Chef's Table (2015) s02e05 Episode Script
Ana Ross
Love is crucial.
If we don't have love, it's difficult to work well.
And in the kitchen, that is extremely important.
When one is loved, she can create better.
There is more passion.
More beautiful thoughts.
Because of love we do nice things, and because of love, sometimes we create catastrophes.
Slovenia is a very little-known country.
On a map, most people don't know where it is.
There's no way around the fact, it's a remote location.
What you get here is the thrill of going somewhere completely unexpected that you can't imagine.
And if you say you're going to Slovenia, they'll say, "Are you going to Hiša Franko?" The first time that I went to the restaurant, it was like going to visit your grandmother.
I mean, this feeling of being cared for the minute that you step through the door.
The dining experience at Hiša Franko is like you're coming into a home.
So you feel immediately very welcome.
You feel at ease.
There's a Wizard of Oz quality.
It's like going to visit the wizard when you come to Hiša Franko.
Ana is at the very, very top of people who are making food in Europe in the 21st century.
Which is very unusual because there's no gastronomic reputation in Slovenia, like there is in France or Italy.
There's no Michelin Guide in Slovenia.
That makes it very, very difficult, not only for her, also for other Slovenian chefs.
She's never going to have a star, even though she deserves it.
She is a really sophisticated and passionate chef, who has a really mischievous culinary imagination.
Her genius in the kitchen is that she knows exactly how to take all these different Slovenian traditions, and she tweaks them to make them modern.
Ana's menu, it's original.
It opens up a whole new world.
You don't have her food in any other place.
Ana did not come from some fancy culinary school.
She's a self-taught cook.
She opened the door, stepped into the kitchen, and started to produce this exquisite food.
And every time I've ever eaten at Hiša Franko, I find myself thinking, "This is an astonishing performance.
" Two peaches, right away.
Yes.
Don't let so much time pass in between.
You need to think in advance, Maja.
Look, Maja.
Did you add salt? One of the things that I've always been most fascinated about by Ana's cooking is that she has this particular genius with the unexpected.
She'll have these totally off-the-wall combinations of things.
One of her most intriguing dishes sounds like a broken haiku.
When you read, "Squid, sweetbreads uh, walnuts and Tolmin cheese," you can't imagine what these flavors "What is all this stuff gonna taste like when I put it in my mouth?" But then, you're in the midst of eating said thing, and suddenly you are surprised by how spectacular the food is.
The earthiness and the custardy flavor of the sweetbread is tempered by the crunchiness of the squid.
Everything is accentuating.
One thing blends into another, and you're almost at a loss as to how to explain how has this happened.
Where does that genius come from? I never went to cooking school, and that's why I discovered my own way of creating, which is less restrictive.
Upon first sight, you think, "Do I even like this?" But when you put it in your mouth, the world completely changes.
I'm proud of my audacity.
The only thing that I don't like to hear from my guests is that the dinner was boring.
That might be the biggest criticism I could ever receive.
Have you put the collar on Prince? Are we ready? Okay, let's go.
Eva, why is your bag so heavy? Svit, close the door.
Oh, these shoes of yours.
Hiša Franko is not just my kitchen.
It's also our home.
Hiša Franko is led by two people.
On one side there's me and my kitchen.
And on the other side is Valter and his wine cellar.
Valter is also my husband.
This is a true partnership 24 hours a day.
Ana and I have been together more than 20 years.
I've known her cuisine since the beginning.
We have been together for so many years that none of her dishes surprise me.
Hey.
Superb.
I think we'll get drunk just like this.
And here's the mackerel.
Let's try it first.
When we are tasting wines to pair with new dishes I thought of three bottles from my cellar that matched perfectly.
The flavor of food is enhanced by the flavor of wine and vice versa.
They give each other energy.
Ana and Valter, they are totally cool people.
They are cool.
They are original.
And, uh, you know, the big difference with another restaurant where you have a chef and a sommelier? It's that they are a couple.
He knows Ana's kitchen, Ana's cooking as well as he knows Ana as his wife.
What he brings to the dining experience is that the wines are perfect.
It's not a science.
It's not one plus one equals two.
It's just a fusion of the two of them.
And it makes the dining experience fantastic.
I'm a child of a rural doctor.
In the countryside, doctors are important people.
My father and I were are very attached to each other.
When growing up, your parents are your first true love.
We had a beautiful father-daughter relationship.
My father strived for me to get an education.
To be somebody.
She was a very good skier.
She was a member of the youth national team of Yugoslavia.
She would come home late from practice, and get up at 5:00 a.
m.
and get ready for school.
That was how it was every day for her.
Even while balancing sports and demanding activities, she was an excellent student.
She studied international relations.
We were all expecting that she would end up as a professional diplomat.
I was put under more and more pressure from practice, competition and high expectations.
But when somebody puts all that on your plate, it's really difficult.
It doesn't allow any creativity.
Look, mint.
- Knock, knock, knock.
- Hello! - Hello.
- Hello.
You are finally here! We are just making coffee.
Coffee! Coffee and milk.
Okay, I will drink some brandy instead.
The first thing you have to do when you come to the mountains is to take a shot of brandy.
Shots at 7:00 a.
m.
? That is a good day.
Mmm.
Wow.
You need to drink all at once! Ana.
Oh, good! Super.
During my fourth year of college, I was on break.
My mom forced me to join her for dinner.
We went to Hiša Franko.
I was working there as a waiter.
They were sitting at the table, and I could tell she was really bored.
So I invited her for a glass of wine at the bar.
We found each other interesting.
After that, we started seeing each other and we fell in love.
Soon after that I moved in with him.
These things happen fast when they are real.
We traveled the world and got to know new continents, new flavors, new wines.
We were making our wishes come true.
And that made us very happy.
It lifted our spirits.
This way of living had a deep effect on me.
It changed me.
In a way, I grew up by his side.
I was discovering completely new foreign countries.
And it seemed that my path was to leave everything from my childhood behind.
I realized that living surrounded by rules can feel very restrictive.
It's freedom that defines you.
Being aware of local tradition is the basis on which a chef should build their creations.
These are harsh living conditions.
The farmers work very hard to survive.
Beautiful room.
They're arranged by date.
There's a date on top - and then they go by age.
- Uh-huh.
How long do you keep them here? For four weeks.
In this very modest region, they didn't have refrigerators or cold places for storing.
The cheese doesn't get the opportunity to be aged.
The Tolmin cheese is one of the most beautiful expressions of our environment.
This is why our decision to age the cheese is so important.
I'd never come across anyone in the valley or in Slovenia who was aging cheese.
So I started aging this cheese in my cellar.
I nurtured it, turned it, cleaned it, washed it.
I realized it was best after three years.
When you take a bite the flavor overwhelms your mouth.
Three-year-old Tolmin cheese is an exceptional cheese.
It can be compared to the best cheeses in the world.
And using a traditional ingredient is a solid base from which we can build on.
That is why there is stuffed pasta on my menu.
It's stuffed with cheese from the high part of SoÄa Valley.
Even though we're creating something new Hiša Franko has an important role in keeping this tradition alive.
Everything changed when Valter's father decided to retire and leave Hiša Franko to Valter.
Valter could not run the restaurant on his own.
At the time, she had a job offer in Brussels, and we expected that she would take it.
Having to make a decision that will hurt your family is one of the hardest things you can do.
I had to decide.
I stayed because of Valter and our relationship.
My father started panicking.
"What will become of you? Are you planning on working in a restaurant?" Then he stopped speaking to me.
That silence was extremely painful.
Well, this is the right temperature.
We should measure it now.
210°C, yes.
The rice is all lively.
Can you see? When I opened the kitchen doors, I didn't want to walk through them and change my life.
It would have been natural for Valter to be the chef.
He grew up in the restaurant.
But since Valter was already a sommelier it had to be me.
The first years were extremely difficult.
I knew how to make pasta at home, but that didn't mean I knew how to cook.
I had so many questions, and I had to deal with them every day.
Why doesn't my bread rise? Why are my ravioli opening? Why is the meat dry? If you go to culinary school, all these questions are answered in school.
I've always been a disciplined person who needs to have everything organized.
All of a sudden, I found myself in an abyss of ignorance.
And during that time, both my children were born.
First Svit and then 16 months later, Eva Klara.
We lost most of Hiša Franko's regular guests.
We were struggling to survive financially.
It wasn't easy, the life of a chef.
It was a story about survival.
Ana wanted to make something great of her life.
Since she hadn't done anything in diplomacy, she wanted to achieve something in gastronomy.
She had to prove to her parents and fight to show them she had taken the right path.
She knew some traditional dishes but she didn't know high gastronomy.
So we went to the best restaurants around.
I wanted to inspire her, so we could develop the restaurant and make something beautiful out of it.
Valter took me to a great Italian restaurant.
I remember a dish with polenta, rhubarb and liver.
It was so new to me, so different.
I felt like we were going to a dream world, like Alice in Wonderland.
What followed was a long, five-year period of learning.
I spent a lot of time experimenting because I was convinced I had to learn everything.
I was testing my new dishes on the guests.
Unfortunately for them, I made many mistakes.
That was when the disciplined part of me came out.
I went to the library looking for information and read through the few cookbooks that they had.
I was constantly questioning.
"Why? How? Why does this reaction happen?" Valter's chef friends helped me learn cooking techniques.
I realized that there has to be a contrast of textures, a contrast of temperatures.
And then, in this trance, my brain started looking for combinations.
That was a key moment.
I started believing in myself.
And I knew I was on my way.
Until independence, we were a socialist/communist country.
Everything was the same.
There was no excess, novelty, or expression.
And not only in art, but also in gastronomy.
One evening, a friend of ours came to dinner.
He was a food critic.
And after dinner he said, "Ana, I ate very well.
You are progressing and growing.
" But he also said, "I think that you will create something big when you start looking around at your own environment.
Why don't you try to create something with trout, cheese, or other local ingredients?" When I heard that something inside me changed.
I started thinking.
There is an indigenous fish that lives in the SoÄa River.
It's the marble trout.
In the first part of the 20th century, due to pollution in the river the fish almost became extinct.
But some very dedicated people found a healthy family of marble trout.
And with these trout they were able to save the species.
For this remote place where we live, it's a beautiful story.
Marble trout need cold, clean water with a lot of oxygen.
Like the people of the SoÄa Valley, the trout have to fight to survive.
That was my story as well.
The dish that I created with it is dedicated to that fish.
After that, I decided that, with every plate I create I want my main ingredient to be one that comes from this environment.
It began a new chapter for us.
I realized when I express the territory, that my thoughts they can travel.
I was creating a philosophy and starting a new Slovenian story.
I used to have a magazine in Italy, and I really wanted to make a story on Ana.
In 2010, I met her at some event in Milano.
She was cooking there that day.
And the meal was welcoming.
It was warm and it was very tasty.
You know, you really enjoyed it.
So I really wanted to do a story on Ana.
This editor, he said, "Slovenia, what is that? I mean, who is she and what is she doing? What's the interest?" So after that, what happened is I kind of had to invent a whole story to bring the people here and, you know, make them fall in love as well.
And they loved it.
The article changed things.
It put us on the world map.
All these little things, which really aren't so little help the gastronomies of small countries like Slovenia slowly position themselves on the international stage.
At the time, it was a very important story for Slovenian gastronomy, since it was still developing.
So every step was a big step for Slovenia.
Opening the doors for the whole nation or for a group of chefs is very difficult.
But this is what defines a big chef.
Slovenia's gastronomic reputation is shining in Europe right now.
And I think it's just the beginning.
The British are coming, the Dutch are coming The French are astonished by how good the food is.
I mean, they just say, "Who knew?" What she's done for her country is absolutely spectacular.
I've chosen the BlažiÄ cuvée to go with your duck.
A mix of merlot and sauvignon.
From my point of view, Ana didn't forsake anything by deciding not to become a diplomat, because she is a diplomat.
The difference is that the world finds its way to her, rather than her having to go out into the world.
How can I say this so you can understand me correctly? I never meant to hurt my parents but my need to be true to myself and my sense of duty to my parents were fighting a battle.
And I chose to follow my heart.
Perseverance.
Perseverance.
You have to be persistent at what you do.
Because it's hard to believe what you've been through.
And then deciding to drop out Finally getting that affirmation and being told "well done" meant the world to me.
Ana showed all of us that this valley is too small for her.
She had to spread her wings, and she did it in a very unusual way.
Now, we have our grandchildren close by, and her success as a chef.
Which is an amazing, beautiful surprise.
We are very proud.
Proud of all she has accomplished not only at home but internationally, as well.
Truly, with love you can accomplish anything.
If we don't have love, it's difficult to work well.
And in the kitchen, that is extremely important.
When one is loved, she can create better.
There is more passion.
More beautiful thoughts.
Because of love we do nice things, and because of love, sometimes we create catastrophes.
Slovenia is a very little-known country.
On a map, most people don't know where it is.
There's no way around the fact, it's a remote location.
What you get here is the thrill of going somewhere completely unexpected that you can't imagine.
And if you say you're going to Slovenia, they'll say, "Are you going to Hiša Franko?" The first time that I went to the restaurant, it was like going to visit your grandmother.
I mean, this feeling of being cared for the minute that you step through the door.
The dining experience at Hiša Franko is like you're coming into a home.
So you feel immediately very welcome.
You feel at ease.
There's a Wizard of Oz quality.
It's like going to visit the wizard when you come to Hiša Franko.
Ana is at the very, very top of people who are making food in Europe in the 21st century.
Which is very unusual because there's no gastronomic reputation in Slovenia, like there is in France or Italy.
There's no Michelin Guide in Slovenia.
That makes it very, very difficult, not only for her, also for other Slovenian chefs.
She's never going to have a star, even though she deserves it.
She is a really sophisticated and passionate chef, who has a really mischievous culinary imagination.
Her genius in the kitchen is that she knows exactly how to take all these different Slovenian traditions, and she tweaks them to make them modern.
Ana's menu, it's original.
It opens up a whole new world.
You don't have her food in any other place.
Ana did not come from some fancy culinary school.
She's a self-taught cook.
She opened the door, stepped into the kitchen, and started to produce this exquisite food.
And every time I've ever eaten at Hiša Franko, I find myself thinking, "This is an astonishing performance.
" Two peaches, right away.
Yes.
Don't let so much time pass in between.
You need to think in advance, Maja.
Look, Maja.
Did you add salt? One of the things that I've always been most fascinated about by Ana's cooking is that she has this particular genius with the unexpected.
She'll have these totally off-the-wall combinations of things.
One of her most intriguing dishes sounds like a broken haiku.
When you read, "Squid, sweetbreads uh, walnuts and Tolmin cheese," you can't imagine what these flavors "What is all this stuff gonna taste like when I put it in my mouth?" But then, you're in the midst of eating said thing, and suddenly you are surprised by how spectacular the food is.
The earthiness and the custardy flavor of the sweetbread is tempered by the crunchiness of the squid.
Everything is accentuating.
One thing blends into another, and you're almost at a loss as to how to explain how has this happened.
Where does that genius come from? I never went to cooking school, and that's why I discovered my own way of creating, which is less restrictive.
Upon first sight, you think, "Do I even like this?" But when you put it in your mouth, the world completely changes.
I'm proud of my audacity.
The only thing that I don't like to hear from my guests is that the dinner was boring.
That might be the biggest criticism I could ever receive.
Have you put the collar on Prince? Are we ready? Okay, let's go.
Eva, why is your bag so heavy? Svit, close the door.
Oh, these shoes of yours.
Hiša Franko is not just my kitchen.
It's also our home.
Hiša Franko is led by two people.
On one side there's me and my kitchen.
And on the other side is Valter and his wine cellar.
Valter is also my husband.
This is a true partnership 24 hours a day.
Ana and I have been together more than 20 years.
I've known her cuisine since the beginning.
We have been together for so many years that none of her dishes surprise me.
Hey.
Superb.
I think we'll get drunk just like this.
And here's the mackerel.
Let's try it first.
When we are tasting wines to pair with new dishes I thought of three bottles from my cellar that matched perfectly.
The flavor of food is enhanced by the flavor of wine and vice versa.
They give each other energy.
Ana and Valter, they are totally cool people.
They are cool.
They are original.
And, uh, you know, the big difference with another restaurant where you have a chef and a sommelier? It's that they are a couple.
He knows Ana's kitchen, Ana's cooking as well as he knows Ana as his wife.
What he brings to the dining experience is that the wines are perfect.
It's not a science.
It's not one plus one equals two.
It's just a fusion of the two of them.
And it makes the dining experience fantastic.
I'm a child of a rural doctor.
In the countryside, doctors are important people.
My father and I were are very attached to each other.
When growing up, your parents are your first true love.
We had a beautiful father-daughter relationship.
My father strived for me to get an education.
To be somebody.
She was a very good skier.
She was a member of the youth national team of Yugoslavia.
She would come home late from practice, and get up at 5:00 a.
m.
and get ready for school.
That was how it was every day for her.
Even while balancing sports and demanding activities, she was an excellent student.
She studied international relations.
We were all expecting that she would end up as a professional diplomat.
I was put under more and more pressure from practice, competition and high expectations.
But when somebody puts all that on your plate, it's really difficult.
It doesn't allow any creativity.
Look, mint.
- Knock, knock, knock.
- Hello! - Hello.
- Hello.
You are finally here! We are just making coffee.
Coffee! Coffee and milk.
Okay, I will drink some brandy instead.
The first thing you have to do when you come to the mountains is to take a shot of brandy.
Shots at 7:00 a.
m.
? That is a good day.
Mmm.
Wow.
You need to drink all at once! Ana.
Oh, good! Super.
During my fourth year of college, I was on break.
My mom forced me to join her for dinner.
We went to Hiša Franko.
I was working there as a waiter.
They were sitting at the table, and I could tell she was really bored.
So I invited her for a glass of wine at the bar.
We found each other interesting.
After that, we started seeing each other and we fell in love.
Soon after that I moved in with him.
These things happen fast when they are real.
We traveled the world and got to know new continents, new flavors, new wines.
We were making our wishes come true.
And that made us very happy.
It lifted our spirits.
This way of living had a deep effect on me.
It changed me.
In a way, I grew up by his side.
I was discovering completely new foreign countries.
And it seemed that my path was to leave everything from my childhood behind.
I realized that living surrounded by rules can feel very restrictive.
It's freedom that defines you.
Being aware of local tradition is the basis on which a chef should build their creations.
These are harsh living conditions.
The farmers work very hard to survive.
Beautiful room.
They're arranged by date.
There's a date on top - and then they go by age.
- Uh-huh.
How long do you keep them here? For four weeks.
In this very modest region, they didn't have refrigerators or cold places for storing.
The cheese doesn't get the opportunity to be aged.
The Tolmin cheese is one of the most beautiful expressions of our environment.
This is why our decision to age the cheese is so important.
I'd never come across anyone in the valley or in Slovenia who was aging cheese.
So I started aging this cheese in my cellar.
I nurtured it, turned it, cleaned it, washed it.
I realized it was best after three years.
When you take a bite the flavor overwhelms your mouth.
Three-year-old Tolmin cheese is an exceptional cheese.
It can be compared to the best cheeses in the world.
And using a traditional ingredient is a solid base from which we can build on.
That is why there is stuffed pasta on my menu.
It's stuffed with cheese from the high part of SoÄa Valley.
Even though we're creating something new Hiša Franko has an important role in keeping this tradition alive.
Everything changed when Valter's father decided to retire and leave Hiša Franko to Valter.
Valter could not run the restaurant on his own.
At the time, she had a job offer in Brussels, and we expected that she would take it.
Having to make a decision that will hurt your family is one of the hardest things you can do.
I had to decide.
I stayed because of Valter and our relationship.
My father started panicking.
"What will become of you? Are you planning on working in a restaurant?" Then he stopped speaking to me.
That silence was extremely painful.
Well, this is the right temperature.
We should measure it now.
210°C, yes.
The rice is all lively.
Can you see? When I opened the kitchen doors, I didn't want to walk through them and change my life.
It would have been natural for Valter to be the chef.
He grew up in the restaurant.
But since Valter was already a sommelier it had to be me.
The first years were extremely difficult.
I knew how to make pasta at home, but that didn't mean I knew how to cook.
I had so many questions, and I had to deal with them every day.
Why doesn't my bread rise? Why are my ravioli opening? Why is the meat dry? If you go to culinary school, all these questions are answered in school.
I've always been a disciplined person who needs to have everything organized.
All of a sudden, I found myself in an abyss of ignorance.
And during that time, both my children were born.
First Svit and then 16 months later, Eva Klara.
We lost most of Hiša Franko's regular guests.
We were struggling to survive financially.
It wasn't easy, the life of a chef.
It was a story about survival.
Ana wanted to make something great of her life.
Since she hadn't done anything in diplomacy, she wanted to achieve something in gastronomy.
She had to prove to her parents and fight to show them she had taken the right path.
She knew some traditional dishes but she didn't know high gastronomy.
So we went to the best restaurants around.
I wanted to inspire her, so we could develop the restaurant and make something beautiful out of it.
Valter took me to a great Italian restaurant.
I remember a dish with polenta, rhubarb and liver.
It was so new to me, so different.
I felt like we were going to a dream world, like Alice in Wonderland.
What followed was a long, five-year period of learning.
I spent a lot of time experimenting because I was convinced I had to learn everything.
I was testing my new dishes on the guests.
Unfortunately for them, I made many mistakes.
That was when the disciplined part of me came out.
I went to the library looking for information and read through the few cookbooks that they had.
I was constantly questioning.
"Why? How? Why does this reaction happen?" Valter's chef friends helped me learn cooking techniques.
I realized that there has to be a contrast of textures, a contrast of temperatures.
And then, in this trance, my brain started looking for combinations.
That was a key moment.
I started believing in myself.
And I knew I was on my way.
Until independence, we were a socialist/communist country.
Everything was the same.
There was no excess, novelty, or expression.
And not only in art, but also in gastronomy.
One evening, a friend of ours came to dinner.
He was a food critic.
And after dinner he said, "Ana, I ate very well.
You are progressing and growing.
" But he also said, "I think that you will create something big when you start looking around at your own environment.
Why don't you try to create something with trout, cheese, or other local ingredients?" When I heard that something inside me changed.
I started thinking.
There is an indigenous fish that lives in the SoÄa River.
It's the marble trout.
In the first part of the 20th century, due to pollution in the river the fish almost became extinct.
But some very dedicated people found a healthy family of marble trout.
And with these trout they were able to save the species.
For this remote place where we live, it's a beautiful story.
Marble trout need cold, clean water with a lot of oxygen.
Like the people of the SoÄa Valley, the trout have to fight to survive.
That was my story as well.
The dish that I created with it is dedicated to that fish.
After that, I decided that, with every plate I create I want my main ingredient to be one that comes from this environment.
It began a new chapter for us.
I realized when I express the territory, that my thoughts they can travel.
I was creating a philosophy and starting a new Slovenian story.
I used to have a magazine in Italy, and I really wanted to make a story on Ana.
In 2010, I met her at some event in Milano.
She was cooking there that day.
And the meal was welcoming.
It was warm and it was very tasty.
You know, you really enjoyed it.
So I really wanted to do a story on Ana.
This editor, he said, "Slovenia, what is that? I mean, who is she and what is she doing? What's the interest?" So after that, what happened is I kind of had to invent a whole story to bring the people here and, you know, make them fall in love as well.
And they loved it.
The article changed things.
It put us on the world map.
All these little things, which really aren't so little help the gastronomies of small countries like Slovenia slowly position themselves on the international stage.
At the time, it was a very important story for Slovenian gastronomy, since it was still developing.
So every step was a big step for Slovenia.
Opening the doors for the whole nation or for a group of chefs is very difficult.
But this is what defines a big chef.
Slovenia's gastronomic reputation is shining in Europe right now.
And I think it's just the beginning.
The British are coming, the Dutch are coming The French are astonished by how good the food is.
I mean, they just say, "Who knew?" What she's done for her country is absolutely spectacular.
I've chosen the BlažiÄ cuvée to go with your duck.
A mix of merlot and sauvignon.
From my point of view, Ana didn't forsake anything by deciding not to become a diplomat, because she is a diplomat.
The difference is that the world finds its way to her, rather than her having to go out into the world.
How can I say this so you can understand me correctly? I never meant to hurt my parents but my need to be true to myself and my sense of duty to my parents were fighting a battle.
And I chose to follow my heart.
Perseverance.
Perseverance.
You have to be persistent at what you do.
Because it's hard to believe what you've been through.
And then deciding to drop out Finally getting that affirmation and being told "well done" meant the world to me.
Ana showed all of us that this valley is too small for her.
She had to spread her wings, and she did it in a very unusual way.
Now, we have our grandchildren close by, and her success as a chef.
Which is an amazing, beautiful surprise.
We are very proud.
Proud of all she has accomplished not only at home but internationally, as well.
Truly, with love you can accomplish anything.