The Chef Show (2019) s01e06 Episode Script

David Chang

1
Workin' with Robert Rodriguez,
-when we went with him,
-Yeah. Uh-huh.
he was talking about doing the
all the keto-friendly cauliflower rice.
Cauliflower pizza, cauliflower rice.
So I've been doing a cauliflower pizza,
cauliflower rice,
and I've been using your roast pork.
-With the salsa verde?
-Yes.
-So, I'll show you how I've been doing it,
- Okay.
and you can give me pointers
if you think I'm doing it right.
And then, we'll do fried rice,
and maybe we'll do cauliflower fried rice.
And then, also, I wanna do, uh,
roast pork from scratch.
Hopefully,
I get it to look as good as that one.
All right.
You wanna start grating that.
I'm gonna show you pork
in all three forms.
What we should've done, like,
if this was, like, a real cooking show,
we would've brought this out
Uh-huh?
pretended that that happened
while we're here.
We don't have to pretend anything.
No, no. This is-- This is real cooking.
This is real--
We'll show-- We'll show everyone
all the steps right now.
Before we fire the cauliflower rice,
I wanna do the
-salsa verde.
-Yes.
I'm gonna show you how I do it,
and you taste it, if I'm doing it right.
I wanna see if you still like
my flavors and everything.
All right.
So, I usually core
and take the seeds out of the jalapeños.
Oh, yeah? Why?
I think
'cause my kids don't like it too spicy,
but I'll leave 'em in the serrano.
- You gotta do a bit of oil, right?
- Yeah.
Do you season at all?
-I haven't-- No.
- You should season it.
- Okay.
- You have to season
every step of the way.
That's the difference between home cooking
and professional cooking.
The heat is opening up the pores, right?
At this moment, is when the--
the seasoning has to go in.
And then, it kinda closes again.
And then, you add more flavor
on top of that.
It's a small difference, you know?
It's a
- If you season--
-It's the 0.1 seconds
between winning and losing, you know?
It really is.
So-- So usually I'll do this
with a little orange juice,
rice wine vinegar.
You can do more than that?
- We could do more, yeah.
- Salt.
Garlic.
Five.
-Cilantro.
- Garlic.
Five. That was six.
Oh, that was six? Okay.
It's gonna be tastier.
-You don't put any mint in there?
-No.
- Any olive oil?
-No.
-Sesame seeds?
- Oh, no. I don't do that.
This is all off my phone.
When you texted it to me once,
whatever, like, five, six years ago.
No pepper, either?
Oh, sorry. Yeah, that's me.
Yeah. Pepper, pepper.
Oh, it looks good.
Mm!
I would go a little more salt,
maybe?
No?
No, I-- I like it. It's good.
I'm a believer.
Leave it alone?
-I'm a Belieber.
- 'Cause, usually, I do. I'll add,
'cause there's a little acidity to it,
so I would add more salt
to fight the acid,
-or no?
-Oh, yeah.
-Yeah, you can.
-Tell me. I want you to tell me.
-Don't be polite. I want your--
-It's delicious. No, it's delicious.
No, what, I--
Truly, I'm a believer right now because
I would've added mirin and more herbs
and more oil, but I like
the simplicity of this one, actually.
And it gets better tomorrow.
Oh, that's good.
This is actually a better sauce than mine.
Shit!
It is your sauce.
I'll-- I'll email it back to you.
-Yeah, email.
- You're fighting your own past, Roy,
-not me.
You're fighting your younger self.
I-- I am.
So, let's make our pork marinade,
then we can work on the pork bellies
over there.
So with this, the ingredients that I--
I-- From your book
- Uh-huh?
-It's just, uh, onion, garlic,
-gochujang, green onion,
- Okay.
and, uh, jalapeño.
This is a little bit
of a more complex one.
-Okay.
-You wanna add all this.
- Everything.
- Pre-measured.
So, this looks like, what?
Like, about one onion?
You want all this ga--
That's like ten ten cloves.
It's all measured.
Just put it all in here.
Soy? Yeah, this is different
than what I've been doin'.
Ginger, that ain't in there.
Green onion.
Jalapeño, seeds in. Orange juice.
- Yeah, everything.
- Sesame oil.
Sure.
Ga--
Hey, Roy, you got garlic--
full cloves of garlic,
and then you also have chopped garlic.
- Throw it in.
-Yep. All right.
Why not?
This goin' in too?
-Sure. Why not?
-What is it?
That's the previous marinade that we made.
-So you get the-- Like the mother.
-It's like a starter.
-Mother.
-It's okay.
Let's give it a taste. You wanna just--
-That's nice. Yeah.
-Oh, I like the sesame in there.
So, we have finished,
cured,
which will get the lather,
and then we have the raw.
Why don't you season first.
And then, we'll go to marinade
Here's how I season at home.
You tell me how I'm doing.
So, I'll do, like, the day--
I'll even do it a day before.
-Mm-hmm.
-In the book, you say three hours before,
-but I'll do a day before.
-Yeah, that's fine.
Especially with the, uh
with the salt. I'll just go
Nice.
Pepper.
And I'll often do it at home
without the rack,
so that I can push it around
in there, too.
That's perfect.
-And then, once you're done with that,
- Mm-hmm?
come over and marinate this one.
So, it's only holding so much of this,
Chef. What do I do here?
-That's perfect.
- That's perfect?
-Just save the rest of it?
- Yeah.
Now, what would you do?
You pop this in the oven, 200 degrees?
Yeah. Either one,
and then you finish it at a higher heat
-to get the crust.
-That's where I screw it up.
I never get that crust, I always burn--
If you go too long, that just turns
into one big black blister.
-You gotta go low all the way.
-Yeah?
And then the last 20 minutes,
you gotta go high.
Yeah, but that 20 minutes,
you gotta watch it,
'cause sometimes
that 20 minutes is ten minutes.
-Yeah, but that's cooking.
- That's cooking.
Ready to cook rice.
So, let's just do yours first.
Cauliflower rice.
So, you have oil.
I like to add a little bit of a mixture,
sesame and canola oil in there. Okay.
- So I'll go in with the scallion.
- Save me some.
-Okay.
- All right.
Ginger.
Garlic.
-Do you season at all, right now?
-Uh
-At home?
-I usually don't. I usually wait--
We need-- We need to.
-Salt and pepper.
- Really?
- You add a little olive oil.
-Yeah, like this?
- You have your kimchi.
Beautiful. Butter.
Now it's gotta heat back up again.
That hotter?
And right now, don't move it around
too much. Let it caramelize.
Okay.
And then you'll add your veg,
and then your caulif--
Your pork and your cauliflower rice.
Mushrooms.
Behind.
Carrots.
-Cabbage.
- I'm gonna get started, too.
Olive oil, sesame oil.
What did you put on the top,
sesame oil or butter?
Sesame oil and canola oil.
No seasoning, though?
Nothing yet.
I'm just crisping the rice right now.
I'm gonna go with pork now.
I'll leave you a little bit.
Fried rice cook-off.
Oh, yeah, yours is looking good.
Now, Chef,
I would introduce my, um, cauliflower.
Yes.
Now, usually, I would--
I would've cooked this beforehand
-With cauliflower?
-With sha--
Yeah, I'll cook it with shallots and,
um and garlic.
Olive oil.
Now season.
Salt.
So for me,
I'm getting the rice ready like that.
Canola oil.
Sesame oil.
Scallion.
Garlic.
- I'm gonna add salt and pepper.
Just chopped kimchi.
- Always a little more butter, right?
- Always.
I usually hit the lemon near the end.
-Does it matter?
- No.
A little soy, maybe?
Yeah.
Wow, that's really good.
Not too much.
It's actually really good. There.
I go off the heat,
and then I do a little egg?
Yeah.
I think you might beat me on this one too.
I don't know.
Mushrooms.
And then, sometimes,
I'll do a fried egg on top.
Beautiful.
- Salsa verde.
-Ah!
Scallion.
Sesame seeds.
Here we go, Chef.
I gotta get it off here, though.
It's still cookin'.
Just put it right there.
Right-- Right there.
Black pepper.
Got our pork marinades.
- Oh, you're cheatin'.
- Why is this still boilin', Chef?
- Oh, you'll be fine.
Yeah?
Is this like Breaking Away?
You're sticking your pump
in my bicycle spokes?
'Cause this-- It's done cookin'.
I'm puttin' it somewhere else.
Carrots.
Eggs at the end.
This one takes a little bit longer
because of the rice
-compared to the cauliflower.
- Right.
-So?
- Try it.
Pepper.
Wow.
-That's really great, Roy.
- Thank you.
That's not like the fried rice
I grew up eatin'.
Sesame oil.
Salsa verde.
Oh!
Sesame seeds, black pepper.
Let's try it.
I wanna try yours.
- That's good, Jon.
-Yeah?
You could open a shop with just this.
It-- It's--
It's still-- When I eat that, I'm like,
"Oh, well, you can't tell the difference."
And then I eat yours,
and it's sort of gummy and sort of crispy.
- Yeah.
- The texture's the thing that
that is something I can't--
I just can't do yet.
- What's goin' on here?
What's up? It's perfect timing.
This is, uh, Jon Favreau.
Um Padawan has become Jedi.
- This is with cauliflower rice,
and this is just regular.
Pretty good!
Pretty good.
Sir.
How you doin', man?
Is there-- There's no rice in there?
No, it's all cauliflower rice.
-Well, it's super delicious.
- Yeah.
I would not be able to tell
that didn't have rice in it.
Can I just say it?
This is like I'm singin' in the shower,
and then Pavarotti walks in
and starts-- and starts critiquing you.
That sounded like something.
-No, this is delicious.
-Thank you, man.
So you two are gonna be cooking
Korean food.
Roy said
you've never really cooked together
-that way.
-No.
'Cause I remember my big surprise final
before we shot Chef was the Bel-Air,
and you and Wolfgang
were the three chefs teaming up.
And I was givin' him--
I was bustin' his balls
about makin' an omelet.
And then, Wolf, the master of masters--
Showed me how to do it.
That was my last lesson before Chef.
But it was also
seasoning with a wet hand.
-Oh, that's right, I was giving him--
-I remember everything you told me.
'Cause the first thing
you said to me was
"What's he doin' here?
He doesn't belong here."
And you were laughin' at me when I was
humpin' around
the big tubs of spot prawns.
And then Wolf came over
with a towel on the shoulder and
And then he was, like, cook an egg,
and that's when the audience came.
And that was my last--
You were under the gun
'cause everyone was lookin' at you.
Everybody was watching.
And you gave me a lot of good pointers,
and after that you walked me around
and you showed me
the rib you were making,
and you talked me through
every single thing.
So, you actually uh
made quite a wonderful impression.
But I liked how you came in a little--
It was like, you know,
it was like a fantasy novel,
like, when you first meet the good guy.
They seem like they might be the bad guy,
and then by the end--
The thing is, we need to keep the wall up.
We can't have him starting to make food.
Next thing you know,
he's gonna open up a restaurant.
- Yeah.
- Right.
'Cause, like,
did you really make this dish?
-Yeah.
-It's really good!
It's really good.
It almost tastes like Kongbiji to me.
That's what it is.
-Right? It looks like it.
- What's that?
So it's a tofu sludge,
or sometimes it's just ground soy beans
-Uh-huh.
-cooked in kimchi and, uh, pork belly.
It has that acidity from the kimchi,
it has the fattiness from the pork belly.
And it looks the same.
They're both extraordinarily
uh, non-photogenic to the western palette.
-Ugly delicious?
-Ugly delicious.
It looks like sludge.
- Birthday soup.
- Birthday soup.
-So, what are you doin'?
-Um
I'm makin' a version of Miyeok Guk,
which is something that you eat
on your birthday.
And it's a dish
that I'm trying to reconcile with
because, as a kid, I would never eat it
'cause I thought-- I hated it.
-Hated it.
- Hated it because
you know, like, you're in America.
You don't wanna eat seaweed.
And it was embarrassing sometimes.
-So, it's a seaweed soup? Is that--
-Seaweed soup--
I used to just drink the broth.
I always left the seaweed.
But it was just too weird for me!
And I wanted a hot dog,
I wanted a hamburger
You're gonna hate the texture.
The texture is like, um
It's like phlegm.
It's like phlegm, okay.
But, I'm gonna make it--
I'm gonna try to make it different,
but hopefully something
that you're gonna like.
Because I'm just screwin' around
with the idea of, like--
I'm trying to create a version
of Miyeok Guk
that, if I was ten years old,
I would eat it.
That's perfect for me, 'cause I'm like--
Roy said I eat like a ten-year-old.
- Yeah. Yes, it's perfect.
-Right?
We have made a oxtail stock.
Koreans love oxtail,
and I love the broth from it
'cause it's super gelatinous.
We're gonna bring that up to a boil.
This is where it's gonna go
a little bit off the deep end.
And if my mom was watching this
she'd be like, "What are you doing?"
I'm gonna make a beurre noisette.
I'm gonna make brown butter.
It looks like a lot of butter,
'cause it is,
but we're not gonna add all of it.
You need that much to get it brown.
I think one of the more underrated flavors
in food are brown milk solids.
Sometimes, I end up with brown butter
-even when I don't mean to.
- Even when you don't want.
- So, I'm gonna add this garlic,
onions.
Whenever I'm sweating down onions
or garlic, I definitely season it,
'cause it helps break it down.
He just got me today on that, yeah.
I'm just gonna,
like, set this aside.
And then bring this up.
Right when it starts to bubble,
turn it off.
-You guys wanna--
- Yeah.
Pull some of this and put it in there?
Oh, those are the oxtail.
These are the oxtail
that are sliced thin.
And we're just gonna pick 'em
to pieces like this.
I was like,
"What kind of mushrooms are these?
Again, oxtail,
to me, is
I mean, besides being, like,
really prominent
in certain, uh, cuisines,
specifically, like, Jamaican food.
I think Koreans have an affinity
for oxtail,
um
and it-- it's another type of meat
that I was sort of embarrassed
that my mom would make a lot.
I think Koreans like it 'cause it--
Koreans are fascinated with being rich.
And I think this makes them think
they're rich 'cause their lips get sticky.
And they'll say it's good for you.
It's healthy for you.
'Cause all the fat and collagen
will make your face look better.
Yeah.
Really, they're fascinated with looks
Why does sticky lips make--
is associated with rich?
The saying is that it's really healthy
for you, even though you're eating fat
and pork skin because it's--
I guess there must be science to it
in the sense
that it makes your skin look better.
-I don't know.
-Yeah.
I don't eat it for the health purposes.
-Right.
So now,
I'm gonna add in my katsuo.
That's a bonito?
- Yeah.
- A flake?
And it's not too much,
but it's enough just to add a little bit
of a smoky, fishy flavor.
And I'm gonna turn off the heat,
and then we're gonna steep it like a tea.
I think we're good on our oxtails, too.
Then I'm gonna add spinach to it
and sorrel for a little bit of acidity.
I find that this dish takes
a lot of black pepper.
Then we're gonna strain it out.
It's almost like a consommé.
And then we're gonna add seaweed.
Season it up. We're almost ready.
Then I'm gonna add the rice cakes.
So, definitely beefy, but now I'm getting
just a little, little, little fish.
And this is something,
when you're growing up,
you're not stoked when this is served?
Miyeok Guk
some are, but I-- I really--
It was never my favorite dish.
-But you have to eat it.
-You have to eat it.
Because your grandma makes it
for you.
Because it's your birthday,
so you had to have it.
I don't even know if there's an equivalent
in America
-We have birthday cake.
-Birthday cake.
But we like that.
But sometimes there's bad birthday cake.
-Dry.
-Even the best--
Even the worst birthday cake, I think--
We haven't given you the best lead-up
for this dish.
Yeah. We've been saying
we hate this dish, we never--
That's good, though,
low expectations. That's good.
-I mean, but--
-It looks good.
- It looks delicious.
- This doesn't look like how--
-This doesn't look like how it--
-No? On your birthday?
It's much more like prison food.
-I think it's great.
-It's delicious.
But this is definitely not
how our grandmas made it.
So, you're redeeming this dish.
I really am in love
with all the things
that we grew up hating.
And I'm asking myself,
"Could you tweak some things
without ripping the guts out of it?"
This isn't like I turned this
into a ravioli,
-stuffed it with a beef farce--
- No, no.
If you looked at it,
you'd be able to guess what this is.
Right. It still looks Korean,
but it's not anything else,
but it's not our mom's
or grandmother's dish either.
All right, Roy, what you got?
So, I'm gonna make the marinade,
but I already have some marinated here.
-What you got there?
- This is the kalbi.
Jon and Dave,
you guys can start grilling kalbi
while I'm making the marinade.
We're gonna kill two birds
with one stone.
I just wanna--
kinda wanna show how easy this is.
Green onion,
mirin,
orange juice, sugar,
sesame oil, garlic,
soy sauce, onions
and sesame seeds.
Real simple.
I started Kogi with one blender.
And, uh,
I figured if people had a blender,
they treated it like bar drinks,
like they could cook a lot easier.
Everything just in one thing.
You just blend it. No excuse.
That's how fast you can cook.
-There we go.
How long do you let it marinate for?
-Oh, you could go directly
- Yeah?
and you'll still be good,
but two hours at least.
Well, if you guys wanna taste
You wanna taste, Jon?
Um, my marinade is a little bit
it's a little bit different
than traditional, but it's, like--
-Both of you.
- But I really like--
It's almost like you can drink it.
You know?
What's in there again?
- Orange juice, green onion--
-Orange juice!
- Orange juice, green onion
-Fuck, that's it!
- Um garlic
- That is it!
onion
Who-- Is that a-- Is that a Mama Choi,
or is that you?
No, that was kind of me.
A little bit of Mama Choi's here,
but it's, like, remixed.
'Cause the fruit juice is
- It's the beef. Yeah.
-oftentimes in a good kalbi marinade.
-Yeah.
- Kiwi.
It almost usually goes to pineapple-kiwi,
but more traditionally, like,
Asian pear
-or an apple.
-Uh-huh.
And never in my wildest dreams
-did I ever think that orange juice--
- Yeah.
-But it works!
- It works.
Sometimes, we as Asians,
we get lumped into being "Asian," right?
So people think that being Korean
is all one thing.
But it-- From the moment I met Dave,
I knew that our families
had different backgrounds,
and we had different styles of cooking.
We come from different regions
of the country.
Uh, we're still Korean,
but we have different food, you know?
Like, all Korean food is
not just one thing.
And also, like, where Roy grew up.
Roy grew up in LA.
- Yep, and I grew up in LA.
-Uh I--
I could never think or do what he does
because he knows so much stuff
that I don't know anything about.
-Is that where the orange juice came from?
-Yeah.
-Is that more Mexican influence?
-Uh-huh.
And so, you wanna marinate these.
You wanna kinda, like,
-tenderize 'em a little bit.
- Okay.
Be gentle
-so they don't break apart.
- Okay.
So this cut of kalbi is called
LA kalbi, right?
- Yeah.
- And it's not--
I guess one story is
because it was invented in LA.
Uh, it was used by LA people.
LA kalbi wasn't used in Korea.
It was considered a cheap cut,
but then out here, they didn't have
the kind of cut that we use in Korea.
- What do you do--?
-This is a cross-cut.
In Korea it's the other way around.
It has the meat that flanks out.
Oh,
so these little rib cross sections,
-this is a LA thing?
- Mm-hmm.
'Cause that's called flanken to my people.
And I think it existed
because of the Jewish community,
and Koreans-- That was the only thing
that they could get at the market.
-Flanken.
-Yeah.
How did you grow up eating that?
Is it grilled or is it boiled?
We had all the cuts.
My people didn't know what to do with--
You know, you-- you eat brisket,
and it's a bummer,
and then you go down to Austin,
and you realize
what you could do with that cut.
But you got-- I mean--
There's stuff that the Jewish people do
right with food.
Like matzo ball soup, matzo brei.
There's great stuff.
But they also have good smoked fish.
The smoked fish is a element that, like
master class, they figured that out.
Yeah,
but you almost do want to reclaim it
as something cool and something delicious,
and you don't want it to be something
that disappears to the ages.
And I think that's part of the fear, too,
is that so much of
our culture lives in our food.
The food sticks with you, and it's--
And if you ate something growing up,
and you have a taste for it,
you seek it out,
that's gonna keep that alive.
And that's the best part about food,
is that it is and has always been
a very communal thing, right?
Especially with your family
and your friends, so
I think at-- at-- at it's core,
that kind of experience is something
that we're trying to recreate more
within our restaurants.
That's great.
Orange juice.
So, over here,
while he's finishing up
the kalbi over there,
I'm gonna make
another very similar marinade,
but this will be for a braised soup.
So ginger, soy sauce, onion,
sesame seeds,
garlic, sugar,
green onion, mirin,
apple juice,
and orange juice.
So, I'm gonna add water to this, Jon.
Jon, can you grab those short ribs
right there?
Go ahead
and let's drain all that water out.
Rinse it a little bit.
What was that? That's just water?
There's no salt or anything in there?
Water overnight.
- Why?
-Suck out all the impurities.
Look at the meat now, how clean it is.
So then, now we're gonna drop these
in here.
Now why wouldn't you have brined it?
Because all the flavor's in the soup.
Go just under a boil on that?
Yeah, I'll bring it to a boil,
and then go all the way down.
All right.
So, we have the soup.
This is getting there.
But, uh
-It's sweet.
- But he knows, growing up--
Imagine coming home,
especially, like,
if you've been away from home,
like, let's say college.
And you come home,
and your house smells like that,
and you're just like, "Ah!"
-Smells so good.
- Yeah, smells so good.
With a bag of laundry, you know?
Now what's that soup for? It's a--
It's a royal soup.
So, it's like a special occasion soup.
So, like--
at a family get together,
or a graduation, or
if you come home from school,
or college, or something, you know?
And what makes it--
What makes it that soup?
That there's short rib in it?
Yeah, it's an expensive soup.
I think there's a misconception
with Korean food
that it's, like, all beef all the time.
But the reality is
-it's expensive and very little beef.
- Expensive, yeah.
And oftentimes, beef is used
to flavor other things.
-Right.
-So, whenever you have a big pot of beef,
it was for, you know,
-a super, super important thing.
-Feast.
'Cause Korea's, like, 70% mountain ranges.
-So, there's no, like, cattle.
- Right.
So, it's pretty weird that our food is
known for barbecue beef.
- Yeah.
-'Cause it's really not our food.
-Right.
-Yeah.
We eat, like, shoots, and roots,
and, like like
mountain herbs.
It's all extraordinarily healthy.
-We're like hobbits, actually.
- We're gonna finish it up now.
- Is that the big finale?
Yeah. We're gonna add
the root vegetables, basically.
Carrots, chestnuts
Mushroom.
Butternut squash.
Taro.
The taro's gonna excrete almost like okra,
a little bit of, uh, thickness to it.
It's gonna be really nice.
Sometimes I'll puree, uh,
-raw potato.
- Hmm.
- Just to thicken it?
- Yeah.
That's a nice trick.
So, the other birthday soup was
one you wouldn't look forward to,
-but this one, growing up--
- This one you eat.
This is what you wanted to eat.
The other one, you were all like,
"Ugh! Gotta make my grandma happy."
- This is the one--
this is the one
you look forward to coming home. Yeah.
That's-- That's--
-That flavor, that's unmistakable.
- Yeah.
Oh, yeah.
Once the vegetables begin to break down
after day two or day three,
-that's the best part.
-What do you mean, day two or day three?
You-- You make, like, a pot like this.
It's like three days' worth of meals.
Yeah.
-Every day, it's gonna taste different.
- Yeah.
So, by day three,
I mean, almost all the meat
gets saturated, and it falls off the bone.
I always have loved the vegetables.
- Yeah.
-Right.
Are the veggies done?
Yeah. Yeah, it's pretty much done.
I like to put in rice and sesame seeds.
Mm.
It's good.
I feel this is like--
This is just one of the best.
Tastes like Mama Choi.
And when did your mom start making
kimchi here?
She made it all along,
but she started selling it in,
like, the '80s.
Your mom sold kimchi?
Yeah, our whole house was basically
a fermenting lab.
Backyard, front yard. You'd walk in,
and there would be hanging dead fish.
Can you imagine,
you bring a girl you like home,
and you open the door,
and there's 75 dead fish hanging
from the ceiling?
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