The Mind of a Chef (2012) s03e12 Episode Script

France

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Paris is a place of sensory stimulation.
Impressions, smells, sounds and so much food to eat.
For a young cook born and raised in northern Sweden and still years away from running his own restaurant, the City of Lights beckoned.
With the guidance of mentors and friends like chef Pascal Barbot You need to find the right balance.
A bit of craziness.
And Adeline Grattard.
In France we have so much variety.
Magnus Nilsson learned not just technique, but also to respect the ingredients.
His experience in France carries through to the present day at his restaurant Fãviken.
Enter the Mind of a Chef.
Having some limitations can be very good.
Three minutes until the scallop goes on properly hot.
You feel when a dish really sings to you.
I went to France first for vacation together with a friend.
We were planning to stay three or four weeks.
I didn't go home until three and a half years later.
Coming to Paris, having grown up in the north of Sweden in pretty much the countryside, it was just fantastic in so many ways.
So many impressions and smells and sounds and things to do and see and so much food to eat.
From the beginning, I started to look for jobs, which is not as easy as a young Swede might think it is.
I just couldn't imagine staying there and not working with someone that could teach me.
I was almost about to give up when I walked past this little restaurant quite close to where I lived and I recognized the name of it.
L'Astrance.
This is a fantastic time of year, huh? It's perfect.
All this is coming up.
This area very lucky because we are right on the season, you know.
Last year the spring was six weeks too early.
But this year, the nature is very generous with us.
It's going slow, you know, it's perfect.
So here we're at just the beginning of Normandy, it's one hour outside of Paris.
And it's Marta and Jean-Francois.
So friends of yours.
Yeah, it's a friend of mine.
Jean Francois told me he's got some rhubarb.
Oh, perfect.
He's very happy to use it.
It's good.
Magnus, can you remember when you used to work at the restaurant we tried some different tests with rhubarb.
We cut it lengthwise and it was almost like glass.
Can you smell this one? Yeah.
I soaked the rhubarb stick in sugar for one night.
The sugar begin to cook it, to burn it.
When this is the beginning of the season, the colors are amazing.
Yeah.
Beautiful pink.
The skin is going to be so soft now.
Yeah.
I like that.
This was one of the first techniques that we developed together.
Yeah.
I remember exactly when you gave me the instructions from day one that I was going to look at it as if we were cooking the product for a main course.
Exactly.
That's often the case with desserts.
People tend to not look at them as dishes, it's just desserts.
You don't put the same effort into cooking the main product.
I don't always to blend, to mix.
This is something that's very important for me.
Oh, here.
They're perfect, huh? I'm going to use it.
Yeah, it'll go very well with the rhubarb.
Do you want some of the ones that haven't flowered yet as well? No, because it's toxic.
We need to pickle it before to use it.
Oh yeah, really? Yeah.
I use them fresh.
No.
If you eat a lot, if you eat No one has died yet from eating mine, so but that's good to know.
Mmm that's nice.
Yeah, beautiful.
Two will be enough.
The goal of my dessert is only white flowers.
So acacia, sureau, elderflowers, and jasmine.
Oh that's going to be fantastic.
So I have rhubarb juice.
That's nice, huh? Rhubarb and elderflower is a pretty nice combination.
Pretty sure, yes.
I'm going to infuse the elderflowers in rhubarb syrup.
I want it very concentrate.
In France we have the culture of the patisserie.
This is so important for us.
So we need something creamy and butter, very tasty.
So here I bring some tarte au sucre, this is a dough, cream and sugar, very French.
Huile de sureau, just infused some elderflowers in oil.
Very creamy.
And here I'm going to make the tart, so this is pâte à cigarette, très épurée; very pure.
Very neat, huh? Yes, yes, yes, all the same size.
So very easy to cook it.
I'm going to cook it for seven or eight minutes.
This is very, very ripe.
Very nice and perfumed.
I'm keeping it fresh, I don't want to cook it.
Rhubarb.
Fresh strawberries.
I love always fresh fruits, you notice that.
Yes.
Oh, right on time.
It's perfect.
This is something you will like to do it because it's very Swedish, straight, clean.
NILSSON Yes.
Very precise.
The way we do it in the north.
Yes.
I think that was good for me though to work in France for a while.
Otherwise we get a little bit more spontaneity.
Yes, and a bit of craziness.
You have to be crazy in a kitchen.
I think I was already crazy.
That's a pre-existing condition.
This is a jasmine chantilly.
Nice and light.
Yes.
So I have some jasmine inside.
Yup.
I want to keep the dough very crispy.
Tarte au sucre.
Okay.
The texture of that is fantastic, yeah? Amazing, yeah.
Beautiful.
Now that.
Yes.
And this is it.
The right balance is the most important.
Too rich, not enough rich, too creamy, not enough creamy.
Some fruit, acidity, sugar.
This is the difficulty of a dessert.
This is the kind of desserts and kind of dishes that I remember from when I used to work with you.
Perfect balance and the like very nice and neat execution.
Easy to understand.
Yeah, you just have to eat this and you understand.
That's it.
What is this one? Currant.
I'm going to take some of these.
What did you bring from the market this morning? Green peas.
Ah, green peas, yes.
The peas are so good now, they are so sweet.
So I'm going to just serve them raw.
It's nice, yeah.
And this I'm just going to cut them in, like, irregular pieces.
The turnips? Yeah.
Excellent.
I remember when I started working at L'Astrance, after having badgered you for a long time to give me a position.
That was a challenge.
That was the first challenge, to actually get in there.
Yes.
I remember in the morning you came every day for one week and you wait in front of the restaurant.
"Who is this guy?" "You have a position for me?" "No.
" "Okay, sorry, but the condition is too small.
"I don't have a place for you.
Try next year.
" And the day after he came back to the restaurant.
But you didn't actually really say no.
You were kind of Otherwise I don't think I would've come back.
I was there quite a few times.
That was fascinating.
It's a very big part of me becoming a chef.
You know, the introduction to working with exceptionally good produce.
For sure it's so important.
It's like if you want to be alive, you need to breathe.
I mean for me, the most important, this is the way you cook it by salt, by sugar.
The way you season it.
The commandments.
Yes, and the way you slice it.
Yes.
That's it.
After you can be a chef.
I didn't understand it when I still worked there because then you only had the good produce.
It's normal.
It's normal, now I started working in the first restaurant in Stockholm was horrible.
You realize how difficult it is to find a good product.
I stopped cooking.
Yes.
That was when I trained to be a sommelier instead because it was so awful to work in the kitchen.
You know you're not the first one to tell me that, you know.
You just realize when you left.
Yes, that was not a very nice sensation.
It's realizing that all this time spent learning I might never be able to use because I don't like working with their produce.
Mmm smells so good.
So fun.
How long are you going to cook them for? Not crispy, just deeply browned, very savory and sweet and a little chewy.
Little bit more bitter.
Just going to take a little bit of this.
And I don't want this butter to really brown, I just want it to sort of melt and glaze.
Oh, it smells nice.
Some of the turnips cooked for quite a long time, bitter and savory.
Monsieur Tibeau's peas, very sweet, very nice.
Very tart, stringent, green currants.
Then quite a bit of salt, but only in two or three spots.
Concentrated because that gives contrast when you eat with the very sweet peas.
And then a few drops of white vinegar.
That I like a lot because it gives dishes real sharpness.
I can imagine a texture.
There's no puree so it's going to be very crispy, no? That's the natural spherification, I would like it.
Exactly.
It's nice.
That is the single greatest gift that I got from Pascal and from L'Astrance.
The notion that there can be absolutely no cooking if you haven't got the best produce.
It's really important to find people that can supply you with quality you won't find anywhere else, to expand your frame of reference to actually learn what fantastic produce looks like.
No one can teach you that.
You just have to expose yourself to accumulate that knowledge in a natural way.
Just the smell of these fantastic vegetables, moist and smell of morning and soil.
It's just fantastic.
Merci.
Most of the time, the vegetables is what makes the difference.
The garnishing of a vegetable from another, that's just about feeling, you know.
You just have to touch and taste.
Look at them and try to decide which is the best one for you.
When you've had a carrot in your hand that is grown by someone who cared to choose the right seed, the perfect day to plant, and then harvest it at the perfect moment.
It's just the feeling of exhilaration and excitement and wanting to work with the product.
Every time I peel a carrot, I want to be a little bit better than last time.
I can feel a physical irritation if I watch someone in a kitchen being careless with produce.
To achieve true excellency, you have to respect the produce.
It's caring about something that's alive.
Between me and L'Astrance, where I lived it was just like a ten-minute walk.
There was a park named Champ-de-Mars.
So we're just walking up to the building where I used to live.
And like many of these really grand French residential buildings, they have little tiny cubicles on the top floor.
It was eight square meters.
So up there on the very top floor, the fourth window from the corner, the one with the bars on it, it was mine.
And the one next to it was a cubicle that Adeline used to live in.
Adeline Grattard, she worked at L'Astrance at the same time as I did.
After L'Astrance, she moved to Hong Kong and lived there for quite some time.
She also taught me French.
The tradition in Chinese food is vertical cooking.
It always makes me very happy to see chicken looking like this, you know, like a chicken should do.
I will just remove the legs.
We will keep the head.
We need all the neck for hanging in there.
We will soak it in wine, make like a drunken chicken.
It's a wheat wine.
Wheat wine, okay.
Rice and wheat.
When I left for Hong Kong, it was not for working in a French restaurant.
I introduced pure Cantonese kitchen.
It was hard because I understood nothing.
The traditional Chinese cooks don't speak English.
And it was very special, spend nights in the dim sum factory, very big restaurant.
Ah, cool.
500 seat and they produce all night just doing dim sum.
That must have been very interesting.
Very hot, you know, very humid.
Wow, really, I think it's the best time of my life.
I thought when you moved that you were never going to come back to Europe again.
I thought you would be there forever.
You know what I was missing? The quality of ingredients.
Oh yeah.
Next step is hanging the chicken.
Perfect.
Just put it in the middle because it's a small chicken.
It's not so big.
It smells very good.
It's like a chubby little angel hanging there.
It looks fantastic, yeah? When it rests, it's good to hang, keep the moisture inside the meat.
And we will do two sauces.
Use this Shaoxing wine.
We'll add some ginger.
It will be a creamy sauce.
Ah.
So this is really French-Chinese.
Exactly.
We treat it as wine sauce.
And now the black rice vinegar.
I need to reduce it, it's quite It's pretty rough, huh? Rough, exactly.
And Chinese cane sugar.
Again, ginger and also dried mandarin peel.
For the garnish, I was happy to find sour cherries.
Not so easy.
Right now we have the season.
The girolle.
To the Shaoxing I will add some butter and some cream.
The light soy sauce and the dark one is made from mushrooms.
Just a little bit of butter to make the black vinegar shiny.
Sauce is ready.
Okay, the wok.
Let's start.
Sunflower oil.
Then the girolle.
With the wok you really attack.
I think it's one of those kind of rare people that never give up.
I put some salt.
To go to China to work, not only being unable to understand what anyone says or communicate efficiently, but also being white and a woman.
That's one of the most amazing and daring things that I've ever heard anyone do.
Now I will add the garlic the cherries to the heat and white balsamico.
It smells so good.
Garnish is on.
Oui? Now the chicken.
Remove the legs first.
Salt.
The breast.
Girolle, cherry.
I like the color on this.
Yeah, they're beautiful.
Shallots, chicken legs, breast.
The sauces the Shaoxing and black vinegar.
Yellow garlic flower.
This is a really interesting dish because it's very true to you.
Roast chicken, poulet rÃti, it's one of the biggest French classics.
And apparently it's also a Chinese classic to roast the chicken in the oven like that.
It's a fantastic mix of cultures.
One thing I'm sure we are still in there.
That's the important part, isn't it? Yeah, yeah.
And how it tastes good.
I'm sure, it smells very, very good.
We had a little tradition.
Every Thursday night after a double shift and a tough evening service, we stopped at the Eiffel Tower and we bought merguez sausages from a Moroccan lady, who was absolutely fantastic.
You just walk across that bridge in front of the Eiffel Tower, relaxing after a full 16-hour workday.
We believe that this might be bordering on illegal, this little venture.
I'm a bit disappointed on the attention of the authorities here.
Yeah.
That's strange.
Merci beaucoup.
De rien.
Thank you.
This smells so good.
Perfect.
You're welcome.
Thanks, guys.
And we're done.
That went fast, huh? Next time we'll have to bring much more bread.
Merci, tout le monde.
To honor Madame Merguez.
Provided us with many, many, many great memories.
That's true.
Yeah, very good time.
Yes.
Sometimes I miss Paris, but mostly not.
My relationship to Pascal returns within me.
That feeling of respect.
Like I'm still working there.
It's kind of the same with everything in Paris, you know.
There are so many things that haven't changed much.
The same people working in the stores.
The same product, the smell's kind of the same.
Kind of really brings you back.

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