Planet Food (2001) s06e02 Episode Script
Deep South USA
1 ANNOUNCER: FUNDING FOR THIS PROGRAM WAS PROVIDED BY SUBARU.
WOMAN: AT SUBARU, WE BUILD VEHICLES LIKE THE RUGGED OUTBACK.
WITH SYMMETRICAL ALL-WHEEL DRIVE STANDARD AND PLENTY OF CARGO SPACE.
FOR THOSE WHO PACK EVEN MORE ADVENTURE INTO LIFE.
SUBARU A PROUD SPONSOR OF GLOBE TREKKER.
BOBBY: IT'S THE BIRTHPLACE OF JAZZ, BLUES, ROCK-N-ROLL AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN.
THE CRADLE OF THE AMERICAN CIVIL WAR HERE FRIED FOOD IS KING.
AN AMAZING MELTING PO OF CULTURES WITH A UNIQUE ATTITUDE TO MUSIC, FOOD AND OLD FASHIONED HOSPITALITY.
THIS CAN ONLY BE THE DEEP SOUTH USA! THE DEEP SOUTH IS MADE UP OF SOME OF AMERICA'S POOREST STATES.
THIS WAS COTTON LAND, WHERE RICH WHITE LANDOWNERS HELD ABSOLUTE POWER OVER TENS OF THOUSANDS OF BLACK SLAVES AND SEGREGATION WAS THE NORM UNTIL THE MID SIXTIES.
A GREAT DEAL OF THE ICONIC FOODS OF THIS REGION WERE BORN DURING THIS TIME THE SOUTH IS ALSO A LAND OF IMMIGRANTS WHO BROUGHT WITH THEM THEIR OWN GASTRONOMIC TRADITIONS CREATING THE MOS FANTASTIC OF PEASANT CUISINE.
FOR MY JOURNEY I'M GOING TO FOLLOW THE MIGHTY MISSISSIPPI RIVER.
IN NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA, I SAMPLE SOME CREOLE GUMBO BEFORE TRAVELING TO LAFAYETTE FOR A JAMBALAYA.
I THEN HEAD NORTH INTO MISSISSIPPI TO NATCHEZ FOR SOME SWEET TREATS AND STOP IN VICKSBURG ON MY WAY TO GREENWOOD FOR A RENDEZVOUS WITH CLASSIC SOUTHERN FOOD AND BLUES.
CONTINUING FURTHER NORTH, I PAUSE AT TUPELO FOR AN ELVIS BURGER BEFORE TASTING ARGUABLY THE BES BARBECUE IN THE WORLD IN MEMPHIS TENNESSEE.
THAT MELTS IN YOUR MOUTH.
THAT IS DELICIOUS.
ON THE MOUTH OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER, NEW ORLEANS IS BY FAR THE BIGGEST CITY IN LOUISIANA.
THE FRENCH SETTLED HERE IN THE LATE 17TH CENTURY, BRINGING AFRICAN SLAVES, BEFORE LOSING MUCH OF THEIR AND LATER TO THE SPANISH.
NEW ORLEANS TODAY IS A SPICY, SWEATY, BOUNCING METROPOLIS UNLIKE ANY OTHER IN THE USA.
THE FRENCH, SPANISH AND ELSE HAVE ALL MADE NEW ORLEANS THE MOS FOOD CENTRIC CITY IN THE U.
S SO WHERE TO START? APPARENTLY, TO GE YOUR CULINARY BEARINGS, YOU HAVE TO UNDERSTAND THE HISTORY OF THIS CITY TO UNDERSTAND THE COMPLEXITIES OF ALL THESE DIFFERENT FLAVORS.
THE TWO MAIN STYLES OF FOOD IN LOUISIANA ARE CREOLE AND CAJUN AND THE BEST PLACE TO COME TO SAMPLE THESE DELIGHTS ARE THE EATERIES HERE IN THE FRENCH MARKET.
AND THIS IS A POOR BOY? MAN: THEY CALL IT A POOR BOY, BECAUSE A POOR BOY COULD AFFORD A BIG SANDWICH.
BOBBY: CREOLE IS TRADITIONALLY POSH CITY FOOD USING THE FINEST OF INGREDIENTS WHILE CAJUN WAS A MORE HUMBLE IMMIGRANT FARE, MADE WITH WHATEVER WAS AT HAND.
MIND YOU, BOTH DO LIKE IT SPICY.
THERE'S SPICES.
THERE'S TONS OF CHILI SAUCES.
MAN: YEAH.
BOBBY: THIS IS WHAT, MILD OR SPICY? THIS IS DANGEROUS.
MAN: THAT'S HOT, SUPER HOT.
BOBBY: YOU KNOW, I STARTS OFF LIKE A TABASCO, AND THEN IT JUST GOES BAM! I GET A GATOR ON A STICK, PLEASE? WOMAN: ABSOLUTELY, HERE WE GO.
BOBBY: THANK YOU.
WOMAN: YOU'RE WELCOME.
BOBBY: THAT'S A GATOR? WOMAN: THAT'S A GATOR.
IT'S A GRILLED ALLIGATOR SAUSAGE.
BOBBY: TASTES LIKE CHICKEN.
THIS FAMOUS PAR OF NEW ORLEANS, DISTINGUISHABLE BY ITS ICONIC WROUGHT IRON BALCONIES IS KNOWN AS THE FRENCH QUARTER.
IT WAS ACTUALLY REBUILT BY THE SPANISH WHEN THE WHOLE TOWN CAUGHT ON FIRE.
GO FIGURE.
IF YOU GO TO PARIS, YOU HAVE TO EAT PASTRIES, IF YOU GO TO LONDON, YOU HAVE TO EAT FISH AND CHIPS, AND HERE IN NEW ORLEANS YOU HAVE TO TRY BEIGNET AND COFFEE AND THE PLACE TO COME IS CAFÃ DU MONDE.
THIS IS A PRECURSOR TO THE DONUT.
ONE OF THE THINGS YOU GOT TO DO, YOU GOT TO DIP IT.
YOU CUT A PIECE OFF AND YOU DIP IT IN THE POWDERED SUGAR.
DEEP-FRIED DOUGH AND SUGAR, YOU CAN'T BEAT IT.
THIS IS TUJAQUES, IT'S THE OLDEST STAND UP BAR IN THE WHOLE OF THE UNITED STATES.
POPPY TOOKER RUNS A COOKERY SCHOOL HERE AND IS ONE OF THE CITY'S TOP CHEFS SPECIALIZING IN CREOLE CUISINE.
POPPY IS GOING TO COOK US SOMETHING INCREDIBLE.
POPPY: SEAFOOD GUMBO, BOBBY.
BOBBY: THAT'S WHAT YOU EAT WHEN YOU'RE IN NEW ORLEANS, RIGHT? THAT'S THE DISH.
POPPY: CREOLE SEAFOOD GUMBO.
BOBBY: A CREOLE, NO BE CONFUSED WITH CAJUN.
POPPY: CORRECT.
BOBBY: OKAY, WELL, TELL ME HOW TO GET STARTED.
POPPY: STAR PEELING THOSE SHRIMP.
BOBBY: I LOVE THE WAY YOU TALK TO ME.
POPPY: THE HEADS AND ALL THE SHELLS ARE GOING RIGHT INTO THE POT SO THAT WE CAN HAVE A SHRIMP STOCK.
THAT GETS THE FLAVOR OF THE SEA RIGHT INTO THE GUMBO.
WE'VE GOT TO COOK THE OCHRE NEXT, AND WE'RE JUST GOING TO SAUTÃ IT REALLY QUICK IN SOME HOT OIL.
BOBBY: OKAY, OCHRE COMING FROM AFRICA.
POPPY: YES, AND THAT'S WHERE GUMBO GETS ITS NAME.
BOBBY: THE BIG EASY.
WHY IS I CALLED THE BIG EASY? POPPY: BECAUSE IT'S SO EASY AND FUN TO LIVE HERE.
BOBBY: AND YOU'VE GOT INCREDIBLE FOOD.
POPPY: AND WE HAVE THE BEST FOOD.
BOBBY: SO, WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CREOLE AND CAJUN IN GUMBO? POPPY: THE CREOLE GUMBO, NUMBER ONE, WE'RE GOING TO HAVE A LITTLE TOMATO.
THE CAJUNS, THEY DON' PUT TOMATO IN THEIRS.
OUR GUMBO IN THE CITY, CREOLE, THAT'S THE WORD CRIOLLO MEANS NATIVE.
WE USE OCHRE AND SEAFOOD.
THE CAJUNS ARE GOING TO USE CHICKEN AND SAUSAGE.
YOU GOT THAT POT? BOBBY: I GOT THAT READY.
POPPY: PUT IT RIGHT THERE.
WHAT WE'VE GOT IN THE STOCK POT IS EVERYTHING THAT WE NEEDED TO PREP TO GE READY TO MAKE THE GUMBO.
BOBBY: SO, NOTHING WENT TO WASTE? POPPY: NOTHING WENT TO WASTE.
BOBBY: THE SKIN OF THE ONION.
POPPY: THE SKIN OF THE ONION, THE ROOT ENDS.
THIS IS THE STOCK THA SEPARATES THE MEN FROM THE BOYS WHEN IT COMES TO MAKING GUMBO.
OKAY, SO TO MAKE OUR ROUX, FIRST WE'RE GOING TO ADD OIL, AND SO NOW WE'RE GOING TO ADD SOME FLOWER AND JUS STIR IT IN.
BOBBY: WE'RE COOKING GUMBO! WOMAN: SOUNDS GOOD.
BOBBY: WHERE DOES THE TRADITION OF THIS WHOLE CREOLE COOKING COME FROM? POPPY: WELL, IT'S A COMBINATION OF ALL THE EUROPEAN CULTURES THAT CAME TOGETHER HERE IN THE CITY OF NEW ORLEANS ALONG WITH THIS HAND OF THE AFRICAN SLAVES, WHO WERE ALWAYS STIRRING THE POT.
YOU KNOW, DOWN HERE, FIRST YOU MAKE A ROUX, AND THEN YOU ADD YOUR SEASONINGS, AND IT'S ALWAYS THE SAME THREE SEASONINGS CELERY, BELL PEPPER AND ONIONS.
BOBBY: THAT'S KNOWN AS THE TRINITY.
POPPY: THE HOLY TRINITY OF CREOLE COOKING.
BOBBY: OKAY, SO WE'RE GOING TO ADD THE ONIONS.
I'M GOING TO THROW THOSE PUPPIES IN THERE RIGHT NOW.
POPPY: YES.
BOBBY: READY? 3, 2, 1.
POPPY: BEAUTIFUL, AND YOU SEE THE ROUX IS GETTING DARKER.
IF YOU ADDED ALL THREE SEASONING VEGETABLES AT THE SAME TIME, THE ROUX WOULD GET LIGHTER BECAUSE OF THE JUICINESS OF THE BELL PEPPER AND THE CELERY.
OKAY, YOU HAPPY WITH THAT? BOBBY: I'M HAPPY WITH YOU.
POPPY: OH, GOOD.
BOBBY: I'M LEARNING A LOT FROM YOU, BECAUSE YOU SEE, I WOULD HAVE THROWN ALL AT THE SAME TIME.
POPPY: WELL, YOU KNOW BOBBY: YOU WOULD HAVE AS WELL.
POPPY: OKAY, ARE YOU READY? BOBBY: I'M READY FOR THE NEXT ONE.
CAN I PUT TWO IN AT THE SAME TIME? POPPY: ADD 'EM IN.
BOBBY: OKAY, HERE WE GO.
POPPY: NOW WE'RE GOING TO ADD WHAT MAKES IT CREOLE, A LITTLE BIT OF TOMATO, OKAY? OKAY, SO ARE YOU READY TO ADD THE STOCK? YOU GOT THAT STRAINER FOR ME? OKAY.
BOBBY: WATCH OUT, THESE ARE SUEDE SHOES.
POPPY: OKAY, AND LOOK A THAT, AND CAN YOU SMELL? IT'S ALMOST LIKE A FLORAL BOUQUET THAT IS COMING OFF OF THIS.
BOBBY: OKAY.
POPPY: ALL RIGHT, AND NOW WE'RE GOING TO ADD OUR BEAUTIFUL FAT GUMBO CRABS, AND WE'RE GIVE IT A LITTLE SQUEEZE SO SOME OF THAT DELICIOUS CRAB MEAT IS JUMPING OU RIGHT INTO THE GUMBO.
BOBBY: OKAY.
POPPY: NEXT, WE CAN ADD THE OCHRE.
BEAUTIFUL.
ALL RIGHTY, NOW, FRESH CHOPPED GARLIC.
IT'S TIME TO ADD THE HERBS.
THAT'S ALWAYS THYME AND BAY LEAVES.
THAT'S GOOD.
ALL RIGHT, THAT'S PLENTY.
ALL IT HAS TO DO SIMMER FOR AT LEAST 30, OPTIMALLY 45 MINUTES TO AN HOUR.
BOBBY: BUM-BUH-BUH-BAH! POPPY: OH, IT'S BEAUTIFUL.
NOW, WE'RE GOING TO FINISH IT WITH THE SHRIMP, THOSE BEAUTIFUL PEELED SHRIMP STRAIGHT FROM THE GULF OF MEXICO.
NEXT, WE'RE GOING TO ADD THE GREEN ONION, AND NOW YOU KNOW WE'RE GOING TO NEED A GOOD AMOUNT OF SALT BECAUSE THE SHRIMP SUCK THE SALT OUT OF EVERYTHING.
BOBBY: THEY LIVE IN THE SEA.
POPPY: BUT YOU KNOW, WHAT WE REALLY NEED IS WE NEED SOME HEAT.
WE'RE GOING TO ADD THE PEPPER SAUCE.
BOBBY: NOW, I'VE NOTICED THAT YOU GUYS ARE FREAKS FOR PEPPER SAUCE.
THIS GUY ARTHUR, DID YOU TRY HIS SAUCES? POPPY: THERE'S TOO MANY TO TRY.
BOBBY: THAT GUY'S INSANE.
POPPY: ABSOLUTELY, YOU HAVE TO BE.
IF YOU LIVE IN NEW ORLEANS, THAT'S WHAT IT'S ALL ABOUT.
BOBBY: A LITTLE TASTE HERE.
THAT'S GOOD.
POPPY: YOU LIKE THAT? BOBBY: THAT'S DELICIOUS.
POPPY: GOOD.
WELL, YOU THINK IT'S GOOD.
I KNOW IT'S DELICIOUS, BU LET'S GO DOWN TO THE BAR AND SEE WHAT THEY THINK DOWN THERE.
BOBBY: HOW'S EVERYBODY DOING? MAN: HERE IS SOMETHING EXCELLENT.
POPPY: IT'S ME.
BOBBY: OH, IS IT YOU? DON'T BE SHY.
WOMAN: MMM.
POPPY: YOU KNEW I COULD COOK THE GUMBO, DIDN'T YOU? THANK YOU, JENNIFER.
OH DARLING, THANK YOU.
BOBBY: NEW ORLEANS IS THE BIRTHPLACE OF JAZZ, AND IF IT HAD A HOME, IT WOULD BE RIGHT HERE IN CONGO SQUARE WHERE SPANISH-CONTROLLED NEW ORLEANS OF THE EARLY 18TH CENTURY ALLOWED AFRICAN SLAVES ONE DAY OFF A WEEK TO BE ABLE TO PLAY MUSIC, DRUMS, DANCE, AND ALL THAT JAZZ.
TODAY NUMEROUS JAZZ CLUBS CAN BE FOUND ALL OVER THE CITY, MANY OF WHICH ARE DOWN HERE ON BOURBON STREET IN THE HEART OF THE FRENCH QUARTER.
ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR IS OWNED BY MAESTRO JAZZ TRUMPETER, IRVIN MAYFIELD.
YOUR EXCELLENCY, GREAT SHOW.
IRVIN: THANK YOU, THANK YOU FOR BEING HERE.
BOBBY: NOW JAZZ MOST KIDS WOULD HAVE PLAYED ROCK-N-ROLL.
IRVIN: IN NEW ORLEANS, IT'S A LITTLE DIFFERENT.
IN NEW ORLEANS, JAZZ IS EVERYWHERE, SO THIS WOULD BE THE TYPE OF TOWN WHERE BEING A CAPTAIN OF THE FOOTBALL TEAM IS NOT THE COOLEST THING.
BEING A DRUM MAJOR OF THE BAND IS THE COOLES POSITION TO HAVE.
MUSIC IN NEW ORLEANS HAS MANY DIFFERENT PURPOSES.
YOU WOULD HAVE PLACES LIKE A FUNKY BUTT HALL, WHICH IS WHERE THE LEGENDARY BUDDY BOLDEN PLAYED, SAID TO BE THE FIRST JAZZ MUSICIAN.
FUNKY BUTT HALL WAS A DANCE HALL AT NIGHT, AND IT WAS A CHURCH ON SUNDAY MORNINGS.
SO, YOU HAVE TO UNDERSTAND THE TYPE OF A COMMUNITY WHERE A PLACE COULD BE A PLACE EVERYBODY'S HANGING OUT AND DRINKING AND HAVING A GOOD TIME, AND THEN ON SUNDAY, IT'S THE PLACE WHERE PEOPLE WORSHIP.
IN NEW ORLEANS, THAT'S NOT STRANGE.
[AUDIENCE APPLAUSE.]
BOBBY: NEXT MORNING AND I BID FAREWELL TO NEW ORLEANS, HEADING NORTHWEST INTO THE BAYOU AND CAJUN COUNTRY.
MY DESTINATION, SOMEWHERE NEAR LAFAYETTE.
THE WORD CAJUN ORIGINATES FROM THE WORD "LE ARCADIAN"' [SPEAKING FRENCH.]
.
THEY WERE FRENCH COLONISTS FROM THE ARCADIAN REGION OF EASTERN CANADA, WHO WERE THE MID 1700'S.
MANY SETTLED HERE IN THIS SWAMPY REGION OF LOUISIANA.
MUCH OF THE BAJOU IS INACCESSIBLE BY LAND AND BY FAR THE BEST WAY TO GET AROUND IS BY BOAT MR LE BLANC, APPARENTLY I'M NOT ALLOWED TO CALL HIM ANYTHING ELSE, HAS AGREED TO GET ME TO MY NEXT DESTINATION.
SO YOU'RE A REAL LIVE CROCODILE HUNTER.
MR.
LE BLANC: YEP.
WELL, I HUNTED FOR 30 YEARS.
I KILLED A LOT OF ALLIGATORS.
BOBBY: IS THAT THE TOOTH OF A BIG ONE? MR.
LE BLANC: THAT'S THE TOOTH FROM ONE OF MY BIG ALLIGATORS.
BOBBY: WOW.
HOW LONG YOU BEEN ACTUALLY OUT HERE? MR.
LE BLANC: I BEEN HEAR FOR 78 YEARS, BORN AND RAISED IN THE SWAMP MOSTLY.
LIVED ALL MY LIFE, RAISED ALL MY KIDS ON WILDLIFE.
WE NEVER BOUGH ANYTHING IN TOWN TOO MUCH.
EVERY YEAR, I'D KILL ME 15, 20, 30 ALLIGATORS A YEAR.
BOBBY: WHAT DO YOU DO WITH ALL THAT MEAT? MR.
LE BLANC: WHEN YOU KILL A BIG ALLIGATOR, YOU HAVE A LOT OF FRIENDS, AND THEY ALL COME IN THE HOUSE TO GET SOME ALLIGATOR MEAT.
BOBBY: WHAT TYPE OF TREES ARE THESE? MR.
LE BLANC: THESE ARE TUPELO GUM TREES WITH THE BIG LEAVES, AND THE OTHER ONE IS THE CYPRUS TREE WITH THE SMALL LEAVES.
BOBBY: OOH LOOK, A CROCODILE.
MR.
LE BLANC: USUALLY, THERE'S ONE RIGHT HERE.
THERE'S ALWAYS ONE ON THAT LOG RIGHT THERE.
BOBBY: AS A VEGETARIAN, I'VE GOT NO PROBLEM WITH YOU KILLING ALLIGATORS, BECAUSE THEY'RE NOT REALLY FRIENDLY, HUH? MR.
LE BLANC: NO, THEY WOULD TAKE YOUR LEG OFF IF YOU LET 'EM.
BOBBY: THE TRIP WOULD BE INCOMPLETE IN THE DEEP SOUTH WITHOUT A LITTLE BIT OF MOONSHINE.
AGED FOR FOUR YEARS IN A BARREL.
MR.
LE BLANC: IN THE OAK BARREL.
BOBBY: OAK BARREL.
HE SAYS IT'S 45%, AND IT FEELS LIKE IT.
THAT'S GOOD STUFF.
DUE TO THE FRENCH AND SURPRISINGLY GERMAN INFLUENCES IN CAJUN COUNTRY, THEY HAVE SOME AMAZING CHARCUTERIES.
AND I'M TOLD THIS IS THE BEST, POCHES.
THIS IS KIND OF LIKE ONE OF THESE JOINTS, WHICH IS HOME COOKING, EVERYTHING'S MADE FRESH, AND THE CLIENTELE SEEM TO EA HERE MORE THAN TWICE A WEEK.
DOES HE COME HERE OFTEN? WOMAN: FIVE DAYS A WEEK.
BOBBY: YOU ORDER SOMETHING DIFFERENT EACH TIME? HE'S GOT LIKE THREE WOMAN: SOME BOUDIN.
BOBBY: SOME BOOTY? DUDLEY: BOUDIN.
BOBBY: WHAT'S BOO DANG? DUDLEY: YOU WAN ME TO SHOW YOU? THIS IS CAJUN, PURE CAJUN.
PATRICK: IT'S A PORK AND RICE SAUSAGE THAT WE MAKE DOWN HERE IN LOUISIANA.
THEY SMOTHER DOWN THE PORK, AND THEY MIX IN THE RICE TO THE COOKED PORK, GROUND PORK, AND THEN THEY STUFF IT BACK INTO THE CASING.
BOBBY: IT'S GOOD.
IT'S ALMOST MOUSSE-Y.
IT'S NOT LIKE IT'S VERY SOFT.
I'M A VEGETARIAN BUT, IT'S GOOD.
PATRICK: YOU'RE A VEGETARIAN? MAN, YOU'RE IN THE WRONG PLACE IF YOU'RE A VEGETARIAN.
BOBBY: THE "CHIN-MAN" LUCKS OUT AGAIN.
THIS IS PATRICK MOULD, HE'S AN EXPERT ON CAJUN CUISINE AND HE'S HERE BUYING INGREDIENTS FOR A MEAL HE'S COOKING AT THE LOCAL SPEAK EASY.
PATRICK: HAVE YOU HAD CRACKLINGS SINCE YOU'VE BEEN HERE? BOBBY: OKAY, I'M GOING TO GO EVEN FURTHER AS A VEGETARIAN.
PATRICK: YOU ARE DEFINITELY IN TROUBLE, MAN.
BOBBY: I'M IN TROUBLE.
WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO COOK FOR US? PATRICK: I'M GOING TO DO A VERY TRADITIONAL CAJUN JAMBALAYA, WHICH IS A SMOTHERED PORK AND ANDOUILLE SAUSAGE SIMMERED IN A CAST IRON POT.
BOBBY: THAT SOUNDS RUSTIC.
PATRICK: VERY RUSTIC.
[INAUDIBLE CROWD CHATTER.]
BOBBY: PATRICK IS GOING TO TEACH US HOW TO MAKE A FABULOUS JAMBALAYA, WHICH IS A PAELLA IN MY MIND.
PATRICK: SOME PEOPLE BELIEVE IT'S BASED ON THE SPANISH PAELLA.
WE'RE GOING TO START BY CUTTING UP SOME ANDOUILLE THA WE GOT AT POCHES.
BOBBY: YEAH, LIKE THIS? PATRICK: SPLIT I INTO QUARTER MOONS.
BOBBY: OKAY.
PATRICK: WE'RE GOING TO GO AHEAD AND SEASON UP OUR PORK.
WE'RE GOING TO SEASON IT, WE GOT CAYENNE, SALT, GARLIC, RED PEPPER, BLACK PEPPER.
BOBBY: IS THAT ENOUGH? PATRICK: WE'RE GOING TO GO AHEAD AND IT IN, PERFECT.
BOBBY: THAT'S WHAT, JUST OLIVE OIL? PATRICK: THAT'S A LITTLE BI OF OLIVE OIL THAT WE'RE GOING TO HEAT UP, AND WE'RE GOING TO ADD OUR PORK.
[SIZZLING.]
WE'RE GOING TO STAR THE BROWNING PROCESS, AND THEN WE'RE GOING TO GO AHEAD AND ADD OUR ANDOUILLE.
BOBBY: LOOK AT YOU GO.
SO YOU DON'T COOK FOR LIKE ONE PERSON IN THIS STATE, DO YOU? PATRICK: NO, NO.
BOBBY: THIS FEEDS LIKE 25 PEOPLE.
PATRICK: GOING GOOD.
BOBBY: LOOK AT THAT.
PATRICK: ISN' THAT LOOKING NICE? BOBBY: I LISTEN TO THE SOUND OF CARAMELIZING SAUSAGE, AND EVEN AS A MUSLIM, I'M THINKING, LOOKS GOOD.
PATRICK: WE'RE GOING TO ADD OUR ONION, CELERY, BELL PEPPER, OUR GARLIC, AND ALL OUR SEASONINGS.
BOBBY: IS THA CALLED THE HOLY TRINITY? PATRICK: THAT'S CALLED THE HOLY TRINITY.
BOBBY: I GOT A STUPID QUESTION.
PATRICK: ALL RIGHT, THERE'S NOT STUPID QUESTIONS.
BOBBY: I KNOW, SEE THAT'S WHAT I LIKE.
YOU'RE A NICE MAN.
IN LIKE A PAELLA OR LIKE IN A RISOTTO, THIS IS COOKED OUT FIRST.
PATRICK: RIGHT.
BOBBY: NOW, WHA YOU WANT TO DO? YOU WANT TO GET THE FLAVORS OF THE SAUSAGE AND THE FAT, INTO THE FAT, AND PATRICK: WHAT PEOPLE DON'T UNDERSTAND ABOU CAJUN COOKING, IT'S NOT ABOUT THE SPICES.
IT'S ABOUT THE FLAVOR THAT'S DEVELOPED IN THE POT.
YOU LOOK DOWN HERE A THE BOTTOM OF THIS POT.
BOBBY: CARAMELIZATION.
PATRICK: RIGHT, AND THAT'S ANY GOOD COOKING.
OUR FOOD IS ABOUT FLAVOR FIRST, THEN IT'S ABOUT THE SPICE.
THE SPICE SHOULD ACCEN THE FLAVOR OF WHATEVER I IS WE'RE COOKING.
PEOPLE HAVE IT BACKWARDS OUTSIDE OF LOUISIANA.
THEY ALWAYS WANT TO SPICE THE HELL OUT OF EVERYTHING AND CALL IT CAJUN.
THAT'S NOT THE CASE.
BOBBY: YOU GET THAT? JUST DON'T BUY THE LITTLE SPICE MIXTURE OF CAJUN.
GET THE FLAVOR FIRST AND THEN ACCENT IT AND HIGHLIGH THOSE FLAVORS WITH THOSE SPICES.
PATRICK: YOU GOT IT.
WE'RE GOING TO ADD SOME GARLIC TO THE MIX, AND THEN WE'RE GOING TO ADD A LITTLE BIT OF TABASCO.
BOBBY: I'M GOING TO TIDY THIS UP FOR YOU.
PATRICK: THANK YOU, SIR.
BOBBY: OKAY, SO NOW WHAT? PATRICK: NOW WE'RE GOING TO GO AHEAD AND ADD OUR RICE.
BOBBY: OKAY.
PATRICK: SO ADD THE RICE INTO THE POT.
ALL RIGHT.
WHAT'S GOING TO HAPPEN IS WE'RE GOING TO ADD OUR STOCK, AND THE RICE IS GOING TO ABSORB ALL THESE DIFFEREN FLAVORS, SO YOU CAN COME ON, BRING THE STOCK.
BOBBY: YES, BOSS.
TELL ME WHEN.
HOW MUCH? PATRICK: JUS KEEP POURING, OKAY, LITTLE BIT MORE.
IT'S NOT LIKE A RISOTTO.
KEEP GOING, KEEP GOING.
ALL RIGHT, GOOD.
BOBBY: WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? HOW MUCH STOCK DO YOU ADD IN RELATIONSHIP TO THE AMOUNT OF PATRICK: YOU WAN ABOUT AN INCH AND A HALF, TWO INCHES OF BULB WHERE THE RICE STARTS.
BOBBY: SO I'VE GOT A QUESTION.
YOU SEE, NOW, EVERYTHING ABOUT THIS FOOD AND IT'S LIKE IT'S GERMAN, IT'S FRENCH, IT'S AFRICAN, IT'S PATRICK: ITALIAN.
BOBBY: ITALIAN.
PATRICK: SPANISH.
BOBBY: SPANISH.
PATRICK: IT'S ALL THESE COMBINATIONS.
IT'S ALL THESE CULTURAL INFLUENCES THAT MAKE THIS CUISINE SO UNIQUE.
ALL RIGHT, SO WE'RE GOING TO COVER THE POT AND THEN JUS LOWER THE FIRE AND ALLOW I TO STEAM FOR ABOUT 10 MINUTES.
HAVE A LITTLE TASTE.
BOBBY: THA TASTES GOOD TO ME NOW.
WHY CAN'T YOU EAT THAT NOW? PATRICK: WELL, JUST COOK THE RICE A LITTLE BIT MORE.
BOBBY: IT'S GO THAT AL DENTE THING, THAT'S KIND OF LIKE A SEMI-RISOTTO PAELLA.
PATRICK: YEAH, BUT IT'S NOT A SEMI-RISOTTO PAELLA.
IT'S A JAMBALAYA.
BOBBY: SO LIKE YOU'RE SUPPOSED TO MIX IT UP, BECAUSE THE SPANISH WOULD BE UPSET WITH YOU FOR THAT STUFF.
PATRICK: WELL, YOU KNOW, THE SPANISH AREN'T HERE RIGHT NOW, SO [LAUGHTER.]
WE'RE GOING TO GO AHEAD AND CHECK, SEE HOW THE RICE IS DOING.
BOBBY: THAT'S LOOKING GOOD.
PATRICK: YEAH, THAT'S LOOKING REAL GOOD.
YOU SEE HOW THE RICE POPPED, THE KERNELS OPENED UP? BOBBY: YEAH.
PATRICK: THAT'S WHA YOU'RE LOOKING FOR IN A GOOD JAMBALAYA.
BOBBY: PATRICK, YOU'VE DONE A FANTASTIC JOB.
PATRICK: THANK YOU, MAN.
BOBBY: NO, REALLY.
THIS IS GOOD EATING.
THAT'S WHAT I LIKE, WHEN YOU GUYS SAY THAT.
PATRICK: GOOD EATING, BABY.
BOBBY: GOOD EATING.
DON'T BE SHY? WHAT DO YOU THINK? MAN: EXCELLENT.
BOBBY: YEE-HAW BOYS, HO! I TRAVEL BACK TO THE MIGHTY MISSISSIPPI AND HITCH A RIDE ON A WORKING BOAT HEADING NORTH.
AFTER CROSSING THE STATE LINE INTO MISSISSIPPI STATE I AM HEADING FOR THE OLD SOUTHERN RIVER TOWNS OF NATCHEZ AND VICKSBURG.
THIS HAS ALWAYS BEEN A WORKING RIVER, THESE DAYS OVER 60% OF ALL THE GRAIN EXPORTED FROM THE U.
S.
IS SHIPPED DOWN THE MISSISSIPPI.
THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER IS THE LONGEST RIVER IN THE UNITED STATES STRETCHING 2,200 MILES ACROSS 10 STATES FROM MINNESOTA DOWN TO LOUISIANA.
[PLAYS HARMONICA.]
CARLA JENKINS OWNS THIS BOAT AND WAS BORN AND RAISED ON THE RIVER.
YOU GOT YOURSELF A PRETTY GOOD JOB.
CARLA: YES, I DO.
BOBBY: ROLLING DOWN THE RIVER.
IT SOUNDS LIKE A CREDENCE CLEARWATER SONG.
CARLA: YES, IT DOES.
BOBBY: YOU'RE QUITE THE SOUTHERN LADY, BUT YOU'VE GOT A MAN'S JOB.
CARLA: I DO, I DO.
MY FATHER STARTED THIS BUSINESS IN THE 1950'S, AND INSTEAD OF GOING HOME AFTER SCHOOL AND PLAYING IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD, I CAME OVER HERE ON THE RIVER.
BOBBY: HOW MANY TONS A YEAR DO YOU DO? CARLA: WE PROBABLY RUN FOUR, FIVE, SIX HUNDRED BARGES A YEAR THROUGH HERE.
BOBBY: YOU SEE, THAT'S 300 MILLION TONS UP AND DOWN THE MISSISSIPPI A YEAR.
CARLA: EASILY.
BOBBY: EASILY.
CARLA: IT'S BILLIONS OF DOLLARS OF GOODS.
BILLIONS.
BOBBY: OKAY.
THANK YOU KINDLY.
WHEN I MAKE LANDFALL IN NATCHEZ I DISCOVER IT IS MOS DEFINITELY A TOWN OF TWO HALVES.
FIRSTLY THERE'S THE SLIGHTLY SEEDY BIT DOWN ON THE WATERFRONT.
NATCHEZ USED TO BE THE MOST NOTORIOUS LINING THE BANKS OF THE MISSISSIPPI, ATTRACTING GAMBLERS, KNIFE FIGHTERS.
IT'S ACTUALLY WHERE JIM BOWIE SLICED A MAN OPEN RIGHT THERE ON THE BANKS OF THE RIVER, AND THE PLACE WOULD BE FILLED WITH TONS OF SALOONS AND BARS, BUT THIS IS THE ONLY ONE LEFT.
THEN THERE'S THE POSH, AND I DO MEAN POSH BIT UP ON THE TOP OF THE HILL.
IN THE MIDDLE OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY, THE CITY BECAME THE HOME OF EXTREMELY WEALTHY SOUTHERN PLANTERS, WHO OWNED VAS TRACTS OF LAND WHERE THEY GREW LARGE CROPS OF COTTON AND SUGAR CANE USING SLAVE LABOR.
THESE CROPS WERE THEN SHIPPED DOWN THE MISSISSIPPI TO THE REST OF THE U.
S.
AND ONTO EUROPE.
THESE PLANTATIONS OWNERS MADE HUGE FORTUNES AND BUILT THESE GRAND HOUSES TO SHOW OFF THEIR INCREDIBLE WEALTH.
BUILT IN 1856, DUNLEITH IS ONE OF ALMOST 700 OF THESE BEAUTIFUL MANSIONS DOTTED THROUGHOUT NATCHEZ.
THIS HOUSE KIND OF REMINDS ME OF TARA FROM "GONE WITH THE WIND.
" TAKES YOU BACK IN TIME.
TERRY TROVATO TELLS ME MORE ABOUT THE OPULENT LIFE LIVED IN THESE AMAZING HOUSES.
WHEN WAS THIS HOUSE BUILT? TERRY: IT WAS BUILT IN 1856 BY BOBBY: 1856.
TERRY: YES, SIR.
BOBBY: PLANTATION HOUSE OR TOWNHOUSE? TERRY: IT'S CONSIDERED A TOWNHOUSE.
THE PLANTATIONS WERE IN LOUISIANA ACROSS THE RIVER, BUT THEY WANTED A LAVISH LIFESTYLE AND LAVISH ENTERTAINING, AND IN THE 19TH CENTURY PRIOR TO THE WAR, THERE WAS A LOT OF THAT, SO THEY CAME TO NATCHEZ AND BUIL THESE HOMES.
BOBBY: THEY TELL ME THERE ARE MORE MILLIONAIRES HERE THAN IN NEW YORK CITY.
TERRY: BECAUSE THEY MADE SO MUCH MONEY WITH THEIR COTTON PLANTATIONS.
WHEN THEY CALLED IT KING COTTON, THEY WEREN'T KIDDING.
BOBBY: THAT'S RIGHT, BU THEN YOU GOT CHEAP LABOR, OR FREE LABOR.
TERRY: WELL, YES, THEY HAD FREE LABOR IN THE FIELDS.
THAT'S EXACTLY CORRECT.
BOBBY: OKAY.
THE ONLY BAD PART OF THAT FORMULA WAS THAT.
THIS IS OPULENCE AT IT'S FINEST.
TERRY: AS IT WOULD HAVE LOOKED IN 1856 WHEN THE HOUSE WAS BUILT.
THE MANTLES ARE ITALIAN MARBLE.
THEY WERE BROUGH HERE FROM ITALY.
THEY DID THINGS LIKE THA TO DRESS UP THESE HOUSES.
BOBBY: THEY COULDN'T GE DECENT WORKMEN TO CUT THE CURTAINS THE RIGHT SIZE? TERRY: BOBBY, THA WAS A SHOW OF WEALTH.
THAT'S CALLED PUDDLING THE DRAPES.
IT'S SAYING, "WE HAVE SO MUCH MONEY WE CAN BUY MORE DRAPE THAN WE NEED.
" BOBBY: THAT'S CALLED BAD WORKMANSHIP IN MY WORLD.
THEN THE ARCHITECTURE, THE ACTUAL FRAME OF THE HOUSE AND DESIGN OF HIT.
TERRY: IT WAS ALL GREEK REVIVAL.
IT HAS 26 COLUMNS GOING ALL THE WAY AROUND.
IT'S CALLED FULLY COLLIMATED.
THAT'S THE STYLE THEY WANTED.
IT'S ALL GREEK REVIVAL, AND IT'S ALL ACTUALLY BRICK.
BOBBY: HOW MUCH DID A HOUSE LIKE THIS COST? TERRY: IT SOLD IN 1859 FOR $30,000, AND THAT WOULD BE THE EQUIVALENT TODAY OF ABOUT $755,000.
BOBBY: THAT'S IT FOR THIS FOUR-BEDROOM DELUXE JOIN WITH 40 ACRES? TERRY: THAT'S EXACTLY RIGHT.
IT SOLD FOR $30,000 IN 1859? BOBBY: HOW DID THEY COME TO AMERICA AND INVEST A HOUSE VERY CHEAP, WHY NOT? THESE RICH WHITE OWNERS WITH THEIR FRENCH CHEF'S WERE HEAVILY INFLUENCED BY THE EUROPEAN TASTE FOR SWEETS AND PASTRIES, AND THESE TRADITIONS ENDUE TO THIS DAY, AS SHELLY RODGERS EXPLAINS.
SHELLY: WHEN I THINK ABOUT THESE DESSERTS, I THINK ABOUT MY GRANDMOTHER'S KITCHEN, WALKING IN, SMELLING ALL THESE SWEET SMELLS.
WE HAVE A MISSISSIPPI MUD PIE.
BOBBY: THAT'S RICH, HUH? SHELLY: IT'S VERY RICH, IT'S ALL RICH.
SO WHAT DO YOU THINK? BOBBY: IT'S DELICIOUS.
SHELLY: THEN, WE HAVE OUR WHITE CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDING? BOBBY: GOD, THAT'S GOOD.
[LAUGHTER.]
.
THE PROBLEM IS IT'S ADDICTIVE BECAUSE YOU'VE NEVER TASTED ANYTHING LIKE THAT.
WHAT IS IT? IT'S LIKE WHEN I TASTE THIS, BOARDING SCHOOL, FIRSTLY, SO WE'VE GOT LIKE A REAL LOW STANDARD TO START WITH.
SHELLY: OKAY.
BOBBY: OKAY, BUT THEN THIS I'M SORRY, THIS IS PROBABLY THE BEST BREAD PUDDING I'VE EVER HAD.
IT REALLY IS AMAZING HOW FOR ONE SHORT MOMENT IN TIME, BECAUSE OF A SET OF VERY SPECIFIC CIRCUMSTANCES, SO MUCH WEALTH CAN GRAVITATE TO ONE PLACE.
THE PRIVILEGED WORLD OF THE PLANTATION OWNERS CAME CRASHING DOWN AT THE OUTSET OF THE CIVIL WAR.
THE SOUTHERN ECONOMY WAS DEVASTATED AS THIS IS WHERE MOST OF THE FIGHTING OCCURRED.
AN HOUR NORTH OF NATCHEZ IS VICKSBURG.
THIS TOWN WAS PIVOTAL DURING THE CIVIL WAR PURELY FOR IT'S LOCATION AND TOPOGRAPHY.
ALTHOUGH THE WAR WAS ABOU FREEING THE SLAVES IN THE SOUTH, IT WAS AS MUCH ABOU THE SOUTH'S REFUSAL TO PAY THE NEW TRADE TAXES ON GOODS BEING EXPORTED VIA THE MISSISSIPPI, WHICH WERE BEING LEVIED BY THE RECENTLY INSTALLED LINCOLN GOVERNMENT IN THE NORTH.
ABE LINCOLN SAID THA VICKSBURG IS THE KEY, AND JEFFERSON DAVIS KNEW I WAS VITAL TO HOLD THE CITY FOR THE CONFEDERACY TO SURVIVE.
LOCAL HISTORIAN DAVE MAGGIO TAKES UP THIS SAD STORY OF BROTHER FIGHTING BROTHER.
DAVE: THIS RIVER WAS VITALLY IMPORTANT IN THAT IN 1863, THERE WERE NO BASIC HIGHWAYS.
THIS WAS THE HIGHWAY.
WHEN YOU BROUGHT YOUR PRODUCT FROM ILLINOIS, INDIANA, THE NORTHERN PART OF THE UNITED STATES DOWN THROUGH NEW ORLEANS TO THE REST OF THE WORLD, IT CAME DOWN THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER.
BOBBY: SO THIS PLACE RIGH HERE DICTATED THE OUTCOME OF THE WAR.
DAVE: YES, IN MANY SENSES, EXACTLY RIGHT.
THIS AREA IS THE HIGHEST AREA FROM MEMPHIS ALL THE WAY TO BATON ROUGE, SO IN ORDER TO CONTROL THAT RIVER FOR GENERAL GRANT TO GET HIS IRONCLAD SHIPS DOWN IN FRONT OF VICKSBURG, HIS MEN HAD TO RUN THESE BATTERIES, SO YOU CAN IMAGINE THE AMOUN OF FIREPOWER THAT WAS SITTING ON THESE HILLS THAT WAS FIRING AND PROTECTING THE CITY.
THIS IS THE COURTHOUSE.
IT WOULD HAVE BEEN HERE DURING THE CAMPAIGN IN THE BATTLE FOR VICKSBURG.
IT WAS USED AS A HOSPITAL FOR THE SOLDIERS THAT WERE CAPTURED.
BOBBY: WHEN I THINK OF THE CIVIL WAR, I THINK CARNAGE.
A LOT OF PEOPLE DIED.
DAVE: DURING THE CAMPAIGN HERE IN VICKSBURG, THERE WERE ABOUT 20,000 MEN THAT DIED IN THIS CAMPAIGN.
THE ONES THAT WERE KILLED HERE IN VICKSBURG WERE BURIED IN A NATIONAL CEMETERY NORTH OF TOWN.
BOBBY: VICKSBURG MARKS THE SOUTHERN EXTENT OF THE MISSISSIPPI DELTA, A FLA ALLUVIAL PLAIN BETWEEN THE YAZOO AND THE MISSISSIPPI RIVERS.
I'M TRAVELING UP TO THE AGRICULTURAL TOWN OF GREENWOOD.
THIS IS THE AREA WHERE MUCH OF THE FOOD PRODUCED IN THE DELTA STARTS IT'S JOURNEY DOWN THE MISSISSIPPI.
A COMBINATION OF RICH SOIL AND MILD TEMPERATURES MAKES THIS THE EPICENTER OF AGRICULTURE IN THE UNITED STATES, COVERING MORE THAN FOUR MILLION ACRES.
HISTORICALLY, THIS IS THE HOME OF COTTON.
SADLY WITH THE CHANGE IN WORLD COMMODITY PRICES IT IS NO LONGER ECONOMIC TO GROW MUCH COTTON HERE ANYMORE, BUT WITH SOIL THIS FERTILE THERE IS ALWAYS A BUCK OR TWO TO BE MADE ON THIS LAND.
DUDLEY PLEASANTS MANAGES THE WHITTINGTON FARM JUST OUTSIDE GREENWOOD.
SO DUDLEY, THIS WOULD HAVE BEEN COTTON FIELDS IN THE OLD DAYS.
DUDLEY: YES, JUST ABOU EVERYWHERE AROUND HERE HAD COTTON GROWN IN IT, AND OF COURSE THE BOTTOM LINE IS WHA WE'RE ALL CONCERNED ABOUT, THE MOST MONEY WE CAN MAKE, SO WE HAD TO KIND OF GO WITH THE TIME.
BOBBY: NOW, YOU CAN' COMPETE WITH COTTON BECAUSE THE CHINESE HAVE TAKEN OVER.
DUDLEY: THAT'S THE WAY IT GOES.
NOTHING WE CAN DO ABOUT THAT.
RIGHT NOW, IT'S A SPLI BETWEEN CORN AND SOY BEANS.
BOBBY: SO THIS IS WHA THE FUSS IS ALL ABOUT? THIS RIGHT HERE? DUDLEY: THIS IS IT, BOBBY.
THIS IS KNOWN AS FIELD CORN, ROUNDUP-READY FIELD CORN.
BOBBY: OKAY, CAN I TAKE SOME OF THIS BACK.
DUDLEY: SURE, SURE GET YOU BUCKET.
BOBBY: I CAN MAKE A MEAL OUT OF THIS.
DUDLEY: OKAY.
BOBBY: THE FARM IS OWNED BY BILLY WHITTINGTON AND HIS WIFE AUBREY.
THEY ARE AVID COLLECTORS OF RURAL ANTIQUES AND MEMORABILIA AND ACTUALLY MOVED THIS WHOLE HOUSE BRICK BY BRICK FROM THE MIDDLE OF TOWN WHERE I WAS ABOUT TO BE DEMOLISHED.
YOU MAY THINK YOU RECOGNIZE IT AND YOU WOULD BE RIGHT, BECAUSE THIS HOUSE AND HALF OF GRAND BOULEVARD WAS USED FOR THE LOCATION OF THE MOVIE "THE HELP.
" BILLY AND AUBREY'S FRIEND AND SOUTHERN FOOD QUEEN, MARTHA FOOSE USES SOME OF THE ANTIC GRINDING EQUIPMEN TO PRODUCE SOME OF THE INGREDIENTS FOR HER FOOD.
THEIR PASSION FOR SAVING BUILDINGS DIDN'T JUST STOP A THIS PLANTATION HOUSE.
THEY'VE ALSO MANAGED TO PRESERVE A WHOLE COMMUNITY OF SHARECROPPER HOMES IN THEIR ORIGINAL STATE AND NOW REN THEM OUT AS GUEST HOUSES.
SYLVESTER HOOVER WAS BROUGHT UP ON THE FARM AND TELLS ME A LITTLE MORE ABOUT THE HISTORY OF THE PLACE.
SYLVESTER: THESE WERE SOME OF THE HOUSES THAT WHERE PEOPLE LIVED IN, SLAVERY REALLY LIVED IN THESE HOUSES, AND AFTER CIVIL WAR, YOU KNOW, WE GOT NOT SLAVERY, BUT WE GOT TO BE SHARE-CROPPERS.
THAT'S REALLY NOT FREE.
IT'S STILL EVERYTHING DICTATED BY THE BOSS MAN OR THE WHITE MAN.
MY HOUSE HAD 11 PEOPLES LIVING IN IT, AND IT WAS A SHACK LIKE THIS.
I WAS BORN POOR.
ALL MY LIFE, I'VE BEEN POOR.
I THOUGHT I WAS SUPPOSED TO BE POOR.
BOBBY: TELL ME A LITTLE BI ABOUT YOUR TIMES BEFORE THE CIVIL RIGHTS.
SYLVESTER: BEFORE THE CIVIL RIGHTS, WE HAD NO RIGHTS.
IF YOU WAS A BLACK MALE, YOU HAD TO BE IN SOMEBODY'S COTTON FIELD WORKING.
THEY WOULD GIVE YOU A YEAR IN JAIL JUST FOR NO GOING TO WORK.
MY SISTER HAD POLIO IN ONE LEG, AND SHE WOULD HAVE TO PICK AND CHOP COTTON.
SHE COULDN'T STAY HOME.
COULDN'T NOBODY STAY HOME.
IT WAS TERRIBLE.
IT WAS A TERRIBLE SITUATION, AND I'M THE YOUNGES OF NINE SIBLINGS.
MOM WOULD SEND HER GIRLS TO CHICAGO WHEN THEY GE 13 YEARS OLD BECAUSE SHE DIDN'T WANT THE BOSS MAN TO FLIRT WITH HER DAUGHTERS.
WHATEVER THE BOSS MAN TELL YOU, YOU WOULD HAVE TO DO IT.
WE NEVER SAID NO.
THE RULE THEY HAD HERE IN THE MISSISSIPPI DELTA SAID ONE WHITE MAN COULD CONTROL 500 BLACKS.
YOU WOULD PICK COTTON ALL DAY LONG, AND THIS PLACE YOU WOULD SEE 100 PEOPLES OUT THERE PICKING COTTON RIGH NOW, AND THEY WOULD BE DRAGGING THOSE BAGS ON THEY SHOULDER, AND THOSE BAGS WOULD WEIGH 150-60 POUNDS, AND THEY WOULD SING BLUES TO KEEP THEY'RE MIND OFF THAT BACK-BREAKING WORK.
AND WHEN THE BOSS MAN COME UP, THEY WOULD QUI SINGING THEIR BLUES, AND THEY WOULD START HUMMING "MMM-MMM-MMM.
" THE BOSS MAN SAID, "WHY ARE YOU HUMMING?" HE WOULD SAY, "I DON' WANT THE DEVIL TO KNOW WHA I'M TALKING ABOUT.
" IN REALITY, TELLING EVERYBODY ELSE THE BOSS MAN IS HERE.
THEY HAD MESSAGE IN THEY MUSIC.
BOBBY: SO HOW IS IT NOW? SYLVESTER: NOW, IT'S DIFFERENT BUT STILL THE SAME.
IF I GOT PLENTY OF MONEY, I'M FINE, BUT IF I'M LIKE ME, BROKE, I'M KIND OF SEPARATE OR DIFFERENT.
YOU KNOW, BU THAT'S THE WAY IT GOES.
BOBBY: BILLY HAS TURNED UP A THE SHARE CROPPER HOUSES WITH SOME BUDDIES FOR A BIT OF SOUL FOOD SO THIS IS A GREA OPPORTUNITY FOR ME TO SEE HOW MARTHA COOKS SOME ICONIC SOUTHERN DISHES.
AWARD-WINNING COOKBOOK AUTHOR, MISS MARTHA, IS GOING TO TEACH US CLASSIC SOUTHERN DISHES OF GRITS, CATFISH, AND FRIED GREEN TOMATOES.
FIRST MARTHA ADDS A MIXTURE OF HALF AND HALF WHICH IS HALF CREAM AND HALF MILK TO SOME HOT SALTED WATER BEFORE I ADD THE GROUND CORNMEAL.
MARTHA: WE'RE GOING TO PUT A LITTLE BIT OF FRESH THYME IN THERE.
BOBBY: OKAY.
MARTHA: ALL RIGHT, NOW WE'RE GOING TO COOK OUR FRIED GREEN TOMATOES, PUT THE TOP ON, LET THA COOK ABOUT 20 MINUTES, AND THEN WE'LL TURN I OFF AND LET THEM STAND SO THEY CAN BLOOM.
BOBBY: I LIKE THA IDEA OF BLOOMING.
IT'S A NICE THING.
MARTHA: THEY PUFF UP REALLY NICELY.
SO, FOR OUR FRIED GREEN TOMATOES, FIRST THING WE'RE GOING TO DO IS MAKE A LITTLE BUTTERMILK AND EGG WASH.
NICE LITTLE EGG HERE FROM MY FRIEND, MISS HATTIE, AND WE'RE GOING TO USE SOME BUTTERMILK IN THIS.
YOU WANT TO GIVE THIS A QUICK LITTLE BEAT? WE'RE GOING TO SEASON UP OUR FLOUR.
WE'LL PUT JUST A LITTLE BIT OF BLACK PEPPER IN HERE, AND THEN WE'LL PUT A LITTLE BIT OF HOT PAPRIKA IN HERE.
SO LET'S CUT UP OUR TOMATOES BOBBY: THIS IS ACTUALLY A EUROPEAN DISH FINDING A USE FOR UNRIPPENED TOMATOES THAT HAS BECOME ASSOCIATED WITH THE SOUTH.
OKAY.
MARTHA: THIS IS REALLY SOR OF SHARECROPPER TYPE FOOD, AND SO MOST OF THESE INGREDIENTS CAN BE FOUND WITHIN HALF A MILE OF WHERE WE'RE STANDING RIGHT NOW.
YOU KNOW, WE REALLY KIND OF HAVE THA "MAKE DO WITH WHAT YOU HAVE" MENTALITY AND REALLY TAKE SOME KIND OF HUMBLE INGREDIENTS AND TRY TO ELEVATE THEM.
WE'RE GOING TO DREDGE THEM IN A LITTLE BIT OF FLOUR THA WE'VE SEASONED WITH PAPRIKA AND SALT AND PEPPER, THEN WE'RE GOING TO DIP THEM IN OUR EGG WASH, AND THEN INTO OUR CORNMEAL THAT WE GROUND WITH BILLY AND ALBERT.
BOBBY: IT'S, IN FACT, THE AFRICAN TRADITION OF FRYING FOODS BROUGHT OVER BY SLAVES THAT IS ALSO THOUGH TO HAVE GIVEN THIS DISH ITS SOUTHERN TOUCH.
OKAY, NOW THE FISH.
MARTHA: SO FOR OUR U.
S.
FARM-RAISED CATFISH, WE'RE GOING TO TAKE THESE, AND LET'S CUT THEM INTO SOME SMALLER PIECES.
BOBBY: YOU WANT THEM IN HALF LIKE THAT? MARTHA: THAT WOULD BE GREAT, AND IT'S SUCH A GREAT FISH BECAUSE IT'S REALLY MILD IN FLAVOR, AND PEOPLE THAT ARE KIND OF NOT INTO OILY FISH OR SOMETHING THAT'S REALLY STRONG, THEN YOU CAN KIND OF FLAVOR IT HOWEVER.
BOBBY: I'M GRABBING YOU.
MARTHA: HOWEVER YOU'D LIKE.
BOBBY: MY GOODNESS.
MARTHA: A TRUE SOUTHERN GENTLEMAN, HERE HE IS.
BOBBY: THAT'S RIGHT.
MARTHA: ALL RIGHT, SO WHA WE'RE GOING TO DO NOW IS WE'RE JUST GOING TO DREDGE OUR FISH RIGHT INTO OUR CORNMEAL.
I THINK YOU'LL REALLY FIND THAT THIS FRESHLY GROUND MEAL HAS SUCH A NUTTY KIND OF TASTE TO IT, AND WE CAN COOK OUR TOMATOES AT THE SAME TIME.
BOBBY: OKAY.
MARTHA: SO WE CAN PUT THESE RIGHT IN OUR COOKER HERE.
BOBBY: OKAY.
MARTHA: THESE ARE GOING TO TAKE ABOUT NINE MINUTES OR SO AND ABOUT TWO OR THREE MINUTES ON THE TOMATOES.
BOBBY: OK, I'VE JUST GO TIME TO NIP INTO ONE OF THESE SHARECROPPER HOUSE'S WHERE SYLVESTER'S WIFE MARY IS COOKING ANOTHER ICONIC SOUTHERN DISH.
MARY! MARY: YES.
BOBBY: I HEAR YOU'RE THE QUEEN OF FRIED CHICKEN.
MARY: CORRECT, CORRECT.
BOBBY: I'VE COME IN HERE TO LEARN.
MARY: LET'S GET STARTED.
I'M GOING TO SHOW YOU WHAT WE GOING TO DO.
YOU TAKE YOUR BLACK PEPPER.
YOU SHAKE IT ON EACH ONE OF YOUR CHICKEN.
YOU SHAKE IT ALL OVER THERE LIKE THAT.
BOBBY: YOU SHAKE, RATTLE, AND ROLL.
MARY: LET'S SHAKE IT NOW.
YOU SEE HOW PRETTY THE CHICKEN LOOKING ALREADY.
NOW WE'RE GOING TO TAKE THE SALT.
WE'RE GOING TO TAKE IT.
YOU GOT TO BE CAREFUL WITH THAT SALT.
BOBBY: YOU DON' WANT TOO MUCH SALT.
MARY: NO, NO.
BOBBY: OKAY SO SAL AND PEPPER, THAT'S IT.
MARY: YES, SALT AND PEPPER, AND ALSO BOBBY, YOU GOT TO COOK WITH LOVE.
IF YOU DON'T COOK WITH LOVE, YOUR FOOD AIN'T GOING TO TASTE WORTH NOTHING.
YOU GOT IT, BOBBY? BOBBY: MMM-HMM.
MARY: YOU SURE, BOBBY? BOBBY: CALL ME BOBBY LOVE.
MARY: WOO! SEE BOBBY, LOOK, THIS BROWN PAPER BAG, LOOK AT THAT.
LOOK AT THAT FLOUR IN THAT.
THEN, YOU KNOW WHAT? YOU SEE THIS FLOUR IN THIS BAG? WE'RE GOING TO DROP THE CHICKEN IN HERE.
WE'RE GOING TO THIS A THIGH, THIS A BREAST, TWO WINGS.
BOBBY: AFTER WRONGLY ASSOCIATED WITH SOUTHERN AFRICAN AMERICANS SIMPLY BECAUSE THEY WERE ALLOWED TO KEEP CHICKENS ON SMALL PLOTS.
IN FACT, THIS IS ANOTHER EUROPEAN DISH.
MARY: YOU GONNA OWN THIS BOBBY! BOBBY: I'M GONNA OWN THIS! I'M GOING TO COOK IT WITH LOVE! MARY: YES! BOBBY: BY FRYING THE CHICKENS IN A TRADITIONAL WAY, THIS AFRICAN INFLUENCED APPROACH BECAME SYNONYMOUS WITH THE SOUTH.
SO YOU GO SKIN SIDE FIRST OR MARY: INSIDE.
YOUR SKIN YOU PUT THE INSIDE FIRST.
BOBBY: FIRST? MARY: HERE WE GOT A WING.
WE GOING TO SHAKE IT, TAKE THAT WING, AND FOLD THAT WING, DROP, YOU CAN MAKE THEM FLARE UP IN THERE, STAY UNDER.
BOBBY: OKAY, THAT'S A GREAT TIP, MARY.
MARY: YEAH, THANK YOU, BOBBY.
BOBBY: BECAUSE A LOT OF PEOPLE DON'T KNOW HOW TO FRY CHICKEN CORRECTLY.
MARY: FOR REAL? BOBBY: YEAH.
MARY: WOO, LOOK A THAT SKIN, BOBBY.
A LOT OF PEOPLE DON'T LIKE THAT SKIN, BUT YOU KNOW.
BOBBY: THAT SKIN'S GREAT WHEN IT'S CRISPY.
MARY: OH, THERE, WATCH THERE, BOBBY.
TALKING TO YOU, DANCING.
BOBBY: OH, I LOVE THAT.
MARY: OOH, LOOK AT THAT, BOBBY.
LET'S DROP ANOTHER ONE IN THERE.
YOU SEE THE CHICKEN? BOBBY: ART IN PROGRESS.
MARY: GIVE ME A FLOUR-HAND HIGH FIVE.
AY, CHECK IT OUT.
COOKING WITH LOVE.
BOBBY: MMM.
MARY: THAT'S BEAUTIFUL.
BOBBY: HOW DO YOU KNOW WHEN TO TURN IT, BECAUSE YOU CAN'T SEE ANYTHING WITH ALL THOSE BUBBLES.
MARY: WELL, SEE, WHAT YOU GOING TO DO, YOU HAVE TO PICK IT UP, BOBBY, SEE HOW IT BROWN IN THERE.
YOU GOT TO PICK I UP AND CHECK IT.
BOBBY: YOU WANT TO GO GOLDEN BROWN.
MARY: GOLDEN BROWN.
BOBBY: IT'S GOING TO NEED MORE, BECAUSE IT NEEDS MORE LOVE.
MARY: RIGHT.
IT NEED MORE LOVE, BOBBY, THERE'S THAT ONE BOBBY: LOVE TAKES TIME.
MARY: RIGHT, RIGHT.
SO BOBBY, YOU KNOW WHAT WE NEED TO DO NOW? BOBBY: YEAH, PU THE LID ON IT.
MARY: WE NEED TO PUT THIS LID ON HERE.
BOBBY: HOW LONG DO YOU PUT THE LID ON, ROUGHLY, ON AVERAGE.
MARY: ABOUT TWO TO MAYBE, ABOUT TWO MINUTES.
BOBBY: SO YOU'RE GOING TO COOK IT LIKE SAY FOUR OR FIVE MINUTES, PUT THE LID ON, THIS HELPS.
MARY: UH-HUH, THEN WE FLIP IT OVER, WE LET IT COOK A LITTLE MORE WITH THE AIR AND LET IT BROWN.
BOBBY: MARY, IT LOOKS ABSOLUTELY DELICIOUS.
MARY: OOH, THANK YOU.
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP.
BOBBY: YOU GOING OUTSIDE? MARY: MMM-HMM.
BOBBY: I SEE YOU IN A BIT.
MARY: OKAY.
BOBBY: THANK YOU, SUGAR.
MARY: THANK YOU, BOBBY.
DON'T FORGET BOBBY: COOK WITH LOVE.
MARY: YOU GOT IT.
BOBBY: RIGHT, I'M BACK WITH MARTHA AND IT LOOKS LIKE THE GRITS ARE ABOUT DONE.
OKAY.
SO THE GRITS ARE PERFECT, THE TOMATO'S ARE GOLDEN BROWN AND THE FISH IS DONE TO A TURN.
EXCELLENT, NOW WHERE'S THE PARTY? WOMAN: OVER AT THE COMMISSARY.
BOBBY: READY TO ROLL.
WOMAN: ALL RIGHT, COME ON, LET'S GO.
BOBBY: YOU GUYS ALL, THANK YOU FOR YOUR SOUTHERN HOSPITALITY.
I'M COMING BACK.
GOOD FOOD, COOKED WITH LUUUV OF COURSE, GREAT SOUTHERN HOSPITALITY AND FANTASTIC MUSIC.
MAN: GOING DOWN TO THE RIVER, GOING TO GET MYSELF A DRINK.
GOING DOWN TO THE RIVER, GOING TO GET MYSELF A DRINK.
BOBBY: AFTER ALL THIS IS THE HOME OF DELTA BLUES.
IT'S TIME TO LEAVE MY NEW FOUND FRIENDS BEHIND AND MAKE THE FINAL LEG OF MY TRIP.
PAUSING IN THE SMALL MISSISSIPPI TOWN OF TUPELO, BEFORE REACHING JOURNEY'S END IN MEMPHIS TENNESSEE.
NOW WHY COME TO TUPELO YOU MIGHT ASK, WELL, GRANTED IT'S FAIRLY UNREMARKABLE, UNTIL YOU TAKE INTO ACCOUN THAT IT IS CONSIDERED BY SOME TO BE THE BIRTH PLACE OF ROCK AND ROLL.
APART FROM THE BLUES, A LOT OF OTHER SOUNDS, INCLUDING ROCK-N-ROLL, CAME FROM THE DEEP SOUTH, AND THE ONE MAN TO LINK THEM ALL TOGETHER WAS ELVIS AARON PRESLEY.
THIS IS THE ACTUAL HOUSE WHERE ELVIS WAS BORN ON JANUARY 8TH, 1935.
YOU CAN'T HELP BUT FEEL LIKE YOU'RE WALKING IN THE FOOTSTEPS WHERE HISTORY WAS MADE, BECAUSE THIS IS WHERE IT ALL BEGAN.
SO THIS IS IT.
THIS IS WHERE VERNON, THE FATHER, GLADYS, THE MOTHER, AND ELVIS ACTUALLY LIVED, AND THEY PROBABLY DID EVERYTHING RIGHT HERE.
THIS WAS THE KITCHEN, LIVING ROOM, DINING ROOM, NO ELECTRICITY, NO WATER.
THEY HAD AN OUTHOUSE OUTSIDE.
THIS IS THE BIRTHPLACE OF THE KING.
ELVIS PRESLEY'S FIRS MANAGER, SAM PHILLIPS, SAID, "HE SANG LIKE A BLACK MAN.
" THAT'S BECAUSE HE LEARNED OUT TO SING JUST OVER THERE.
GROUP: I WANT TO BE IN THAT NUMBER WHEN THE SAINTS GO MARCHING IN.
WOMAN: OH WHEN THE SAINTS GROUP: OH WHEN THE SAINTS WOMAN: GO MARCHING IN.
GROUP: GO MARCHING IN.
BOBBY: AND THAT'S WHAT IT'S ALL ABOUT.
EVEN THE HARDWARE STORE IN TUPELO HAS AN "ELVIS" STORY TO TELL.
I'M GUESSING THIS IS WHERE SOMEONE IS THIS WHERE ELVIS STOOD? MAN: THAT IS EXACTLY WHERE ELVIS STOOD WITH HIS MOTHER.
THEY CAME IN OUR STORE IN 1945, AND THEY CAME IN AND BOUGHT ELVIS A GUITAR.
BOBBY: THIS IS THE SPOT RIGHT HERE.
MAN: YOU ARE STANDING RIGHT ON THE SPOT RIGHT THERE.
BOBBY: OKAY, I HEARD HE WAS LOOKING FOR A GUN.
MAN: THAT'S RIGHT, AND HIS MOTHER SAID NO TO THE GUN, AND ELVIS GOT ALL UPSE BECAUSE HIS MAMA WOULDN' LET HIM HAVE THE RIFLE, OR THE GUN.
BOBBY: SO YOU SOLD HIM HIS FIRST GUITAR.
DID YOU MEET ELVIS? MAN: WELL, I'VE BEEN IN THE SAME ROOM WITH ELVIS UP IN MEMPHIS, BUT NO I'VE NEVER TOUCHED HIM, BUT THAT'S ABOUT ALL I CAN THINK TO SAY ON THAT.
BOBBY: ANOTHER ONE OF THE POPULAR "ELVIS" SPOTS IN TUPELO IS HERE A JOHNNIES DRIVE IN.
ELVIS LOVED HIS BURGER AND HE USED TO EAT HER AT JOHNNY'S AS A KID, AND WHEN HE GOT HIS FIRST HIT SINGLE, "IT'S ALL RIGHT, MAMA," BACK ON JULY 5TH, 1954, HE CAME BACK HERE AND CELEBRATED WITH HIS FRIENDS.
AND I'M MEETING THOSE VERY SAME FRIENDS IN THE VERY SAME BOOTH SPOOKY.
NOW GUY, SAM YOU GUYS WERE FRIENDS WITH ELVIS.
BOTH: RIGHT.
BOBBY: YOU GUYS USED TO EAT HERE AS KIDS.
MAN: THE HAMBURGER HERE WAS A DIME BACK IN THOSE DAYS, AND THE SOF DRINK WAS A NICKEL.
THERE WAS A LOT OF DAYS ALL OF US TOGETHER COULDN'T HAVE BOUGHT JUST ONE BURGER, YOU KNOW? BOBBY: WHOA, YOU SPLIT IT THREE WAYS? MAN: WELL, YEAH, WE HAD A DIME.
BOBBY: THIS IS YOU.
MAN 2: THAT'S ME, YEAH.
BOBBY: ELVIS, RIGHT THERE, RIGHT? MAN 2: YEAH, THIS IS WHEN HE MOVED INTO OUR NEIGHBORHOOD, AND WE GOT TO BE REAL GOOD FRIENDS.
WE SPENT A LOT OF TIME TOGETHER.
BOBBY: SO AS A KID, HE WAS LIVING IN A PREDOMINANTLY POOR BLACK NEIGHBORHOOD.
MAN 2: RIGHT.
BOBBY: HE WAS SINGING GOSPEL.
MAN 2: RIGHT.
BOBBY: DOES HE TELL YOU, ANY OF YOU GUYS, THAT "I'M THINKING OF GOING TO BE A SINGER AND.
" MAN 2: NOT AT OUR AGE, NO, WE HAD NO IDEA.
WE THOUGHT WE WAS SINGERS PLAYING AROUND WITH A BROOM AND ALL THAT WITH A GUITAR, BUT WE COULDN'T REALLY SING.
WE THOUGHT, BUT THERE WAS NO INKLING THAT ANY OF US WAS GOING TO BE A SONG SINGER OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT.
BOBBY: YOU DIDN'T THINK HE HAD TALENT AS A KID? MAN 2: WELL, HE USED TO SING MAN: NO ONE [INAUDIBLE.]
.
BOBBY: WAS MUSIC A THING FOR YOU GUYS AS CHILDREN? MAN: WE GOT ALL OUR LEARNING FROM CHURCH AND FROM THE BLUES PLAYERS, AND WE USED TO LISTEN TO LIKE MUDDY WATERS AND SOMETHING LIKE THAT, THOSE GUYS, AND WE USED TO HAVE A SANCTIFIED CHURCH, AND WE USED TO GO DOWN THERE AND LISTEN TO THEM, BUT WE STAY OUT THERE, LOOKING IN THROUGH THE WINDOW, BUT HE'D GO INSIDE, AND HE'D GO UP ON STAGE UP THERE, AND HE'D BE UP THERE JUMPING AROUND WITH THEM.
WE JUST THOUGH HE WAS THE FOOL.
WE CALLED HIM "FOOL.
" BOBBY: YOU CALLED ELVIS "FOOL.
" MAN: YEAH, AND THEY WOULD PLAY WITH HIM, AND HE LOVED THAT.
BOBBY: IT MUST'VE BEEN A LITTLE STRANGE ALL OF SUDDEN LIKE, YOU KNOW, NOW HE'S ON TELEVISION, AND HE STARTS DOING THA LITTLE THING WITH HIS HIPS.
MAN: YEAH.
MAN 2: WE WERE KIND OF QUESTIONING, WHAT HE DOING ALL THAT WORK LIKE THAT, BECAUSE WE HAD NO IDEA, IT CAN'T BE; NOT FROM WHERE WE COME FROM.
IT TURNED OUT TO BE HIM AND WE KIND OF FELT REAL PROUD OF THAT.
BOBBY: THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR TIME AND STORIES.
MAN: PLEASURE.
BOBBY: IT'S REALLY NICE TO MEET YOU GUYS.
MAN: GONE THROUGH A LOT OF YEARS.
GLAD TO MEET YOU, YEAH.
ELVIS: WISE MEN SAY ONLY FOOLS RUSH IN.
BOBBY: WAY BEFORE ELVIS HI THE BIG TIME HE AND HIS FAMILY HAD MOVED TO MEMPHIS, AND THA IS WHERE HE BOUGHT WHAT WAS DESTINED TO BECOME ONE OF THE WORLD'S MOST FAMOUS HOUSES.
BEING A BIG ROCK-N-ROLL FAN, I COULDN'T COME TO MEMPHIS WITHOUT VISITING THE KING AND GRACELAND, BUT THAT'S NO WHAT I'M HERE FOR.
I CAME FOR THE FOOD.
A REAL MEMPHIS CLASSIC IS THE MEMPHIS STYLE BARBECUE.
IN THE SOUTH THEY TAKE BARBECUE REALLY SERIOUSLY, BUT IN MEMPHIS THEY TAKE IT RRREEEEAAAALLY SERIOUSLY.
IT SEEMS LIKE EVERY NEIGHBOR'S GOT A BARBECUE JOINT IN THIS TOWN.
WHAT'S THE SECRE TO YOUR BARBECUE.
WOMAN: SLAW AND THE SAUCE.
IT'S THE COMBINATION OF EVERYTHING.
BOBBY: OKAY, SO IF I DON' HAVE THE RECIPE FOR THE SLAW, I COULDN'T REALLY COMPARE IT WITH THE SAUCE.
WOMAN: RIGHT, THAT'S RIGHT.
YOU'RE NOT GOING TO GET EITHER ONE OF THEM.
BOBBY: I JUS FINISHED THE SANDWICH.
YOU KNOW WOMAN: THE WINGS ARE BETTER.
BOBBY: THE WINGS? WOMAN: UH-HUH.
BOBBY: LOOK AT YOU, OH WOMAN: MMM.
BOBBY: AS WE CAN SEE, BARBECUING IS EVERYTHING HERE IN MEMPHIS, AND BEHIND THOSE WALLS THERE IS A WORLD CHAMPION PI MASTER, FOUR TIMES, SO YOU KNOW THIS WOMAN KNOWS HOW TO SWEAT HER MEAT.
WHOA! WOMAN: THIS IS WHAT WE USE WHEN WE TRAVEL AROUND AND COMPETE IN BARBECUE COMPETITIONS.
BOBBY: UH-HUH.
WOMAN: ALL RIGHT, WHAT WE'RE GOING TO BE COOKING TODAY IS PORK BUTTS, WHICH ARE THE TOP OF THE SHOULDER ON THE HOG.
THIS IS THE FA CAP ON THE TOP.
WE WANT TO LEAVE THAT ON TO PROTECT THE MEAT WHILE IT'S COOKING TO MAINTAIN MOISTURE.
BOBBY: THIS IS A BIG SECRET, THE RUB.
WOMAN: THE RUB IS THE STAPLE OF YOUR BARBECUE FLAVOR.
THE THING ABOUT RUB IS, YOU WANT TO BE ABLE TO HAVE A FULL-FLAVORED PROFILE.
YOU DON'T WANT ANY ONE INGREDIENT TO STICK OUT.
THEN WE PUT YELLOW MUSTARD ON TOP OF THAT.
I'M GOING TO RUB THIS IN.
IT'S GOING TO SEAL THAT RUB IN, OKAY? ALL RIGHT, SO NOW WE'RE GOING TO GET THIS IN THE COOKER.
BOBBY: SO THAT SEEMS PRETTY SIMPLETHE SECRET IS IN THE RUB AND THE AMOUNT OF TIME THE MEAT IS COOKED IN THESE AMAZING WOOD BURNING OVENS.
WOMAN: ALL RIGH NOW, AFTER 12 HOURS, THIS IS WHAT MY BABIES WILL LOOK LIKE, AND YOU CAN SEE HOW THE BONE IS COMPLETELY SEPARATED AWAY FROM THE MEAT.
THAT'S MY FIRST INDICATOR THAT THESE ARE READY.
WE SAY IT'S GOOD FROM SQUEAL TO HEAL.
ALL RIGHT, LET'S SEE WHAT THIS LOOKS LIKE.
SEE HOW MOIST? BOBBY: YEP.
CAN I SAMPLE A PIECE OF THAT? WOMAN: IT'S HOT.
BOBBY: OH, THAT IS GOOD.
OKAY, WHAT I'D LIKE TO DO WITH THIS PORK, I WANT YOU TO PULL IT, AND THEN I WANT TO CREATE A DISH FOR YOU, A VIETNAMESE DEEP SOUTH SPRING ROLL USING YOUR PULLED PORK, AND I'M GOING TO USE CHIPOTLE.
IT'S GOING TO BE GOOD.
YOU'RE GOING TO LIKE IT.
WOMAN: FANTASTIC, I CAN'T WAIT.
BOBBY: YOU'RE GOING TO PULL ME SOME PORK, PLEASE.
WOMAN: OKAY.
BOBBY: THAT'S GOOD.
ALL RIGHT, WHILE YOU'RE DOING THAT, I'M GOING TO MAKE THE SAUCE, SO I'M TAKING CHIPOTLE AND A ADOBO SAUCE RIGHT NOW LIKE THAT.
TO OFFSET THE HEAT, I'M GOING TO GIVE IT A LITTLE BROWN SUGAR, LITTLE GARLIC, BECAUSE I DON'T HAVE GARLIC SALT, AND THEN TO THICKEN IT, A LITTLE OLIVE OIL, AND THEN, I'M GOING TO PUREE IT, PULSE IT A COUPLE TIMES.
I'M GOING TO EMULSIFY IT WITH OLIVE OIL.
THEN, BALSAMIC VINEGAR.
FINISH IT WITH A LITTLE CUMIN.
WOMAN: I THINK THAT'S ENOUGH THERE, BOBBY.
BOBBY: THAT'S PERFECT.
WOMAN: AWESOME.
BOBBY: NOW, RICE PAPER.
DIP IT IN WATER.
YOU DON'T ADD TOO MUCH WATER.
OTHERWISE, IT GETS TOO STICKY, AND IT RIPS AND FALLS APART.
JUST PLACE IT DOWN.
YOU'VE GOT TO BE PATIENT WITH THIS.
YOU CAN'T RUSH A SPRING ROLL.
WOMAN: IF THERE'S ANYTHING I KNOW HOW TO DO IS BE PATIENT.
I COOK SLOW BARBECUE.
BOBBY: I KNOW.
I'M GOING TO SPRINKLE A LITTLE CARROT AND CUCUMBER, SO USING DIFFERENT TYPES OF HERBS, A LITTLE SALAD, A LITTLE BIT OF RICE NOODLE.
I'M GOING TO ROLL A LITTLE AND PULL TOWARDS ME SO IT'S NICE AND TIGHT.
I'M GOING TO FOLD HERE.
I'M GOING TO BE VERY GENEROUS WITH THIS, WITH THE PORK, AND THEN A LITTLE BIT OF THE LIME LEAF, AND THEN ROLL AGAIN.
WOMAN: BEAUTIFUL.
BOBBY: THEN THE SAUCE.
WOMAN: THAT IS FABULOUS.
ALL THOSE DIFFEREN FLAVORS GOING ON.
OH MY GOSH.
ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL.
BOBBY: GOOD, THANK YOU.
FROM NEW ORLEANS TO THE CAJUN BAYOU AND UP INTO THE MISSISSIPPI DELTA TO THE CRADLE OF THE CIVIL WAR.
TO THE HOMELAND OF ELVIS, AND HERE INTO MEMPHIS.
THE THREAD THAT BINDS US ALL TOGETHER IS THE MIGHTY MISSISSIPPI, THE FOOD, THE MUSIC, THE INCREDIBLE HOSPITALITY THAT WILL LEAVE AN EVERLASTING IMPRESSION ON ME UNTIL THE DAY I DIE.
ANNOUNCER: STAY TUNED FOR A SPECIAL GLOBE TREKKER EXTRA.
ANNOUNCER: FUNDING FOR THIS PROGRAM IS PROVIDED BY SUBARU.
WOMAN: AT SUBARU, WE BUILD VEHICLES LIKE THE RUGGED OUTBACK.
WITH SYMMETRICAL ALL-WHEEL DRIVE STANDARD AND PLENTY OF CARGO SPACE.
FOR THOSE WHO PACK EVEN MORE ADVENTURE INTO LIFE.
SUBARU A PROUD SPONSOR OF GLOBE TREKKER.
MAN: YOU CAN FIND MORE ABOU THIS SERIES ON OUR WEBSITE.
PROGRAMS FROM THE GLOBE TREKKER SERIES ARE AVAILABLE ON DVD AND NOW ON DEMAND FROM MUSIC FROM THE SERIES IS AVAILABLE ON CD.
YOU CAN ALSO ORDER THE NEW GLOBE TREKKER ANNUAL FEATURING INFORMATION ON FESTIVALS, EVENTS AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES.
TO ORDER GLOBE TREKKER PRODUCTS CALL 1-888-565-0361 OR VISIT THE WEBSITE, ZAY: SITUATED ON THE BANKS OF THE COLORADO RIVER, AUSTIN IS THE CAPITAL OF TEXAS.
THE CITY WAS NAMED AFTER STEPHEN F.
AUSTIN, KNOWN AS THE "FATHER OF TEXAS, AUSTIN HELPED THOUSANDS OF COLONISTS SETTLE THE REGION BACK IN THE 1820'S.
BY THE MID NINETEENTH CENTURY, THE CITY WAS FIRMLY ESTABLISHED AND IT'S IMPRESSIVE STATE CAPITAL BUILDING, THE LARGEST IN THE COUNTRY, COMPETED IN 1888.
TODAY AUSTIN PRESIDES OVER ONE OF THE MOST CONSERVATIVE STATES IN THE U.
S, BUT THE CITIZENS OF THIS TOWN ARE ANYTHING BUT.
AUSTIN'S REPUTATION FOR LIBERAL THINKING AND IT'S OFFBEAT MUSIC AND ART SCENE HAS TURNED IT INTO A MECCA FOR THOSE WHO MARCH TO THE BEAT OF A DIFFERENT DRUM OR AS SOME OF THE LOCALS PROBABLY PUT IT WEIRDOS.
THIS IS SOUTH CONGRESS OR "SO-CO" AND IT'S ONE OF AUSTINS COOLEST NEIGHBORHOODS.
IT'S GOT A GREAT VIBE TO IT.
LOT'S OF QUIRKY SHOPS, FRIENDLY CAFE'S, VINTAGE CLOTHING STORES AND LIVE MUSIC EVERYWHERE.
IT'S KIND OF LIKE PEOPLE GO OUT OF THEIR WAY TO BE A LITTLE DIFFEREN AROUND HERE EVEN WITH FOOD.
HELLO.
WOMAN: HI, HOW ARE YOU? ZAY: GOOD.
WHAT DO YOU GUYS SELL HERE AT WORST-TEX? WOMAN: WE'RE KNOWN FOR EXOTIC MEAT SAUSAGES.
ZAY: INTERESTING.
WHAT IS THE MOS POPULAR DISH HERE? WOMAN: PROBABLY THE PREDATOR AND PREY.
ZAY: WHICH IS WHAT? WOMAN: RATTLESNAKE AND RABBIT WITH JALAPENO PEPPER.
ZAY: WHOA, IN A SAUSAGE? WOMAN: YEAH, IT COMES SERVED IN A BUN WITH YOUR CHOICE OF SAUERKRAUT, GRILLED ONIONS, PEPPERS AND A PICKLE.
ZAY: SHE SOUNDS DELICIOUS.
SO YOU GUYS HAVE A LO OF RATTLESNAKES HERE? WOMAN: YEAH, THEY'RE IN TEXAS FOR SURE.
ZAY: SO YOU JUST THOUGHT, "LET'S JUST PUT THEM INSIDE OF A SAUSAGE?" WOMAN: RIGHT, WHY NOT EAT 'EM? ZAY: SOUNDS GOOD, I'M GONNA TRY THE RATTLESNAKE.
IT'S SOMETHING DIFFERENT, NEVER HAD THAT BEFORE.
WOMAN: HERE'S THE PREDATOR AND PREY.
ZAY: LOOKS BEAUTIFUL.
LOOK AT THAT PRESENTATION.
NICE AND WARM.
M-MM, I WAS EXPECTING SOMETHING CHEWY.
IT TASTES LIKE CHICKEN, JUST KIDDING, IT TASTES LIKE SNAKE.
CANT EVEN HEAR IT RATTLING.
WEIRD.
[CROWD CHEERING.]
[COUNTRY MUSIC PLAYS.]
.
AUSTIN'S UNIQUE WAY OF DOING THINGS ISN'T LIMITED TO ARTISTS LIKE VINCE.
JENNY'S LITTLE LONGHORN SALOON HERE ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF THE CITY MAY LOOK LIKE A TYPICAL TEXAN WATERING HOLE.
BUT YOU KNOW THAT OLD SAYING ABOUT A BOOK AND IT'S COVER.
WELL, EVER SINCE JENNY DECIDED TO SPICE UP HER BINGO SUNDAYS THE PLACE IS PACKED TIGHTER THAN A CHICKEN COOP.
AND ALL IT TOOK WAS A BOARD FULL OF NUMBERS, SOME CORN FEED AND ONE HUNGRY HEN.
WELCOME TO CHICKEN (BLEEP) BINGO! AN UNUSUAL VERSION OF THE GAME WHERE THE BOARDS ARE RIGHT HERE IN THE CHICKEN PEN FOOD IS LAID OUT, THE CHICKEN IS PUT INSIDE IT EATS SOME FOOD AND POOPS OUT ON DIFFEREN SQUARED NUMBERS.
[EVENT ANNOUNCER INAUDIBLE.]
IF IT LINES UP ON YOUR BINGO CARD THAT YOU BOUGHT YOU WIN.
39, LUCKY 39.
LET'S GO 39, COME ON 39! [INAUDIBLE CHATTER.]
.
I NEVER THOUGHT I'D SPEND SO MUCH TIME STARING AT A CHICKENS BEHIND, BU WITH PRIZE MONEY SET AT $114, NOBODY'S BLINKING.
YOU'RE STANDING ON 39 JUST GO RIGHT NOW.
[CROWD CHEERS.]
.
39! RIGHT THERE ON 39.
UNBELIEVABLE! I LOVE YOU, I LOVE YOU, THAT'S INCREDIBLE.
MAN: ALRIGHT, 39, THA IS THE WINNING NUMBER.
WHAT IS YOUR NAME SIR? ZAY: ZAY.
MAN: ARE YOU HERE WITH A COUPLE OF FRIENDS ZAY? ZAY: I AM, I'M HERE WITH MY CREW FOR "GLOBE TREKKER.
" [LAUGHTER.]
.
MAN: ARE YOU KIDDING? ZAY: YOU COULD NO HAVE PLANNED THIS, I PROMISE YOU.
MAN: THERE IS NO WAY TO RIG ZAY: ASK THE PEOPLE, ASK THE PEOPLE.
IS THERE A WAY TO RIG THE CHICKEN? CROWD: NO! ALRIGHT, WHAT DO YOU PLAN TO DO WITH ALL THAT MONEY? ZAY: I'D LIKE TO JUS OPEN A TAB FOR $114! [CHEERING.]
.
WOMAN: AT SUBARU, WE BUILD VEHICLES LIKE THE RUGGED OUTBACK.
WITH SYMMETRICAL ALL-WHEEL DRIVE STANDARD AND PLENTY OF CARGO SPACE.
FOR THOSE WHO PACK EVEN MORE ADVENTURE INTO LIFE.
SUBARU A PROUD SPONSOR OF GLOBE TREKKER.
BOBBY: IT'S THE BIRTHPLACE OF JAZZ, BLUES, ROCK-N-ROLL AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN.
THE CRADLE OF THE AMERICAN CIVIL WAR HERE FRIED FOOD IS KING.
AN AMAZING MELTING PO OF CULTURES WITH A UNIQUE ATTITUDE TO MUSIC, FOOD AND OLD FASHIONED HOSPITALITY.
THIS CAN ONLY BE THE DEEP SOUTH USA! THE DEEP SOUTH IS MADE UP OF SOME OF AMERICA'S POOREST STATES.
THIS WAS COTTON LAND, WHERE RICH WHITE LANDOWNERS HELD ABSOLUTE POWER OVER TENS OF THOUSANDS OF BLACK SLAVES AND SEGREGATION WAS THE NORM UNTIL THE MID SIXTIES.
A GREAT DEAL OF THE ICONIC FOODS OF THIS REGION WERE BORN DURING THIS TIME THE SOUTH IS ALSO A LAND OF IMMIGRANTS WHO BROUGHT WITH THEM THEIR OWN GASTRONOMIC TRADITIONS CREATING THE MOS FANTASTIC OF PEASANT CUISINE.
FOR MY JOURNEY I'M GOING TO FOLLOW THE MIGHTY MISSISSIPPI RIVER.
IN NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA, I SAMPLE SOME CREOLE GUMBO BEFORE TRAVELING TO LAFAYETTE FOR A JAMBALAYA.
I THEN HEAD NORTH INTO MISSISSIPPI TO NATCHEZ FOR SOME SWEET TREATS AND STOP IN VICKSBURG ON MY WAY TO GREENWOOD FOR A RENDEZVOUS WITH CLASSIC SOUTHERN FOOD AND BLUES.
CONTINUING FURTHER NORTH, I PAUSE AT TUPELO FOR AN ELVIS BURGER BEFORE TASTING ARGUABLY THE BES BARBECUE IN THE WORLD IN MEMPHIS TENNESSEE.
THAT MELTS IN YOUR MOUTH.
THAT IS DELICIOUS.
ON THE MOUTH OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER, NEW ORLEANS IS BY FAR THE BIGGEST CITY IN LOUISIANA.
THE FRENCH SETTLED HERE IN THE LATE 17TH CENTURY, BRINGING AFRICAN SLAVES, BEFORE LOSING MUCH OF THEIR AND LATER TO THE SPANISH.
NEW ORLEANS TODAY IS A SPICY, SWEATY, BOUNCING METROPOLIS UNLIKE ANY OTHER IN THE USA.
THE FRENCH, SPANISH AND ELSE HAVE ALL MADE NEW ORLEANS THE MOS FOOD CENTRIC CITY IN THE U.
S SO WHERE TO START? APPARENTLY, TO GE YOUR CULINARY BEARINGS, YOU HAVE TO UNDERSTAND THE HISTORY OF THIS CITY TO UNDERSTAND THE COMPLEXITIES OF ALL THESE DIFFERENT FLAVORS.
THE TWO MAIN STYLES OF FOOD IN LOUISIANA ARE CREOLE AND CAJUN AND THE BEST PLACE TO COME TO SAMPLE THESE DELIGHTS ARE THE EATERIES HERE IN THE FRENCH MARKET.
AND THIS IS A POOR BOY? MAN: THEY CALL IT A POOR BOY, BECAUSE A POOR BOY COULD AFFORD A BIG SANDWICH.
BOBBY: CREOLE IS TRADITIONALLY POSH CITY FOOD USING THE FINEST OF INGREDIENTS WHILE CAJUN WAS A MORE HUMBLE IMMIGRANT FARE, MADE WITH WHATEVER WAS AT HAND.
MIND YOU, BOTH DO LIKE IT SPICY.
THERE'S SPICES.
THERE'S TONS OF CHILI SAUCES.
MAN: YEAH.
BOBBY: THIS IS WHAT, MILD OR SPICY? THIS IS DANGEROUS.
MAN: THAT'S HOT, SUPER HOT.
BOBBY: YOU KNOW, I STARTS OFF LIKE A TABASCO, AND THEN IT JUST GOES BAM! I GET A GATOR ON A STICK, PLEASE? WOMAN: ABSOLUTELY, HERE WE GO.
BOBBY: THANK YOU.
WOMAN: YOU'RE WELCOME.
BOBBY: THAT'S A GATOR? WOMAN: THAT'S A GATOR.
IT'S A GRILLED ALLIGATOR SAUSAGE.
BOBBY: TASTES LIKE CHICKEN.
THIS FAMOUS PAR OF NEW ORLEANS, DISTINGUISHABLE BY ITS ICONIC WROUGHT IRON BALCONIES IS KNOWN AS THE FRENCH QUARTER.
IT WAS ACTUALLY REBUILT BY THE SPANISH WHEN THE WHOLE TOWN CAUGHT ON FIRE.
GO FIGURE.
IF YOU GO TO PARIS, YOU HAVE TO EAT PASTRIES, IF YOU GO TO LONDON, YOU HAVE TO EAT FISH AND CHIPS, AND HERE IN NEW ORLEANS YOU HAVE TO TRY BEIGNET AND COFFEE AND THE PLACE TO COME IS CAFÃ DU MONDE.
THIS IS A PRECURSOR TO THE DONUT.
ONE OF THE THINGS YOU GOT TO DO, YOU GOT TO DIP IT.
YOU CUT A PIECE OFF AND YOU DIP IT IN THE POWDERED SUGAR.
DEEP-FRIED DOUGH AND SUGAR, YOU CAN'T BEAT IT.
THIS IS TUJAQUES, IT'S THE OLDEST STAND UP BAR IN THE WHOLE OF THE UNITED STATES.
POPPY TOOKER RUNS A COOKERY SCHOOL HERE AND IS ONE OF THE CITY'S TOP CHEFS SPECIALIZING IN CREOLE CUISINE.
POPPY IS GOING TO COOK US SOMETHING INCREDIBLE.
POPPY: SEAFOOD GUMBO, BOBBY.
BOBBY: THAT'S WHAT YOU EAT WHEN YOU'RE IN NEW ORLEANS, RIGHT? THAT'S THE DISH.
POPPY: CREOLE SEAFOOD GUMBO.
BOBBY: A CREOLE, NO BE CONFUSED WITH CAJUN.
POPPY: CORRECT.
BOBBY: OKAY, WELL, TELL ME HOW TO GET STARTED.
POPPY: STAR PEELING THOSE SHRIMP.
BOBBY: I LOVE THE WAY YOU TALK TO ME.
POPPY: THE HEADS AND ALL THE SHELLS ARE GOING RIGHT INTO THE POT SO THAT WE CAN HAVE A SHRIMP STOCK.
THAT GETS THE FLAVOR OF THE SEA RIGHT INTO THE GUMBO.
WE'VE GOT TO COOK THE OCHRE NEXT, AND WE'RE JUST GOING TO SAUTÃ IT REALLY QUICK IN SOME HOT OIL.
BOBBY: OKAY, OCHRE COMING FROM AFRICA.
POPPY: YES, AND THAT'S WHERE GUMBO GETS ITS NAME.
BOBBY: THE BIG EASY.
WHY IS I CALLED THE BIG EASY? POPPY: BECAUSE IT'S SO EASY AND FUN TO LIVE HERE.
BOBBY: AND YOU'VE GOT INCREDIBLE FOOD.
POPPY: AND WE HAVE THE BEST FOOD.
BOBBY: SO, WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CREOLE AND CAJUN IN GUMBO? POPPY: THE CREOLE GUMBO, NUMBER ONE, WE'RE GOING TO HAVE A LITTLE TOMATO.
THE CAJUNS, THEY DON' PUT TOMATO IN THEIRS.
OUR GUMBO IN THE CITY, CREOLE, THAT'S THE WORD CRIOLLO MEANS NATIVE.
WE USE OCHRE AND SEAFOOD.
THE CAJUNS ARE GOING TO USE CHICKEN AND SAUSAGE.
YOU GOT THAT POT? BOBBY: I GOT THAT READY.
POPPY: PUT IT RIGHT THERE.
WHAT WE'VE GOT IN THE STOCK POT IS EVERYTHING THAT WE NEEDED TO PREP TO GE READY TO MAKE THE GUMBO.
BOBBY: SO, NOTHING WENT TO WASTE? POPPY: NOTHING WENT TO WASTE.
BOBBY: THE SKIN OF THE ONION.
POPPY: THE SKIN OF THE ONION, THE ROOT ENDS.
THIS IS THE STOCK THA SEPARATES THE MEN FROM THE BOYS WHEN IT COMES TO MAKING GUMBO.
OKAY, SO TO MAKE OUR ROUX, FIRST WE'RE GOING TO ADD OIL, AND SO NOW WE'RE GOING TO ADD SOME FLOWER AND JUS STIR IT IN.
BOBBY: WE'RE COOKING GUMBO! WOMAN: SOUNDS GOOD.
BOBBY: WHERE DOES THE TRADITION OF THIS WHOLE CREOLE COOKING COME FROM? POPPY: WELL, IT'S A COMBINATION OF ALL THE EUROPEAN CULTURES THAT CAME TOGETHER HERE IN THE CITY OF NEW ORLEANS ALONG WITH THIS HAND OF THE AFRICAN SLAVES, WHO WERE ALWAYS STIRRING THE POT.
YOU KNOW, DOWN HERE, FIRST YOU MAKE A ROUX, AND THEN YOU ADD YOUR SEASONINGS, AND IT'S ALWAYS THE SAME THREE SEASONINGS CELERY, BELL PEPPER AND ONIONS.
BOBBY: THAT'S KNOWN AS THE TRINITY.
POPPY: THE HOLY TRINITY OF CREOLE COOKING.
BOBBY: OKAY, SO WE'RE GOING TO ADD THE ONIONS.
I'M GOING TO THROW THOSE PUPPIES IN THERE RIGHT NOW.
POPPY: YES.
BOBBY: READY? 3, 2, 1.
POPPY: BEAUTIFUL, AND YOU SEE THE ROUX IS GETTING DARKER.
IF YOU ADDED ALL THREE SEASONING VEGETABLES AT THE SAME TIME, THE ROUX WOULD GET LIGHTER BECAUSE OF THE JUICINESS OF THE BELL PEPPER AND THE CELERY.
OKAY, YOU HAPPY WITH THAT? BOBBY: I'M HAPPY WITH YOU.
POPPY: OH, GOOD.
BOBBY: I'M LEARNING A LOT FROM YOU, BECAUSE YOU SEE, I WOULD HAVE THROWN ALL AT THE SAME TIME.
POPPY: WELL, YOU KNOW BOBBY: YOU WOULD HAVE AS WELL.
POPPY: OKAY, ARE YOU READY? BOBBY: I'M READY FOR THE NEXT ONE.
CAN I PUT TWO IN AT THE SAME TIME? POPPY: ADD 'EM IN.
BOBBY: OKAY, HERE WE GO.
POPPY: NOW WE'RE GOING TO ADD WHAT MAKES IT CREOLE, A LITTLE BIT OF TOMATO, OKAY? OKAY, SO ARE YOU READY TO ADD THE STOCK? YOU GOT THAT STRAINER FOR ME? OKAY.
BOBBY: WATCH OUT, THESE ARE SUEDE SHOES.
POPPY: OKAY, AND LOOK A THAT, AND CAN YOU SMELL? IT'S ALMOST LIKE A FLORAL BOUQUET THAT IS COMING OFF OF THIS.
BOBBY: OKAY.
POPPY: ALL RIGHT, AND NOW WE'RE GOING TO ADD OUR BEAUTIFUL FAT GUMBO CRABS, AND WE'RE GIVE IT A LITTLE SQUEEZE SO SOME OF THAT DELICIOUS CRAB MEAT IS JUMPING OU RIGHT INTO THE GUMBO.
BOBBY: OKAY.
POPPY: NEXT, WE CAN ADD THE OCHRE.
BEAUTIFUL.
ALL RIGHTY, NOW, FRESH CHOPPED GARLIC.
IT'S TIME TO ADD THE HERBS.
THAT'S ALWAYS THYME AND BAY LEAVES.
THAT'S GOOD.
ALL RIGHT, THAT'S PLENTY.
ALL IT HAS TO DO SIMMER FOR AT LEAST 30, OPTIMALLY 45 MINUTES TO AN HOUR.
BOBBY: BUM-BUH-BUH-BAH! POPPY: OH, IT'S BEAUTIFUL.
NOW, WE'RE GOING TO FINISH IT WITH THE SHRIMP, THOSE BEAUTIFUL PEELED SHRIMP STRAIGHT FROM THE GULF OF MEXICO.
NEXT, WE'RE GOING TO ADD THE GREEN ONION, AND NOW YOU KNOW WE'RE GOING TO NEED A GOOD AMOUNT OF SALT BECAUSE THE SHRIMP SUCK THE SALT OUT OF EVERYTHING.
BOBBY: THEY LIVE IN THE SEA.
POPPY: BUT YOU KNOW, WHAT WE REALLY NEED IS WE NEED SOME HEAT.
WE'RE GOING TO ADD THE PEPPER SAUCE.
BOBBY: NOW, I'VE NOTICED THAT YOU GUYS ARE FREAKS FOR PEPPER SAUCE.
THIS GUY ARTHUR, DID YOU TRY HIS SAUCES? POPPY: THERE'S TOO MANY TO TRY.
BOBBY: THAT GUY'S INSANE.
POPPY: ABSOLUTELY, YOU HAVE TO BE.
IF YOU LIVE IN NEW ORLEANS, THAT'S WHAT IT'S ALL ABOUT.
BOBBY: A LITTLE TASTE HERE.
THAT'S GOOD.
POPPY: YOU LIKE THAT? BOBBY: THAT'S DELICIOUS.
POPPY: GOOD.
WELL, YOU THINK IT'S GOOD.
I KNOW IT'S DELICIOUS, BU LET'S GO DOWN TO THE BAR AND SEE WHAT THEY THINK DOWN THERE.
BOBBY: HOW'S EVERYBODY DOING? MAN: HERE IS SOMETHING EXCELLENT.
POPPY: IT'S ME.
BOBBY: OH, IS IT YOU? DON'T BE SHY.
WOMAN: MMM.
POPPY: YOU KNEW I COULD COOK THE GUMBO, DIDN'T YOU? THANK YOU, JENNIFER.
OH DARLING, THANK YOU.
BOBBY: NEW ORLEANS IS THE BIRTHPLACE OF JAZZ, AND IF IT HAD A HOME, IT WOULD BE RIGHT HERE IN CONGO SQUARE WHERE SPANISH-CONTROLLED NEW ORLEANS OF THE EARLY 18TH CENTURY ALLOWED AFRICAN SLAVES ONE DAY OFF A WEEK TO BE ABLE TO PLAY MUSIC, DRUMS, DANCE, AND ALL THAT JAZZ.
TODAY NUMEROUS JAZZ CLUBS CAN BE FOUND ALL OVER THE CITY, MANY OF WHICH ARE DOWN HERE ON BOURBON STREET IN THE HEART OF THE FRENCH QUARTER.
ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR IS OWNED BY MAESTRO JAZZ TRUMPETER, IRVIN MAYFIELD.
YOUR EXCELLENCY, GREAT SHOW.
IRVIN: THANK YOU, THANK YOU FOR BEING HERE.
BOBBY: NOW JAZZ MOST KIDS WOULD HAVE PLAYED ROCK-N-ROLL.
IRVIN: IN NEW ORLEANS, IT'S A LITTLE DIFFERENT.
IN NEW ORLEANS, JAZZ IS EVERYWHERE, SO THIS WOULD BE THE TYPE OF TOWN WHERE BEING A CAPTAIN OF THE FOOTBALL TEAM IS NOT THE COOLEST THING.
BEING A DRUM MAJOR OF THE BAND IS THE COOLES POSITION TO HAVE.
MUSIC IN NEW ORLEANS HAS MANY DIFFERENT PURPOSES.
YOU WOULD HAVE PLACES LIKE A FUNKY BUTT HALL, WHICH IS WHERE THE LEGENDARY BUDDY BOLDEN PLAYED, SAID TO BE THE FIRST JAZZ MUSICIAN.
FUNKY BUTT HALL WAS A DANCE HALL AT NIGHT, AND IT WAS A CHURCH ON SUNDAY MORNINGS.
SO, YOU HAVE TO UNDERSTAND THE TYPE OF A COMMUNITY WHERE A PLACE COULD BE A PLACE EVERYBODY'S HANGING OUT AND DRINKING AND HAVING A GOOD TIME, AND THEN ON SUNDAY, IT'S THE PLACE WHERE PEOPLE WORSHIP.
IN NEW ORLEANS, THAT'S NOT STRANGE.
[AUDIENCE APPLAUSE.]
BOBBY: NEXT MORNING AND I BID FAREWELL TO NEW ORLEANS, HEADING NORTHWEST INTO THE BAYOU AND CAJUN COUNTRY.
MY DESTINATION, SOMEWHERE NEAR LAFAYETTE.
THE WORD CAJUN ORIGINATES FROM THE WORD "LE ARCADIAN"' [SPEAKING FRENCH.]
.
THEY WERE FRENCH COLONISTS FROM THE ARCADIAN REGION OF EASTERN CANADA, WHO WERE THE MID 1700'S.
MANY SETTLED HERE IN THIS SWAMPY REGION OF LOUISIANA.
MUCH OF THE BAJOU IS INACCESSIBLE BY LAND AND BY FAR THE BEST WAY TO GET AROUND IS BY BOAT MR LE BLANC, APPARENTLY I'M NOT ALLOWED TO CALL HIM ANYTHING ELSE, HAS AGREED TO GET ME TO MY NEXT DESTINATION.
SO YOU'RE A REAL LIVE CROCODILE HUNTER.
MR.
LE BLANC: YEP.
WELL, I HUNTED FOR 30 YEARS.
I KILLED A LOT OF ALLIGATORS.
BOBBY: IS THAT THE TOOTH OF A BIG ONE? MR.
LE BLANC: THAT'S THE TOOTH FROM ONE OF MY BIG ALLIGATORS.
BOBBY: WOW.
HOW LONG YOU BEEN ACTUALLY OUT HERE? MR.
LE BLANC: I BEEN HEAR FOR 78 YEARS, BORN AND RAISED IN THE SWAMP MOSTLY.
LIVED ALL MY LIFE, RAISED ALL MY KIDS ON WILDLIFE.
WE NEVER BOUGH ANYTHING IN TOWN TOO MUCH.
EVERY YEAR, I'D KILL ME 15, 20, 30 ALLIGATORS A YEAR.
BOBBY: WHAT DO YOU DO WITH ALL THAT MEAT? MR.
LE BLANC: WHEN YOU KILL A BIG ALLIGATOR, YOU HAVE A LOT OF FRIENDS, AND THEY ALL COME IN THE HOUSE TO GET SOME ALLIGATOR MEAT.
BOBBY: WHAT TYPE OF TREES ARE THESE? MR.
LE BLANC: THESE ARE TUPELO GUM TREES WITH THE BIG LEAVES, AND THE OTHER ONE IS THE CYPRUS TREE WITH THE SMALL LEAVES.
BOBBY: OOH LOOK, A CROCODILE.
MR.
LE BLANC: USUALLY, THERE'S ONE RIGHT HERE.
THERE'S ALWAYS ONE ON THAT LOG RIGHT THERE.
BOBBY: AS A VEGETARIAN, I'VE GOT NO PROBLEM WITH YOU KILLING ALLIGATORS, BECAUSE THEY'RE NOT REALLY FRIENDLY, HUH? MR.
LE BLANC: NO, THEY WOULD TAKE YOUR LEG OFF IF YOU LET 'EM.
BOBBY: THE TRIP WOULD BE INCOMPLETE IN THE DEEP SOUTH WITHOUT A LITTLE BIT OF MOONSHINE.
AGED FOR FOUR YEARS IN A BARREL.
MR.
LE BLANC: IN THE OAK BARREL.
BOBBY: OAK BARREL.
HE SAYS IT'S 45%, AND IT FEELS LIKE IT.
THAT'S GOOD STUFF.
DUE TO THE FRENCH AND SURPRISINGLY GERMAN INFLUENCES IN CAJUN COUNTRY, THEY HAVE SOME AMAZING CHARCUTERIES.
AND I'M TOLD THIS IS THE BEST, POCHES.
THIS IS KIND OF LIKE ONE OF THESE JOINTS, WHICH IS HOME COOKING, EVERYTHING'S MADE FRESH, AND THE CLIENTELE SEEM TO EA HERE MORE THAN TWICE A WEEK.
DOES HE COME HERE OFTEN? WOMAN: FIVE DAYS A WEEK.
BOBBY: YOU ORDER SOMETHING DIFFERENT EACH TIME? HE'S GOT LIKE THREE WOMAN: SOME BOUDIN.
BOBBY: SOME BOOTY? DUDLEY: BOUDIN.
BOBBY: WHAT'S BOO DANG? DUDLEY: YOU WAN ME TO SHOW YOU? THIS IS CAJUN, PURE CAJUN.
PATRICK: IT'S A PORK AND RICE SAUSAGE THAT WE MAKE DOWN HERE IN LOUISIANA.
THEY SMOTHER DOWN THE PORK, AND THEY MIX IN THE RICE TO THE COOKED PORK, GROUND PORK, AND THEN THEY STUFF IT BACK INTO THE CASING.
BOBBY: IT'S GOOD.
IT'S ALMOST MOUSSE-Y.
IT'S NOT LIKE IT'S VERY SOFT.
I'M A VEGETARIAN BUT, IT'S GOOD.
PATRICK: YOU'RE A VEGETARIAN? MAN, YOU'RE IN THE WRONG PLACE IF YOU'RE A VEGETARIAN.
BOBBY: THE "CHIN-MAN" LUCKS OUT AGAIN.
THIS IS PATRICK MOULD, HE'S AN EXPERT ON CAJUN CUISINE AND HE'S HERE BUYING INGREDIENTS FOR A MEAL HE'S COOKING AT THE LOCAL SPEAK EASY.
PATRICK: HAVE YOU HAD CRACKLINGS SINCE YOU'VE BEEN HERE? BOBBY: OKAY, I'M GOING TO GO EVEN FURTHER AS A VEGETARIAN.
PATRICK: YOU ARE DEFINITELY IN TROUBLE, MAN.
BOBBY: I'M IN TROUBLE.
WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO COOK FOR US? PATRICK: I'M GOING TO DO A VERY TRADITIONAL CAJUN JAMBALAYA, WHICH IS A SMOTHERED PORK AND ANDOUILLE SAUSAGE SIMMERED IN A CAST IRON POT.
BOBBY: THAT SOUNDS RUSTIC.
PATRICK: VERY RUSTIC.
[INAUDIBLE CROWD CHATTER.]
BOBBY: PATRICK IS GOING TO TEACH US HOW TO MAKE A FABULOUS JAMBALAYA, WHICH IS A PAELLA IN MY MIND.
PATRICK: SOME PEOPLE BELIEVE IT'S BASED ON THE SPANISH PAELLA.
WE'RE GOING TO START BY CUTTING UP SOME ANDOUILLE THA WE GOT AT POCHES.
BOBBY: YEAH, LIKE THIS? PATRICK: SPLIT I INTO QUARTER MOONS.
BOBBY: OKAY.
PATRICK: WE'RE GOING TO GO AHEAD AND SEASON UP OUR PORK.
WE'RE GOING TO SEASON IT, WE GOT CAYENNE, SALT, GARLIC, RED PEPPER, BLACK PEPPER.
BOBBY: IS THAT ENOUGH? PATRICK: WE'RE GOING TO GO AHEAD AND IT IN, PERFECT.
BOBBY: THAT'S WHAT, JUST OLIVE OIL? PATRICK: THAT'S A LITTLE BI OF OLIVE OIL THAT WE'RE GOING TO HEAT UP, AND WE'RE GOING TO ADD OUR PORK.
[SIZZLING.]
WE'RE GOING TO STAR THE BROWNING PROCESS, AND THEN WE'RE GOING TO GO AHEAD AND ADD OUR ANDOUILLE.
BOBBY: LOOK AT YOU GO.
SO YOU DON'T COOK FOR LIKE ONE PERSON IN THIS STATE, DO YOU? PATRICK: NO, NO.
BOBBY: THIS FEEDS LIKE 25 PEOPLE.
PATRICK: GOING GOOD.
BOBBY: LOOK AT THAT.
PATRICK: ISN' THAT LOOKING NICE? BOBBY: I LISTEN TO THE SOUND OF CARAMELIZING SAUSAGE, AND EVEN AS A MUSLIM, I'M THINKING, LOOKS GOOD.
PATRICK: WE'RE GOING TO ADD OUR ONION, CELERY, BELL PEPPER, OUR GARLIC, AND ALL OUR SEASONINGS.
BOBBY: IS THA CALLED THE HOLY TRINITY? PATRICK: THAT'S CALLED THE HOLY TRINITY.
BOBBY: I GOT A STUPID QUESTION.
PATRICK: ALL RIGHT, THERE'S NOT STUPID QUESTIONS.
BOBBY: I KNOW, SEE THAT'S WHAT I LIKE.
YOU'RE A NICE MAN.
IN LIKE A PAELLA OR LIKE IN A RISOTTO, THIS IS COOKED OUT FIRST.
PATRICK: RIGHT.
BOBBY: NOW, WHA YOU WANT TO DO? YOU WANT TO GET THE FLAVORS OF THE SAUSAGE AND THE FAT, INTO THE FAT, AND PATRICK: WHAT PEOPLE DON'T UNDERSTAND ABOU CAJUN COOKING, IT'S NOT ABOUT THE SPICES.
IT'S ABOUT THE FLAVOR THAT'S DEVELOPED IN THE POT.
YOU LOOK DOWN HERE A THE BOTTOM OF THIS POT.
BOBBY: CARAMELIZATION.
PATRICK: RIGHT, AND THAT'S ANY GOOD COOKING.
OUR FOOD IS ABOUT FLAVOR FIRST, THEN IT'S ABOUT THE SPICE.
THE SPICE SHOULD ACCEN THE FLAVOR OF WHATEVER I IS WE'RE COOKING.
PEOPLE HAVE IT BACKWARDS OUTSIDE OF LOUISIANA.
THEY ALWAYS WANT TO SPICE THE HELL OUT OF EVERYTHING AND CALL IT CAJUN.
THAT'S NOT THE CASE.
BOBBY: YOU GET THAT? JUST DON'T BUY THE LITTLE SPICE MIXTURE OF CAJUN.
GET THE FLAVOR FIRST AND THEN ACCENT IT AND HIGHLIGH THOSE FLAVORS WITH THOSE SPICES.
PATRICK: YOU GOT IT.
WE'RE GOING TO ADD SOME GARLIC TO THE MIX, AND THEN WE'RE GOING TO ADD A LITTLE BIT OF TABASCO.
BOBBY: I'M GOING TO TIDY THIS UP FOR YOU.
PATRICK: THANK YOU, SIR.
BOBBY: OKAY, SO NOW WHAT? PATRICK: NOW WE'RE GOING TO GO AHEAD AND ADD OUR RICE.
BOBBY: OKAY.
PATRICK: SO ADD THE RICE INTO THE POT.
ALL RIGHT.
WHAT'S GOING TO HAPPEN IS WE'RE GOING TO ADD OUR STOCK, AND THE RICE IS GOING TO ABSORB ALL THESE DIFFEREN FLAVORS, SO YOU CAN COME ON, BRING THE STOCK.
BOBBY: YES, BOSS.
TELL ME WHEN.
HOW MUCH? PATRICK: JUS KEEP POURING, OKAY, LITTLE BIT MORE.
IT'S NOT LIKE A RISOTTO.
KEEP GOING, KEEP GOING.
ALL RIGHT, GOOD.
BOBBY: WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? HOW MUCH STOCK DO YOU ADD IN RELATIONSHIP TO THE AMOUNT OF PATRICK: YOU WAN ABOUT AN INCH AND A HALF, TWO INCHES OF BULB WHERE THE RICE STARTS.
BOBBY: SO I'VE GOT A QUESTION.
YOU SEE, NOW, EVERYTHING ABOUT THIS FOOD AND IT'S LIKE IT'S GERMAN, IT'S FRENCH, IT'S AFRICAN, IT'S PATRICK: ITALIAN.
BOBBY: ITALIAN.
PATRICK: SPANISH.
BOBBY: SPANISH.
PATRICK: IT'S ALL THESE COMBINATIONS.
IT'S ALL THESE CULTURAL INFLUENCES THAT MAKE THIS CUISINE SO UNIQUE.
ALL RIGHT, SO WE'RE GOING TO COVER THE POT AND THEN JUS LOWER THE FIRE AND ALLOW I TO STEAM FOR ABOUT 10 MINUTES.
HAVE A LITTLE TASTE.
BOBBY: THA TASTES GOOD TO ME NOW.
WHY CAN'T YOU EAT THAT NOW? PATRICK: WELL, JUST COOK THE RICE A LITTLE BIT MORE.
BOBBY: IT'S GO THAT AL DENTE THING, THAT'S KIND OF LIKE A SEMI-RISOTTO PAELLA.
PATRICK: YEAH, BUT IT'S NOT A SEMI-RISOTTO PAELLA.
IT'S A JAMBALAYA.
BOBBY: SO LIKE YOU'RE SUPPOSED TO MIX IT UP, BECAUSE THE SPANISH WOULD BE UPSET WITH YOU FOR THAT STUFF.
PATRICK: WELL, YOU KNOW, THE SPANISH AREN'T HERE RIGHT NOW, SO [LAUGHTER.]
WE'RE GOING TO GO AHEAD AND CHECK, SEE HOW THE RICE IS DOING.
BOBBY: THAT'S LOOKING GOOD.
PATRICK: YEAH, THAT'S LOOKING REAL GOOD.
YOU SEE HOW THE RICE POPPED, THE KERNELS OPENED UP? BOBBY: YEAH.
PATRICK: THAT'S WHA YOU'RE LOOKING FOR IN A GOOD JAMBALAYA.
BOBBY: PATRICK, YOU'VE DONE A FANTASTIC JOB.
PATRICK: THANK YOU, MAN.
BOBBY: NO, REALLY.
THIS IS GOOD EATING.
THAT'S WHAT I LIKE, WHEN YOU GUYS SAY THAT.
PATRICK: GOOD EATING, BABY.
BOBBY: GOOD EATING.
DON'T BE SHY? WHAT DO YOU THINK? MAN: EXCELLENT.
BOBBY: YEE-HAW BOYS, HO! I TRAVEL BACK TO THE MIGHTY MISSISSIPPI AND HITCH A RIDE ON A WORKING BOAT HEADING NORTH.
AFTER CROSSING THE STATE LINE INTO MISSISSIPPI STATE I AM HEADING FOR THE OLD SOUTHERN RIVER TOWNS OF NATCHEZ AND VICKSBURG.
THIS HAS ALWAYS BEEN A WORKING RIVER, THESE DAYS OVER 60% OF ALL THE GRAIN EXPORTED FROM THE U.
S.
IS SHIPPED DOWN THE MISSISSIPPI.
THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER IS THE LONGEST RIVER IN THE UNITED STATES STRETCHING 2,200 MILES ACROSS 10 STATES FROM MINNESOTA DOWN TO LOUISIANA.
[PLAYS HARMONICA.]
CARLA JENKINS OWNS THIS BOAT AND WAS BORN AND RAISED ON THE RIVER.
YOU GOT YOURSELF A PRETTY GOOD JOB.
CARLA: YES, I DO.
BOBBY: ROLLING DOWN THE RIVER.
IT SOUNDS LIKE A CREDENCE CLEARWATER SONG.
CARLA: YES, IT DOES.
BOBBY: YOU'RE QUITE THE SOUTHERN LADY, BUT YOU'VE GOT A MAN'S JOB.
CARLA: I DO, I DO.
MY FATHER STARTED THIS BUSINESS IN THE 1950'S, AND INSTEAD OF GOING HOME AFTER SCHOOL AND PLAYING IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD, I CAME OVER HERE ON THE RIVER.
BOBBY: HOW MANY TONS A YEAR DO YOU DO? CARLA: WE PROBABLY RUN FOUR, FIVE, SIX HUNDRED BARGES A YEAR THROUGH HERE.
BOBBY: YOU SEE, THAT'S 300 MILLION TONS UP AND DOWN THE MISSISSIPPI A YEAR.
CARLA: EASILY.
BOBBY: EASILY.
CARLA: IT'S BILLIONS OF DOLLARS OF GOODS.
BILLIONS.
BOBBY: OKAY.
THANK YOU KINDLY.
WHEN I MAKE LANDFALL IN NATCHEZ I DISCOVER IT IS MOS DEFINITELY A TOWN OF TWO HALVES.
FIRSTLY THERE'S THE SLIGHTLY SEEDY BIT DOWN ON THE WATERFRONT.
NATCHEZ USED TO BE THE MOST NOTORIOUS LINING THE BANKS OF THE MISSISSIPPI, ATTRACTING GAMBLERS, KNIFE FIGHTERS.
IT'S ACTUALLY WHERE JIM BOWIE SLICED A MAN OPEN RIGHT THERE ON THE BANKS OF THE RIVER, AND THE PLACE WOULD BE FILLED WITH TONS OF SALOONS AND BARS, BUT THIS IS THE ONLY ONE LEFT.
THEN THERE'S THE POSH, AND I DO MEAN POSH BIT UP ON THE TOP OF THE HILL.
IN THE MIDDLE OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY, THE CITY BECAME THE HOME OF EXTREMELY WEALTHY SOUTHERN PLANTERS, WHO OWNED VAS TRACTS OF LAND WHERE THEY GREW LARGE CROPS OF COTTON AND SUGAR CANE USING SLAVE LABOR.
THESE CROPS WERE THEN SHIPPED DOWN THE MISSISSIPPI TO THE REST OF THE U.
S.
AND ONTO EUROPE.
THESE PLANTATIONS OWNERS MADE HUGE FORTUNES AND BUILT THESE GRAND HOUSES TO SHOW OFF THEIR INCREDIBLE WEALTH.
BUILT IN 1856, DUNLEITH IS ONE OF ALMOST 700 OF THESE BEAUTIFUL MANSIONS DOTTED THROUGHOUT NATCHEZ.
THIS HOUSE KIND OF REMINDS ME OF TARA FROM "GONE WITH THE WIND.
" TAKES YOU BACK IN TIME.
TERRY TROVATO TELLS ME MORE ABOUT THE OPULENT LIFE LIVED IN THESE AMAZING HOUSES.
WHEN WAS THIS HOUSE BUILT? TERRY: IT WAS BUILT IN 1856 BY BOBBY: 1856.
TERRY: YES, SIR.
BOBBY: PLANTATION HOUSE OR TOWNHOUSE? TERRY: IT'S CONSIDERED A TOWNHOUSE.
THE PLANTATIONS WERE IN LOUISIANA ACROSS THE RIVER, BUT THEY WANTED A LAVISH LIFESTYLE AND LAVISH ENTERTAINING, AND IN THE 19TH CENTURY PRIOR TO THE WAR, THERE WAS A LOT OF THAT, SO THEY CAME TO NATCHEZ AND BUIL THESE HOMES.
BOBBY: THEY TELL ME THERE ARE MORE MILLIONAIRES HERE THAN IN NEW YORK CITY.
TERRY: BECAUSE THEY MADE SO MUCH MONEY WITH THEIR COTTON PLANTATIONS.
WHEN THEY CALLED IT KING COTTON, THEY WEREN'T KIDDING.
BOBBY: THAT'S RIGHT, BU THEN YOU GOT CHEAP LABOR, OR FREE LABOR.
TERRY: WELL, YES, THEY HAD FREE LABOR IN THE FIELDS.
THAT'S EXACTLY CORRECT.
BOBBY: OKAY.
THE ONLY BAD PART OF THAT FORMULA WAS THAT.
THIS IS OPULENCE AT IT'S FINEST.
TERRY: AS IT WOULD HAVE LOOKED IN 1856 WHEN THE HOUSE WAS BUILT.
THE MANTLES ARE ITALIAN MARBLE.
THEY WERE BROUGH HERE FROM ITALY.
THEY DID THINGS LIKE THA TO DRESS UP THESE HOUSES.
BOBBY: THEY COULDN'T GE DECENT WORKMEN TO CUT THE CURTAINS THE RIGHT SIZE? TERRY: BOBBY, THA WAS A SHOW OF WEALTH.
THAT'S CALLED PUDDLING THE DRAPES.
IT'S SAYING, "WE HAVE SO MUCH MONEY WE CAN BUY MORE DRAPE THAN WE NEED.
" BOBBY: THAT'S CALLED BAD WORKMANSHIP IN MY WORLD.
THEN THE ARCHITECTURE, THE ACTUAL FRAME OF THE HOUSE AND DESIGN OF HIT.
TERRY: IT WAS ALL GREEK REVIVAL.
IT HAS 26 COLUMNS GOING ALL THE WAY AROUND.
IT'S CALLED FULLY COLLIMATED.
THAT'S THE STYLE THEY WANTED.
IT'S ALL GREEK REVIVAL, AND IT'S ALL ACTUALLY BRICK.
BOBBY: HOW MUCH DID A HOUSE LIKE THIS COST? TERRY: IT SOLD IN 1859 FOR $30,000, AND THAT WOULD BE THE EQUIVALENT TODAY OF ABOUT $755,000.
BOBBY: THAT'S IT FOR THIS FOUR-BEDROOM DELUXE JOIN WITH 40 ACRES? TERRY: THAT'S EXACTLY RIGHT.
IT SOLD FOR $30,000 IN 1859? BOBBY: HOW DID THEY COME TO AMERICA AND INVEST A HOUSE VERY CHEAP, WHY NOT? THESE RICH WHITE OWNERS WITH THEIR FRENCH CHEF'S WERE HEAVILY INFLUENCED BY THE EUROPEAN TASTE FOR SWEETS AND PASTRIES, AND THESE TRADITIONS ENDUE TO THIS DAY, AS SHELLY RODGERS EXPLAINS.
SHELLY: WHEN I THINK ABOUT THESE DESSERTS, I THINK ABOUT MY GRANDMOTHER'S KITCHEN, WALKING IN, SMELLING ALL THESE SWEET SMELLS.
WE HAVE A MISSISSIPPI MUD PIE.
BOBBY: THAT'S RICH, HUH? SHELLY: IT'S VERY RICH, IT'S ALL RICH.
SO WHAT DO YOU THINK? BOBBY: IT'S DELICIOUS.
SHELLY: THEN, WE HAVE OUR WHITE CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDING? BOBBY: GOD, THAT'S GOOD.
[LAUGHTER.]
.
THE PROBLEM IS IT'S ADDICTIVE BECAUSE YOU'VE NEVER TASTED ANYTHING LIKE THAT.
WHAT IS IT? IT'S LIKE WHEN I TASTE THIS, BOARDING SCHOOL, FIRSTLY, SO WE'VE GOT LIKE A REAL LOW STANDARD TO START WITH.
SHELLY: OKAY.
BOBBY: OKAY, BUT THEN THIS I'M SORRY, THIS IS PROBABLY THE BEST BREAD PUDDING I'VE EVER HAD.
IT REALLY IS AMAZING HOW FOR ONE SHORT MOMENT IN TIME, BECAUSE OF A SET OF VERY SPECIFIC CIRCUMSTANCES, SO MUCH WEALTH CAN GRAVITATE TO ONE PLACE.
THE PRIVILEGED WORLD OF THE PLANTATION OWNERS CAME CRASHING DOWN AT THE OUTSET OF THE CIVIL WAR.
THE SOUTHERN ECONOMY WAS DEVASTATED AS THIS IS WHERE MOST OF THE FIGHTING OCCURRED.
AN HOUR NORTH OF NATCHEZ IS VICKSBURG.
THIS TOWN WAS PIVOTAL DURING THE CIVIL WAR PURELY FOR IT'S LOCATION AND TOPOGRAPHY.
ALTHOUGH THE WAR WAS ABOU FREEING THE SLAVES IN THE SOUTH, IT WAS AS MUCH ABOU THE SOUTH'S REFUSAL TO PAY THE NEW TRADE TAXES ON GOODS BEING EXPORTED VIA THE MISSISSIPPI, WHICH WERE BEING LEVIED BY THE RECENTLY INSTALLED LINCOLN GOVERNMENT IN THE NORTH.
ABE LINCOLN SAID THA VICKSBURG IS THE KEY, AND JEFFERSON DAVIS KNEW I WAS VITAL TO HOLD THE CITY FOR THE CONFEDERACY TO SURVIVE.
LOCAL HISTORIAN DAVE MAGGIO TAKES UP THIS SAD STORY OF BROTHER FIGHTING BROTHER.
DAVE: THIS RIVER WAS VITALLY IMPORTANT IN THAT IN 1863, THERE WERE NO BASIC HIGHWAYS.
THIS WAS THE HIGHWAY.
WHEN YOU BROUGHT YOUR PRODUCT FROM ILLINOIS, INDIANA, THE NORTHERN PART OF THE UNITED STATES DOWN THROUGH NEW ORLEANS TO THE REST OF THE WORLD, IT CAME DOWN THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER.
BOBBY: SO THIS PLACE RIGH HERE DICTATED THE OUTCOME OF THE WAR.
DAVE: YES, IN MANY SENSES, EXACTLY RIGHT.
THIS AREA IS THE HIGHEST AREA FROM MEMPHIS ALL THE WAY TO BATON ROUGE, SO IN ORDER TO CONTROL THAT RIVER FOR GENERAL GRANT TO GET HIS IRONCLAD SHIPS DOWN IN FRONT OF VICKSBURG, HIS MEN HAD TO RUN THESE BATTERIES, SO YOU CAN IMAGINE THE AMOUN OF FIREPOWER THAT WAS SITTING ON THESE HILLS THAT WAS FIRING AND PROTECTING THE CITY.
THIS IS THE COURTHOUSE.
IT WOULD HAVE BEEN HERE DURING THE CAMPAIGN IN THE BATTLE FOR VICKSBURG.
IT WAS USED AS A HOSPITAL FOR THE SOLDIERS THAT WERE CAPTURED.
BOBBY: WHEN I THINK OF THE CIVIL WAR, I THINK CARNAGE.
A LOT OF PEOPLE DIED.
DAVE: DURING THE CAMPAIGN HERE IN VICKSBURG, THERE WERE ABOUT 20,000 MEN THAT DIED IN THIS CAMPAIGN.
THE ONES THAT WERE KILLED HERE IN VICKSBURG WERE BURIED IN A NATIONAL CEMETERY NORTH OF TOWN.
BOBBY: VICKSBURG MARKS THE SOUTHERN EXTENT OF THE MISSISSIPPI DELTA, A FLA ALLUVIAL PLAIN BETWEEN THE YAZOO AND THE MISSISSIPPI RIVERS.
I'M TRAVELING UP TO THE AGRICULTURAL TOWN OF GREENWOOD.
THIS IS THE AREA WHERE MUCH OF THE FOOD PRODUCED IN THE DELTA STARTS IT'S JOURNEY DOWN THE MISSISSIPPI.
A COMBINATION OF RICH SOIL AND MILD TEMPERATURES MAKES THIS THE EPICENTER OF AGRICULTURE IN THE UNITED STATES, COVERING MORE THAN FOUR MILLION ACRES.
HISTORICALLY, THIS IS THE HOME OF COTTON.
SADLY WITH THE CHANGE IN WORLD COMMODITY PRICES IT IS NO LONGER ECONOMIC TO GROW MUCH COTTON HERE ANYMORE, BUT WITH SOIL THIS FERTILE THERE IS ALWAYS A BUCK OR TWO TO BE MADE ON THIS LAND.
DUDLEY PLEASANTS MANAGES THE WHITTINGTON FARM JUST OUTSIDE GREENWOOD.
SO DUDLEY, THIS WOULD HAVE BEEN COTTON FIELDS IN THE OLD DAYS.
DUDLEY: YES, JUST ABOU EVERYWHERE AROUND HERE HAD COTTON GROWN IN IT, AND OF COURSE THE BOTTOM LINE IS WHA WE'RE ALL CONCERNED ABOUT, THE MOST MONEY WE CAN MAKE, SO WE HAD TO KIND OF GO WITH THE TIME.
BOBBY: NOW, YOU CAN' COMPETE WITH COTTON BECAUSE THE CHINESE HAVE TAKEN OVER.
DUDLEY: THAT'S THE WAY IT GOES.
NOTHING WE CAN DO ABOUT THAT.
RIGHT NOW, IT'S A SPLI BETWEEN CORN AND SOY BEANS.
BOBBY: SO THIS IS WHA THE FUSS IS ALL ABOUT? THIS RIGHT HERE? DUDLEY: THIS IS IT, BOBBY.
THIS IS KNOWN AS FIELD CORN, ROUNDUP-READY FIELD CORN.
BOBBY: OKAY, CAN I TAKE SOME OF THIS BACK.
DUDLEY: SURE, SURE GET YOU BUCKET.
BOBBY: I CAN MAKE A MEAL OUT OF THIS.
DUDLEY: OKAY.
BOBBY: THE FARM IS OWNED BY BILLY WHITTINGTON AND HIS WIFE AUBREY.
THEY ARE AVID COLLECTORS OF RURAL ANTIQUES AND MEMORABILIA AND ACTUALLY MOVED THIS WHOLE HOUSE BRICK BY BRICK FROM THE MIDDLE OF TOWN WHERE I WAS ABOUT TO BE DEMOLISHED.
YOU MAY THINK YOU RECOGNIZE IT AND YOU WOULD BE RIGHT, BECAUSE THIS HOUSE AND HALF OF GRAND BOULEVARD WAS USED FOR THE LOCATION OF THE MOVIE "THE HELP.
" BILLY AND AUBREY'S FRIEND AND SOUTHERN FOOD QUEEN, MARTHA FOOSE USES SOME OF THE ANTIC GRINDING EQUIPMEN TO PRODUCE SOME OF THE INGREDIENTS FOR HER FOOD.
THEIR PASSION FOR SAVING BUILDINGS DIDN'T JUST STOP A THIS PLANTATION HOUSE.
THEY'VE ALSO MANAGED TO PRESERVE A WHOLE COMMUNITY OF SHARECROPPER HOMES IN THEIR ORIGINAL STATE AND NOW REN THEM OUT AS GUEST HOUSES.
SYLVESTER HOOVER WAS BROUGHT UP ON THE FARM AND TELLS ME A LITTLE MORE ABOUT THE HISTORY OF THE PLACE.
SYLVESTER: THESE WERE SOME OF THE HOUSES THAT WHERE PEOPLE LIVED IN, SLAVERY REALLY LIVED IN THESE HOUSES, AND AFTER CIVIL WAR, YOU KNOW, WE GOT NOT SLAVERY, BUT WE GOT TO BE SHARE-CROPPERS.
THAT'S REALLY NOT FREE.
IT'S STILL EVERYTHING DICTATED BY THE BOSS MAN OR THE WHITE MAN.
MY HOUSE HAD 11 PEOPLES LIVING IN IT, AND IT WAS A SHACK LIKE THIS.
I WAS BORN POOR.
ALL MY LIFE, I'VE BEEN POOR.
I THOUGHT I WAS SUPPOSED TO BE POOR.
BOBBY: TELL ME A LITTLE BI ABOUT YOUR TIMES BEFORE THE CIVIL RIGHTS.
SYLVESTER: BEFORE THE CIVIL RIGHTS, WE HAD NO RIGHTS.
IF YOU WAS A BLACK MALE, YOU HAD TO BE IN SOMEBODY'S COTTON FIELD WORKING.
THEY WOULD GIVE YOU A YEAR IN JAIL JUST FOR NO GOING TO WORK.
MY SISTER HAD POLIO IN ONE LEG, AND SHE WOULD HAVE TO PICK AND CHOP COTTON.
SHE COULDN'T STAY HOME.
COULDN'T NOBODY STAY HOME.
IT WAS TERRIBLE.
IT WAS A TERRIBLE SITUATION, AND I'M THE YOUNGES OF NINE SIBLINGS.
MOM WOULD SEND HER GIRLS TO CHICAGO WHEN THEY GE 13 YEARS OLD BECAUSE SHE DIDN'T WANT THE BOSS MAN TO FLIRT WITH HER DAUGHTERS.
WHATEVER THE BOSS MAN TELL YOU, YOU WOULD HAVE TO DO IT.
WE NEVER SAID NO.
THE RULE THEY HAD HERE IN THE MISSISSIPPI DELTA SAID ONE WHITE MAN COULD CONTROL 500 BLACKS.
YOU WOULD PICK COTTON ALL DAY LONG, AND THIS PLACE YOU WOULD SEE 100 PEOPLES OUT THERE PICKING COTTON RIGH NOW, AND THEY WOULD BE DRAGGING THOSE BAGS ON THEY SHOULDER, AND THOSE BAGS WOULD WEIGH 150-60 POUNDS, AND THEY WOULD SING BLUES TO KEEP THEY'RE MIND OFF THAT BACK-BREAKING WORK.
AND WHEN THE BOSS MAN COME UP, THEY WOULD QUI SINGING THEIR BLUES, AND THEY WOULD START HUMMING "MMM-MMM-MMM.
" THE BOSS MAN SAID, "WHY ARE YOU HUMMING?" HE WOULD SAY, "I DON' WANT THE DEVIL TO KNOW WHA I'M TALKING ABOUT.
" IN REALITY, TELLING EVERYBODY ELSE THE BOSS MAN IS HERE.
THEY HAD MESSAGE IN THEY MUSIC.
BOBBY: SO HOW IS IT NOW? SYLVESTER: NOW, IT'S DIFFERENT BUT STILL THE SAME.
IF I GOT PLENTY OF MONEY, I'M FINE, BUT IF I'M LIKE ME, BROKE, I'M KIND OF SEPARATE OR DIFFERENT.
YOU KNOW, BU THAT'S THE WAY IT GOES.
BOBBY: BILLY HAS TURNED UP A THE SHARE CROPPER HOUSES WITH SOME BUDDIES FOR A BIT OF SOUL FOOD SO THIS IS A GREA OPPORTUNITY FOR ME TO SEE HOW MARTHA COOKS SOME ICONIC SOUTHERN DISHES.
AWARD-WINNING COOKBOOK AUTHOR, MISS MARTHA, IS GOING TO TEACH US CLASSIC SOUTHERN DISHES OF GRITS, CATFISH, AND FRIED GREEN TOMATOES.
FIRST MARTHA ADDS A MIXTURE OF HALF AND HALF WHICH IS HALF CREAM AND HALF MILK TO SOME HOT SALTED WATER BEFORE I ADD THE GROUND CORNMEAL.
MARTHA: WE'RE GOING TO PUT A LITTLE BIT OF FRESH THYME IN THERE.
BOBBY: OKAY.
MARTHA: ALL RIGHT, NOW WE'RE GOING TO COOK OUR FRIED GREEN TOMATOES, PUT THE TOP ON, LET THA COOK ABOUT 20 MINUTES, AND THEN WE'LL TURN I OFF AND LET THEM STAND SO THEY CAN BLOOM.
BOBBY: I LIKE THA IDEA OF BLOOMING.
IT'S A NICE THING.
MARTHA: THEY PUFF UP REALLY NICELY.
SO, FOR OUR FRIED GREEN TOMATOES, FIRST THING WE'RE GOING TO DO IS MAKE A LITTLE BUTTERMILK AND EGG WASH.
NICE LITTLE EGG HERE FROM MY FRIEND, MISS HATTIE, AND WE'RE GOING TO USE SOME BUTTERMILK IN THIS.
YOU WANT TO GIVE THIS A QUICK LITTLE BEAT? WE'RE GOING TO SEASON UP OUR FLOUR.
WE'LL PUT JUST A LITTLE BIT OF BLACK PEPPER IN HERE, AND THEN WE'LL PUT A LITTLE BIT OF HOT PAPRIKA IN HERE.
SO LET'S CUT UP OUR TOMATOES BOBBY: THIS IS ACTUALLY A EUROPEAN DISH FINDING A USE FOR UNRIPPENED TOMATOES THAT HAS BECOME ASSOCIATED WITH THE SOUTH.
OKAY.
MARTHA: THIS IS REALLY SOR OF SHARECROPPER TYPE FOOD, AND SO MOST OF THESE INGREDIENTS CAN BE FOUND WITHIN HALF A MILE OF WHERE WE'RE STANDING RIGHT NOW.
YOU KNOW, WE REALLY KIND OF HAVE THA "MAKE DO WITH WHAT YOU HAVE" MENTALITY AND REALLY TAKE SOME KIND OF HUMBLE INGREDIENTS AND TRY TO ELEVATE THEM.
WE'RE GOING TO DREDGE THEM IN A LITTLE BIT OF FLOUR THA WE'VE SEASONED WITH PAPRIKA AND SALT AND PEPPER, THEN WE'RE GOING TO DIP THEM IN OUR EGG WASH, AND THEN INTO OUR CORNMEAL THAT WE GROUND WITH BILLY AND ALBERT.
BOBBY: IT'S, IN FACT, THE AFRICAN TRADITION OF FRYING FOODS BROUGHT OVER BY SLAVES THAT IS ALSO THOUGH TO HAVE GIVEN THIS DISH ITS SOUTHERN TOUCH.
OKAY, NOW THE FISH.
MARTHA: SO FOR OUR U.
S.
FARM-RAISED CATFISH, WE'RE GOING TO TAKE THESE, AND LET'S CUT THEM INTO SOME SMALLER PIECES.
BOBBY: YOU WANT THEM IN HALF LIKE THAT? MARTHA: THAT WOULD BE GREAT, AND IT'S SUCH A GREAT FISH BECAUSE IT'S REALLY MILD IN FLAVOR, AND PEOPLE THAT ARE KIND OF NOT INTO OILY FISH OR SOMETHING THAT'S REALLY STRONG, THEN YOU CAN KIND OF FLAVOR IT HOWEVER.
BOBBY: I'M GRABBING YOU.
MARTHA: HOWEVER YOU'D LIKE.
BOBBY: MY GOODNESS.
MARTHA: A TRUE SOUTHERN GENTLEMAN, HERE HE IS.
BOBBY: THAT'S RIGHT.
MARTHA: ALL RIGHT, SO WHA WE'RE GOING TO DO NOW IS WE'RE JUST GOING TO DREDGE OUR FISH RIGHT INTO OUR CORNMEAL.
I THINK YOU'LL REALLY FIND THAT THIS FRESHLY GROUND MEAL HAS SUCH A NUTTY KIND OF TASTE TO IT, AND WE CAN COOK OUR TOMATOES AT THE SAME TIME.
BOBBY: OKAY.
MARTHA: SO WE CAN PUT THESE RIGHT IN OUR COOKER HERE.
BOBBY: OKAY.
MARTHA: THESE ARE GOING TO TAKE ABOUT NINE MINUTES OR SO AND ABOUT TWO OR THREE MINUTES ON THE TOMATOES.
BOBBY: OK, I'VE JUST GO TIME TO NIP INTO ONE OF THESE SHARECROPPER HOUSE'S WHERE SYLVESTER'S WIFE MARY IS COOKING ANOTHER ICONIC SOUTHERN DISH.
MARY! MARY: YES.
BOBBY: I HEAR YOU'RE THE QUEEN OF FRIED CHICKEN.
MARY: CORRECT, CORRECT.
BOBBY: I'VE COME IN HERE TO LEARN.
MARY: LET'S GET STARTED.
I'M GOING TO SHOW YOU WHAT WE GOING TO DO.
YOU TAKE YOUR BLACK PEPPER.
YOU SHAKE IT ON EACH ONE OF YOUR CHICKEN.
YOU SHAKE IT ALL OVER THERE LIKE THAT.
BOBBY: YOU SHAKE, RATTLE, AND ROLL.
MARY: LET'S SHAKE IT NOW.
YOU SEE HOW PRETTY THE CHICKEN LOOKING ALREADY.
NOW WE'RE GOING TO TAKE THE SALT.
WE'RE GOING TO TAKE IT.
YOU GOT TO BE CAREFUL WITH THAT SALT.
BOBBY: YOU DON' WANT TOO MUCH SALT.
MARY: NO, NO.
BOBBY: OKAY SO SAL AND PEPPER, THAT'S IT.
MARY: YES, SALT AND PEPPER, AND ALSO BOBBY, YOU GOT TO COOK WITH LOVE.
IF YOU DON'T COOK WITH LOVE, YOUR FOOD AIN'T GOING TO TASTE WORTH NOTHING.
YOU GOT IT, BOBBY? BOBBY: MMM-HMM.
MARY: YOU SURE, BOBBY? BOBBY: CALL ME BOBBY LOVE.
MARY: WOO! SEE BOBBY, LOOK, THIS BROWN PAPER BAG, LOOK AT THAT.
LOOK AT THAT FLOUR IN THAT.
THEN, YOU KNOW WHAT? YOU SEE THIS FLOUR IN THIS BAG? WE'RE GOING TO DROP THE CHICKEN IN HERE.
WE'RE GOING TO THIS A THIGH, THIS A BREAST, TWO WINGS.
BOBBY: AFTER WRONGLY ASSOCIATED WITH SOUTHERN AFRICAN AMERICANS SIMPLY BECAUSE THEY WERE ALLOWED TO KEEP CHICKENS ON SMALL PLOTS.
IN FACT, THIS IS ANOTHER EUROPEAN DISH.
MARY: YOU GONNA OWN THIS BOBBY! BOBBY: I'M GONNA OWN THIS! I'M GOING TO COOK IT WITH LOVE! MARY: YES! BOBBY: BY FRYING THE CHICKENS IN A TRADITIONAL WAY, THIS AFRICAN INFLUENCED APPROACH BECAME SYNONYMOUS WITH THE SOUTH.
SO YOU GO SKIN SIDE FIRST OR MARY: INSIDE.
YOUR SKIN YOU PUT THE INSIDE FIRST.
BOBBY: FIRST? MARY: HERE WE GOT A WING.
WE GOING TO SHAKE IT, TAKE THAT WING, AND FOLD THAT WING, DROP, YOU CAN MAKE THEM FLARE UP IN THERE, STAY UNDER.
BOBBY: OKAY, THAT'S A GREAT TIP, MARY.
MARY: YEAH, THANK YOU, BOBBY.
BOBBY: BECAUSE A LOT OF PEOPLE DON'T KNOW HOW TO FRY CHICKEN CORRECTLY.
MARY: FOR REAL? BOBBY: YEAH.
MARY: WOO, LOOK A THAT SKIN, BOBBY.
A LOT OF PEOPLE DON'T LIKE THAT SKIN, BUT YOU KNOW.
BOBBY: THAT SKIN'S GREAT WHEN IT'S CRISPY.
MARY: OH, THERE, WATCH THERE, BOBBY.
TALKING TO YOU, DANCING.
BOBBY: OH, I LOVE THAT.
MARY: OOH, LOOK AT THAT, BOBBY.
LET'S DROP ANOTHER ONE IN THERE.
YOU SEE THE CHICKEN? BOBBY: ART IN PROGRESS.
MARY: GIVE ME A FLOUR-HAND HIGH FIVE.
AY, CHECK IT OUT.
COOKING WITH LOVE.
BOBBY: MMM.
MARY: THAT'S BEAUTIFUL.
BOBBY: HOW DO YOU KNOW WHEN TO TURN IT, BECAUSE YOU CAN'T SEE ANYTHING WITH ALL THOSE BUBBLES.
MARY: WELL, SEE, WHAT YOU GOING TO DO, YOU HAVE TO PICK IT UP, BOBBY, SEE HOW IT BROWN IN THERE.
YOU GOT TO PICK I UP AND CHECK IT.
BOBBY: YOU WANT TO GO GOLDEN BROWN.
MARY: GOLDEN BROWN.
BOBBY: IT'S GOING TO NEED MORE, BECAUSE IT NEEDS MORE LOVE.
MARY: RIGHT.
IT NEED MORE LOVE, BOBBY, THERE'S THAT ONE BOBBY: LOVE TAKES TIME.
MARY: RIGHT, RIGHT.
SO BOBBY, YOU KNOW WHAT WE NEED TO DO NOW? BOBBY: YEAH, PU THE LID ON IT.
MARY: WE NEED TO PUT THIS LID ON HERE.
BOBBY: HOW LONG DO YOU PUT THE LID ON, ROUGHLY, ON AVERAGE.
MARY: ABOUT TWO TO MAYBE, ABOUT TWO MINUTES.
BOBBY: SO YOU'RE GOING TO COOK IT LIKE SAY FOUR OR FIVE MINUTES, PUT THE LID ON, THIS HELPS.
MARY: UH-HUH, THEN WE FLIP IT OVER, WE LET IT COOK A LITTLE MORE WITH THE AIR AND LET IT BROWN.
BOBBY: MARY, IT LOOKS ABSOLUTELY DELICIOUS.
MARY: OOH, THANK YOU.
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP.
BOBBY: YOU GOING OUTSIDE? MARY: MMM-HMM.
BOBBY: I SEE YOU IN A BIT.
MARY: OKAY.
BOBBY: THANK YOU, SUGAR.
MARY: THANK YOU, BOBBY.
DON'T FORGET BOBBY: COOK WITH LOVE.
MARY: YOU GOT IT.
BOBBY: RIGHT, I'M BACK WITH MARTHA AND IT LOOKS LIKE THE GRITS ARE ABOUT DONE.
OKAY.
SO THE GRITS ARE PERFECT, THE TOMATO'S ARE GOLDEN BROWN AND THE FISH IS DONE TO A TURN.
EXCELLENT, NOW WHERE'S THE PARTY? WOMAN: OVER AT THE COMMISSARY.
BOBBY: READY TO ROLL.
WOMAN: ALL RIGHT, COME ON, LET'S GO.
BOBBY: YOU GUYS ALL, THANK YOU FOR YOUR SOUTHERN HOSPITALITY.
I'M COMING BACK.
GOOD FOOD, COOKED WITH LUUUV OF COURSE, GREAT SOUTHERN HOSPITALITY AND FANTASTIC MUSIC.
MAN: GOING DOWN TO THE RIVER, GOING TO GET MYSELF A DRINK.
GOING DOWN TO THE RIVER, GOING TO GET MYSELF A DRINK.
BOBBY: AFTER ALL THIS IS THE HOME OF DELTA BLUES.
IT'S TIME TO LEAVE MY NEW FOUND FRIENDS BEHIND AND MAKE THE FINAL LEG OF MY TRIP.
PAUSING IN THE SMALL MISSISSIPPI TOWN OF TUPELO, BEFORE REACHING JOURNEY'S END IN MEMPHIS TENNESSEE.
NOW WHY COME TO TUPELO YOU MIGHT ASK, WELL, GRANTED IT'S FAIRLY UNREMARKABLE, UNTIL YOU TAKE INTO ACCOUN THAT IT IS CONSIDERED BY SOME TO BE THE BIRTH PLACE OF ROCK AND ROLL.
APART FROM THE BLUES, A LOT OF OTHER SOUNDS, INCLUDING ROCK-N-ROLL, CAME FROM THE DEEP SOUTH, AND THE ONE MAN TO LINK THEM ALL TOGETHER WAS ELVIS AARON PRESLEY.
THIS IS THE ACTUAL HOUSE WHERE ELVIS WAS BORN ON JANUARY 8TH, 1935.
YOU CAN'T HELP BUT FEEL LIKE YOU'RE WALKING IN THE FOOTSTEPS WHERE HISTORY WAS MADE, BECAUSE THIS IS WHERE IT ALL BEGAN.
SO THIS IS IT.
THIS IS WHERE VERNON, THE FATHER, GLADYS, THE MOTHER, AND ELVIS ACTUALLY LIVED, AND THEY PROBABLY DID EVERYTHING RIGHT HERE.
THIS WAS THE KITCHEN, LIVING ROOM, DINING ROOM, NO ELECTRICITY, NO WATER.
THEY HAD AN OUTHOUSE OUTSIDE.
THIS IS THE BIRTHPLACE OF THE KING.
ELVIS PRESLEY'S FIRS MANAGER, SAM PHILLIPS, SAID, "HE SANG LIKE A BLACK MAN.
" THAT'S BECAUSE HE LEARNED OUT TO SING JUST OVER THERE.
GROUP: I WANT TO BE IN THAT NUMBER WHEN THE SAINTS GO MARCHING IN.
WOMAN: OH WHEN THE SAINTS GROUP: OH WHEN THE SAINTS WOMAN: GO MARCHING IN.
GROUP: GO MARCHING IN.
BOBBY: AND THAT'S WHAT IT'S ALL ABOUT.
EVEN THE HARDWARE STORE IN TUPELO HAS AN "ELVIS" STORY TO TELL.
I'M GUESSING THIS IS WHERE SOMEONE IS THIS WHERE ELVIS STOOD? MAN: THAT IS EXACTLY WHERE ELVIS STOOD WITH HIS MOTHER.
THEY CAME IN OUR STORE IN 1945, AND THEY CAME IN AND BOUGHT ELVIS A GUITAR.
BOBBY: THIS IS THE SPOT RIGHT HERE.
MAN: YOU ARE STANDING RIGHT ON THE SPOT RIGHT THERE.
BOBBY: OKAY, I HEARD HE WAS LOOKING FOR A GUN.
MAN: THAT'S RIGHT, AND HIS MOTHER SAID NO TO THE GUN, AND ELVIS GOT ALL UPSE BECAUSE HIS MAMA WOULDN' LET HIM HAVE THE RIFLE, OR THE GUN.
BOBBY: SO YOU SOLD HIM HIS FIRST GUITAR.
DID YOU MEET ELVIS? MAN: WELL, I'VE BEEN IN THE SAME ROOM WITH ELVIS UP IN MEMPHIS, BUT NO I'VE NEVER TOUCHED HIM, BUT THAT'S ABOUT ALL I CAN THINK TO SAY ON THAT.
BOBBY: ANOTHER ONE OF THE POPULAR "ELVIS" SPOTS IN TUPELO IS HERE A JOHNNIES DRIVE IN.
ELVIS LOVED HIS BURGER AND HE USED TO EAT HER AT JOHNNY'S AS A KID, AND WHEN HE GOT HIS FIRST HIT SINGLE, "IT'S ALL RIGHT, MAMA," BACK ON JULY 5TH, 1954, HE CAME BACK HERE AND CELEBRATED WITH HIS FRIENDS.
AND I'M MEETING THOSE VERY SAME FRIENDS IN THE VERY SAME BOOTH SPOOKY.
NOW GUY, SAM YOU GUYS WERE FRIENDS WITH ELVIS.
BOTH: RIGHT.
BOBBY: YOU GUYS USED TO EAT HERE AS KIDS.
MAN: THE HAMBURGER HERE WAS A DIME BACK IN THOSE DAYS, AND THE SOF DRINK WAS A NICKEL.
THERE WAS A LOT OF DAYS ALL OF US TOGETHER COULDN'T HAVE BOUGHT JUST ONE BURGER, YOU KNOW? BOBBY: WHOA, YOU SPLIT IT THREE WAYS? MAN: WELL, YEAH, WE HAD A DIME.
BOBBY: THIS IS YOU.
MAN 2: THAT'S ME, YEAH.
BOBBY: ELVIS, RIGHT THERE, RIGHT? MAN 2: YEAH, THIS IS WHEN HE MOVED INTO OUR NEIGHBORHOOD, AND WE GOT TO BE REAL GOOD FRIENDS.
WE SPENT A LOT OF TIME TOGETHER.
BOBBY: SO AS A KID, HE WAS LIVING IN A PREDOMINANTLY POOR BLACK NEIGHBORHOOD.
MAN 2: RIGHT.
BOBBY: HE WAS SINGING GOSPEL.
MAN 2: RIGHT.
BOBBY: DOES HE TELL YOU, ANY OF YOU GUYS, THAT "I'M THINKING OF GOING TO BE A SINGER AND.
" MAN 2: NOT AT OUR AGE, NO, WE HAD NO IDEA.
WE THOUGHT WE WAS SINGERS PLAYING AROUND WITH A BROOM AND ALL THAT WITH A GUITAR, BUT WE COULDN'T REALLY SING.
WE THOUGHT, BUT THERE WAS NO INKLING THAT ANY OF US WAS GOING TO BE A SONG SINGER OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT.
BOBBY: YOU DIDN'T THINK HE HAD TALENT AS A KID? MAN 2: WELL, HE USED TO SING MAN: NO ONE [INAUDIBLE.]
.
BOBBY: WAS MUSIC A THING FOR YOU GUYS AS CHILDREN? MAN: WE GOT ALL OUR LEARNING FROM CHURCH AND FROM THE BLUES PLAYERS, AND WE USED TO LISTEN TO LIKE MUDDY WATERS AND SOMETHING LIKE THAT, THOSE GUYS, AND WE USED TO HAVE A SANCTIFIED CHURCH, AND WE USED TO GO DOWN THERE AND LISTEN TO THEM, BUT WE STAY OUT THERE, LOOKING IN THROUGH THE WINDOW, BUT HE'D GO INSIDE, AND HE'D GO UP ON STAGE UP THERE, AND HE'D BE UP THERE JUMPING AROUND WITH THEM.
WE JUST THOUGH HE WAS THE FOOL.
WE CALLED HIM "FOOL.
" BOBBY: YOU CALLED ELVIS "FOOL.
" MAN: YEAH, AND THEY WOULD PLAY WITH HIM, AND HE LOVED THAT.
BOBBY: IT MUST'VE BEEN A LITTLE STRANGE ALL OF SUDDEN LIKE, YOU KNOW, NOW HE'S ON TELEVISION, AND HE STARTS DOING THA LITTLE THING WITH HIS HIPS.
MAN: YEAH.
MAN 2: WE WERE KIND OF QUESTIONING, WHAT HE DOING ALL THAT WORK LIKE THAT, BECAUSE WE HAD NO IDEA, IT CAN'T BE; NOT FROM WHERE WE COME FROM.
IT TURNED OUT TO BE HIM AND WE KIND OF FELT REAL PROUD OF THAT.
BOBBY: THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR TIME AND STORIES.
MAN: PLEASURE.
BOBBY: IT'S REALLY NICE TO MEET YOU GUYS.
MAN: GONE THROUGH A LOT OF YEARS.
GLAD TO MEET YOU, YEAH.
ELVIS: WISE MEN SAY ONLY FOOLS RUSH IN.
BOBBY: WAY BEFORE ELVIS HI THE BIG TIME HE AND HIS FAMILY HAD MOVED TO MEMPHIS, AND THA IS WHERE HE BOUGHT WHAT WAS DESTINED TO BECOME ONE OF THE WORLD'S MOST FAMOUS HOUSES.
BEING A BIG ROCK-N-ROLL FAN, I COULDN'T COME TO MEMPHIS WITHOUT VISITING THE KING AND GRACELAND, BUT THAT'S NO WHAT I'M HERE FOR.
I CAME FOR THE FOOD.
A REAL MEMPHIS CLASSIC IS THE MEMPHIS STYLE BARBECUE.
IN THE SOUTH THEY TAKE BARBECUE REALLY SERIOUSLY, BUT IN MEMPHIS THEY TAKE IT RRREEEEAAAALLY SERIOUSLY.
IT SEEMS LIKE EVERY NEIGHBOR'S GOT A BARBECUE JOINT IN THIS TOWN.
WHAT'S THE SECRE TO YOUR BARBECUE.
WOMAN: SLAW AND THE SAUCE.
IT'S THE COMBINATION OF EVERYTHING.
BOBBY: OKAY, SO IF I DON' HAVE THE RECIPE FOR THE SLAW, I COULDN'T REALLY COMPARE IT WITH THE SAUCE.
WOMAN: RIGHT, THAT'S RIGHT.
YOU'RE NOT GOING TO GET EITHER ONE OF THEM.
BOBBY: I JUS FINISHED THE SANDWICH.
YOU KNOW WOMAN: THE WINGS ARE BETTER.
BOBBY: THE WINGS? WOMAN: UH-HUH.
BOBBY: LOOK AT YOU, OH WOMAN: MMM.
BOBBY: AS WE CAN SEE, BARBECUING IS EVERYTHING HERE IN MEMPHIS, AND BEHIND THOSE WALLS THERE IS A WORLD CHAMPION PI MASTER, FOUR TIMES, SO YOU KNOW THIS WOMAN KNOWS HOW TO SWEAT HER MEAT.
WHOA! WOMAN: THIS IS WHAT WE USE WHEN WE TRAVEL AROUND AND COMPETE IN BARBECUE COMPETITIONS.
BOBBY: UH-HUH.
WOMAN: ALL RIGHT, WHAT WE'RE GOING TO BE COOKING TODAY IS PORK BUTTS, WHICH ARE THE TOP OF THE SHOULDER ON THE HOG.
THIS IS THE FA CAP ON THE TOP.
WE WANT TO LEAVE THAT ON TO PROTECT THE MEAT WHILE IT'S COOKING TO MAINTAIN MOISTURE.
BOBBY: THIS IS A BIG SECRET, THE RUB.
WOMAN: THE RUB IS THE STAPLE OF YOUR BARBECUE FLAVOR.
THE THING ABOUT RUB IS, YOU WANT TO BE ABLE TO HAVE A FULL-FLAVORED PROFILE.
YOU DON'T WANT ANY ONE INGREDIENT TO STICK OUT.
THEN WE PUT YELLOW MUSTARD ON TOP OF THAT.
I'M GOING TO RUB THIS IN.
IT'S GOING TO SEAL THAT RUB IN, OKAY? ALL RIGHT, SO NOW WE'RE GOING TO GET THIS IN THE COOKER.
BOBBY: SO THAT SEEMS PRETTY SIMPLETHE SECRET IS IN THE RUB AND THE AMOUNT OF TIME THE MEAT IS COOKED IN THESE AMAZING WOOD BURNING OVENS.
WOMAN: ALL RIGH NOW, AFTER 12 HOURS, THIS IS WHAT MY BABIES WILL LOOK LIKE, AND YOU CAN SEE HOW THE BONE IS COMPLETELY SEPARATED AWAY FROM THE MEAT.
THAT'S MY FIRST INDICATOR THAT THESE ARE READY.
WE SAY IT'S GOOD FROM SQUEAL TO HEAL.
ALL RIGHT, LET'S SEE WHAT THIS LOOKS LIKE.
SEE HOW MOIST? BOBBY: YEP.
CAN I SAMPLE A PIECE OF THAT? WOMAN: IT'S HOT.
BOBBY: OH, THAT IS GOOD.
OKAY, WHAT I'D LIKE TO DO WITH THIS PORK, I WANT YOU TO PULL IT, AND THEN I WANT TO CREATE A DISH FOR YOU, A VIETNAMESE DEEP SOUTH SPRING ROLL USING YOUR PULLED PORK, AND I'M GOING TO USE CHIPOTLE.
IT'S GOING TO BE GOOD.
YOU'RE GOING TO LIKE IT.
WOMAN: FANTASTIC, I CAN'T WAIT.
BOBBY: YOU'RE GOING TO PULL ME SOME PORK, PLEASE.
WOMAN: OKAY.
BOBBY: THAT'S GOOD.
ALL RIGHT, WHILE YOU'RE DOING THAT, I'M GOING TO MAKE THE SAUCE, SO I'M TAKING CHIPOTLE AND A ADOBO SAUCE RIGHT NOW LIKE THAT.
TO OFFSET THE HEAT, I'M GOING TO GIVE IT A LITTLE BROWN SUGAR, LITTLE GARLIC, BECAUSE I DON'T HAVE GARLIC SALT, AND THEN TO THICKEN IT, A LITTLE OLIVE OIL, AND THEN, I'M GOING TO PUREE IT, PULSE IT A COUPLE TIMES.
I'M GOING TO EMULSIFY IT WITH OLIVE OIL.
THEN, BALSAMIC VINEGAR.
FINISH IT WITH A LITTLE CUMIN.
WOMAN: I THINK THAT'S ENOUGH THERE, BOBBY.
BOBBY: THAT'S PERFECT.
WOMAN: AWESOME.
BOBBY: NOW, RICE PAPER.
DIP IT IN WATER.
YOU DON'T ADD TOO MUCH WATER.
OTHERWISE, IT GETS TOO STICKY, AND IT RIPS AND FALLS APART.
JUST PLACE IT DOWN.
YOU'VE GOT TO BE PATIENT WITH THIS.
YOU CAN'T RUSH A SPRING ROLL.
WOMAN: IF THERE'S ANYTHING I KNOW HOW TO DO IS BE PATIENT.
I COOK SLOW BARBECUE.
BOBBY: I KNOW.
I'M GOING TO SPRINKLE A LITTLE CARROT AND CUCUMBER, SO USING DIFFERENT TYPES OF HERBS, A LITTLE SALAD, A LITTLE BIT OF RICE NOODLE.
I'M GOING TO ROLL A LITTLE AND PULL TOWARDS ME SO IT'S NICE AND TIGHT.
I'M GOING TO FOLD HERE.
I'M GOING TO BE VERY GENEROUS WITH THIS, WITH THE PORK, AND THEN A LITTLE BIT OF THE LIME LEAF, AND THEN ROLL AGAIN.
WOMAN: BEAUTIFUL.
BOBBY: THEN THE SAUCE.
WOMAN: THAT IS FABULOUS.
ALL THOSE DIFFEREN FLAVORS GOING ON.
OH MY GOSH.
ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL.
BOBBY: GOOD, THANK YOU.
FROM NEW ORLEANS TO THE CAJUN BAYOU AND UP INTO THE MISSISSIPPI DELTA TO THE CRADLE OF THE CIVIL WAR.
TO THE HOMELAND OF ELVIS, AND HERE INTO MEMPHIS.
THE THREAD THAT BINDS US ALL TOGETHER IS THE MIGHTY MISSISSIPPI, THE FOOD, THE MUSIC, THE INCREDIBLE HOSPITALITY THAT WILL LEAVE AN EVERLASTING IMPRESSION ON ME UNTIL THE DAY I DIE.
ANNOUNCER: STAY TUNED FOR A SPECIAL GLOBE TREKKER EXTRA.
ANNOUNCER: FUNDING FOR THIS PROGRAM IS PROVIDED BY SUBARU.
WOMAN: AT SUBARU, WE BUILD VEHICLES LIKE THE RUGGED OUTBACK.
WITH SYMMETRICAL ALL-WHEEL DRIVE STANDARD AND PLENTY OF CARGO SPACE.
FOR THOSE WHO PACK EVEN MORE ADVENTURE INTO LIFE.
SUBARU A PROUD SPONSOR OF GLOBE TREKKER.
MAN: YOU CAN FIND MORE ABOU THIS SERIES ON OUR WEBSITE.
PROGRAMS FROM THE GLOBE TREKKER SERIES ARE AVAILABLE ON DVD AND NOW ON DEMAND FROM MUSIC FROM THE SERIES IS AVAILABLE ON CD.
YOU CAN ALSO ORDER THE NEW GLOBE TREKKER ANNUAL FEATURING INFORMATION ON FESTIVALS, EVENTS AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES.
TO ORDER GLOBE TREKKER PRODUCTS CALL 1-888-565-0361 OR VISIT THE WEBSITE, ZAY: SITUATED ON THE BANKS OF THE COLORADO RIVER, AUSTIN IS THE CAPITAL OF TEXAS.
THE CITY WAS NAMED AFTER STEPHEN F.
AUSTIN, KNOWN AS THE "FATHER OF TEXAS, AUSTIN HELPED THOUSANDS OF COLONISTS SETTLE THE REGION BACK IN THE 1820'S.
BY THE MID NINETEENTH CENTURY, THE CITY WAS FIRMLY ESTABLISHED AND IT'S IMPRESSIVE STATE CAPITAL BUILDING, THE LARGEST IN THE COUNTRY, COMPETED IN 1888.
TODAY AUSTIN PRESIDES OVER ONE OF THE MOST CONSERVATIVE STATES IN THE U.
S, BUT THE CITIZENS OF THIS TOWN ARE ANYTHING BUT.
AUSTIN'S REPUTATION FOR LIBERAL THINKING AND IT'S OFFBEAT MUSIC AND ART SCENE HAS TURNED IT INTO A MECCA FOR THOSE WHO MARCH TO THE BEAT OF A DIFFERENT DRUM OR AS SOME OF THE LOCALS PROBABLY PUT IT WEIRDOS.
THIS IS SOUTH CONGRESS OR "SO-CO" AND IT'S ONE OF AUSTINS COOLEST NEIGHBORHOODS.
IT'S GOT A GREAT VIBE TO IT.
LOT'S OF QUIRKY SHOPS, FRIENDLY CAFE'S, VINTAGE CLOTHING STORES AND LIVE MUSIC EVERYWHERE.
IT'S KIND OF LIKE PEOPLE GO OUT OF THEIR WAY TO BE A LITTLE DIFFEREN AROUND HERE EVEN WITH FOOD.
HELLO.
WOMAN: HI, HOW ARE YOU? ZAY: GOOD.
WHAT DO YOU GUYS SELL HERE AT WORST-TEX? WOMAN: WE'RE KNOWN FOR EXOTIC MEAT SAUSAGES.
ZAY: INTERESTING.
WHAT IS THE MOS POPULAR DISH HERE? WOMAN: PROBABLY THE PREDATOR AND PREY.
ZAY: WHICH IS WHAT? WOMAN: RATTLESNAKE AND RABBIT WITH JALAPENO PEPPER.
ZAY: WHOA, IN A SAUSAGE? WOMAN: YEAH, IT COMES SERVED IN A BUN WITH YOUR CHOICE OF SAUERKRAUT, GRILLED ONIONS, PEPPERS AND A PICKLE.
ZAY: SHE SOUNDS DELICIOUS.
SO YOU GUYS HAVE A LO OF RATTLESNAKES HERE? WOMAN: YEAH, THEY'RE IN TEXAS FOR SURE.
ZAY: SO YOU JUST THOUGHT, "LET'S JUST PUT THEM INSIDE OF A SAUSAGE?" WOMAN: RIGHT, WHY NOT EAT 'EM? ZAY: SOUNDS GOOD, I'M GONNA TRY THE RATTLESNAKE.
IT'S SOMETHING DIFFERENT, NEVER HAD THAT BEFORE.
WOMAN: HERE'S THE PREDATOR AND PREY.
ZAY: LOOKS BEAUTIFUL.
LOOK AT THAT PRESENTATION.
NICE AND WARM.
M-MM, I WAS EXPECTING SOMETHING CHEWY.
IT TASTES LIKE CHICKEN, JUST KIDDING, IT TASTES LIKE SNAKE.
CANT EVEN HEAR IT RATTLING.
WEIRD.
[CROWD CHEERING.]
[COUNTRY MUSIC PLAYS.]
.
AUSTIN'S UNIQUE WAY OF DOING THINGS ISN'T LIMITED TO ARTISTS LIKE VINCE.
JENNY'S LITTLE LONGHORN SALOON HERE ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF THE CITY MAY LOOK LIKE A TYPICAL TEXAN WATERING HOLE.
BUT YOU KNOW THAT OLD SAYING ABOUT A BOOK AND IT'S COVER.
WELL, EVER SINCE JENNY DECIDED TO SPICE UP HER BINGO SUNDAYS THE PLACE IS PACKED TIGHTER THAN A CHICKEN COOP.
AND ALL IT TOOK WAS A BOARD FULL OF NUMBERS, SOME CORN FEED AND ONE HUNGRY HEN.
WELCOME TO CHICKEN (BLEEP) BINGO! AN UNUSUAL VERSION OF THE GAME WHERE THE BOARDS ARE RIGHT HERE IN THE CHICKEN PEN FOOD IS LAID OUT, THE CHICKEN IS PUT INSIDE IT EATS SOME FOOD AND POOPS OUT ON DIFFEREN SQUARED NUMBERS.
[EVENT ANNOUNCER INAUDIBLE.]
IF IT LINES UP ON YOUR BINGO CARD THAT YOU BOUGHT YOU WIN.
39, LUCKY 39.
LET'S GO 39, COME ON 39! [INAUDIBLE CHATTER.]
.
I NEVER THOUGHT I'D SPEND SO MUCH TIME STARING AT A CHICKENS BEHIND, BU WITH PRIZE MONEY SET AT $114, NOBODY'S BLINKING.
YOU'RE STANDING ON 39 JUST GO RIGHT NOW.
[CROWD CHEERS.]
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39! RIGHT THERE ON 39.
UNBELIEVABLE! I LOVE YOU, I LOVE YOU, THAT'S INCREDIBLE.
MAN: ALRIGHT, 39, THA IS THE WINNING NUMBER.
WHAT IS YOUR NAME SIR? ZAY: ZAY.
MAN: ARE YOU HERE WITH A COUPLE OF FRIENDS ZAY? ZAY: I AM, I'M HERE WITH MY CREW FOR "GLOBE TREKKER.
" [LAUGHTER.]
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MAN: ARE YOU KIDDING? ZAY: YOU COULD NO HAVE PLANNED THIS, I PROMISE YOU.
MAN: THERE IS NO WAY TO RIG ZAY: ASK THE PEOPLE, ASK THE PEOPLE.
IS THERE A WAY TO RIG THE CHICKEN? CROWD: NO! ALRIGHT, WHAT DO YOU PLAN TO DO WITH ALL THAT MONEY? ZAY: I'D LIKE TO JUS OPEN A TAB FOR $114! [CHEERING.]
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