
This is a sound we don't have, right?
Unless it's, uh you're imitating
the Charlie Brown, uh, teacher.
Wah, wah.
And you should.
João was the editor
of Time Out Lisbon.
He thought if he could curate
a marketplace
that was like a permanent food festival,
maybe that would be successful.
And it seems to have worked.
This is a collection
of Lisbon's greatest food hits.
- Cod cake.
- Cod cake?
Yeah.
Cod is like the main national dish.
That's fantastic.
Now what?
The Asian beef with foie gras on the top.
Ooh.
Wow!
You're smiling like I'm smiling.
So here's a place,
all they do is sell canned fish.
Why would I
Why is that a stop on the tour?
My grandfather was the guy
that started this business.
- Of canning sardines?
- Yeah.
Sardines, mackerel, octopus, squid,
uh, codfish, horse mackerel, tuna.
- Who's the lady on the can?
- I don't know.
I like to think it's kind of
a Sophia Loren look-alike.
If you squint a little bit.
When we eat canned food in America,
it's out of convenience.
In Portugal,
they've elevated this to an art form.
And the Oh, look how beau
Look at the color!
And they also make great souvenirs.
Mmm!
- Yes!
- Kind of good, right?
- Muita bom.
- Muito bom.
Did I say it right?
- Almost.
- Almost.
That's the tuna thing, the belly.
It's really smooth in your mouth.
That's my favorite so far!
It tastes super fresh.
Super fresh.
Everything I tried was terrific.
It's my favorite thing to do, is to taste
little tastes of different things.
What's this one?
That's the horse mackerel
with the garlic and the parsley.
Isn't that good?
You can taste the horse.
- You can taste the horse.
- No.
This is fantastic.
First thing I noticed when I came,
and this is maybe just me,
when I'm walking, I look down a lot,
mainly because
I don't want to step in anything.
I think you know what I'm saying.
The sidewalk is a sidewalk,
but in Lisbon, the sidewalks
are these beautiful limestone mosaics.
It's absolutely gorgeous.
What does it say about a place,
where the thing underfoot
is beautiful as well, right?
And then you look up.
The tiles are on the building,
beautiful ceramics,
beautiful tiles.
And I fell in love kind of immediately.
I think it's important
to get an overview
of wherever you are in the world, right?
How long have you worked here?
- Two months.
- Yeah, you like it?
- Yes.
- It has its ups and downs.
Sorry?
- It has its ups and downs.
- Yes.
That's my elevator joke.
Oh, now you're talking!
Lisbon.
It might be time to eat something.
Chef and food genius José Avillez
is one big reason Lisbon has become one
of the hottest culinary cities in Europe.
And his Belcanto is the first two-star
Michelin restaurant in all of Portugal.
- Hello!
- Reservation?
Am I supposed to push the button?
Is that how it works?
- Welcome to our kitchen.
- Oh.
Here is where everything happens.
- I'm getting sneak previews! Yes.
- Heading to the chef's table.
- Wow, wow!
- At present, it's crowded.
- You will eat here.
- Really?
This is a table that we prepared for you.
- Really?
- We'll help you.
- Get in, please.
- Thank you.
I have the best job.
And I have the best seat:
the chef's table, with the chef,
in the kitchen.
Belcanto comes
from the name of an opera.
Yeah.
Because we are just
across the square from the opera house,
- opera theater here, São Carlos.
- Ah, yeah.
Growing up, my mother used to play
opera in the house.
Here's one I can actually enjoy.
Wow.
It's dinner and a show.
What we have now as Portuguese cuisine
is completely different
than 500 years ago.
But what I say is,
even tradition, it's evolution.
- Right.
- But the soul is completely Portuguese.
Come on, look how pretty.
The ashes,
they are smoked with rosemary.
We do a butter
made of the interior of the head.
Mmm.
Wow.
Act two.
We call it the Garden of the Goose
That Laid the Golden Egg.
So it's an egg, cooked at low temperature,
covered with a golden leaf,
edible golden leaf.
- Please, Phil.
- It looks amazing.
With cheese from São Jorge's, mushrooms,
hazelnut, green truffle,
and crunchy bread.
Mmm. Wow.
Mmm.
- This melts in your mouth.
- Yes, it does!
This is an incredible, incredible dish.
When Monica asks me,
"How do you like your eggs?"
I'm gonna say, "Covered in gold
with black truffles, please."
What's amazing about Belcanto is:
yes, it's pretty,
yes, it looks like works of art
but then, it's delicious.
So we have here the mandarin dessert.
A crumble made of mushrooms.
Wow.
You would never know that's mushroom.
- You can crack.
- Yes?
Like this and
Oh, look at that. Oh.
The sorbet
is filled with mandarin spume.
For me, I think it's a great way
to round out a meal.
It's fantastic.
Chef.
Standing ovation.
And now it's time
for a little sightseeing.
Somebody told me this was a good idea.
Playing Batman to my useless Robin
is Daniel Coelho,
a guide whose sidecar tours
turn Lisbon into a full-body workout.
You feel like you're in a tin can,
uh, bopping up and down the road,
cobblestone streets sometimes. Uh
It's okay, I don't need
those last two vertebrae.
You feel the history.
This is shaking loose my fillings.
Ah, nice!
And then, we invented pavement.
People look at us,
they stare at us, they wave at us.
- That happens to me every day anyway.
- Every day?
But now I look extra sexy!
Very low off the ground,
but it's an amazing 360-degree view
of everything.
Especially when you go down
the narrow streets, you really get it.
Gonna go down the coast over here.
There's always a very cool view.
- Wow.
- Lisbon is all about the details.
There's a couple of big dates we have
to remember in the Lisbon history.
- 1755, the earthquake.
- The big earthquake.
It will change everything.
The course of Lisbon history,
Portuguese history, everything.
Then we have, right in front of us,
the Marquis of Pombal.
So when they are rebuilding Lisbon,
it is due to him,
to his vision, that Lisbon looks like
what it looks like today.
- The designer as the hero.
- Exactly.
He's overlooking his achievements.
Time for a little break,
especially since
I can't feel my legs anymore.
The sardine emerges from his can.
You think they have a chiropractor
in there?
So I'll have, uh, two pastéis
and one, uh, macchiato take-away.
Ah, it's very nice.
- Ah.
- Oh, perfect.
People stop and stare.
They don't bother me.
The guys told me, "You got to eat
at this place and it's across the river."
The first thing you notice
is what a huge, wide river.
The setting of this restaurant
is so magical.
You're on this little
I guess, you can't even call it a pier,
because it's just
It juts out, it's a concrete thing,
and they've set up tables
out in the middle,
with no railing.
I mean, if I move my chair or if I forget
and have one glass of wine too many,
which, for me, is one glass of wine,
I take a step to the right,
I'm off the edge and into the water.
I didn't have anyone
to share this view with.
Except my friend, Ivo.
Ivo! Are you hungry?
- Very much.
- I'm glad.
Ivo works on the crew here.
He's great.
He even picked me up from the airport,
and so, I love him.
- Famous, this restaurant.
- It is?
- Small, but everybody comes here.
- What's it called? Ponto Final?
- Ponto Final means "full stop."
- I'm gonna full stop right here,
because if I go, I'm serious,
six inches and I am in the water.
So I asked how many people have fallen in.
Nobody. Why?
Because when people don't see
a guardrail, they're extra careful.
Something to think about.
Ah!
- Prawns.
- Look at that!
What's wrong with this? Nothing!
Mmm.
- A little spicy.
- Is it?
- You like spicy, eh?
- I love it!
- Hello!
- Sardines!
Grilled sardines, my favorite fish.
And Lisbon is sardine-crazy.
You know what we do?
- Yeah? Tell me.
- We get a slice of bread.
- Yeah.
- And then we put the sardine on top.
And at the end,
the slice of bread is filled with grease,
and then you eat the bread
and it's delicious.
What's happening now?
We don't have room for anything.
Something has to go in the river.
It was this gorgeous stew of monkfish
and rice and tomato sauce.
- Wow, that's good!
- Yes, the rice is very good.
This is Did you have this?
This is awesome!
I love this place.
I fell in love with Ivo.
We bonded over something on his arm.
- Bruce Springsteen! Look at his arm.
- He's the greatest.
I'm very proud of your tattoo.
If I was going to get a tattoo,
which I'm not
- You're too old.
- it might be that.
And I'm too old for tattoos, as well.
I pretend I'm not old.
As you get older, he will get older.
You think that where you sit
- affects how the food tastes?
- I think so. Yeah.
We were talking the other day
about the music in restaurants,
everything is important.
- I hate when the music is too loud.
- Yeah.
This is the perfect soundtrack for eating.
Yeah.
- Yeah.
- You just hear
They're a little loud, but
but the water
This is all you need.
You know what we have to do someday?
We have to go to Springsteen together.
- That would be beautiful.
- He's my favorite.
- To Bruce!
- To Bruce. To the boss.
Just west of the city center,
and a great place for a walk,
is the neighborhood of Belém.
And now that I'm a pastéis junkie,
I can't leave Lisbon
without trying the most famous ones.
It's packed!
There's a lot of pastéis lovers.
Now I'm here by myself and I really
would like to sit with people,
but, you know, it's awkward sometimes.
Then again, sometimes you have to make
that little leap.
What if I sit with you
and have a pastéis for one minute,
and then I leave you alone?
Hi, I'm Phil.
- I'm Rocío.
- Rocío.
Where you come from?
- I'm from America.
- America!
Where do you come from? Spain?
Spain.
- Madrid.
- Madrid!
- Where are they?
- Where are the things?
Oh!
- Belém! Belém! Belém!
- All right. I have a plate here.
Bravo! Bravo!
So I had one yesterday. The first time
I had one is in the Time Out Market.
So now I have to compare
because this is the most famous, right?
Nice. All right, here we go.
Hold on.
- Mmm!
- Mmm!
Delicious!
It's good.
It's very good.
A little bit crispier
than the ones I had in town.
They're both phenomenal.
I'm not declaring a winner.
I love them both. I need both.
Could you say who is the girlfriend
or the boyfriend?
You want me to pick who is
- Who goes with who?
- Yes.
- Play.
- Okay, these two go together.
Yeah?
- I guessed it right away.
- Yeah, it's perfect.
I like you two together,
I think that's very good.
- You
- No.
No, wait, I'm saving you.
You with him?
- Nice!
- No, no, no.
You also with him.
Yeah.
The three!
You You You with her?
- No.
- No.
You with her?
Me with her!
Okay, now tell me the truth.
Who's with who?
I got it all wrong, right?
I got everything wrong.
- This is my wife.
- This is your wife!
Very sorry. I didn't mean anything.
Very sweet couple.
- And you?
- This is my love.
Aw!
"This is my love."
I like how she says it,
"This is my love."
And you are with who?
With him!
Isn't that interesting, you all sit
very far away from each other.
I know how it works. I know how it works.
Here's what I've learned: food is what connects us,
and laughs are the cement.
- Thank you.
- Thank you.
- This is the best coffee shop. Wow.
- Thank you very much.
This is the most action I've had
in a long time.
I don't want to say, "Lisbon is like,"
because that would be to minimize it.
You know, like people call me
"the handsome Ryan Gosling."
I don't think that's fair to me.
But still, I can't help but think
there's something very familiar
about Lisbon.
Maybe because they were
a nation of explorers,
you can see influences
from all around the world.
To me, it feels most like San Francisco,
with the hills and the trolley cars,
and the bay and the bridge
that looks like the Golden Gate even.
But it's also got cafés like Paris,
piazzas like Rome.
They've even got a massive stone statue
of Jesus like Rio De Janeiro.
But Lisbon is not only home
to a Jesus made of stone.
Today, I'm going to meet
a real flesh and blood Jesus.
This is Jesus of Goa.
Ah!
- Are you Jesus?
- Yes, Phil, how are you?
- I am only Phil.
- Right. Good.
This is my "Come to Jesus" moment.
My mother's Catholic 100 percent,
that's why she baptized me
by the name of Jesus.
- Really?
- Jesus Lee together.
Father's a big fan of Bruce Lee,
- so they joined together.
- You're kidding me!
- Is that true? Really?
- It's true.
And the restaurant is Jesus é
- É Goês.
- Goês.
"Goês" means "From Goa."
- Jesus from Goa.
- Goa. Yeah.
Goa was an ex-colony of Portugal.
Portuguese were ruling Goa for 500 years.
- Really?
- The food, we call it "Indo-Portuguese."
It's a symbiosis.
It's a mixture of Indian
and Portuguese food.
The Portuguese brought potatoes,
hot peppers, and more to Goa.
Indian food today would be very different
without their influence.
Um
You will go crazy with it,
that's what I can say.
Because my name is Jesus and I make
miracles, so I'll make you crazy tonight.
Listen, making me crazy
is no miracle, Jesus.
Let's start with this.
In India we say, bread, we use our hands.
- You use your hands, yes.
- So you gotta do this.
Yes.
Ah.
- And you do it like a taco. Yeah?
- Ah.
Try. Try. Come on.
A beautiful yellow curry.
It's saffron.
- And you made the bread too?
- Yep.
I've never had this food!
Whenever I eat this, I'm back in Goa.
Turns out, when he was a kid,
Jesus came to Lisbon
and started working,
and just trained himself to be a chef.
- You didn't study?
- No.
Study is day by day life.
That's the best school.
You gotta love this guy.
- What's your name?
- Filipa.
- Filipa!
- Filipa.
- You know what my name is?
- Phil.
- India.
- Yes, it is a Goan restaurant.
And yes, this Jesus
even makes his own wine.
I gave the name to this wine.
By the name of Jesus, it should be called
"Blood of My Blood," yeah?
Maybe you're taking this a little too far.
- You're gonna enjoy what's next.
- Okay.
It's called the Holy Burger.
- Holy burger?
- Yeah.
Wow. Thank you!
This looks like a one-bite.
This is your communion wafer.
The meat is marinated
with fresh coriander
- Thank you.
- green chilies, garlic,
ginger, cinnamon, cloves some tamarind.
So you're gonna feel like you're having
a boxing fight in your mouth.
You gotta do it at once.
- Okay?
- Together?
- Yeah.
- Ready?
- One
- Two, three.
Mmm.
- Can you feel the flavors in it?
- It's not boxing.
They're making sexy time.
That's very That's the best.
I'm gonna start saying that now.
Next, more Portuguese
meets Indian food: shrimp samosas.
In India, they normally make
only the vegetarian samosas,
and in Goa, they only make meat samosas,
but I came to Portugal,
and I make samosas of shrimps,
- squids, octopus, sardines.
- Oh.
Wow.
You could have a stand
that just sells different samosas.
I can't believe I'm saying this,
but thank you, Jesus.
What comes next for you?
What are you gonna do?
Do you want to make another restaurant?
- No, no.
- Do you want You love this.
I cannot be
They say Jesus is everywhere,
but I cannot be everywhere.
I can be only in one place.
I don't want to leave this place,
I love it.
- Can I get an "amen" somebody?
- Amen.
Next is one thing
Portugal is famous for
that I honestly know
next to nothing about.
So, I meet up with Célia Pedroso,
food writer,
and she gives food tours of Lisbon.
She gave me a mini tour
of a wonderful place
that does charcuterie
and cheese and
port.
I don't know a lot about port.
But my wife loves it.
- How old?
- Ten years.
- Ten years old, and this is a tawny?
- Tawny, ten years old, yes.
So tawny means aged.
- Tawny is the color.
- Color.
- Just the color or
- The color is more gold color,
not so dark.
- The color is totally different here.
- Yes, yes.
Here's the difference, people.
Tawny, ruby.
We're learning about port today.
- I'm very happy. Here you go.
- Thank you.
I was in a store in America,
and the man said, "You buy this port
and you save it
for your 50th wedding anniversary.
Put it away, save it."
I told my wife I got this port,
and two weeks later I come home,
her and her girlfriend
have drunk the whole bottle.
I said, "This was for our anniversary!"
She said, "Oh, I forgot!"
She drank the whole thing
with her friend over some potato chips.
Remember if it was a ruby or a tawny?
It was expensive, that's what I remember!
- Cheers. Saúde.
- Saúde.
You drink more? A little?
No, I shouldn't. I shouldn't. I sh
- Little bit.
- All right.
Drink.
Port is fortified wine,
meaning they add a bit of alcohol
to stop fermentation,
which is what makes it
sweeter than wine,
and also a little more powerful.
So have you decided which one
do you prefer, the tawny or the ruby?
They both have nice qualities.
Mm-hmm.
Tawny, ruby.
Happy!
But I'm starting to feel it.
So now I'm going to dance a little.
Uh, I'm not kidding either, by the way.
Like, enough. Enough for Daddy!
But Célia says I have to try
one more local favorite.
You know, if I didn't know better,
I'd say she's trying to get me tipsy.
- Here's the ginja store.
- Exactly.
Well, I'm already drunk, so let's go.
- Bom dia.
- Bom dia.
Senhor Abílio
has been working here since 1973.
Since '72, 1972.
What's a year or two?
What they serve here
is a sour cherry liqueur called "ginja."
Lisboans love it.
They drink it before dinner, after dinner,
after lunch, after port.
Apparently,
no hour is off-limits for ginja.
I love a place
that's dedicated to one thing.
The sour cherries
are sitting in the bottom.
Oh, it's delicious.
Delicioso.
- You like it?
- Yes!
- You come all the time?
- Yes.
- Every day?
- Yes.
I need my ginjinha!
- Saúde.
- Saúde.
- Saúde.
- Saúde.
- Saúde.
- Saúde.
Careful. Careful, dear, you're spilling.
We need to get it inside, not outside.
- She's saying, "No waste!"
- No waste. No.
You know, this one is stronger
in alcohol than port wine.
This one is 23-and-a-half percent alcohol.
I better stop
because I already feel the port.
So now I'm like, "Ooh, ooh, ooh."
You better drink some of this.
I think I need to buy a bottle.
My wife will be very happy with me
that I bring her alcohol.
Maybe if she's drinking this,
she'll lay off the port.
And now I need to go lay down.
How does a place
get its hooks in you?
Well, how it looks,
how it feels to walk around,
how are the people, how's the food?
And after a while,
does this ever happen to you?
I could maybe live here.
My favorite kind of restaurant is Ramiro.
Casual with amazing food.
This happens to be seafood, a celebration
of what's all around you in this town,
which is the water.
I meet Lisbon food journalist
Miguel Pires here,
along with our producer, Abbie,
and our production manager, Andrew.
Andrew and Abbie.
- Yes.
- Yeah.
I couldn't have my kids here with me,
so
I wanted to bring them
because I feel a little bad for the crew
because here's pig-o eating everything
and everybody's just, you know, hard,
and I I
It's only good if you can share it, right?
Is this your favorite seafood place
in Lisbon?
- Definitely.
- Definitely!
I would say in Portugal.
- Or I can say in the world
- In the world?
But I've never been
all over the world so
The world that I know.
- Oh, boy.
- Oh, my goodness.
What?!
Beautiful.
It's gorgeous.
And this is maybe
more strange for you?
- Never saw that.
- This is very hard to get.
Not everyone is as happy
about dinner as we are.
They're like a monster.
They're always like this.
- He knows what you're planning.
- Yes.
Look at his face.
Turn it to the camera right there.
"This is a terrible restaurant.
I wouldn't eat here if I were you."
"Choose the turkey!"
- Here you go.
- "You know what's good? Ham."
They showed us, I don't know,
six kinds of shrimp.
Yes! Looky!
Whoa!
Oh, boy. Holy moly!
One was more delicious than the next.
These pale ones, these
The small ones that you just
you could eat,
because the shells were so soft,
you could just crunch them just with salt,
just steamed or boiled, salt. That's it.
This is amazing! This is amazing!
And it keeps on coming, doesn't it?
It just keeps on coming.
And then the carabinero.
Ruby red giant prawns.
Eighty percent of the taste
is in the head.
You want to show us how to do it?
- Oh, my God.
- I don't know if I can do that.
You became a caveman.
- You are a caveman.
- But you're cute doing it.
That is incredible!
I told you.
It's like God made seafood soup.
You're welcome.
Wow, this makes me happy.
- Yeah?
- Yeah.
This is the dessert in Ramiro.
Oh, dessert is a steak sandwich.
Yes, my kind of place!
They give you a jar of mustard.
They give you some piri piri sauce,
the spicy sauce. Come on!
After you eat all the shellfish,
you need sometimes something more too.
So let's bring the dessert
that is the steak on bread.
We call this "Prego."
We break things all the time.
It's good? It's good? Good dessert?
- Cheers!
- Cheers!
Cheers!
Lisbon is a great city for walking.
If you're in shape.
Some of the hills will kill you.
Bom dia.
Thank God for modern technology.
This tram saved me from a heart attack.
They call it the tram, number 28!
Number 28 takes you on some main streets,
but also these tiny, tiny
And when I say "tiny side streets,"
I mean, there's barely enough room
for the cable car.
I mean, you can put your hand
out the window and touch the buildings.
It's almost like a ride,
like a Disney ride,
where you're going through dioramas.
Here's the barbershop.
Here's the deli.
Here's the coffee shop.
Here's the art gallery.
Here's the bakery. Here's another bakery.
Here's another bakery.
Here's another bakery.
Have I mentioned the bakeries?
And now a lesson
in what makes a great neighborhood.
Great people!
And these people happen to have brought
what they do best to a new land,
have made it great for them
and fantastic for everybody else here.
Ciao! How are you?
- I'm happy to meet you, Phil.
- Oh, thank you. Thank you.
This beautiful Italian lady,
Costanza, moved here from Rome.
Sérgio, who's just from down the block,
works behind the counter.
He's a pip.
Today, the cheesecake is made
with raspberries and strawberries.
- Yes. Yes.
- Raspberry-strawberry cheesecake.
- Oh.
- Oh.
He sees light, you know,
he sees the light.
It's damn good.
I mean, it is like Florence, Italy good.
Who are you?
- Alessandro!
- Alessandro.
Alessandro! Phil!
- You speak English?
- A little bit.
I no speak English.
And here comes Alessandro
from the pizza place next door.
He is my man from
for pizza, you know.
- Ice cream and pizza, too.
- Ah!
And dance!
And dance, because we are
Italian and we like dancing.
- Okay.
- It's like a sitcom all of a sudden.
- One moment
- Yeah.
All right. Look at
Wait a second.
Lisbon, land of opportunity
for the other countries around the world.
Oh, the pizza!
Whoo!
- Wow.
- Directly from Rome!
He's You are also from Rome?
- Rome. Rome.
- Obviously.
- They are all from Rome!
- You should try this.
So this is a cultural exchange program
here in Lisbon?
Yes.
Very crunchy and delicious.
- I'm so happy!
- Here we are a family.
You thought to be in Lisbon,
but now you are in Rome.
Isn't that great?
Would you like some gelato? I buy for you.
- Ah, yes. Okay.
- Okay.
- Tell her what flavor you like.
- Manga.
- Small cone. Look.
- I tasted Oh, yeah, that's cute.
- Cute like you.
- Kid-size.
- It's a good size.
- No, kid-size.
- Kid-size?
- Yeah. He's a kid.
- Well, he looks like a kid.
- I very, very small.
Yes, you are. You're kind of tiny.
- My friend, now it's okay!
- Yes.
- Now he's taller than you.
- I'm taller.
It's like Roberto Benigni exploded.
Look what your ice cream does to a person.
- Yes, yes, yes.
- To you, my friend.
To my friend.
- Beautiful.
- Beautiful.
Mmm.
Like you take a mango and
Yes.
They said, "You know,
you gotta meet Maria
across the street because
she makes the best sausages in town."
I'm like, "What do you mean?"
I'm in love with her, you know,
but she don't
- She don't like you? No?
- No, she don't like me.
Sérgio, he was telling me
you have the best sausages
in all of Lisbon. Yes.
But you also came from somewhere else.
I did. I am from Austria.
Yeah.
And why Lisbon for you?
Um
We've been here
So, I came with my boyfriend,
and we've been here various times
- on holiday. I'm sorry.
- Boyfriend. I'm sorry.
- But I still like your ice cream.
- Yeah.
- Um
- Keep making ice cream, you never know.
Of course. It's the best.
- Does your boyfriend make ice cream?
- No!
- No, he doesn't.
- He was fast to say,
"No. He doesn't do anything."
- I know her boyfriend.
- "He's a bum!"
All right, I want to taste.
So what we've got here is the most
simplest way to eat sausages in Austria.
The frankfurter is the most simplest one,
and the other one is a bit spicy.
If you want, in Austria,
we would just grab them
Hello!
He's everywhere, you know.
He's everywhere.
Wow!
I'm calling the police next time.
She's making incredible,
homemade bratwurst from scratch.
Come on. That's delicious.
This one is
a sausage filled with cheese,
which is my personal favorite.
I'm doing a little mustard
and sauerkraut on this one.
Mmm.
Do you like it?
It's great.
I wouldn't think that you would need
cheese in a sausage, but I guess you do.
Now I have a trip to Italy and Austria
I get that in one block.
Nice.
Maria, do you want to come with me
- and get a peanut ice cream?
- Oh, yes.
Back across the street.
This is like this little corner of
other Europe in Lisbon.
Every species flourishes
when we cross-pollinate.
So, here I'm seeing a cross-pollination
of hot dogs and gelato.
And Alessandro's pizza!
Now it's a party!
- It's a block party.
- Ciao! You want a pizza?
And all the neighbors love it
because it makes this place better.
You gotta love immigrants.
- Mozzarella!
- Oh, God.
- Mozzarella!
- Mozzarella!
And now a little trip to the suburbs.
So, today we went to Sintra.
Sintra, I know, sounds like the name
of a location in a romance novel.
Welcome to Sintra.
But it's not really all that romantic.
I mean,
unless this is your idea of romantic.
You know, my wife and I were looking
for a second home possibly.
Where's Princess Jasmine?
I didn't find Jasmine here
at Palácio Pena,
but I did find Henrique Sá Pessoa,
whose restaurant, Alma,
is one of the best in all of Portugal.
Henrique grew up in a nearby town,
and he knows this place
like the back of his hand.
So, I remember as a kid,
coming over here a lot
with my father on the weekend.
- It looks like a kid would love it here.
- Yeah, yeah.
I had a grandmother like that.
That was her face all the time.
- Wow.
- That's a 360-view.
Wow!
Oh, my goodness!
A little windy today.
Whoa! I'm getting vertigo!
Hold on, people!
See, here's like a little lookout.
But why wouldn't they have,
like, one more window?
Like, don't you want to see
if somebody's coming right there?
You would.
Sorry, you're dead, King.
He came from here.
Now we go for pastry, yes?
Have you had a custard tart yet?
- The pastel? Yes.
- Yeah, you had it already.
Every day.
I have it, oh, yeah,
like two, three, every day.
My pants hurt.
Just down the hill
in the town of Sintra
is one of Henrique's favorite shops,
Piriquita.
They make a lot of different pastries
at Piriquita,
but people come from far and wide
for the hard to pronounce one.
Travesseiros.
Travesseiros.
It almost sounds Slavic, doesn't it?
It sounds like I'm speaking Yugoslavian.
What's the connection?
There is no connection.
It just sounds that way.
Just like there are certain American words
that sound Yiddish, like LaserDisc.
These are puff pastries
filled with almond cream and served warm.
Travesseiros means "pillows"
in Portuguese,
and I'm having all the ones on my bed
switched to these.
How good is that?
It's fantastic!
Are you the owner?
I am the wife of the boss.
- The wife of the owner.
- The boss. Yes.
I'm Phil.
I love your pastries.
- Thank you very much.
- Very nice.
And very nice people here too.
Chocolate.
- I heard you're a chocolate maniac.
- I'm a chocolate freak.
What is that?
Can we taste one?
- Yeah, one. We can share, right?
- Yeah, yeah.
So how come you like chocolate so much?
I'm a human being!
Why do I like chocolate?
I don't know.
Why be alive if you can't have chocolate?
Now I get to see what Henrique
does for a living, right?
He's not just a castle tour guide.
He has a one-star Michelin restaurant
in the middle of the city.
Alma means "soul."
I'm gonna feed my alma.
- To your alma!
- Here we go.
- To your alma!
- Thanks for coming, Phil.
Thank you, my friend.
And I went there with Duarte,
who's Miguel's partner in food blogging.
Miguel and Duarte helped make
the Lisbon food scene what it is
and popularized it.
And maybe we're here because of them,
because I was reading stuff about Lisbon
and how it's the up-and-coming
food city of the world.
People, when they arrive in Lisbon,
it's like, "Wow," you know?
- It's such a surprise that everything
- The city is undeniable.
- Yeah.
- You can't deny
that it's a really easy place
to fall in love with.
- Yeah, I know.
- It has such a beautiful spirit,
even down to the sidewalks, right?
Everything looks great,
the people, the food.
Wow.
So this was the one I was
telling you about, the cobble street cod.
Oh.
So this is like a
tribute to, um to Lisbon.
You know what's funny?
I just took this picture today.
Of the cobble streets?
- There you go!
- How funny is that?
- Yeah.
- I mean exact!
- Yeah. You know that
- And I didn't have to take that pattern!
We're connected!
- That was the inspiration.
- Yes.
And underneath is the most famous
Portuguese bacalhau dish,
which is bacalhau à bras.
So the idea now, I'm gonna show you,
- is you break it in.
- I watch.
Oh, with the egg!
And you mix it with tartar.
You ruined the whole thing.
What did you do?
- You break the cobble street.
- Why did you
- Now I have to all right.
- Then you mix it all in.
I guess I'm gonna do like chef.
Get in there.
Oh, I saved the best for last.
I know you're a chocolate fan,
so I had to give you some chocolate.
- You like hazelnut I presume.
- I like everything.
And you like salted caramel?
- Oh, my God.
- So the three of them in one dessert.
My wife is going to be jealous.
She sees these movies, and she's like
"You can never complain about anything!"
- We have to leave you.
- This is
Oh.
- Am I doing it right?
- Yep.
Oh! Oh.
Hello.
Yes.
We're supposed to share these, right?
What do you have?
- Oh, sardines.
- Sardines.
Should we open one?
Should we open one and see?
- No.
- No, don't bother.
- All right.
- You're gonna get olive oil
all over the place.
Well, we're gonna live dangerously.
What you do think?
You know I like to show you
what I'm eating
because I know you worry
that I don't eat enough.
Right?
Yeah, I'm really worried about that.
I swear, this would be a lunch.
You just eat it right out of the can.
Yeah.
- It's dripping.
- Without
Oy!
Someone call 911!
It's dripping!
Without bread?
Without bread, I do it.
What's going on in New York?
How's the weather there today?
- It's cold.
- It's
How do you know? You never go out.
- You didn't go out. It's not that cold.
- I opened a window.
You don't even open the window.
- Anyway
- It sounds very exciting over there.
It is. It's very exciting.
"Today, we opened the window."
- It's fine.
- All right.
All right.
I'm glad you made your bed for the people.
- Oh, you can see it?
- Yeah, of course.
Just now you're noticing
that we can see it?
Oh, I didn't know that.
They can see that far?
I learned an important word
here today: saudade.
It's a Portuguese feeling
that seems to be part
of the national character.
It means longing
or or a certain beautiful sadness.
You know, I related to it,
because I think where I'm from,
that's called depression.
They listen to music that makes them
have this feeling. It's called "fado."
Fado is a whole school of music.
I guess you would call it
the Portuguese blues.
Ivo thought
I should experience fado before I left,
so he invited me out
with his friend Rute.
Fado means "bad destiny,"
and this one, in particular,
speaks about a relationship that ends,
and he compares it
with a sea and the river.
The relationship
between the river and the sea.
And when it has salt, he floats,
when the salt is gone, he sinks.
- Really?
- Yeah, like a metaphor.
That's very depressing.
We live near the ocean.
We are fishermen
and we went to discover the world.
They were missing someone
that probably they will never see again.
So for hundreds of years,
that feeling perpetuated
because there's always someone leaving.
- Going away, yeah.
- Yes.
You don't have to feel sadness,
you feel that you miss someone
- Yeah.
- but in a happy way.
- Really?
- It's good to miss someone.
It's wrong to not miss nobody, isn't it?
That must be why my wife
tells me to go do this show.
- Go out!
- Exactly! She wants to miss you!
Yes. "Let me miss you," she says. Go out!
And at one point, I asked,
"Do they know any fast ones?"
Sing, Phil, sing.
What am I singing?
I'm not the kind of guy who joins in
with the singing in the club.
It's like, "You people do what you do.
I'll be here listening."
But there, I have to say,
there was an infectious spirit,
and I was sitting with Ivo and Rute,
and they were into it, and so it was hard
for me not to get into it.
Sometimes, you have to let yourself
get into it.
So the moral of our story today?
Jump in, people!
Go someplace on a hunch.
Off the beaten path.
Someplace you don't know a ton about.
Explore.
Meet people.
Taste a lot of nice food.
Walk the streets.
Sing along even.
And if you're really lucky,
you might end up in Lisbon.
So come sit at his table ♪
If you're happy, hungry
Willing, and able ♪
To see how breaking bread ♪
Can turn a stranger
Right into a friend ♪
He will drive to you ♪
He will fly to you ♪
He will sing for you ♪
And he'll dance for you ♪
He will laugh with you ♪
And he'll cry for you ♪
There's just one thing
He asks in return ♪
Somebody feed, somebody feed ♪
Can somebody ♪
Somebody feed Phil? ♪
Oh, please, somebody ♪
Somebody feed Phil ♪
Somebody feed him now ♪
Oh, hello!
- How are you?
- Can you see us?
- I see you very well.
- Yes. You look good, Phillip.
I do?
Yes, you look very good.
I think traveling traveling suits you.
- I think Portugal agrees with me.
- It agrees with me too. I love it.
- Beautiful city.
- It is. It's beautiful.
I don't think enough people know about it.
- I agree.
- They don't advertise,
but people go to they
When they come, they go to Spain
rather than Lisbon.
Lisbon, nobody
Uh, very few people heard of it,
so they don't go.
That's not true, Max.
What are you talking about?
Yes! They don't advertise
like they do in Spain.
- Maybe you're the ad for Portugal.
- Right.
This is Max Rosenthal for Portugal.
What are you going to Spain for?
Why don't you try Lisbon?
A happy, hungry man ♪
Is traveling
All across the sea and the land ♪
He's trying to understand ♪
The art of pasta, pork
Chicken, and lamb ♪
He will drive to you ♪
He will fly to you ♪
He will sing for you ♪
And he'll dance for you ♪
He will laugh with you ♪
And he'll cry for you ♪
There's just one thing
He asks in return ♪
Somebody feed, somebody feed ♪
Can somebody ♪
Somebody feed Phil? ♪
Somebody feed him now ♪
Lisbon. I don't know that it's
the first city you think of when you say,
"I gotta I want to travel.
I don't even want to travel to Europe.
I'm going to Lisbon."
There's lots of other cities
that come up first in your head, right?
Lisbon is centuries older
than London, Paris, or Rome,
and it's closer to Africa
than it is to most of the rest of Europe.
I love it's on the water,
it's on the beautiful river
that opens out onto the Atlantic.
Many explorers sailed from here.
Vasco da Gama, Magellan, right?
Uh If you talk to my mother,
Helen Rosenthal sailed from here
after World War II.
Since I don't really know
that much about Lisbon,
this one's gonna be
about the joy of discovery,
and that's one of the best things
about traveling anyway.
The first thing I want to discover
is one of the things Lisbon
is most famous for: pastries.
And the most famous pastry is this.
It's amazing what you can do with eggs,
cream, cinnamon, and a lot of butter.
So this is the most famous thing
in Portugal, right? In Lisbon?
Yeah, yeah, it's the most famous,
and we produce the best ones.
I want to say it right. Pastéis de nata.
Yes. Pastéis.
- Did I say it right?
- That's plural.
- Plural?
- In singular, you say "pastel de nata."
- Pastel de nata.
- That's it.
Okay, so I'm gonna start with a pastel,
and we'll see if I'm gonna have pastéis.
- You're supposed to have it with coffee?
- Yes.
Do you make a macchiato?
- Macchiato.
- Double macchiato.
Double macchiato. Okay.
Thank you.
So I'm gonna serve you a hot one.
- Yeah!
- It's warm.
I've never had it.
It's really good
with cinnamon and sugar on top.
I do it.
- Yeah.
- Come on.
- You can add more. We
- Yeah?
- Yeah, yeah, let me do it for you.
- You do it.
The Portuguese way.
Like this and like this.
I'm excited!
- You can taste it.
- Okay.
Macchiato.
You know those Chinese egg custard
tarts that you get in the restaurants?
What if they were
really, really, really good?
This is just a
like warm, creamy, delicious
in a flaky thing
with cinnamon and sugar on top.
- It's gonna be pastéis.
- I knew it.
But there's more than pastéis
at this place,
so luckily the market's curator
is here to help me navigate
both the food and the language.
João!
- Exactly.
- I said it right.
- You said it perfectly. João.
- João.
- João.
- That's close enough.
There's a "oão" a "oão"
that you have in Portuguese
- that I haven't heard anywhere else. Yes?
- No other language. Yes.
There's a "oão" sound. "Oão."
This is a sound we don't have, right?
Unless it's, uh you're imitating
the Charlie Brown, uh, teacher.
Wah, wah.
And you should.
João was the editor
of Time Out Lisbon.
He thought if he could curate
a marketplace
that was like a permanent food festival,
maybe that would be successful.
And it seems to have worked.
This is a collection
of Lisbon's greatest food hits.
- Cod cake.
- Cod cake?
Yeah.
Cod is like the main national dish.
That's fantastic.
Now what?
The Asian beef with foie gras on the top.
Ooh.
Wow!
You're smiling like I'm smiling.
So here's a place,
all they do is sell canned fish.
Why would I
Why is that a stop on the tour?
My grandfather was the guy
that started this business.
- Of canning sardines?
- Yeah.
Sardines, mackerel, octopus, squid,
uh, codfish, horse mackerel, tuna.
- Who's the lady on the can?
- I don't know.
I like to think it's kind of
a Sophia Loren look-alike.
If you squint a little bit.
When we eat canned food in America,
it's out of convenience.
In Portugal,
they've elevated this to an art form.
And the Oh, look how beau
Look at the color!
And they also make great souvenirs.
Mmm!
- Yes!
- Kind of good, right?
- Muita bom.
- Muito bom.
Did I say it right?
- Almost.
- Almost.
That's the tuna thing, the belly.
It's really smooth in your mouth.
That's my favorite so far!
It tastes super fresh.
Super fresh.
Everything I tried was terrific.
It's my favorite thing to do, is to taste
little tastes of different things.
What's this one?
That's the horse mackerel
with the garlic and the parsley.
Isn't that good?
You can taste the horse.
- You can taste the horse.
- No.
This is fantastic.
First thing I noticed when I came,
and this is maybe just me,
when I'm walking, I look down a lot,
mainly because
I don't want to step in anything.
I think you know what I'm saying.
The sidewalk is a sidewalk,
but in Lisbon, the sidewalks
are these beautiful limestone mosaics.
It's absolutely gorgeous.
What does it say about a place,
where the thing underfoot
is beautiful as well, right?
And then you look up.
The tiles are on the building,
beautiful ceramics,
beautiful tiles.
And I fell in love kind of immediately.
I think it's important
to get an overview
of wherever you are in the world, right?
How long have you worked here?
- Two months.
- Yeah, you like it?
- Yes.
- It has its ups and downs.
Sorry?
- It has its ups and downs.
- Yes.
That's my elevator joke.
Oh, now you're talking!
Lisbon.
It might be time to eat something.
Chef and food genius José Avillez
is one big reason Lisbon has become one
of the hottest culinary cities in Europe.
And his Belcanto is the first two-star
Michelin restaurant in all of Portugal.
- Hello!
- Reservation?
Am I supposed to push the button?
Is that how it works?
- Welcome to our kitchen.
- Oh.
Here is where everything happens.
- I'm getting sneak previews! Yes.
- Heading to the chef's table.
- Wow, wow!
- At present, it's crowded.
- You will eat here.
- Really?
This is a table that we prepared for you.
- Really?
- We'll help you.
- Get in, please.
- Thank you.
I have the best job.
And I have the best seat:
the chef's table, with the chef,
in the kitchen.
Belcanto comes
from the name of an opera.
Yeah.
Because we are just
across the square from the opera house,
- opera theater here, São Carlos.
- Ah, yeah.
Growing up, my mother used to play
opera in the house.
Here's one I can actually enjoy.
Wow.
It's dinner and a show.
What we have now as Portuguese cuisine
is completely different
than 500 years ago.
But what I say is,
even tradition, it's evolution.
- Right.
- But the soul is completely Portuguese.
Come on, look how pretty.
The ashes,
they are smoked with rosemary.
We do a butter
made of the interior of the head.
Mmm.
Wow.
Act two.
We call it the Garden of the Goose
That Laid the Golden Egg.
So it's an egg, cooked at low temperature,
covered with a golden leaf,
edible golden leaf.
- Please, Phil.
- It looks amazing.
With cheese from São Jorge's, mushrooms,
hazelnut, green truffle,
and crunchy bread.
Mmm. Wow.
Mmm.
- This melts in your mouth.
- Yes, it does!
This is an incredible, incredible dish.
When Monica asks me,
"How do you like your eggs?"
I'm gonna say, "Covered in gold
with black truffles, please."
What's amazing about Belcanto is:
yes, it's pretty,
yes, it looks like works of art
but then, it's delicious.
So we have here the mandarin dessert.
A crumble made of mushrooms.
Wow.
You would never know that's mushroom.
- You can crack.
- Yes?
Like this and
Oh, look at that. Oh.
The sorbet
is filled with mandarin spume.
For me, I think it's a great way
to round out a meal.
It's fantastic.
Chef.
Standing ovation.
And now it's time
for a little sightseeing.
Somebody told me this was a good idea.
Playing Batman to my useless Robin
is Daniel Coelho,
a guide whose sidecar tours
turn Lisbon into a full-body workout.
You feel like you're in a tin can,
uh, bopping up and down the road,
cobblestone streets sometimes. Uh
It's okay, I don't need
those last two vertebrae.
You feel the history.
This is shaking loose my fillings.
Ah, nice!
And then, we invented pavement.
People look at us,
they stare at us, they wave at us.
- That happens to me every day anyway.
- Every day?
But now I look extra sexy!
Very low off the ground,
but it's an amazing 360-degree view
of everything.
Especially when you go down
the narrow streets, you really get it.
Gonna go down the coast over here.
There's always a very cool view.
- Wow.
- Lisbon is all about the details.
There's a couple of big dates we have
to remember in the Lisbon history.
- 1755, the earthquake.
- The big earthquake.
It will change everything.
The course of Lisbon history,
Portuguese history, everything.
Then we have, right in front of us,
the Marquis of Pombal.
So when they are rebuilding Lisbon,
it is due to him,
to his vision, that Lisbon looks like
what it looks like today.
- The designer as the hero.
- Exactly.
He's overlooking his achievements.
Time for a little break,
especially since
I can't feel my legs anymore.
The sardine emerges from his can.
You think they have a chiropractor
in there?
So I'll have, uh, two pastéis
and one, uh, macchiato take-away.
Ah, it's very nice.
- Ah.
- Oh, perfect.
People stop and stare.
They don't bother me.
The guys told me, "You got to eat
at this place and it's across the river."
The first thing you notice
is what a huge, wide river.
The setting of this restaurant
is so magical.
You're on this little
I guess, you can't even call it a pier,
because it's just
It juts out, it's a concrete thing,
and they've set up tables
out in the middle,
with no railing.
I mean, if I move my chair or if I forget
and have one glass of wine too many,
which, for me, is one glass of wine,
I take a step to the right,
I'm off the edge and into the water.
I didn't have anyone
to share this view with.
Except my friend, Ivo.
Ivo! Are you hungry?
- Very much.
- I'm glad.
Ivo works on the crew here.
He's great.
He even picked me up from the airport,
and so, I love him.
- Famous, this restaurant.
- It is?
- Small, but everybody comes here.
- What's it called? Ponto Final?
- Ponto Final means "full stop."
- I'm gonna full stop right here,
because if I go, I'm serious,
six inches and I am in the water.
So I asked how many people have fallen in.
Nobody. Why?
Because when people don't see
a guardrail, they're extra careful.
Something to think about.
Ah!
- Prawns.
- Look at that!
What's wrong with this? Nothing!
Mmm.
- A little spicy.
- Is it?
- You like spicy, eh?
- I love it!
- Hello!
- Sardines!
Grilled sardines, my favorite fish.
And Lisbon is sardine-crazy.
You know what we do?
- Yeah? Tell me.
- We get a slice of bread.
- Yeah.
- And then we put the sardine on top.
And at the end,
the slice of bread is filled with grease,
and then you eat the bread
and it's delicious.
What's happening now?
We don't have room for anything.
Something has to go in the river.
It was this gorgeous stew of monkfish
and rice and tomato sauce.
- Wow, that's good!
- Yes, the rice is very good.
This is Did you have this?
This is awesome!
I love this place.
I fell in love with Ivo.
We bonded over something on his arm.
- Bruce Springsteen! Look at his arm.
- He's the greatest.
I'm very proud of your tattoo.
If I was going to get a tattoo,
which I'm not
- You're too old.
- it might be that.
And I'm too old for tattoos, as well.
I pretend I'm not old.
As you get older, he will get older.
You think that where you sit
- affects how the food tastes?
- I think so. Yeah.
We were talking the other day
about the music in restaurants,
everything is important.
- I hate when the music is too loud.
- Yeah.
This is the perfect soundtrack for eating.
Yeah.
- Yeah.
- You just hear
They're a little loud, but
but the water
This is all you need.
You know what we have to do someday?
We have to go to Springsteen together.
- That would be beautiful.
- He's my favorite.
- To Bruce!
- To Bruce. To the boss.
Just west of the city center,
and a great place for a walk,
is the neighborhood of Belém.
And now that I'm a pastéis junkie,
I can't leave Lisbon
without trying the most famous ones.
It's packed!
There's a lot of pastéis lovers.
Now I'm here by myself and I really
would like to sit with people,
but, you know, it's awkward sometimes.
Then again, sometimes you have to make
that little leap.
What if I sit with you
and have a pastéis for one minute,
and then I leave you alone?
Hi, I'm Phil.
- I'm Rocío.
- Rocío.
Where you come from?
- I'm from America.
- America!
Where do you come from? Spain?
Spain.
- Madrid.
- Madrid!
- Where are they?
- Where are the things?
Oh!
- Belém! Belém! Belém!
- All right. I have a plate here.
Bravo! Bravo!
So I had one yesterday. The first time
I had one is in the Time Out Market.
So now I have to compare
because this is the most famous, right?
Nice. All right, here we go.
Hold on.
- Mmm!
- Mmm!
Delicious!
It's good.
It's very good.
A little bit crispier
than the ones I had in town.
They're both phenomenal.
I'm not declaring a winner.
I love them both. I need both.
Could you say who is the girlfriend
or the boyfriend?
You want me to pick who is
- Who goes with who?
- Yes.
- Play.
- Okay, these two go together.
Yeah?
- I guessed it right away.
- Yeah, it's perfect.
I like you two together,
I think that's very good.
- You
- No.
No, wait, I'm saving you.
You with him?
- Nice!
- No, no, no.
You also with him.
Yeah.
The three!
You You You with her?
- No.
- No.
You with her?
Me with her!
Okay, now tell me the truth.
Who's with who?
I got it all wrong, right?
I got everything wrong.
- This is my wife.
- This is your wife!
Very sorry. I didn't mean anything.
Very sweet couple.
- And you?
- This is my love.
Aw!
"This is my love."
I like how she says it,
"This is my love."
And you are with who?
With him!
Isn't that interesting, you all sit
very far away from each other.
I know how it works. I know how it works.
Here's what I've learned: food is what connects us,
and laughs are the cement.
- Thank you.
- Thank you.
- This is the best coffee shop. Wow.
- Thank you very much.
This is the most action I've had
in a long time.
I don't want to say, "Lisbon is like,"
because that would be to minimize it.
You know, like people call me
"the handsome Ryan Gosling."
I don't think that's fair to me.
But still, I can't help but think
there's something very familiar
about Lisbon.
Maybe because they were
a nation of explorers,
you can see influences
from all around the world.
To me, it feels most like San Francisco,
with the hills and the trolley cars,
and the bay and the bridge
that looks like the Golden Gate even.
But it's also got cafés like Paris,
piazzas like Rome.
They've even got a massive stone statue
of Jesus like Rio De Janeiro.
But Lisbon is not only home
to a Jesus made of stone.
Today, I'm going to meet
a real flesh and blood Jesus.
This is Jesus of Goa.
Ah!
- Are you Jesus?
- Yes, Phil, how are you?
- I am only Phil.
- Right. Good.
This is my "Come to Jesus" moment.
My mother's Catholic 100 percent,
that's why she baptized me
by the name of Jesus.
- Really?
- Jesus Lee together.
Father's a big fan of Bruce Lee,
- so they joined together.
- You're kidding me!
- Is that true? Really?
- It's true.
And the restaurant is Jesus é
- É Goês.
- Goês.
"Goês" means "From Goa."
- Jesus from Goa.
- Goa. Yeah.
Goa was an ex-colony of Portugal.
Portuguese were ruling Goa for 500 years.
- Really?
- The food, we call it "Indo-Portuguese."
It's a symbiosis.
It's a mixture of Indian
and Portuguese food.
The Portuguese brought potatoes,
hot peppers, and more to Goa.
Indian food today would be very different
without their influence.
Um
You will go crazy with it,
that's what I can say.
Because my name is Jesus and I make
miracles, so I'll make you crazy tonight.
Listen, making me crazy
is no miracle, Jesus.
Let's start with this.
In India we say, bread, we use our hands.
- You use your hands, yes.
- So you gotta do this.
Yes.
Ah.
- And you do it like a taco. Yeah?
- Ah.
Try. Try. Come on.
A beautiful yellow curry.
It's saffron.
- And you made the bread too?
- Yep.
I've never had this food!
Whenever I eat this, I'm back in Goa.
Turns out, when he was a kid,
Jesus came to Lisbon
and started working,
and just trained himself to be a chef.
- You didn't study?
- No.
Study is day by day life.
That's the best school.
You gotta love this guy.
- What's your name?
- Filipa.
- Filipa!
- Filipa.
- You know what my name is?
- Phil.
- India.
- Yes, it is a Goan restaurant.
And yes, this Jesus
even makes his own wine.
I gave the name to this wine.
By the name of Jesus, it should be called
"Blood of My Blood," yeah?
Maybe you're taking this a little too far.
- You're gonna enjoy what's next.
- Okay.
It's called the Holy Burger.
- Holy burger?
- Yeah.
Wow. Thank you!
This looks like a one-bite.
This is your communion wafer.
The meat is marinated
with fresh coriander
- Thank you.
- green chilies, garlic,
ginger, cinnamon, cloves some tamarind.
So you're gonna feel like you're having
a boxing fight in your mouth.
You gotta do it at once.
- Okay?
- Together?
- Yeah.
- Ready?
- One
- Two, three.
Mmm.
- Can you feel the flavors in it?
- It's not boxing.
They're making sexy time.
That's very That's the best.
I'm gonna start saying that now.
Next, more Portuguese
meets Indian food: shrimp samosas.
In India, they normally make
only the vegetarian samosas,
and in Goa, they only make meat samosas,
but I came to Portugal,
and I make samosas of shrimps,
- squids, octopus, sardines.
- Oh.
Wow.
You could have a stand
that just sells different samosas.
I can't believe I'm saying this,
but thank you, Jesus.
What comes next for you?
What are you gonna do?
Do you want to make another restaurant?
- No, no.
- Do you want You love this.
I cannot be
They say Jesus is everywhere,
but I cannot be everywhere.
I can be only in one place.
I don't want to leave this place,
I love it.
- Can I get an "amen" somebody?
- Amen.
Next is one thing
Portugal is famous for
that I honestly know
next to nothing about.
So, I meet up with Célia Pedroso,
food writer,
and she gives food tours of Lisbon.
She gave me a mini tour
of a wonderful place
that does charcuterie
and cheese and
port.
I don't know a lot about port.
But my wife loves it.
- How old?
- Ten years.
- Ten years old, and this is a tawny?
- Tawny, ten years old, yes.
So tawny means aged.
- Tawny is the color.
- Color.
- Just the color or
- The color is more gold color,
not so dark.
- The color is totally different here.
- Yes, yes.
Here's the difference, people.
Tawny, ruby.
We're learning about port today.
- I'm very happy. Here you go.
- Thank you.
I was in a store in America,
and the man said, "You buy this port
and you save it
for your 50th wedding anniversary.
Put it away, save it."
I told my wife I got this port,
and two weeks later I come home,
her and her girlfriend
have drunk the whole bottle.
I said, "This was for our anniversary!"
She said, "Oh, I forgot!"
She drank the whole thing
with her friend over some potato chips.
Remember if it was a ruby or a tawny?
It was expensive, that's what I remember!
- Cheers. Saúde.
- Saúde.
You drink more? A little?
No, I shouldn't. I shouldn't. I sh
- Little bit.
- All right.
Drink.
Port is fortified wine,
meaning they add a bit of alcohol
to stop fermentation,
which is what makes it
sweeter than wine,
and also a little more powerful.
So have you decided which one
do you prefer, the tawny or the ruby?
They both have nice qualities.
Mm-hmm.
Tawny, ruby.
Happy!
But I'm starting to feel it.
So now I'm going to dance a little.
Uh, I'm not kidding either, by the way.
Like, enough. Enough for Daddy!
But Célia says I have to try
one more local favorite.
You know, if I didn't know better,
I'd say she's trying to get me tipsy.
- Here's the ginja store.
- Exactly.
Well, I'm already drunk, so let's go.
- Bom dia.
- Bom dia.
Senhor Abílio
has been working here since 1973.
Since '72, 1972.
What's a year or two?
What they serve here
is a sour cherry liqueur called "ginja."
Lisboans love it.
They drink it before dinner, after dinner,
after lunch, after port.
Apparently,
no hour is off-limits for ginja.
I love a place
that's dedicated to one thing.
The sour cherries
are sitting in the bottom.
Oh, it's delicious.
Delicioso.
- You like it?
- Yes!
- You come all the time?
- Yes.
- Every day?
- Yes.
I need my ginjinha!
- Saúde.
- Saúde.
- Saúde.
- Saúde.
- Saúde.
- Saúde.
Careful. Careful, dear, you're spilling.
We need to get it inside, not outside.
- She's saying, "No waste!"
- No waste. No.
You know, this one is stronger
in alcohol than port wine.
This one is 23-and-a-half percent alcohol.
I better stop
because I already feel the port.
So now I'm like, "Ooh, ooh, ooh."
You better drink some of this.
I think I need to buy a bottle.
My wife will be very happy with me
that I bring her alcohol.
Maybe if she's drinking this,
she'll lay off the port.
And now I need to go lay down.
How does a place
get its hooks in you?
Well, how it looks,
how it feels to walk around,
how are the people, how's the food?
And after a while,
does this ever happen to you?
I could maybe live here.
My favorite kind of restaurant is Ramiro.
Casual with amazing food.
This happens to be seafood, a celebration
of what's all around you in this town,
which is the water.
I meet Lisbon food journalist
Miguel Pires here,
along with our producer, Abbie,
and our production manager, Andrew.
Andrew and Abbie.
- Yes.
- Yeah.
I couldn't have my kids here with me,
so
I wanted to bring them
because I feel a little bad for the crew
because here's pig-o eating everything
and everybody's just, you know, hard,
and I I
It's only good if you can share it, right?
Is this your favorite seafood place
in Lisbon?
- Definitely.
- Definitely!
I would say in Portugal.
- Or I can say in the world
- In the world?
But I've never been
all over the world so
The world that I know.
- Oh, boy.
- Oh, my goodness.
What?!
Beautiful.
It's gorgeous.
And this is maybe
more strange for you?
- Never saw that.
- This is very hard to get.
Not everyone is as happy
about dinner as we are.
They're like a monster.
They're always like this.
- He knows what you're planning.
- Yes.
Look at his face.
Turn it to the camera right there.
"This is a terrible restaurant.
I wouldn't eat here if I were you."
"Choose the turkey!"
- Here you go.
- "You know what's good? Ham."
They showed us, I don't know,
six kinds of shrimp.
Yes! Looky!
Whoa!
Oh, boy. Holy moly!
One was more delicious than the next.
These pale ones, these
The small ones that you just
you could eat,
because the shells were so soft,
you could just crunch them just with salt,
just steamed or boiled, salt. That's it.
This is amazing! This is amazing!
And it keeps on coming, doesn't it?
It just keeps on coming.
And then the carabinero.
Ruby red giant prawns.
Eighty percent of the taste
is in the head.
You want to show us how to do it?
- Oh, my God.
- I don't know if I can do that.
You became a caveman.
- You are a caveman.
- But you're cute doing it.
That is incredible!
I told you.
It's like God made seafood soup.
You're welcome.
Wow, this makes me happy.
- Yeah?
- Yeah.
This is the dessert in Ramiro.
Oh, dessert is a steak sandwich.
Yes, my kind of place!
They give you a jar of mustard.
They give you some piri piri sauce,
the spicy sauce. Come on!
After you eat all the shellfish,
you need sometimes something more too.
So let's bring the dessert
that is the steak on bread.
We call this "Prego."
We break things all the time.
It's good? It's good? Good dessert?
- Cheers!
- Cheers!
Cheers!
Lisbon is a great city for walking.
If you're in shape.
Some of the hills will kill you.
Bom dia.
Thank God for modern technology.
This tram saved me from a heart attack.
They call it the tram, number 28!
Number 28 takes you on some main streets,
but also these tiny, tiny
And when I say "tiny side streets,"
I mean, there's barely enough room
for the cable car.
I mean, you can put your hand
out the window and touch the buildings.
It's almost like a ride,
like a Disney ride,
where you're going through dioramas.
Here's the barbershop.
Here's the deli.
Here's the coffee shop.
Here's the art gallery.
Here's the bakery. Here's another bakery.
Here's another bakery.
Here's another bakery.
Have I mentioned the bakeries?
And now a lesson
in what makes a great neighborhood.
Great people!
And these people happen to have brought
what they do best to a new land,
have made it great for them
and fantastic for everybody else here.
Ciao! How are you?
- I'm happy to meet you, Phil.
- Oh, thank you. Thank you.
This beautiful Italian lady,
Costanza, moved here from Rome.
Sérgio, who's just from down the block,
works behind the counter.
He's a pip.
Today, the cheesecake is made
with raspberries and strawberries.
- Yes. Yes.
- Raspberry-strawberry cheesecake.
- Oh.
- Oh.
He sees light, you know,
he sees the light.
It's damn good.
I mean, it is like Florence, Italy good.
Who are you?
- Alessandro!
- Alessandro.
Alessandro! Phil!
- You speak English?
- A little bit.
I no speak English.
And here comes Alessandro
from the pizza place next door.
He is my man from
for pizza, you know.
- Ice cream and pizza, too.
- Ah!
And dance!
And dance, because we are
Italian and we like dancing.
- Okay.
- It's like a sitcom all of a sudden.
- One moment
- Yeah.
All right. Look at
Wait a second.
Lisbon, land of opportunity
for the other countries around the world.
Oh, the pizza!
Whoo!
- Wow.
- Directly from Rome!
He's You are also from Rome?
- Rome. Rome.
- Obviously.
- They are all from Rome!
- You should try this.
So this is a cultural exchange program
here in Lisbon?
Yes.
Very crunchy and delicious.
- I'm so happy!
- Here we are a family.
You thought to be in Lisbon,
but now you are in Rome.
Isn't that great?
Would you like some gelato? I buy for you.
- Ah, yes. Okay.
- Okay.
- Tell her what flavor you like.
- Manga.
- Small cone. Look.
- I tasted Oh, yeah, that's cute.
- Cute like you.
- Kid-size.
- It's a good size.
- No, kid-size.
- Kid-size?
- Yeah. He's a kid.
- Well, he looks like a kid.
- I very, very small.
Yes, you are. You're kind of tiny.
- My friend, now it's okay!
- Yes.
- Now he's taller than you.
- I'm taller.
It's like Roberto Benigni exploded.
Look what your ice cream does to a person.
- Yes, yes, yes.
- To you, my friend.
To my friend.
- Beautiful.
- Beautiful.
Mmm.
Like you take a mango and
Yes.
They said, "You know,
you gotta meet Maria
across the street because
she makes the best sausages in town."
I'm like, "What do you mean?"
I'm in love with her, you know,
but she don't
- She don't like you? No?
- No, she don't like me.
Sérgio, he was telling me
you have the best sausages
in all of Lisbon. Yes.
But you also came from somewhere else.
I did. I am from Austria.
Yeah.
And why Lisbon for you?
Um
We've been here
So, I came with my boyfriend,
and we've been here various times
- on holiday. I'm sorry.
- Boyfriend. I'm sorry.
- But I still like your ice cream.
- Yeah.
- Um
- Keep making ice cream, you never know.
Of course. It's the best.
- Does your boyfriend make ice cream?
- No!
- No, he doesn't.
- He was fast to say,
"No. He doesn't do anything."
- I know her boyfriend.
- "He's a bum!"
All right, I want to taste.
So what we've got here is the most
simplest way to eat sausages in Austria.
The frankfurter is the most simplest one,
and the other one is a bit spicy.
If you want, in Austria,
we would just grab them
Hello!
He's everywhere, you know.
He's everywhere.
Wow!
I'm calling the police next time.
She's making incredible,
homemade bratwurst from scratch.
Come on. That's delicious.
This one is
a sausage filled with cheese,
which is my personal favorite.
I'm doing a little mustard
and sauerkraut on this one.
Mmm.
Do you like it?
It's great.
I wouldn't think that you would need
cheese in a sausage, but I guess you do.
Now I have a trip to Italy and Austria
I get that in one block.
Nice.
Maria, do you want to come with me
- and get a peanut ice cream?
- Oh, yes.
Back across the street.
This is like this little corner of
other Europe in Lisbon.
Every species flourishes
when we cross-pollinate.
So, here I'm seeing a cross-pollination
of hot dogs and gelato.
And Alessandro's pizza!
Now it's a party!
- It's a block party.
- Ciao! You want a pizza?
And all the neighbors love it
because it makes this place better.
You gotta love immigrants.
- Mozzarella!
- Oh, God.
- Mozzarella!
- Mozzarella!
And now a little trip to the suburbs.
So, today we went to Sintra.
Sintra, I know, sounds like the name
of a location in a romance novel.
Welcome to Sintra.
But it's not really all that romantic.
I mean,
unless this is your idea of romantic.
You know, my wife and I were looking
for a second home possibly.
Where's Princess Jasmine?
I didn't find Jasmine here
at Palácio Pena,
but I did find Henrique Sá Pessoa,
whose restaurant, Alma,
is one of the best in all of Portugal.
Henrique grew up in a nearby town,
and he knows this place
like the back of his hand.
So, I remember as a kid,
coming over here a lot
with my father on the weekend.
- It looks like a kid would love it here.
- Yeah, yeah.
I had a grandmother like that.
That was her face all the time.
- Wow.
- That's a 360-view.
Wow!
Oh, my goodness!
A little windy today.
Whoa! I'm getting vertigo!
Hold on, people!
See, here's like a little lookout.
But why wouldn't they have,
like, one more window?
Like, don't you want to see
if somebody's coming right there?
You would.
Sorry, you're dead, King.
He came from here.
Now we go for pastry, yes?
Have you had a custard tart yet?
- The pastel? Yes.
- Yeah, you had it already.
Every day.
I have it, oh, yeah,
like two, three, every day.
My pants hurt.
Just down the hill
in the town of Sintra
is one of Henrique's favorite shops,
Piriquita.
They make a lot of different pastries
at Piriquita,
but people come from far and wide
for the hard to pronounce one.
Travesseiros.
Travesseiros.
It almost sounds Slavic, doesn't it?
It sounds like I'm speaking Yugoslavian.
What's the connection?
There is no connection.
It just sounds that way.
Just like there are certain American words
that sound Yiddish, like LaserDisc.
These are puff pastries
filled with almond cream and served warm.
Travesseiros means "pillows"
in Portuguese,
and I'm having all the ones on my bed
switched to these.
How good is that?
It's fantastic!
Are you the owner?
I am the wife of the boss.
- The wife of the owner.
- The boss. Yes.
I'm Phil.
I love your pastries.
- Thank you very much.
- Very nice.
And very nice people here too.
Chocolate.
- I heard you're a chocolate maniac.
- I'm a chocolate freak.
What is that?
Can we taste one?
- Yeah, one. We can share, right?
- Yeah, yeah.
So how come you like chocolate so much?
I'm a human being!
Why do I like chocolate?
I don't know.
Why be alive if you can't have chocolate?
Now I get to see what Henrique
does for a living, right?
He's not just a castle tour guide.
He has a one-star Michelin restaurant
in the middle of the city.
Alma means "soul."
I'm gonna feed my alma.
- To your alma!
- Here we go.
- To your alma!
- Thanks for coming, Phil.
Thank you, my friend.
And I went there with Duarte,
who's Miguel's partner in food blogging.
Miguel and Duarte helped make
the Lisbon food scene what it is
and popularized it.
And maybe we're here because of them,
because I was reading stuff about Lisbon
and how it's the up-and-coming
food city of the world.
People, when they arrive in Lisbon,
it's like, "Wow," you know?
- It's such a surprise that everything
- The city is undeniable.
- Yeah.
- You can't deny
that it's a really easy place
to fall in love with.
- Yeah, I know.
- It has such a beautiful spirit,
even down to the sidewalks, right?
Everything looks great,
the people, the food.
Wow.
So this was the one I was
telling you about, the cobble street cod.
Oh.
So this is like a
tribute to, um to Lisbon.
You know what's funny?
I just took this picture today.
Of the cobble streets?
- There you go!
- How funny is that?
- Yeah.
- I mean exact!
- Yeah. You know that
- And I didn't have to take that pattern!
We're connected!
- That was the inspiration.
- Yes.
And underneath is the most famous
Portuguese bacalhau dish,
which is bacalhau à bras.
So the idea now, I'm gonna show you,
- is you break it in.
- I watch.
Oh, with the egg!
And you mix it with tartar.
You ruined the whole thing.
What did you do?
- You break the cobble street.
- Why did you
- Now I have to all right.
- Then you mix it all in.
I guess I'm gonna do like chef.
Get in there.
Oh, I saved the best for last.
I know you're a chocolate fan,
so I had to give you some chocolate.
- You like hazelnut I presume.
- I like everything.
And you like salted caramel?
- Oh, my God.
- So the three of them in one dessert.
My wife is going to be jealous.
She sees these movies, and she's like
"You can never complain about anything!"
- We have to leave you.
- This is
Oh.
- Am I doing it right?
- Yep.
Oh! Oh.
Hello.
Yes.
We're supposed to share these, right?
What do you have?
- Oh, sardines.
- Sardines.
Should we open one?
Should we open one and see?
- No.
- No, don't bother.
- All right.
- You're gonna get olive oil
all over the place.
Well, we're gonna live dangerously.
What you do think?
You know I like to show you
what I'm eating
because I know you worry
that I don't eat enough.
Right?
Yeah, I'm really worried about that.
I swear, this would be a lunch.
You just eat it right out of the can.
Yeah.
- It's dripping.
- Without
Oy!
Someone call 911!
It's dripping!
Without bread?
Without bread, I do it.
What's going on in New York?
How's the weather there today?
- It's cold.
- It's
How do you know? You never go out.
- You didn't go out. It's not that cold.
- I opened a window.
You don't even open the window.
- Anyway
- It sounds very exciting over there.
It is. It's very exciting.
"Today, we opened the window."
- It's fine.
- All right.
All right.
I'm glad you made your bed for the people.
- Oh, you can see it?
- Yeah, of course.
Just now you're noticing
that we can see it?
Oh, I didn't know that.
They can see that far?
I learned an important word
here today: saudade.
It's a Portuguese feeling
that seems to be part
of the national character.
It means longing
or or a certain beautiful sadness.
You know, I related to it,
because I think where I'm from,
that's called depression.
They listen to music that makes them
have this feeling. It's called "fado."
Fado is a whole school of music.
I guess you would call it
the Portuguese blues.
Ivo thought
I should experience fado before I left,
so he invited me out
with his friend Rute.
Fado means "bad destiny,"
and this one, in particular,
speaks about a relationship that ends,
and he compares it
with a sea and the river.
The relationship
between the river and the sea.
And when it has salt, he floats,
when the salt is gone, he sinks.
- Really?
- Yeah, like a metaphor.
That's very depressing.
We live near the ocean.
We are fishermen
and we went to discover the world.
They were missing someone
that probably they will never see again.
So for hundreds of years,
that feeling perpetuated
because there's always someone leaving.
- Going away, yeah.
- Yes.
You don't have to feel sadness,
you feel that you miss someone
- Yeah.
- but in a happy way.
- Really?
- It's good to miss someone.
It's wrong to not miss nobody, isn't it?
That must be why my wife
tells me to go do this show.
- Go out!
- Exactly! She wants to miss you!
Yes. "Let me miss you," she says. Go out!
And at one point, I asked,
"Do they know any fast ones?"
Sing, Phil, sing.
What am I singing?
I'm not the kind of guy who joins in
with the singing in the club.
It's like, "You people do what you do.
I'll be here listening."
But there, I have to say,
there was an infectious spirit,
and I was sitting with Ivo and Rute,
and they were into it, and so it was hard
for me not to get into it.
Sometimes, you have to let yourself
get into it.
So the moral of our story today?
Jump in, people!
Go someplace on a hunch.
Off the beaten path.
Someplace you don't know a ton about.
Explore.
Meet people.
Taste a lot of nice food.
Walk the streets.
Sing along even.
And if you're really lucky,
you might end up in Lisbon.
So come sit at his table ♪
If you're happy, hungry
Willing, and able ♪
To see how breaking bread ♪
Can turn a stranger
Right into a friend ♪
He will drive to you ♪
He will fly to you ♪
He will sing for you ♪
And he'll dance for you ♪
He will laugh with you ♪
And he'll cry for you ♪
There's just one thing
He asks in return ♪
Somebody feed, somebody feed ♪
Can somebody ♪
Somebody feed Phil? ♪
Oh, please, somebody ♪
Somebody feed Phil ♪
Somebody feed him now ♪