Globe Trekker (1994) s14e09 Episode Script
Nigeria
1 ANNOUNCER: FUNDING FOR THIS PROVIDED BY SUBARU.
WOMAN: AT SUBARU, WE'RE BUILDING VEHICLES LIKE THE RUGGED OUTBACK, WITH SYMMETRICAL ALL-WHEEL DRIVE STANDARD AND PLENTY OF CARGO SPACE.
FOR THOSE WHO PACK EVEN MORE ADVENTURE INTO LIFE.
SUBARU, A PROUD SPONSOR OF "GLOBE TREKKER.
" ADELA: I'M IN AFRICA'S MOST POPULATED COUNTRY, HOME TO 150 MILLION PEOPLE.
OVERCROWDED AND CHAOTIC, IT'S DEFINITELY NOT ON THE USUAL TOURIST TRAIL BUT BE BOLD AND COME HERE, AND YOU'LL BE REWARDED BY ONE OF THE MOST DIVERSE AND EXCITING COUNTRIES ANYWHERE.
YEE-HAW! WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF NIGERIA! LOCATED AT THE HEART OF WEST AFRICA, THE LARGE COUNTRY OF NIGERIA IS ONE OF AFRICA'S LEADING NATIONS.
STARTING IN LAGOS, NIGERIA'S BIGGEST CITY, I TRAVELED TO LAKOJA ON THE RIVER NIGER.
THEN, VIA THE BIAFRAN WAR SITE OF UMUAHIA, AHEAD TO CALABAR, AND ON TO SEE A RARE PRIMATE AT AFI MOUNTAIN.
MOVING ON TO THE CAPITAL, ABUJA, I MEET THE FAMOUS EMIR OF KANO BEFORE ENDING MY TRIP AT THE DESER FESTIVAL OF MACHINA.
HELLO.
LAGOS IS WHERE MOST TRAVELERS FIRST ARRIVE IN NIGERIA.
HOW LONG IS IT GOING TO TAKE? THE CITY HAS GROWN HUGELY IN RECENT DECADES AND IS NOW ONE OF THE WORLD'S BIGGEST, WITH A POPULATION OF SOME 15 MILLION PEOPLE.
TOO MANY PEOPLE, NOT ENOUGH ROAD.
HOW MUCH? MAN: 200.
ADELA: NO, NO, NO, NO, NO.
50, 50.
MOSQUITO NETS, TOYS, CHEWING GUM IT'S LIKE A SUPERMARKET.
THE JOURNEY FROM THE AIRPOR TO THE CENTER OF LAGOS HAS BEEN A LONG, HOT STRUGGLE AND SEEMS TO HAVE TAKEN FOREVER.
BYE-BYE.
LUCKILY, AMIDST ALL THE CHAOS, I'M STAYING AT A REAL OASIS OF CALM, THE BOGOBIRI GUESTHOUSE.
GOING THROUGH ALL THAT TRAFFIC IT WAS A NIGHTMARE.
BUT THIS PLACE LOOKS GREAT.
IT'S NOT CHEAP, THOUGH, BUT I RECKON IT'S GOING TO BE WORTH IT.
OH, WOW.
LOOK AT THIS HUGE BED.
MY TRIP AROUND THE REST OF THE COUNTRY IS GOING TO BE TOUGH ENOUGH, SO I'D BETTER ENJOY SOME LUXURY WHILE I CAN.
I THINK IT'S TIME FOR A BATH.
HEH! SO BYE-BYE.
NEXT MORNING, AFTER A LUXURIOUS NIGHT'S SLEEP, I HEAD BACK INTO THE WHIRLWIND OF TRAFFIC.
I'M OFF TO CHECK OUT THE CENTRAL MARKET WITH LOCAL RESIDENT BISOLA EDUN.
NIGERIA'S DUBIOUS INTERNATIONAL REPUTATION FOR CORRUPTION, SCAMS, INSECURITY, AND SO ON PUTS OFF MANY TRAVELERS FROM COMING HERE, BUT ESPECIALLY IF YOU'VE GO SOME LOCAL CONTACTS TO LOOK AFTER YOU AND HELP SHOW YOU AROUND, IT CAN BE A FASCINATING COUNTRY TO VISIT.
OK, THIS IS IT, RIGHT? BISOLA: YEAH.
ADELA: OH, WHAT IS THIS? BISOLA: OH, THIS IS A SMOKED FISH.
WELL, IT'S USED IN COOKING, ACTUALLY.
ADELA: OH, FOR COOKING? BISOLA: YEAH, YEAH.
ADELA: IT DOESN' LOOK VERY INVITING.
BISOLA: IT'S OK.
HA-HA-HA! ADELA: OH, LOOK AT THAT! PIGS FEET.
BISOLA: IT'S ACTUALLY COW LEG.
ADELA: OH, LOOK AT THAT.
IT'S A HUGE SNAIL.
BISOLA: HUGE SNAILS.
ADELA: WOW.
BISOLA: WE CALL THEM ESCARGOT.
ADELA: IS IT FROM THE SEA OR FROM THE EARTH? BISOLA: FROM THE EARTH.
ADELA: FROM THE EARTH.
BISOLA: YES.
ADELA: WELL, IN SPAIN WE ALSO HAVE SNAILS, BUT THEY ARE THIS SIZE.
BISOLA: THEY'RE SMALL.
NO, OVER HERE IT'S THE BIGGER THE BETTER.
ADLEA: IT LOOKS DISGUSTING.
[SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE.]
.
[LAUGHING.]
.
THE BIZARRE FOOD ON OFFER HERE ISN'T QUITE MY THING, BUT I AM KEEN TO CHECK OU SOME OF NIGERIA'S EXCELLEN LOCAL FABRICS, WHICH ARE ON SALE HERE.
BISOLA IS A FASHION DESIGNER, SO SHE SHOULD BE ABLE TO GIVE ME SOME GOOD ADVICE ABOUT WHAT TO BUY.
IS FASHION VERY IMPORTANT IN NIGERIA? BISOLA: OH, YEAH.
I MEAN, YOU'D FIND THAT THE AVERAGE NIGERIAN WOMAN THEY TEND TO BE VERY AWARE OF WHAT THEY ARE WEARING.
ADLEA: THERE ARE SO MANY FABRICS.
BISOLA: YEAH, BEAUTIFUL STUFF, YEAH.
ADELA: BUT IT MUS BE DIFFICULT TO CHOOSE FROM ALL THIS.
BISOLA: WELL, I FIND IT QUITE INTIMIDATING.
THE THING IS JUST TO, LIKE, FOCUS AND JUST ZONE IN ON THAT ONE THING THA YOU WOULD LIKE.
ADELA: LOOK AT THIS, BEAUTIFUL.
BISOLA: YEAH.
[SPEAKING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE.]
ADELA: THESE ONES ARE BEAUTIFUL.
BISOLA: THIS IS VERY NICE.
OH, THAT'S VERY PRETTY.
ADELA: THIS ONE'S FANTASTIC.
BISOLA: THAT'S VERY PRETTY.
ADELA: THIS ONE'S VERY FUNKY.
YOU HAVE MANY COLORS.
BISOLA: WOULD YOU LIKE TO PICK ONE? ADELA: WHICH ONE WOULD YOU RECOMMEND? I DON'T KNOW.
BISOLA: I LIKE THAT ONE.
ADELA: YEAH? BISOLA: DID YOU LIKE IT? ADELA: WOULD IT SUIT ME? BISOLA: OH, YEAH.
ADELA: YEAH, AND HOW MUCH IS THIS? WOMAN: IT'S 1,600 FOR THIS, YES.
ADELA: OK.
HISTORICALLY, MANY OF THESE FABRICS WERE INSPIRED BY INDONESIAN ONES IMPORTED TO AFRICA, BUT NIGERIANS HAVE NOW ADAPTED THE DESIGNS TO THEIR OWN TASTES.
BISOLA: THAT'S A LITTLE OVER $10 FOR THE 6 YARDS.
SHE CAN'T CUT IT.
ADELA: THAT'D BE ENOUGH FOR ONE DRESS, RIGHT? BISOLA: OH YEAH, MORE THAN ENOUGH.
YOU CAN GET, SHOOT, 3 DRESSES FROM THIS.
ADLEA: OH, GREAT.
AND, UH IT LOOKS BEAUTIFUL ON YOU.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
THERE YOU ARE.
KEEP THE CHANGE.
YOU'VE BEEN VERY NICE TO US.
NIGERIAN WOMEN ARE RENOWNED AS AMONGST THE MOST STYLISH DRESSERS IN AFRICA, AND I'M FEELING SERIOUSLY UNDERDRESSED.
AT BISOLA'S RECOMMENDATION, I'M TAKING MY FABRIC TO A TAILOR TO HAVE I MADE UP INTO A LOCAL OUTFI ON THE SPOT.
TAILOR: HI, GOOD AFTERNOON.
ADELA: GOOD AFTERNOON.
TAILOR: YEAH.
ADELA: I WOULD LIKE TO HAVE A DRESS MADE OF THIS STUFF.
TAILOR: OK.
ADEL IT'S POSSIBLE? TAILOR: YEAH, IT'S POSSIBLE.
ADELA: YEAH? TODAY MANY POPULAR DRESSES ARE BASED ON TRADITIONAL AFRICAN DESIGNS WITH A MODERN TWIST.
FOR A ONE-OFF HANDMADE DRESS, THE PRICE IS EXTREMELY GOOD VALUE AT JUST OVER $30.
I'VE GOT AN HOUR TO KILL WHILE THE DRESS IS MADE UP, SO LIKE ANY SENSIBLE GIRL WOULD, I'M GOING TO USE THE TIME TO DO SOME MORE SHOPPING FOR SOUVENIRS.
HOW MUCH IS THIS? MAN: 6,000.
ADELA: VERY EXPENSIVE.
MAN: YOU KNOW, IT'S BECAUSE THIS IS BRONZE.
ADELA: THIS IS BRONZE? MAN: THIS IS BRONZE.
ADELA: I LIKE IT, BUT 6,000 IS TOO MUCH.
MAN: NOT TOO MUCH.
ADELA: I GIVE YOU 2,500.
MAN: NO, NO, NO, NO.
GIVE YOU FOR 5.
ADELA: NO, NO, NO, NO.
5 IS TOO MUCH, 5 IS TOO MUCH.
3,000.
MAN: NO, NO, NO.
ADELA: 3,000 IS FAIR.
MAN; OK, YOU KNOW WHAT? JUST TAKE IT 4,500.
ADELA: 4,500, NO.
4, LAST PRICE.
MAN: 4, LAST PRICE? ADELA: LAST PRICE.
MAN: OK 4, FINE.
[INAUDIBLE.]
.
ADELA: THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
OK, THERE YOU ARE.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
MAN: THANK YOU.
ADELA: BYE.
MAN:THANK YOU, THANK YOU.
ADELA: HELLO.
TAILOR: HI.
ADELA: HOW ARE YOU? TAILOR: I'M FINE.
ADELA: OK, SO THIS IS IT, RIGHT? OH, IT LOOKS BEAUTIFUL.
TAILOR: THANK YOU.
ADELA: THERE YOU ARE.
THANK YOU SO MUCH.
SEE YOU NEXT TIME.
BYE-BYE.
TAILOR: YEAH.
ADELA: I DON'T COME ACROSS MANY OTHER TRAVELERS WHILS I'M WANDERING AROUND, BU THOSE WHO DO MAKE IT HERE TO NIGERIA HAVE LOTS OF GOOD THINGS TO SAY ABOUT IT.
WOMAN: I ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT.
IT'S A SERIOUSLY INTERESTING PLACE, NOT LIKE ANYWHERE I'VE BEEN BEFORE, BUT, YEAH, NO, I LOVE IT, AND THE HEAT'S, ONCE YOU'RE USED TO THE HEAT, IT'S ALL RIGHT.
WOMAN 2: THE PEOPLE ARE FANTASTIC.
THEY'RE VERY, VERY FRIENDLY, AND WE'RE THOROUGHLY ENJOYING OUR TIME HERE.
THIS MARKET IS AMAZING.
BEAUTIFUL, BEAUTIFUL STUFF TO BUY.
GIRL: I HAVEN'T ACTUALLY FELT LIKE MY SAFETY'S BEEN COMPROMISED AT ALL, AND I DON'T REALLY MAYBE YOU GET A BIT NERVOUS, AND, YOU KNOW, YOU DON'T WAN TO LEAVE STUFF LYING AROUND OR WHATEVER, BUT I LIVE IN SOUTH AFRICA, SO I MEAN, YOU KIND IT'S MUCH OF A MATCH, REALLY, IN TERMS OF SAFETY.
ADELA: ALTHOUGH MOS NIGERIANS ARE VERY FRIENDLY, THERE IS PLENTY OF CRIME IN NIGERIA.
TAKE ADVICE FROM LOCALS, AND ONLY GO TO PLACES THAT THEY SAY ARE SAFE, ESPECIALLY AT NIGHT.
LUCKILY, I DON'T NEED TO WORRY ABOUT SUCH THINGS TONIGHT, AS I'M HEADING TO THE POSHEST PART OF TOWN.
TA-DA! HOW DO I LOOK? IT'S BEAUTIFUL, HUH? I LOVE IT.
I HOPE I'M DRESSED APPROPRIATELY, BECAUSE I'VE BEEN INVITED TO THE LAUNCH PARTY OF A REALITY TV FASHION SHOW, AND I'VE HEARD THERE ARE A LOT OF FANCY PEOPLE INSIDE.
SO LET'S MINGLE.
ALTHOUGH THERE IS A LO OF POVERTY IN NIGERIA, THERE'S ALSO A LOT OF MONEY HERE, TOO, AND THE GLITTERATI DEFINITELY LIKE TO ENJOY THE GOOD LIFE.
IT'S REALLY NOT THE DONE THING IN LAGOS SOCIETY TO GO TO JUST ONE PARTY A NIGHT, SO ONCE I'VE HAD MY FILL OF FREE CHAMPAGNE, I DITCH MY POSH DRESS AND HOOK UP WITH SOME GUYS FROM THE BOGOBIRI GUESTHOUSE AND HEAD TO A MUCH MORE DOWN-TO-EARTH VENUE.
WHAT A COOL BUS.
DRIVER: THANK YOU.
ADELA: IS IT GOING TO TAKE LONG? DRIVER: IT'S ABOU A 30-MINUTE DRIVE.
IS IT YOUR FIRS TIME IN LAGOS? ADELA: IT IS THE FIRST TIME IN LAGOS.
I HAVE THE FEELING IT'S GOING TO BE A GREAT NIGHT, ISN'T IT? DRIVER: IT'S GOING TO BE A GREAT NIGHT.
ADELA: WE'RE HEADING TO SEE NIGERIA'S LEADING AFRO-BEAT MUSICIAN, FEMI KUTI, AT THE FAMOUS AFRICA SHRINE.
TONIGHT IS REHEARSAL NIGHT, AND ANYBODY'S WELCOME TO TURN UP FOR FREE.
FEMI KUTI: AFRICA, AFRICA.
AFRICA, AFRICA IS THE WAY I SAY.
AFRICA, AFRICA.
HEY, HEY, HEY, HEY.
ADELA: FEMI KUTI IS HUGELY POPULAR IN NIGERIA AND INTERNATIONALLY RENOWNED, TOO.
HELLO, HOW ARE YOU DOING? FEMI: THE KING OF AFRO-BEAT.
ADELA: YEAH, I KNOW.
NICE TO MEET YOU.
IT'S AN HONOR.
FEMI'S FATHER, FELA KUTI, WAS AN EVEN BIGGER MUSICAL STAR, WHO IN THE 1970s AND 1980s USED HIS MUSIC POLITICALLY TO FIGHT AGAINST GOVERNMEN CORRUPTION AND MISMANAGEMENT.
YEAH, YOU'RE KEEPING THE FAMILY'S TRADITION, HUH? FEMI: YEAH, YEAH, YEAH.
WE'RE STILL IN THE BATTLE MY FATHER ENLIGHTENED US ABOUT.
WE STILL DON' HAVE ELECTRICITY.
WE STILL HAVE BAD ROADS.
THE CORRUPTION IS STILL BAD, AND WE'RE A RICH COUNTRY.
ADELA: AND WITH YOUR SONGS AND YOUR MUSIC, YOU'RE TRYING TO FIGHT AGAINST THAT, RIGHT? FEMI: PEOPLE TAKE THE HANDOUTS AT THE SHRINE, AND THE MUSIC TAKES THE FRUSTRATION AWAY, SO WE DANCE OUR PROBLEMS AWAY.
ADELA: THE DIVIDE BETWEEN RICH AND POOR REMAINS HORRIBLY EXTREME IN NIGERIA, BUT FEMI KUTI'S REHEARSAL NIGHTS DO A LEAST PROVIDE A GREAT FREE NIGHT OUT FOR THOSE WHO CAN' AFFORD TO PAY.
[FEMI SCATTING.]
.
[CHEERS AND APPLAUSE.]
.
WHAT A GREAT NIGHT THAT WAS.
I COULD EASILY SPEND A WHOLE DAY JUST CHILLING OUT, BUT MY TRIP AROUND NIGERIA HAS JUST BEGUN, AND IT'S TIME TO MOVE ON.
I'VE SPENT MORE THAN ENOUGH TIME SITTING IN TRAFFIC OVER THE PAST COUPLE OF DAYS, SO TO HEAD UP COUNTRY, I'VE DECIDED TO TRAVEL IN STYLE AND CATCH THE PLANE.
FROM LAGOS, I FLY NORTHEAST, TRAVELING OVER 250 MILES TO WHERE NIGERIA'S TWO BIGGEST RIVERS, THE NIGER AND BENUE, MEET AT THE TOWN OF LAKOJA.
[INAUDIBLE GROUP CHATTER.]
AH, THIS BREEZE.
WHAT IS THIS? [SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE.]
.
CASSAVA.
AH, I SEE.
WOMAN: YOU WANT TO USE IT? ADELA: OH, NO, THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
SORRY, OH MY, THIS IS LIKE A DRY FISH LABYRINTH.
WHAT IS THIS? [SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE.]
.
WHAT IS IT? [SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE.]
.
BUSH MEAT? I CAN'T EVEN RECOGNIZE WHA KIND OF ANIMAL IT COULD BE.
IS IT NICE? WOMAN: YEAH.
ADELA: DELICACY? WOMAN: YEAH.
ADELA: YEAH? HOW DO YOU COOK IT? MAN: YOU CAN COOK IT AS YOU LIKE.
ADELA: OH, YOU JUST EAT IT STRAIGHT? MAN: YES, TO EAT.
EAT YOU BETTER IN YOUR LIFE.
ADELA: IT MAKES YOU FEEL BETTER IN YOUR WHOLE LIFE? MAN: THAT IS THAT, THAT IS THAT.
ADELA: BYE, THANK YOU.
IT TURNED OUT THAT IT'S ACTUALLY BARBECUED CANE RAT, SO I'M MORE THAN HAPPY TO HAVE GIVEN IT A MISS.
MANGOES HUH, HOW MUCH IS IT? WOMAN: THIS, 20 NAIRA.
THIS ONE, 10 NAIRA.
ADELA: 10 NAIRA.
THERE YOU ARE, THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
WOMAN: THANK YOU, GOOD-BYE.
ADELA: IN PLACES LIKE THIS, IT'S ADVISED NOT TO HAVE JUS ANYTHING THAT YOU CAN FIND ON THE STREET, BUT THERE'S ALWAYS THINGS THAT YOU CAN EAT, AND MANGOES, IN A COUNTRY LIKE NIGERIA, ARE A DELICACY.
NOTHING LIKE YOU'VE EVER TASTED.
HELLO.
CAN YOU GIVE ME A RIDE TO THE CENTER OF TOWN? YEAH? OK, LET'S GO.
AT 2,600 MILES LONG, THE NIGER IS AFRICA'S THIRD LONGEST RIVER.
TODAY IT'S USED FOR TRADE, BUT IN THE PAST IT WAS ALSO A HIGHWAY FOR EXPLORATION.
IN THE 19th CENTURY, WHEN THERE WERE ONLY A FEW DIR TRAILS THROUGH THE FOREST, THE RIVER WAS BY FAR THE EASIES WAY FOR EXPLORERS TO TRAVEL THROUGH NIGERIA'S UNKNOWN INTERIOR.
WHEN A BRITISH STEAMSHIP EXPEDITION FINALLY MADE IT ALL THE WAY UP HERE IN 1841, LAKOJA BECAME THE FIRST PLACE AWAY FROM THE COAST TO BE SETTLED BY NIGERIA'S FUTURE COLONIAL RULERS.
AMONGST THE EXPLORERS' AIMS WERE TO OPEN UP THE INTERIOR FOR BRITISH TRADE, TO SAVE SOULS BY SPREADING CHRISTIANITY, AND TO ABOLISH SLAVERY, BUT WITHIN DECADES, NIGERIA WAS SWALLOWED UP INTO THE BRITISH EMPIRE.
HEY, YOU.
I AM MEETING UP WITH JOURNALIST MOHAMMED BASHIR, WHO HAS AGREED TO SHOW ME THE TOWN'S BRITISH COLONIAL LEGACY.
MOHAMMED: THIS ONE OF THE BUILDING GOVERNMENT QUARTERS, BUILT BY THE BRITISH COLONIAL MASTERS.
ADELA: WHY IS I STANDING ON STILTS? MOHAMMED: OH, THIS ENVIRONMENT USED TO BE VERY, VERY SWAMPY.
THEY HAVE TO SUSPEND THE BUILDING.
THE MATERIALS THERE WERE SHIPPED FROM ENGLAND.
ADELA: REALLY? MOHAMMED: IT'S OVER 100 YEARS, UNTOUCHED.
ADELA: THAT'S BEAUTIFUL, ISN'T IT? MOHAMMED: YES, SO LET ME TAKE YOU TO OTHER PLACES.
ADELA: FOR MOHAMMED, THE BIGGEST LEGACY OF THE BRITISH WASN'T SO MUCH WHA THEY BUILT IN NIGERIA.
IT WAS THE VERY CREATION OF THE COUNTRY THA THEY LEFT BEHIND.
MOHAMMED: BEFORE THE BRITISH LEFT THIS COUNTRY IN 1960, THEY BROUGHT GOOD THINGS.
THEY BROUGHT BAD THINGS AS WELL.
BUT THE MOST IMPORTANT THING, WE GOT OUR INDEPENDENCE, AND WE ARE PROUD OF THAT.
ADELA: OF COURSE YOU ARE.
MOHAMMED: BY THE END OF IT, THIS WHAT IS LEFT OF THEM.
ADELA: A FEW GRAVES, HUH? MOHAMMED: YEAH, GRAVES.
ADELA: IT WAS IN 1914 THAT THE BRITISH FIRST UNIFIED NIGERIA AS ONE COUNTRY.
NUMEROUS COMPETING TRIBES, SUCH AS THE YORUBA, HAUSA, AND IGBO WERE JOINED TOGETHER IN THE NEW NATION, AND THIS LED TO CONFLIC AFTER INDEPENDENCE IN 1960.
MOHAMMED SAYS THE VIEW FROM A HILL ABOVE TOWN HELPS EXPLAIN THE SITUATION.
MOHAMMED: HERE WE ARE.
ADELA: LOOK AT THAT.
WOW, WHAT A VIEW.
MOHAMMED: YEAH, THIS IS WHERE WE GET THE REAL VIEW OF THE CONFLUENCE.
THIS SIDE OF THE RIVER WHERE WE ARE STANDING ARE THE YORUBAS.
AT THE FAR SIDE OF THE RIVER ARE THE IGBOS, WHILE BETWEEN THE TWO RIVERS, YOU HAVE HAUSAS, BUT THE INTERVENTION OF THE BRITISH COLONY BROUGHT US TOGETHER AND MADE ONE NIGERIA, ONE NATION.
ADELA: ONE NATION.
MOHAMMED: THEN NEXT UP, NIGERIA, BUT AFTER INDEPENDENCE, CRISIS HERE AND THERE, RELIGION CRISIS, ETHNIC CRISIS, YOU KNOW, NAME THEM.
ADELA: AND ULTIMATELY, THAT LED INTO THE CIVIL WAR.
MOHAMMED: EXACTLY.
YOU ARE VERY, VERY CORRECT.
THAT LED INTO CIVIL WAR.
ADELA: OF NIGERIA'S 250 ETHNIC GROUPS, THE YORUBA, HAUSA, AND IGBO ARE THE LARGEST.
IT WAS IN 1967 WHEN IGBO-DOMINATED BIAFRA DECLARED INDEPENDENCE AND CIVIL WAR ERUPTED.
I'M NOW HEADING ONWARDS FROM LAKOJA TO THE AREA WHERE THE BIAFRAN WAR WAS FOUGHT.
MOHAMMED TAKES ME TO CATCH A FERRY ACROSS THE NIGER.
BYE-BYE, MOHAMMED.
THANK YOU SO MUCH.
MOHAMMED: TAKE CARE.
ADELA: THANK YOU.
MOHAMMED: AND HAVE FUN.
ADELA: YEAH, I WILL, FOR SURE.
AFTER CROSSING THE NIGER FROM LAKOJA, I TRAVEL NEARLY 200 MILES SOUTHEAST TO REACH THE TOWN OF UMUAHIA.
ONCE THE SITE OF THE MILITARY HEADQUARTERS OF THE FORMER BREAKAWAY STATE OF BIAFRA, TODAY IT'S THE LOCATION OF THE NATIONAL WAR MUSEUM.
OK, THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
AT THE WAR MUSEUM CAFE, BIZARRELY LOCATED ON THE DECK OF AN OLD WARSHIP, I'M MEETING BIAFRAN WAR VETERAN SASSAN WALKE.
OY, THAT WAS STEEP.
OH, IT'S SO NICE TO MEET YOU.
SASAN: GOD BLESS YOU.
ADELA: GOD BLESS YOU, TOO.
SASAN: GOOD DAY, GOOD DAY.
ADELA: WHAT A COOL PLACE TO MEET.
SASAN: OH, YEAH ADELA: AND WHA DO YOU HAVE HERE? SASAN: OH, THAT WAS ME 42 YEARS AGO IN BIAFRAN ARMY.
ADELA: REALLY, THIS IS YOU? SASAN: YEAH, YEAH, THAT'S ME THERE IN THE MIDDLE ADELA: YOU WERE ONLY A CHILD.
SASAN: I WAS 17 THEN.
THAT WAS A LONG TIME, LIFETIME AGO, ISN'T IT? WHY DON'T I TAKE YOU TO GO SEE THE WEAPONRY? ADELA: OH YEAH, THAT WOULD BE FANTASTIC.
YEAH, LET'S GO, THEN.
SASAN: THAT WOULD BE GREAT.
THIS WAY, THANKS.
ADELA: THE BRUTAL BIAFRAN WAR LASTED NEARLY 3 YEARS AND IS THOUGHT TO HAVE RESULTED IN THE DEATHS OF WELL OVER A MILLION PEOPLE.
MOST WERE CIVILIANS WHO DIED FROM A TERRIBLE FAMINE THA DECIMATED THE BIAFRANS AND SHOCKED THE WORLD.
THE NIGERIAN FEDERAL ARMY WAS SUPPLIED WITH STATE-OF-THE-AR WEAPONRY BY BRITAIN AND OTHER MAJOR NATIONS.
BY CONTRAST, THE BIAFRAN ARMY, WHICH SASSAN FOUGHT IN, HAD ALMOST NO INTERNATIONAL ALLIES, AND SO THEY MOSTLY HAD TO FIGHT WITH SECOND-RATE AND IMPROVISED HOMEMADE WEAPONS.
SASAN: WE'RE LOOKING A WHAT ARE CALLED RED DEVIL, AND OBVIOUSLY, YOU CAN SEE THAT ANYONE WHO WAS IN HERE SHOULD HAVE BEEN BLOWN TO PIECES.
THIS RED DEVIL WAS THROWN MOST PROBABLY BY 1 OR 6.
THE MACHINE GUN WAS MOUNTED IN THERE, AND THIS HAD A NARROW FIELD OF FIRE.
VERY NARROW, I'M NOT TOO SURE, 20 DEGREES FOR A FIELD OF FIRE, SO IF YOU HAD AN ENEMY 90 DEGREES TO YOUR RIGHT, YOU HAD TO TURN THE TRACK, AND YOU CAN IMAGINE HOW LONG THAT WOULD TAKE, AND BEFORE YOU TURN AROUND, WHAT IF SHE BLOWS YOU TO PIECES? ADELA: SO THESE WERE NO GOOD MACHINES AT ALL, RIGHT? SASAN: WE WERE JUS LIKE, WHAT DO YOU CALL IT? WE JUST OUT THERE FOR THE SLAUGHTER.
IT WAS SUICIDE, BUT THEN, WE HAD TO DO THIS THING, BECAUSE WE HAD NO CHOICE.
IT WAS EITHER WE DID THAT OR WE GOT BUTCHERED, AND I THINK I'M BETTER OFF DYING FIGHTING TO PROTECT MY CHILDREN THAN RUN AWAY.
YOU CAN'T TOUCH MY MOTHER WHILE I LIVE.
YOU CANNOT, EVEN IF YOU WERE 12 FEET TALL.
ADELA: COMPLETELY OUTGUNNED, THE BIAFRAN BREAKAWAY STATE HAD PICKED AN UNWINNABLE BATTLE.
FROM A TERRITORY THEY HAD CLAIMED IN 1967, THE BIAFRAN ARMY WAS GRADUALLY PUSHED BACK BY THE NIGERIAN FEDERAL FORCES UNTIL BIAFRA WAS FINALLY FORCED TO SURRENDER IN 1970.
WOMAN: HALLELUJAH! [SINGING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE.]
.
ADELA: THE DIVISIONS OF THE BIAFRAN WAR HAVE TAKEN TIME TO HEAL AND SASSAN IS JUS ONE OF MANY VETERANS WHO HAVE SOUGHT SOLACE FROM MAN'S INHUMANITY TO MAN THROUGH FAITH IN GOD.
NIGERIA IS ONE OF THE MOS RELIGIOUS COUNTRIES ON EARTH.
MOST NORTHERN NIGERIANS ARE DEVOUTLY MUSLIM, WHILST THE MAJORITY OF PEOPLE HERE IN THE SOUTH ARE FERVENTLY CHRISTIAN.
MAN: GOD IS SO WONDERFUL TO MY LIFE AND MY FAMILIES HOUSEHOLD.
I AM SO GRATEFUL TO GOD.
WOMAN: I FEEL HAPPY WHENEVER I'M DANCING AND SINGING PRAISES TO GOD IN MY DIALECT.
I FEEL HAPPY, I FEEL GREAT.
MAN: GOD IS VERY VALUABLE IN MY LIFE.
HE IS VERY IMPORTAN ALL THROUGH MY LIFE.
GOD IS GREAT.
[CHEERS AND APPLAUSE.]
.
MAN: THANK YOU.
ADELA: HIS IS SO MUCH MORE FUN THAN ANY OTHER CHURCH SERVICE I'VE EVER BEEN TO.
NO WONDER THEY'RE SO DEVOTED.
BYE.
THAT WAS SO GOOD.
I LOVED IT.
FROM UMUAHIA, I'M HEADING ANOTHER 70 MILES OR SO TO THE TOWN OF CALABAR, CLOSE TO NIGERIA'S SOUTHEASTERN BORDER.
LIKE ALL OF SOUTHERN NIGERIA, CALABAR IS DEEPLY CHRISTIAN, BUT ALONGSIDE THEIR FAITH, THE PEOPLE HOLD ON TO TRADITIONAL BELIEFS, TOO.
COUPLES USUALLY HAVE TWO WEDDINGS, FOR EXAMPLE, BOTH CHRISTIAN AND TRIBAL.
I AM HEADING INTO THE COUNTRYSIDE OUTSIDE CALABAR TO ATTEND A TRADITIONAL EFIK TRIBAL WEDDING.
I AM HEADING THERE WITH EFIK CHIEF UNKOYO ATOUOKPO, WHO'S OFFICIATING AT THE CEREMONY.
A COLLAPSED BRIDGE MEANS THAT WE CAN'T CROSS TO THE OTHER SIDE OF THE RIVER BY CAR.
IT'S GOING TO BE SO MUCH FUN IN THE WEDDING.
NKOYO: YEAH! THERE ARE GOING TO BE MORE THAN 1,500 PERSONS THERE.
ADELA: WHAT? THAT'S HUGE FOR ME.
NKOYO: YEAH, YOU WILL SEE THEM, AND ALL THE WOMEN ARE WEARING THEIR TRADITIONAL WEAR, [INAUDIBLE.]
ADELA: AND WHAT ARE ALL THOSE BOYS DOING WITH THE SAND? NKOYO: THEY WANT TO SELL I AND MAKE MONEY TO GO AND MOLD BLOCKS AND MAKE HOUSES.
ADELA: I SEE.
MUST BE A VERY HARD JOB.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
LET'S GO.
WHOA! THAT WAS FUN.
WHOA, HEY.
WHAT A NICE RIDE! THAT WAS FANTASTIC.
NKOYO: YEAH! CAN I NOW MAKE YOUR HAIR FOR YOU? ADELA: OH, YES, PLEASE.
NKOYO: WE CALL I [INAUDIBLE.]
.
ADELA: AND THE BIGGER, THE BETTER, RIGHT? NOW THERE WE GO.
OH, MY EAR NKOYO: SORRY.
ADELA: OW.
NKOYO: YOU ARE SHOUTING TOO MUCH.
ADELA: OK, OK, HERE WE GO.
NKOYO: WAIT, HOLD ON.
ADELA: I SURVIVED.
I'M FINE.
OK, NOW I'M READY TO BE PRESENTED TO THE AFRICAN SOCIETY.
NKOYO: YEAH, OK.
ADELA: LET'S GO, THEN.
NKOYO: ALL RIGHT.
ADELA: WE HEAD INSIDE TO SEE THE BRIDE GETTING READY FOR HER BIG DAY.
LOOK AT THE BRIDE.
BEAUTIFUL.
NKOYO: HAIR IS UP TO HER WAIST.
WE CALL IT ITOMA.
ADELA: ITOMA? NKOYO: YEAH, THAT IS HAIR SPECIFICALLY FOR BRIDES.
THAT'S WHAT MAKES HER A EFIK GIRL.
[CHANTING.]
.
ADELA: WHILST THE BRIDE MAKES HER FINISHING TOUCHES, THE BRIDEGROOM IS MAKING HIS WAY TOWARDS THE CEREMONY WITH HIS USHERS DRESSED IN TRADITIONAL EFIK TRIBAL COSTUMES.
NKOYO: A MARRIED WOMAN HAS TO GO ALONG WITH WHAT? DIGNITY.
THAT'S WHY WE GIVE THEM STUFF, SO STICK YOUR STUFF FROM TODAY.
ADELA: WOW, YOU LOOK UNBELIEVABLE.
NKOYO: YEAH, OH MY GOD.
ADELA: THANK YOU AND GOOD LUCK.
GOOD LUCK.
[SINGING INAUDIBLY.]
.
ADELA: WITH BRIDE AND BRIDEGROOM TOGETHER AT LAS AND THEIR TRADITIONAL WEDDING GIFTS PRESENTED, CHIEF UNKOYO DECLARES THE HAPPY COUPLE HUSBAND AND WIFE.
[SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE.]
.
SO THEY'RE MARRIED NOW, AND FOR THE FIRST TIME, THEY CAN DANCE TOGETHER.
[CHEERS AND APPLAUSE.]
.
ACCORDING TO CUSTOM, THE HAPPY COUPLE ARE SHOWERED WITH GOOD FORTUNE BY FRIENDS AND FAMILY.
BUT NOT ALL EFIK MARRIAGE TRADITIONS SURVIVE TODAY.
THE EFIK HAVE TRADITIONALLY THOUGHT BIG IS BEAUTIFUL, AND EFIK GIRLS USED TO SPEND MONTHS BEING FATTENED UP BEFORE THEY GOT MARRIED.
THE TRADITION HAS DIED OUT IN RECENT DECADES, BUT WHEN CHIEF UNKOYO WAS A YOUNG WOMAN, SHE WAS FATTENED UP.
AFTER THE WEDDING IS OVER, SHE TAKES ME TO THE MARKE BACK IN CALABAR, WHERE SHE WAS PRESENTED IN FRONT OF EVERYONE AFTER MONTHS OF SECLUSION IN A FATTENING ROOM.
NKOYO: WHEN I WAS A YOUNG GIRL AND I WAS IN THE FATTENING ROOM, AND AFTER MY FATTENING ROOM, MY PARENTS TOOK ME TO THE MARKET, I QUITE REMEMBER THAT DAY.
A YOUNG MAN WAS PICKED TO CARRY ME ON HIS SHOULDER.
ADELA: REALLY? NKOYO: I'M TELLING YOU IT WAS SPLENDID, AND I HAD PEOPLE FOLLOWING ME WITH DRUMS, AND THEY GAVE ME A STAFF, AND I HAD THAT OUR TRADITIONAL HAIR WITH BRASS COMBS, AND I WAS DANCING.
ADELA: REALLY? YOU WERE DOING THE NKOYO: YEAH, IN THE MARKET, AND PEOPLE WERE GIVING ME SO MANY GIFTS.
ADELA: REALLY? NKOYO: YEAH.
ADELA: AND WHAT WERE THEY GIVING YOU TO MAKE YOU FAT? NKOYO: OH, MY GOD.
ADELA: WHAT KIND OF FOOD? NKOYO: THERE WERE SO MANY TYPES OF FOOD, LIKE THE PLANTAIN, THE FUFU, AND VEGETABLE SOUP.
THEY GAVE ME WHA WE CALL EKPANG.
THAT IS GRATED COCOYAM WITH A GRATED WATER YAM, AND THEN IT'S MADE TIGHT, AND THEN I TAKE IT ADELA: THERE'S SO MANY THINGS, I DON'T EVEN KNOW WHAT THEY ARE.
NKOYO: YEAH, THESE ARE YAMS, THE PERIWINKLE, AND THE CRAYFISH, AND WE COMBINE, AND THEY COOK, AND YOU EAT, AND AS YOU EAT IT, HONESTLY SPEAKING, YOU WILL GET FATTER.
ADELA: FATTER.
AND WHAT IS THIS? NKOYO: THIS IS GARI, WHICH IS MADE FROM CASSAVA.
ADELA: AND THIS IS VERY FATTENING? NKOYO: THIS IS CASSAVA.
YES, IT IS.
IT'S CARBOHYDRATE.
ADELA: HOW MANY TIMES WERE YOU EATING? NKOYO: OH, MY GOD.
I CANNOT COUNT, BECAUSE IN THE FATTENING ROOM, YOUR MOTHER WANTS TO SEE YOU GETTING FATTER.
SO EVERY ONE OR TWO OR 3 HOURS, SHE MUST FEED YOU.
ADELA: WHAT? BUT YOU MUS HAVE FELT SO FULL.
NKOYO: YEAH, AND I QUITE REMEMBER ONCE I GOT FED UP, AND THEN I VOMITED, AND MY MOTHER GOT ANNOYED AND THEN BEAT ME UP AND THEN FORCED ME TO EAT AGAIN.
ADELA: WHAT? NKOYO: AND I ATE, BECAUSE SHE WANTED TO SEE ME GETTING FATTER.
ADELA: OH.
I HAVE HAD A LO OF FUN IN CALABAR, BUT IT'S TIME TO MOVE ON.
I AM HEADING TO THE RAINFOREST, AND IT'S GOING TO BE A REALLY LONG JOURNEY.
IS THIS TRAVELING TO IKOM? DRIVER: YEAH.
ADELA: AND IS IT FULL? DRIVER: NO, WE ARE LEFT WITH 3 PLACES.
ADELA: THERE'S 3 SEATS LEFT? DRIVER: WE HAVE 1, 2, 3 SEATS YES.
ADELA: OK, THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
DRIVER: GET ON.
ADELA: THE THING IS THAT HERE IN NIGERIA, BUSES DON'T LEAVE UNTIL THEY ARE FULL, SO YOU EITHER WAIT, OR YOU CAN PAY A BIT OF EXTRA MONEY, AND IT'S REALLY CHEAP, SO I THINK I'M GOING TO PAY FOR THAT.
OOH.
HELLO.
LOCAL: HI.
ADELA: MY NAME IS ADELA.
IT'S HOT IN THE BUS, HUH? LOCAL: IT'S REALLY HOT.
ADELA: NO AIR CON, EH? BOY: HEY, SISTER ADELA.
ADELA: YES.
BOY: WHAT'S THE MEANING OF YOUR NAME? ADELA: ADELA MEANS NOTHING, JUST A NAME.
BOY: JUST A NAME.
ADELA: JUST A NAME.
BOY: IT HAS NO MEANING? ADELA: NO MEANING.
BOY: THAT'S FINE.
ADELA: YEAH.
BOY: HERE WE GO.
OH! HOW ARE YOU DOING, BABY? HEY, YOU STOLE MY HAT.
HEY, BUT ONLY FOR THE TRIP.
I NEED IT LATER.
WHAT'S HER NAME AGAIN? MOTHER: SHE IS PRAISE GOD.
ADELA: PRAISE GOD.
IT'S A NICE BREEZE, HUH, PRAISE GOD? HELLO, HOW MUCH IS IT? WOMAN: 50.
ADELA: 50? WOMAN: 50.
ADELA: 50 NAIRA.
WOMAN: YES.
ADELA: OK, THANK YOU.
WOMAN: THANK YOU.
ADELA: BYE, BYE-BYE.
ANY BANANAS IN THE BACK? THE DRIVER WANTS A BANANA AS WELL? ANY BANANA? DRIVER: YEAH, YEAH, YEAH.
ADELA: OK, ANY BANANA? OK, THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
ONE LEFT.
THE ROADS IN NIGERIA ARE REALLY DANGEROUS, AND THERE ARE LOTS OF ACCIDENTS, SO LOCALS LIKE EVERY TRIP TO BE BLESSED BY A PRAYER.
WOMAN: THANK YOU, FATHER.
WE ASK, OH FATHER, YOU LEAD US SAFELY TO OUR DIFFERENT DESTINATIONS.
ADELA: FROM CALABAR, IT'S A HUNDRED MILES BY BUS TO IKOM, FROM WHERE I AM BEING GUIDED ONWARDS TO THE REMOTE AFI MOUNTAIN WILDLIFE SANCTUARY.
I AM MET AT IKOM BY DR.
ADENIYI EGBETADE, WHO IS CHIEF VET AT THE AFI MOUNTAIN DRILL RANCH.
THANK YOU.
BYE.
ADE: ADELA, ADE.
ADELA: HI, ADE.
NICE TO MEET YOU.
ADE: HOW WAS YOUR JOURNEY? ADELA: ADE LOOKS AFTER HUNDREDS OF EXTREMELY RARE DRILL MONKEYS AT AFI.
HE SAYS IT'LL TAKE ABOU AN HOUR OR SO TO GET THERE.
HOW FAR IS IT? ADE: IT'S ABOUT 7 KILOMETERS.
ADELA: 7 KILOMETERS, STILL? OH.
WITH NIGHTFALL LESS THAN AN HOUR AWAY, WE FINALLY ARRIVE.
ADE: YEAH, WE'RE HERE.
ADELA: HEY.
ADE: THANKS, GUYS.
WELCOME TO DRILL RANCH.
ADELA: THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
I'M EXHAUSTED, MAN.
ADE: YEAH, COME ON IN.
ADELA: WHILE ADE HEADS OFF TO CHECK UP ON THE DRILLS, I'M GOING TO CHECK OU THE JUNGLE CABIN WHERE I'M STAYING THE NIGHT.
THIS LOOKS LIKE A PRETTY LUXURIOUS CABIN FOR THE MIDDLE OF THE FOREST.
GREAT.
THEY HAVE 6 OF THESE, AND YOU CAN RENT THEM FOR THE NIGHT, AND THEY'RE ACTUALLY VERY CHEAP, SO IT'S A COOL PLACE TO STAY.
MMM.
IT'S EARLY MORNING, AND I'VE HAD A GREAT NIGHT'S SLEEP LISTENING TO THE SOUNDS OF THE JUNGLE.
THERE ARE 6 DRILL ENCLOSURES AT AFI, AND ADE IS TAKING ME TO GROUP TWO.
THE ENCLOSURES ARE EXTREMELY LARGE, SO THE DRILLS CAN FORAGE FOOD FOR THEMSELVES IN THE FOREST, BUT THEY CAN'T FIND AS MUCH FOOD AS WHEN THEY'RE ROAMING FREE, SO THEY'RE FED, TOO, TO SUPPLEMENT THEIR DIET.
HI, HOW ARE YOU? JAMES: WELCOME, I'M JAMES.
ADELA: THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
WOW! THEY ARE MASSIVE.
LOOK AT THAT.
I WASN'T EXPECTING THEM TO BE SO BIG.
WHY DOES HE HAVE A SCAR ON HIS FACE? JAMES: IN TERMS OF MOVING UP THE HIERARCHY, DRILLS WILL HAVE TO FIGHT EACH OTHER TO MOVE UP THE LADDER, AND IT'S A BIG SOCIAL GROUP, SO THEY ALWAYS HAVE TO FIGH EACH OTHER TO REMAIN IN CONTENTION, AND I THINK [INAUDIBLE.]
GOT CAUGHT FROM ANOTHER MALE DRILL.
LIKE YOU SEE, IT'S HIDDEN PRETTY WELL.
ADELA: SO HE LOST THE BATTLE, IN THIS CASE, RIGHT? ADE: WELL, THE BATTLE IS FOREVER, SO HE JUST LOS ONE OF THE BATTLES.
ADELA: AND WHAT'S THE BATTLE FOR? ADE: THE STRUGGLE IN MOST CASES IS FOR CONTROL OF THE GROUP, CONTROL OF THE FEMALES.
ADELA: OH.
ADE: THAT'S A FEMALE, YOU CAN SEE.
THAT'S A BABY.
ADELA: OH.
ADE: SHE'S JUST ABOUT JAMES, HOW OLD IS THAT BABY? JAMES: IT'S ABOU 2, 3 WEEKS OLD, THAT ONE.
ADE: OK.
ADELA: THE DRILL RANCH STARTED WITH JUST 5 DRILLS IN 1991, BUT HAVE SPREAD THEM SO SUCCESSFULLY THAT TODAY THERE ARE AROUND 300 DRILLS HERE.
IT'S A HUGE NUMBER GIVEN THAT DRILLS ARE EXTREMELY ENDANGERED AND THERE ARE THOUGHT TO BE ONLY AROUND 3,000 LEFT ALIVE IN THE WILD.
TO TRY TO ENSURE THE SURVIVAL OF THE SPECIES IN THE WILD, THE DRILL RANCH IS PREPARING TO RELEASE NEARLY 100 DRILLS SO THAT THEY CAN ROAM FREE IN THE FOREST.
ADE: WE'VE ESTABLISHED A PRE-RELEASE HEALTH SCREENING.
IT'S VERY, VERY IMPORTANT, BECAUSE WE DON'T WANT TO RELEASE THESE ANIMALS AT THE EXPENSE OF THE WILD DRILLS.
ADELA: AND HAVE ALL THESE ANIMALS BEEN SCREENED ALREADY? ADE: YEAH, 100% SCREENED FOR ALL THE RELEASE ANIMALS, EXCEPT THIS GUY OVER HERE IS AN ESCAPE ARTIST.
HE'S [INAUDIBLE.]
HAS GONE OUT OF ALL THE ENCLOSURES.
ADELA: OH, REALLY? ADE: AND WE JUST THINK HE'S WORKING FOR HIS FREEDOM.
WE FELT HE SHOULD BE PART OF THE RELEASE GROUP, IF HE PASSES THE MEDICAL FITNESS TEST.
ADELA: SO HE CAN EXAMINE THE DRILL, ADE FIRES A TRANQUILIZER DART.
IT'S IMPORTANT TO FIND OU WHETHER THE DRILL HAS GOT ANY DISEASES HE MAY HAVE CAUGH FROM HUMAN CONTACT WHICH MIGH INFECT THE WILD DRILLS IF AND WHEN HE'S RELEASED INTO THE WILD.
YOU CAN HEAR ITS BREATHING.
HUGE TEETH, MAN.
ADE: THIS IS PERFECT.
THE GUMS ARE GOOD.
.
1 MIL OF [INAUDIBLE.]
, JUST RIGHT ON THE EYELID.
SO, THAT'S THE TB TEST DONE, SO I'M GIVING THE TETANUS SHOT NOW.
I'M GOING TO TAKE OU SOME HAIR SAMPLES FOR DNA.
SOME DRIED-OUT BLOOD FROM THE FEMORAL VESSELS.
ADELA: THIS GUY IS TO BE RELEASED IN A MONTH OR TWO, RIGHT? ADE: YEAH.
ADELA: AND WHAT'S THE CHANCES OF HIM TO SURVIVE IN THE JUNGLE? ADE: THESE DRILLS ARE SOCIAL ANIMALS, SO HIS CHANCES WILL DEPEND ON HOW WELL HE FITS INTO THE GROUP, HOW WELL HE'S ABLE TO MASTER THE ENVIRONMENT.
SO YOU HAVE TO PLACE THE ANIMAL IN A GOOD RECOVERY POSITION.
NOW I CAN GIVE THE REVERSAL.
HE'S TWITCHING HIS TAIL.
ADELA: OOH, HEY, YOU'RE WAKING UP! AFTER ALL HIS EFFORTS TRYING TO ESCAPE FROM THE ENCLOSURE, I REALLY HOPE HE MAKES IT WHEN HE GETS RELEASED INTO THE WILD.
FROM AFI MOUNTAIN, I'M NOW HEADING TOWARDS THE MUSLIM NORTH OF NIGERIA.
EN ROUTE, I PLAY A FLYING VISIT TO NIGERIA'S CAPITAL CITY, ABUJA.
ABUJA REPLACED LAGOS AS NIGERIA'S CAPITAL IN 1991, AS LAGOS WAS GETTING FAR TOO CROWDED TO BE AN EFFECTIVE SEAT OF GOVERNMENT.
IT WAS ALSO FELT IMPORTANT TO MOVE THE CAPITAL TO THE CENTER OF NIGERIA TO TRY TO HEAL ETHNIC AND RELIGIOUS DIVISIONS BETWEEN THE CHRISTIAN SOUTH AND MUSLIM NORTH.
BEFORE IT WAS CHOSEN AS THE SIGHT OF NIGERIA'S NEW CAPITAL, ABUJA WAS JUST OPEN FIELDS.
AS A TOTALLY MODERN CITY DESIGNED FOR BUSINESSMEN AND BUREAUCRATS, THERE'S FRANKLY NOT MUCH OF INTEREST TO TRAVELERS HERE, BUT ABUJA IS A CONVENIENT GATEWAY TO THE FASCINATING NORTH, AND THAT'S WHERE I'M HEADING NOW.
FROM ABUJA, I'M TRAVELING 250 MILES NORTH TO THE LARGES CITY IN NORTHERN NIGERIA, KANO.
THE LANDSCAPE IS NOW CHANGING FAST.
IN CONTRAST TO THE LUSH SOUTH, MUSLIM NORTHERN NIGERIA IS MUCH DRYER AND EVEN HOTTER.
I ARRIVE IN KANO JUST BEFORE SUNSET AND HEAD THROUGH THE TRAFFIC TO A QUIET HILL IN THE CITY CENTER TO GET A FEELING FOR THE VERY DIFFERENT ATMOSPHERE UP HERE IN THE NORTH.
IT IS AMAZING TO BE UP HERE IN THE MIDDLE OF THIS MASSIVE CITY SURROUNDED BY ALL THESE PEOPLE, LISTENING TO THE CALL TO PRAYER ECHOING AROUND.
[PRAYER CALL.]
.
NEXT MORNING, AND I'M BEING TAKEN AROUND KANO BY LOCAL JOURNALIST AHMED ABUBAKAR.
HEADING TOWARDS THE OLD CITY, WE PASS ALONG THE ANCIENT CITY WALLS, WHICH STRETCH MORE THAN 10 MILES IN CIRCUMFERENCE.
AT THE SOUTHERN END OF THE TRANS-SAHARAN TRADE ROUTE, KANO HAS BEEN AN IMPORTANT TRADING CENTER FOR OVER 1,000 YEARS.
KANO MUST HAVE BEEN HUGE THEN.
AHMAD: FOR ALL THE SUB-SAHARAN COUNTRIES AND ALL OTHER AFRICAN COUNTRIES, THE EAST, THE WEST, THE SOUTH OF AFRICA THEY ALL COME TO KANO AS A CENTER FOR TRADE.
ADELA: IN THE PAST, TRADERS TRAVELED TO KANO ACROSS THE SAHARA BY CAMEL AND DESPITE THE ADVENT OF MODERN TRANSPORT, TODAY THE CAMEL MARKE HERE IS STILL GOING STRONG.
LOOK AT THAT.
AHMAD: YEAH.
ADELA: I'VE NEVER SEEN SO MANY IN MY LIFE.
AHMAD: IT'S ONE OF THE LARGEST CAMEL MARKETS THAT WE HAVE IN THE WHOLE COUNTRY.
ADELA: REALLY? AHMAD: IT HAS BEEN HERE FOR MORE THAN 1,000 YEARS.
ADELA: AND WHAT DO THEY USE THESE ANIMALS FOR NOW? AHMAD: THEY DON'T USE THEM FOR TRANSPORTATION NOW.
THERE'S A LOT OF BICYCLES, MOTORCYCLES, AND CARS.
ADELA: I GUESS IT'S EASIER.
AHMAD: SO NOW WE USUALLY SLAUGHTER THEM FOR MEAT.
ADELA: MEAT? AHMAD: FOR MEAT.
ADELA: HOW DOES IT TASTE LIKE? AHMAD: IT'S DELICIOUS.
ADELA: REALLY? AHMAD: YEAH, I LIKE THE MEAT.
HELLO.
[SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGAGE.]
YOU HAVE TO HOLD IT.
WHOA! JUST HOLD IT! HA-HA-HA! HOLD IT, HOLD IT, HOLD IT.
ADELA: YEAH, YEAH, YEAH, I WON'T LOSE IT.
NO PROBLEM.
IT'S OK.
I'M IN CONTROL.
AHMAD: BYE-BYE.
HOLD IT.
ADELA: IT'S GOOD FUN, MAN.
NEXT STOP ON MY TOUR OF KANO'S OLD CITY IS THE EMIR'S PALACE.
THE EMIR OF KANO IS ONE OF THE MOST INFLUENTIAL AND RESPECTED TRADITIONAL RULERS IN ALL OF NIGERIA.
EVERY FRIDAY MORNING, THE EMIR COMES OUT OF HIS PALACE TO RECEIVE HOMAGE FROM REPRESENTATIVES OF THE MILLIONS OF LOCAL PEOPLE WHO REVERE HIM.
SO THE EMIR IS VERY IMPORTANT FOR THESE PEOPLE.
AHMAD: VERY IMPORTANT.
VERY, VERY IMPORTANT FOR THE PEOPLE.
ADELA: YEAH.
AHMAD; THEY REGARD HIM AS A FATHER, AS THEIR KING.
ADELA: IT'S CONSIDERED RESPECTFUL FOR ALL VISITORS TO KANO TO PAY HOMAGE TO THE EMIR, BUT A VISIT IS ALWAYS BRIEF, BECAUSE ACCORDING TO TRADITION, THE EMIR NEVER SPEAKS AT HIS WEEKLY AUDIENCES.
IT'S TIME FOR AFTERNOON PRAYERS, AND KANO'S OLD CITY IS JAMMED WITH TENS OF THOUSANDS OF WORSHIPPERS HEADING TO JOIN THE EMIR IN PRAYER AT THE CENTRAL MOSQUE.
[PRAYER CALL.]
.
AND THERE HE IS.
OH, MY.
AHMAD: THERE HE IS.
[INAUDIBLE CHANTING OVER BULLHORN.]
ADELA: IT'S TIME TO MOVE ON TO MY FINAL DESTINATION.
I'M HEADING TO A FESTIVAL OUT IN THE REMOTE DESERT, AND HAPPILY FOR ME, THE AREA'S LOCAL EMIR HAS SEN HIS DRIVER TO PICK ME UP.
IT'S KIKI? KUKU: KUKU.
ADELA: KUKU, KUKU.
KUKU: K-U-K-U.
ADELA: K-U-K-U, KUKU.
AND ARE THERE GOING TO BE MANY PEOPLE IN THE FESTIVAL? [SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE.]
NICE FESTIVAL? KUKU: YES.
ADELA: YES? KUKU: YES.
ADELA: VERY NICE? KUKU: YES, VERY NICE.
ADELA: I'M SO EXCITED.
FROM KANO, IT'S MORE THAN 4 HOURS DRIVE ACROSS THE DESER TO THE REMOTE TOWN ON NIGERIA'S FAR NORTHERN BORDER WHERE THE FESTIVAL IS TAKING PLACE, MACHINA.
FINALLY, THIS IS MACHINA.
AS WE ARRIVE, THE FESTIVAL IS ALREADY IN FULL SWING, AND THERE'S A FANTASTIC ATMOSPHERE.
AND THIS IS THE BIGGES FESTIVAL OF THE YEAR? AHMAD: THIS IS THE BIGGEST FESTIVAL OF THE YEAR.
ADELA: EVERYBODY'S SO HAPPY.
AHMAD: EVERYBODY'S SO HAPPY.
THIS IS OUR NATURE.
THIS IS OUR LAND.
ADELA: THIS IS YOUR NATURE? AHMAD: YES.
[WHISTLE BLOWS.]
.
[CHEERS AND APPLAUSE.]
.
THIS IS LANGA.
ADELA: LANGA? AHMAD: YES, LANGA.
IF YOU FALL DOWN, YOU LOST THE GAME.
YOU CAN'T TOUCH THAT WHITE CHAIR.
SO THAT IS A WINNER.
ADELA: BYE! SEE YOU TOMORROW, BYE.
I'VE GOT TO SLEEP, BYE.
[ROOSTER CROWS.]
.
IT'S THE FINAL DAY OF MACHINA'S WEEKLONG FESTIVAL.
THE CLIMAX IS A DURBAR, A MAGNIFICENT CAVALRY PROCESSION LED BY THE EMIR, AND DIGNITARIES ARE ARRIVING FROM FAR AND WIDE FOR THE BIG EVENT.
OH, I'M THE ONLY FOREIGNER IN TOWN, AND APPARENTLY, THE EMIR WANTS TO MEET ME PERSONALLY.
HOW GOOD IS THAT? GOOD MORNING.
HOW ARE YOU? MAN: HOW ARE YOU? COME, COME ALONG, COME.
ADELA: OK, THANK YOU, THANK YOU.
HI.
EMIR: ADELA, YOU ARE WELCOME TO MACHINA, AND YOU ARE NOW GIVEN THE PRIVILEGE TO JOIN US ON THE DURBAR, WHICH WILL BE DONE VERY SHORTLY, AND I HOPE YOU'VE ENJOYED YOUR STAY HERE IN MACHINA, SO YOU'RE WELCOME.
ADELA: THANK YOU SO MUCH.
EMIR: THANK YOU.
ADELA: IT'S AN HONOR FOR ME.
THANK YOU.
WHEN LOCAL WARS WERE FOUGHT ON HORSEBACK, DURBARS WERE HELD EACH YEAR FOR A RULER'S FOLLOWERS TO SHOW THEIR READINESS FOR BATTLE.
TODAY MACHINA'S DURBAR IS PURELY CEREMONIAL, BUT IT CLIMAXES WITH A TRADITIONAL DISPLAY OF ALLEGIANCE IN FRONT OF THE PALACE.
I'M THE ONLY WOMAN TAKING PART.
IT'S SO RARE FOR A WOMAN TO RIDE IN A DURBAR IN MUSLIM NORTHERN NIGERIA THA THE EMIR'S INVITATION REALLY IS A HUGE HONOR.
I'M RIDING RIGH BEHIND THE EMIR, AND THIS IS A POSITION RESERVED ONLY TO HIS FAMILY, SO IT'S A HUGE PRIVILEGE FOR ME.
IT'S THE EXPERIENCE OF A LIFETIME.
IT'S AMAZING.
I'M FEELING LIKE THE QUEEN OF NIGERIA.
[CHEERING.]
.
[YELLING.]
.
THANK YOU, NIGERIA! TRAVELING THROUGH NIGERIA HASN'T ALWAYS BEEN EASY BY ANY MEANS, BUT THERE AREN'T MANY PLACES IN THE WORLD WHERE YOU CAN STILL FEEL LIKE YOU ARE DISCOVERING THE UNKNOWN.
THE FESTIVAL IS STILL GOING ON DOWN THERE IN THE VILLAGE, AND UP HERE, IT FEELS LIKE I'M COMPLETELY ALONE IN THE DESERT.
COME TO NIGERIA, AND DISCOVER IT FOR YOURSELF, AND YOU, TOO, WILL BE REWARDED WITH THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY EXPERIENCES.
WOMAN: STAY TUNED FOR A SPECIAL "GLOBE TREKKER" EXTRA.
ANNOUNCER: FUNDING FOR THIS PROGRAM IS PROVIDED BY SUBARU.
WOMAN: AT SUBARU, WE'RE BUILDING VEHICLES LIKE THE RUGGED OUTBACK, WITH SYMMETRICAL ALL-WHEEL DRIVE STANDARD AND PLENTY OF CARGO SPACE.
FOR THOSE WHO PACK EVEN MORE ADVENTURE INTO LIFE.
SUBARU, A PROUD SPONSOR OF "GLOBE TREKKER.
" MAN: YOU CAN FIND MORE ABOU THE SERIES ON OUR WEBSITE.
PROGRAMS FROM THE "GLOBE TREKKER" SERIES ARE AVAILABLE ON DVD AND NOW ON DEMAND FROM GLOBETREKKERCHANNEL.
TV MUSIC FROM THE SERIES IS AVAILABLE ON CD.
YOU CAN ALSO ORDER THE NEW "GLOBE TREKKER" ANNUAL FEATURING INFORMATION ON FESTIVALS, EVENTS, AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES.
TO ORDER "GLOBE TREKKER" PRODUCTS, CALL 888-565-0361, OR VISIT THE WEBSITE WWW.
GLOBETREKKERTV.
COM.
ZAY: MANDRILLS LIVE IN HUGE GROUPS, THE LARGEST GATHERINGS OF ANY NON-HUMAN PRIMATES.
BY LOCATING JUST ONE MANDRILL WITH A RADIO COLLAR, IT SHOULD BE POSSIBLE TO FIND THE ENTIRE GROUP.
[SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE.]
.
A BEARING OF 69 DEGREES REVEALS ONLY THE GENERAL DIRECTION OF THE MANDRILL GROUP.
TO LOCATE THEM MORE PRECISELY, IT'S NECESSARY TO GET A SECOND BEARING FROM ANOTHER LOCATION.
[SPEAKING FRENCH.]
.
ZAY: DRIVING AROUND THE EDGE OF THE GALLERY FORES IN THE DIRECTION THE MANDRILLS ARE HEADED, LEE THINKS THERE COULD BE UP TO 400 OR 500 IN THE GROUP.
HE'S HOPING TO SET UP A HIDE AT A GAP IN THE TREES, WHERE THE MANDRILLS WILL HAVE TO BRIEFLY CROSS OPEN SAVANNA, BUT UNFORTUNATELY, THE MANDRILLS ARE MOVING TOO FAS AND START CROSSING THE GAP BEFORE LEE CAN SET UP A PROPER HIDE, SO IT'S ONLY POSSIBLE TO GET A DISTANT VIEW OF THEM FROM A MAKESHIFT, TEMPORARY HIDE.
THE VAST MAJORITIES OF MANDRILLS IN THE GROUP ARE FEMALES OR THEIR OFFSPRING, AND THEY'RE THE ONLY ONES CLEARLY VISIBLE.
MOST OF THE FEW BRIGHTLY COLORED ADULT MALES IN THE GROUP MUST HAVE ALREADY CROSSED THE GAP EARLIER.
LEE: I THINK THEY KNEW THAT WE WERE IN THE VICINITY, BUT THEY'RE ALWAYS QUIET WHEN THEY CROSS A GAP LIKE THAT, BECAUSE, YOU KNOW, IT'S A LITTLE BIT DANGEROUS.
THERE MIGHT BE A LEOPARD HIDING OUT THERE OR A HUNTER.
ZAY: IT'S RARE TO BE ABLE TO SEE MANDRILLS IN THE WILD, EVEN FROM A DISTANCE, BU IT'S A SHAME THERE WERE NO BIG ADULT MALES TO BE SEEN CLEARLY.
TO ALLOW ONE LAS CHANCE OF SUCCESS, LEE HEADS MUCH FURTHER UP THE GALLERY FOREST IN ORDER TO HAVE ENOUGH TIME TO BUILD A PROPER HIDE.
LEE: THE FIRST PROBLEM, YOU REALLY HAVE TO CLOSE THE ROOF UP PROPERLY, OR THE VERY FIRS ONE THAT COMES THROUGH IN THE TREES GETS YOU.
ZAY: OVER 3 HOURS PASS IN THE CRAMPED HIDE WITHOUT ANY SIGN OF THE MANDRILLS.
JUST AS LEE IS ABOUT TO GIVE UP, THEY START COMING AT LAST.
LEE: THE YOUNGEST IS COMING THROUGH IN THE TREES IN THE BEGINNING.
I THINK THEY'RE LOOKING FOR PREDATORS.
ZAY: THE MANDRILLS HAVEN'T SPOTTED THE HIDE, AND SOON THE WHOLE TROUP STARTS TO PASS RIGHT IN FRONT.
THE MANDRILLS RANGE THROUGH THE FOREST AN AVERAGE OF AROUND 3 MILES A DAY, FEEDING ON FRUIT TREES AND FORAGING FOR INSECTS AND SEEDS ON THE FOREST FLOOR.
ALL OF A SUDDEN, THE FIRS ADULT MALE COMES INTO VIEW.
[LEE INAUDIBLE.]
.
LEE: THE MOS SPECTACULAR OF THE MAMMALS.
THEY'RE LIKE A MILLION PEACOCKS STRUTTING ALONG.
ZAY: ASTONISHINGLY, THE ADUL MALE MANDRILLS CAN BE UP TO 5 TIMES BIGGER THAN THE FEMALES.
THEY NEED TO BE STRONG SINCE THEY FIGHT FOR THE RIGH TO BREED WITH THE FEMALES.
LEE: THEY USE THEIR TEETH LIKE KNIVES, LIKE PAINTED GLADIATORS THAT FIGHT WITH DAGGERS.
THEY REALLY HAVE A TOUGH LIFE.
THEY DON'T LAST VERY LONG.
THEY MANAGE MAYBE 3 OR 4 BREEDING SEASONS, AND THEY GO OFF TO DIE.
DO NOT GO DOWN.
USUALLY, THE LAST ONE THROUGH IS A BIG MALE.
I GUESS THAT'S THE END OF IT, BUT I RECKON THAT WAS A GOOD 500.
WOMAN: AT SUBARU, WE'RE BUILDING VEHICLES LIKE THE RUGGED OUTBACK, WITH SYMMETRICAL ALL-WHEEL DRIVE STANDARD AND PLENTY OF CARGO SPACE.
FOR THOSE WHO PACK EVEN MORE ADVENTURE INTO LIFE.
SUBARU, A PROUD SPONSOR OF "GLOBE TREKKER.
" ADELA: I'M IN AFRICA'S MOST POPULATED COUNTRY, HOME TO 150 MILLION PEOPLE.
OVERCROWDED AND CHAOTIC, IT'S DEFINITELY NOT ON THE USUAL TOURIST TRAIL BUT BE BOLD AND COME HERE, AND YOU'LL BE REWARDED BY ONE OF THE MOST DIVERSE AND EXCITING COUNTRIES ANYWHERE.
YEE-HAW! WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF NIGERIA! LOCATED AT THE HEART OF WEST AFRICA, THE LARGE COUNTRY OF NIGERIA IS ONE OF AFRICA'S LEADING NATIONS.
STARTING IN LAGOS, NIGERIA'S BIGGEST CITY, I TRAVELED TO LAKOJA ON THE RIVER NIGER.
THEN, VIA THE BIAFRAN WAR SITE OF UMUAHIA, AHEAD TO CALABAR, AND ON TO SEE A RARE PRIMATE AT AFI MOUNTAIN.
MOVING ON TO THE CAPITAL, ABUJA, I MEET THE FAMOUS EMIR OF KANO BEFORE ENDING MY TRIP AT THE DESER FESTIVAL OF MACHINA.
HELLO.
LAGOS IS WHERE MOST TRAVELERS FIRST ARRIVE IN NIGERIA.
HOW LONG IS IT GOING TO TAKE? THE CITY HAS GROWN HUGELY IN RECENT DECADES AND IS NOW ONE OF THE WORLD'S BIGGEST, WITH A POPULATION OF SOME 15 MILLION PEOPLE.
TOO MANY PEOPLE, NOT ENOUGH ROAD.
HOW MUCH? MAN: 200.
ADELA: NO, NO, NO, NO, NO.
50, 50.
MOSQUITO NETS, TOYS, CHEWING GUM IT'S LIKE A SUPERMARKET.
THE JOURNEY FROM THE AIRPOR TO THE CENTER OF LAGOS HAS BEEN A LONG, HOT STRUGGLE AND SEEMS TO HAVE TAKEN FOREVER.
BYE-BYE.
LUCKILY, AMIDST ALL THE CHAOS, I'M STAYING AT A REAL OASIS OF CALM, THE BOGOBIRI GUESTHOUSE.
GOING THROUGH ALL THAT TRAFFIC IT WAS A NIGHTMARE.
BUT THIS PLACE LOOKS GREAT.
IT'S NOT CHEAP, THOUGH, BUT I RECKON IT'S GOING TO BE WORTH IT.
OH, WOW.
LOOK AT THIS HUGE BED.
MY TRIP AROUND THE REST OF THE COUNTRY IS GOING TO BE TOUGH ENOUGH, SO I'D BETTER ENJOY SOME LUXURY WHILE I CAN.
I THINK IT'S TIME FOR A BATH.
HEH! SO BYE-BYE.
NEXT MORNING, AFTER A LUXURIOUS NIGHT'S SLEEP, I HEAD BACK INTO THE WHIRLWIND OF TRAFFIC.
I'M OFF TO CHECK OUT THE CENTRAL MARKET WITH LOCAL RESIDENT BISOLA EDUN.
NIGERIA'S DUBIOUS INTERNATIONAL REPUTATION FOR CORRUPTION, SCAMS, INSECURITY, AND SO ON PUTS OFF MANY TRAVELERS FROM COMING HERE, BUT ESPECIALLY IF YOU'VE GO SOME LOCAL CONTACTS TO LOOK AFTER YOU AND HELP SHOW YOU AROUND, IT CAN BE A FASCINATING COUNTRY TO VISIT.
OK, THIS IS IT, RIGHT? BISOLA: YEAH.
ADELA: OH, WHAT IS THIS? BISOLA: OH, THIS IS A SMOKED FISH.
WELL, IT'S USED IN COOKING, ACTUALLY.
ADELA: OH, FOR COOKING? BISOLA: YEAH, YEAH.
ADELA: IT DOESN' LOOK VERY INVITING.
BISOLA: IT'S OK.
HA-HA-HA! ADELA: OH, LOOK AT THAT! PIGS FEET.
BISOLA: IT'S ACTUALLY COW LEG.
ADELA: OH, LOOK AT THAT.
IT'S A HUGE SNAIL.
BISOLA: HUGE SNAILS.
ADELA: WOW.
BISOLA: WE CALL THEM ESCARGOT.
ADELA: IS IT FROM THE SEA OR FROM THE EARTH? BISOLA: FROM THE EARTH.
ADELA: FROM THE EARTH.
BISOLA: YES.
ADELA: WELL, IN SPAIN WE ALSO HAVE SNAILS, BUT THEY ARE THIS SIZE.
BISOLA: THEY'RE SMALL.
NO, OVER HERE IT'S THE BIGGER THE BETTER.
ADLEA: IT LOOKS DISGUSTING.
[SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE.]
.
[LAUGHING.]
.
THE BIZARRE FOOD ON OFFER HERE ISN'T QUITE MY THING, BUT I AM KEEN TO CHECK OU SOME OF NIGERIA'S EXCELLEN LOCAL FABRICS, WHICH ARE ON SALE HERE.
BISOLA IS A FASHION DESIGNER, SO SHE SHOULD BE ABLE TO GIVE ME SOME GOOD ADVICE ABOUT WHAT TO BUY.
IS FASHION VERY IMPORTANT IN NIGERIA? BISOLA: OH, YEAH.
I MEAN, YOU'D FIND THAT THE AVERAGE NIGERIAN WOMAN THEY TEND TO BE VERY AWARE OF WHAT THEY ARE WEARING.
ADLEA: THERE ARE SO MANY FABRICS.
BISOLA: YEAH, BEAUTIFUL STUFF, YEAH.
ADELA: BUT IT MUS BE DIFFICULT TO CHOOSE FROM ALL THIS.
BISOLA: WELL, I FIND IT QUITE INTIMIDATING.
THE THING IS JUST TO, LIKE, FOCUS AND JUST ZONE IN ON THAT ONE THING THA YOU WOULD LIKE.
ADELA: LOOK AT THIS, BEAUTIFUL.
BISOLA: YEAH.
[SPEAKING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE.]
ADELA: THESE ONES ARE BEAUTIFUL.
BISOLA: THIS IS VERY NICE.
OH, THAT'S VERY PRETTY.
ADELA: THIS ONE'S FANTASTIC.
BISOLA: THAT'S VERY PRETTY.
ADELA: THIS ONE'S VERY FUNKY.
YOU HAVE MANY COLORS.
BISOLA: WOULD YOU LIKE TO PICK ONE? ADELA: WHICH ONE WOULD YOU RECOMMEND? I DON'T KNOW.
BISOLA: I LIKE THAT ONE.
ADELA: YEAH? BISOLA: DID YOU LIKE IT? ADELA: WOULD IT SUIT ME? BISOLA: OH, YEAH.
ADELA: YEAH, AND HOW MUCH IS THIS? WOMAN: IT'S 1,600 FOR THIS, YES.
ADELA: OK.
HISTORICALLY, MANY OF THESE FABRICS WERE INSPIRED BY INDONESIAN ONES IMPORTED TO AFRICA, BUT NIGERIANS HAVE NOW ADAPTED THE DESIGNS TO THEIR OWN TASTES.
BISOLA: THAT'S A LITTLE OVER $10 FOR THE 6 YARDS.
SHE CAN'T CUT IT.
ADELA: THAT'D BE ENOUGH FOR ONE DRESS, RIGHT? BISOLA: OH YEAH, MORE THAN ENOUGH.
YOU CAN GET, SHOOT, 3 DRESSES FROM THIS.
ADLEA: OH, GREAT.
AND, UH IT LOOKS BEAUTIFUL ON YOU.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
THERE YOU ARE.
KEEP THE CHANGE.
YOU'VE BEEN VERY NICE TO US.
NIGERIAN WOMEN ARE RENOWNED AS AMONGST THE MOST STYLISH DRESSERS IN AFRICA, AND I'M FEELING SERIOUSLY UNDERDRESSED.
AT BISOLA'S RECOMMENDATION, I'M TAKING MY FABRIC TO A TAILOR TO HAVE I MADE UP INTO A LOCAL OUTFI ON THE SPOT.
TAILOR: HI, GOOD AFTERNOON.
ADELA: GOOD AFTERNOON.
TAILOR: YEAH.
ADELA: I WOULD LIKE TO HAVE A DRESS MADE OF THIS STUFF.
TAILOR: OK.
ADEL IT'S POSSIBLE? TAILOR: YEAH, IT'S POSSIBLE.
ADELA: YEAH? TODAY MANY POPULAR DRESSES ARE BASED ON TRADITIONAL AFRICAN DESIGNS WITH A MODERN TWIST.
FOR A ONE-OFF HANDMADE DRESS, THE PRICE IS EXTREMELY GOOD VALUE AT JUST OVER $30.
I'VE GOT AN HOUR TO KILL WHILE THE DRESS IS MADE UP, SO LIKE ANY SENSIBLE GIRL WOULD, I'M GOING TO USE THE TIME TO DO SOME MORE SHOPPING FOR SOUVENIRS.
HOW MUCH IS THIS? MAN: 6,000.
ADELA: VERY EXPENSIVE.
MAN: YOU KNOW, IT'S BECAUSE THIS IS BRONZE.
ADELA: THIS IS BRONZE? MAN: THIS IS BRONZE.
ADELA: I LIKE IT, BUT 6,000 IS TOO MUCH.
MAN: NOT TOO MUCH.
ADELA: I GIVE YOU 2,500.
MAN: NO, NO, NO, NO.
GIVE YOU FOR 5.
ADELA: NO, NO, NO, NO.
5 IS TOO MUCH, 5 IS TOO MUCH.
3,000.
MAN: NO, NO, NO.
ADELA: 3,000 IS FAIR.
MAN; OK, YOU KNOW WHAT? JUST TAKE IT 4,500.
ADELA: 4,500, NO.
4, LAST PRICE.
MAN: 4, LAST PRICE? ADELA: LAST PRICE.
MAN: OK 4, FINE.
[INAUDIBLE.]
.
ADELA: THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
OK, THERE YOU ARE.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
MAN: THANK YOU.
ADELA: BYE.
MAN:THANK YOU, THANK YOU.
ADELA: HELLO.
TAILOR: HI.
ADELA: HOW ARE YOU? TAILOR: I'M FINE.
ADELA: OK, SO THIS IS IT, RIGHT? OH, IT LOOKS BEAUTIFUL.
TAILOR: THANK YOU.
ADELA: THERE YOU ARE.
THANK YOU SO MUCH.
SEE YOU NEXT TIME.
BYE-BYE.
TAILOR: YEAH.
ADELA: I DON'T COME ACROSS MANY OTHER TRAVELERS WHILS I'M WANDERING AROUND, BU THOSE WHO DO MAKE IT HERE TO NIGERIA HAVE LOTS OF GOOD THINGS TO SAY ABOUT IT.
WOMAN: I ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT.
IT'S A SERIOUSLY INTERESTING PLACE, NOT LIKE ANYWHERE I'VE BEEN BEFORE, BUT, YEAH, NO, I LOVE IT, AND THE HEAT'S, ONCE YOU'RE USED TO THE HEAT, IT'S ALL RIGHT.
WOMAN 2: THE PEOPLE ARE FANTASTIC.
THEY'RE VERY, VERY FRIENDLY, AND WE'RE THOROUGHLY ENJOYING OUR TIME HERE.
THIS MARKET IS AMAZING.
BEAUTIFUL, BEAUTIFUL STUFF TO BUY.
GIRL: I HAVEN'T ACTUALLY FELT LIKE MY SAFETY'S BEEN COMPROMISED AT ALL, AND I DON'T REALLY MAYBE YOU GET A BIT NERVOUS, AND, YOU KNOW, YOU DON'T WAN TO LEAVE STUFF LYING AROUND OR WHATEVER, BUT I LIVE IN SOUTH AFRICA, SO I MEAN, YOU KIND IT'S MUCH OF A MATCH, REALLY, IN TERMS OF SAFETY.
ADELA: ALTHOUGH MOS NIGERIANS ARE VERY FRIENDLY, THERE IS PLENTY OF CRIME IN NIGERIA.
TAKE ADVICE FROM LOCALS, AND ONLY GO TO PLACES THAT THEY SAY ARE SAFE, ESPECIALLY AT NIGHT.
LUCKILY, I DON'T NEED TO WORRY ABOUT SUCH THINGS TONIGHT, AS I'M HEADING TO THE POSHEST PART OF TOWN.
TA-DA! HOW DO I LOOK? IT'S BEAUTIFUL, HUH? I LOVE IT.
I HOPE I'M DRESSED APPROPRIATELY, BECAUSE I'VE BEEN INVITED TO THE LAUNCH PARTY OF A REALITY TV FASHION SHOW, AND I'VE HEARD THERE ARE A LOT OF FANCY PEOPLE INSIDE.
SO LET'S MINGLE.
ALTHOUGH THERE IS A LO OF POVERTY IN NIGERIA, THERE'S ALSO A LOT OF MONEY HERE, TOO, AND THE GLITTERATI DEFINITELY LIKE TO ENJOY THE GOOD LIFE.
IT'S REALLY NOT THE DONE THING IN LAGOS SOCIETY TO GO TO JUST ONE PARTY A NIGHT, SO ONCE I'VE HAD MY FILL OF FREE CHAMPAGNE, I DITCH MY POSH DRESS AND HOOK UP WITH SOME GUYS FROM THE BOGOBIRI GUESTHOUSE AND HEAD TO A MUCH MORE DOWN-TO-EARTH VENUE.
WHAT A COOL BUS.
DRIVER: THANK YOU.
ADELA: IS IT GOING TO TAKE LONG? DRIVER: IT'S ABOU A 30-MINUTE DRIVE.
IS IT YOUR FIRS TIME IN LAGOS? ADELA: IT IS THE FIRST TIME IN LAGOS.
I HAVE THE FEELING IT'S GOING TO BE A GREAT NIGHT, ISN'T IT? DRIVER: IT'S GOING TO BE A GREAT NIGHT.
ADELA: WE'RE HEADING TO SEE NIGERIA'S LEADING AFRO-BEAT MUSICIAN, FEMI KUTI, AT THE FAMOUS AFRICA SHRINE.
TONIGHT IS REHEARSAL NIGHT, AND ANYBODY'S WELCOME TO TURN UP FOR FREE.
FEMI KUTI: AFRICA, AFRICA.
AFRICA, AFRICA IS THE WAY I SAY.
AFRICA, AFRICA.
HEY, HEY, HEY, HEY.
ADELA: FEMI KUTI IS HUGELY POPULAR IN NIGERIA AND INTERNATIONALLY RENOWNED, TOO.
HELLO, HOW ARE YOU DOING? FEMI: THE KING OF AFRO-BEAT.
ADELA: YEAH, I KNOW.
NICE TO MEET YOU.
IT'S AN HONOR.
FEMI'S FATHER, FELA KUTI, WAS AN EVEN BIGGER MUSICAL STAR, WHO IN THE 1970s AND 1980s USED HIS MUSIC POLITICALLY TO FIGHT AGAINST GOVERNMEN CORRUPTION AND MISMANAGEMENT.
YEAH, YOU'RE KEEPING THE FAMILY'S TRADITION, HUH? FEMI: YEAH, YEAH, YEAH.
WE'RE STILL IN THE BATTLE MY FATHER ENLIGHTENED US ABOUT.
WE STILL DON' HAVE ELECTRICITY.
WE STILL HAVE BAD ROADS.
THE CORRUPTION IS STILL BAD, AND WE'RE A RICH COUNTRY.
ADELA: AND WITH YOUR SONGS AND YOUR MUSIC, YOU'RE TRYING TO FIGHT AGAINST THAT, RIGHT? FEMI: PEOPLE TAKE THE HANDOUTS AT THE SHRINE, AND THE MUSIC TAKES THE FRUSTRATION AWAY, SO WE DANCE OUR PROBLEMS AWAY.
ADELA: THE DIVIDE BETWEEN RICH AND POOR REMAINS HORRIBLY EXTREME IN NIGERIA, BUT FEMI KUTI'S REHEARSAL NIGHTS DO A LEAST PROVIDE A GREAT FREE NIGHT OUT FOR THOSE WHO CAN' AFFORD TO PAY.
[FEMI SCATTING.]
.
[CHEERS AND APPLAUSE.]
.
WHAT A GREAT NIGHT THAT WAS.
I COULD EASILY SPEND A WHOLE DAY JUST CHILLING OUT, BUT MY TRIP AROUND NIGERIA HAS JUST BEGUN, AND IT'S TIME TO MOVE ON.
I'VE SPENT MORE THAN ENOUGH TIME SITTING IN TRAFFIC OVER THE PAST COUPLE OF DAYS, SO TO HEAD UP COUNTRY, I'VE DECIDED TO TRAVEL IN STYLE AND CATCH THE PLANE.
FROM LAGOS, I FLY NORTHEAST, TRAVELING OVER 250 MILES TO WHERE NIGERIA'S TWO BIGGEST RIVERS, THE NIGER AND BENUE, MEET AT THE TOWN OF LAKOJA.
[INAUDIBLE GROUP CHATTER.]
AH, THIS BREEZE.
WHAT IS THIS? [SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE.]
.
CASSAVA.
AH, I SEE.
WOMAN: YOU WANT TO USE IT? ADELA: OH, NO, THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
SORRY, OH MY, THIS IS LIKE A DRY FISH LABYRINTH.
WHAT IS THIS? [SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE.]
.
WHAT IS IT? [SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE.]
.
BUSH MEAT? I CAN'T EVEN RECOGNIZE WHA KIND OF ANIMAL IT COULD BE.
IS IT NICE? WOMAN: YEAH.
ADELA: DELICACY? WOMAN: YEAH.
ADELA: YEAH? HOW DO YOU COOK IT? MAN: YOU CAN COOK IT AS YOU LIKE.
ADELA: OH, YOU JUST EAT IT STRAIGHT? MAN: YES, TO EAT.
EAT YOU BETTER IN YOUR LIFE.
ADELA: IT MAKES YOU FEEL BETTER IN YOUR WHOLE LIFE? MAN: THAT IS THAT, THAT IS THAT.
ADELA: BYE, THANK YOU.
IT TURNED OUT THAT IT'S ACTUALLY BARBECUED CANE RAT, SO I'M MORE THAN HAPPY TO HAVE GIVEN IT A MISS.
MANGOES HUH, HOW MUCH IS IT? WOMAN: THIS, 20 NAIRA.
THIS ONE, 10 NAIRA.
ADELA: 10 NAIRA.
THERE YOU ARE, THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
WOMAN: THANK YOU, GOOD-BYE.
ADELA: IN PLACES LIKE THIS, IT'S ADVISED NOT TO HAVE JUS ANYTHING THAT YOU CAN FIND ON THE STREET, BUT THERE'S ALWAYS THINGS THAT YOU CAN EAT, AND MANGOES, IN A COUNTRY LIKE NIGERIA, ARE A DELICACY.
NOTHING LIKE YOU'VE EVER TASTED.
HELLO.
CAN YOU GIVE ME A RIDE TO THE CENTER OF TOWN? YEAH? OK, LET'S GO.
AT 2,600 MILES LONG, THE NIGER IS AFRICA'S THIRD LONGEST RIVER.
TODAY IT'S USED FOR TRADE, BUT IN THE PAST IT WAS ALSO A HIGHWAY FOR EXPLORATION.
IN THE 19th CENTURY, WHEN THERE WERE ONLY A FEW DIR TRAILS THROUGH THE FOREST, THE RIVER WAS BY FAR THE EASIES WAY FOR EXPLORERS TO TRAVEL THROUGH NIGERIA'S UNKNOWN INTERIOR.
WHEN A BRITISH STEAMSHIP EXPEDITION FINALLY MADE IT ALL THE WAY UP HERE IN 1841, LAKOJA BECAME THE FIRST PLACE AWAY FROM THE COAST TO BE SETTLED BY NIGERIA'S FUTURE COLONIAL RULERS.
AMONGST THE EXPLORERS' AIMS WERE TO OPEN UP THE INTERIOR FOR BRITISH TRADE, TO SAVE SOULS BY SPREADING CHRISTIANITY, AND TO ABOLISH SLAVERY, BUT WITHIN DECADES, NIGERIA WAS SWALLOWED UP INTO THE BRITISH EMPIRE.
HEY, YOU.
I AM MEETING UP WITH JOURNALIST MOHAMMED BASHIR, WHO HAS AGREED TO SHOW ME THE TOWN'S BRITISH COLONIAL LEGACY.
MOHAMMED: THIS ONE OF THE BUILDING GOVERNMENT QUARTERS, BUILT BY THE BRITISH COLONIAL MASTERS.
ADELA: WHY IS I STANDING ON STILTS? MOHAMMED: OH, THIS ENVIRONMENT USED TO BE VERY, VERY SWAMPY.
THEY HAVE TO SUSPEND THE BUILDING.
THE MATERIALS THERE WERE SHIPPED FROM ENGLAND.
ADELA: REALLY? MOHAMMED: IT'S OVER 100 YEARS, UNTOUCHED.
ADELA: THAT'S BEAUTIFUL, ISN'T IT? MOHAMMED: YES, SO LET ME TAKE YOU TO OTHER PLACES.
ADELA: FOR MOHAMMED, THE BIGGEST LEGACY OF THE BRITISH WASN'T SO MUCH WHA THEY BUILT IN NIGERIA.
IT WAS THE VERY CREATION OF THE COUNTRY THA THEY LEFT BEHIND.
MOHAMMED: BEFORE THE BRITISH LEFT THIS COUNTRY IN 1960, THEY BROUGHT GOOD THINGS.
THEY BROUGHT BAD THINGS AS WELL.
BUT THE MOST IMPORTANT THING, WE GOT OUR INDEPENDENCE, AND WE ARE PROUD OF THAT.
ADELA: OF COURSE YOU ARE.
MOHAMMED: BY THE END OF IT, THIS WHAT IS LEFT OF THEM.
ADELA: A FEW GRAVES, HUH? MOHAMMED: YEAH, GRAVES.
ADELA: IT WAS IN 1914 THAT THE BRITISH FIRST UNIFIED NIGERIA AS ONE COUNTRY.
NUMEROUS COMPETING TRIBES, SUCH AS THE YORUBA, HAUSA, AND IGBO WERE JOINED TOGETHER IN THE NEW NATION, AND THIS LED TO CONFLIC AFTER INDEPENDENCE IN 1960.
MOHAMMED SAYS THE VIEW FROM A HILL ABOVE TOWN HELPS EXPLAIN THE SITUATION.
MOHAMMED: HERE WE ARE.
ADELA: LOOK AT THAT.
WOW, WHAT A VIEW.
MOHAMMED: YEAH, THIS IS WHERE WE GET THE REAL VIEW OF THE CONFLUENCE.
THIS SIDE OF THE RIVER WHERE WE ARE STANDING ARE THE YORUBAS.
AT THE FAR SIDE OF THE RIVER ARE THE IGBOS, WHILE BETWEEN THE TWO RIVERS, YOU HAVE HAUSAS, BUT THE INTERVENTION OF THE BRITISH COLONY BROUGHT US TOGETHER AND MADE ONE NIGERIA, ONE NATION.
ADELA: ONE NATION.
MOHAMMED: THEN NEXT UP, NIGERIA, BUT AFTER INDEPENDENCE, CRISIS HERE AND THERE, RELIGION CRISIS, ETHNIC CRISIS, YOU KNOW, NAME THEM.
ADELA: AND ULTIMATELY, THAT LED INTO THE CIVIL WAR.
MOHAMMED: EXACTLY.
YOU ARE VERY, VERY CORRECT.
THAT LED INTO CIVIL WAR.
ADELA: OF NIGERIA'S 250 ETHNIC GROUPS, THE YORUBA, HAUSA, AND IGBO ARE THE LARGEST.
IT WAS IN 1967 WHEN IGBO-DOMINATED BIAFRA DECLARED INDEPENDENCE AND CIVIL WAR ERUPTED.
I'M NOW HEADING ONWARDS FROM LAKOJA TO THE AREA WHERE THE BIAFRAN WAR WAS FOUGHT.
MOHAMMED TAKES ME TO CATCH A FERRY ACROSS THE NIGER.
BYE-BYE, MOHAMMED.
THANK YOU SO MUCH.
MOHAMMED: TAKE CARE.
ADELA: THANK YOU.
MOHAMMED: AND HAVE FUN.
ADELA: YEAH, I WILL, FOR SURE.
AFTER CROSSING THE NIGER FROM LAKOJA, I TRAVEL NEARLY 200 MILES SOUTHEAST TO REACH THE TOWN OF UMUAHIA.
ONCE THE SITE OF THE MILITARY HEADQUARTERS OF THE FORMER BREAKAWAY STATE OF BIAFRA, TODAY IT'S THE LOCATION OF THE NATIONAL WAR MUSEUM.
OK, THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
AT THE WAR MUSEUM CAFE, BIZARRELY LOCATED ON THE DECK OF AN OLD WARSHIP, I'M MEETING BIAFRAN WAR VETERAN SASSAN WALKE.
OY, THAT WAS STEEP.
OH, IT'S SO NICE TO MEET YOU.
SASAN: GOD BLESS YOU.
ADELA: GOD BLESS YOU, TOO.
SASAN: GOOD DAY, GOOD DAY.
ADELA: WHAT A COOL PLACE TO MEET.
SASAN: OH, YEAH ADELA: AND WHA DO YOU HAVE HERE? SASAN: OH, THAT WAS ME 42 YEARS AGO IN BIAFRAN ARMY.
ADELA: REALLY, THIS IS YOU? SASAN: YEAH, YEAH, THAT'S ME THERE IN THE MIDDLE ADELA: YOU WERE ONLY A CHILD.
SASAN: I WAS 17 THEN.
THAT WAS A LONG TIME, LIFETIME AGO, ISN'T IT? WHY DON'T I TAKE YOU TO GO SEE THE WEAPONRY? ADELA: OH YEAH, THAT WOULD BE FANTASTIC.
YEAH, LET'S GO, THEN.
SASAN: THAT WOULD BE GREAT.
THIS WAY, THANKS.
ADELA: THE BRUTAL BIAFRAN WAR LASTED NEARLY 3 YEARS AND IS THOUGHT TO HAVE RESULTED IN THE DEATHS OF WELL OVER A MILLION PEOPLE.
MOST WERE CIVILIANS WHO DIED FROM A TERRIBLE FAMINE THA DECIMATED THE BIAFRANS AND SHOCKED THE WORLD.
THE NIGERIAN FEDERAL ARMY WAS SUPPLIED WITH STATE-OF-THE-AR WEAPONRY BY BRITAIN AND OTHER MAJOR NATIONS.
BY CONTRAST, THE BIAFRAN ARMY, WHICH SASSAN FOUGHT IN, HAD ALMOST NO INTERNATIONAL ALLIES, AND SO THEY MOSTLY HAD TO FIGHT WITH SECOND-RATE AND IMPROVISED HOMEMADE WEAPONS.
SASAN: WE'RE LOOKING A WHAT ARE CALLED RED DEVIL, AND OBVIOUSLY, YOU CAN SEE THAT ANYONE WHO WAS IN HERE SHOULD HAVE BEEN BLOWN TO PIECES.
THIS RED DEVIL WAS THROWN MOST PROBABLY BY 1 OR 6.
THE MACHINE GUN WAS MOUNTED IN THERE, AND THIS HAD A NARROW FIELD OF FIRE.
VERY NARROW, I'M NOT TOO SURE, 20 DEGREES FOR A FIELD OF FIRE, SO IF YOU HAD AN ENEMY 90 DEGREES TO YOUR RIGHT, YOU HAD TO TURN THE TRACK, AND YOU CAN IMAGINE HOW LONG THAT WOULD TAKE, AND BEFORE YOU TURN AROUND, WHAT IF SHE BLOWS YOU TO PIECES? ADELA: SO THESE WERE NO GOOD MACHINES AT ALL, RIGHT? SASAN: WE WERE JUS LIKE, WHAT DO YOU CALL IT? WE JUST OUT THERE FOR THE SLAUGHTER.
IT WAS SUICIDE, BUT THEN, WE HAD TO DO THIS THING, BECAUSE WE HAD NO CHOICE.
IT WAS EITHER WE DID THAT OR WE GOT BUTCHERED, AND I THINK I'M BETTER OFF DYING FIGHTING TO PROTECT MY CHILDREN THAN RUN AWAY.
YOU CAN'T TOUCH MY MOTHER WHILE I LIVE.
YOU CANNOT, EVEN IF YOU WERE 12 FEET TALL.
ADELA: COMPLETELY OUTGUNNED, THE BIAFRAN BREAKAWAY STATE HAD PICKED AN UNWINNABLE BATTLE.
FROM A TERRITORY THEY HAD CLAIMED IN 1967, THE BIAFRAN ARMY WAS GRADUALLY PUSHED BACK BY THE NIGERIAN FEDERAL FORCES UNTIL BIAFRA WAS FINALLY FORCED TO SURRENDER IN 1970.
WOMAN: HALLELUJAH! [SINGING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE.]
.
ADELA: THE DIVISIONS OF THE BIAFRAN WAR HAVE TAKEN TIME TO HEAL AND SASSAN IS JUS ONE OF MANY VETERANS WHO HAVE SOUGHT SOLACE FROM MAN'S INHUMANITY TO MAN THROUGH FAITH IN GOD.
NIGERIA IS ONE OF THE MOS RELIGIOUS COUNTRIES ON EARTH.
MOST NORTHERN NIGERIANS ARE DEVOUTLY MUSLIM, WHILST THE MAJORITY OF PEOPLE HERE IN THE SOUTH ARE FERVENTLY CHRISTIAN.
MAN: GOD IS SO WONDERFUL TO MY LIFE AND MY FAMILIES HOUSEHOLD.
I AM SO GRATEFUL TO GOD.
WOMAN: I FEEL HAPPY WHENEVER I'M DANCING AND SINGING PRAISES TO GOD IN MY DIALECT.
I FEEL HAPPY, I FEEL GREAT.
MAN: GOD IS VERY VALUABLE IN MY LIFE.
HE IS VERY IMPORTAN ALL THROUGH MY LIFE.
GOD IS GREAT.
[CHEERS AND APPLAUSE.]
.
MAN: THANK YOU.
ADELA: HIS IS SO MUCH MORE FUN THAN ANY OTHER CHURCH SERVICE I'VE EVER BEEN TO.
NO WONDER THEY'RE SO DEVOTED.
BYE.
THAT WAS SO GOOD.
I LOVED IT.
FROM UMUAHIA, I'M HEADING ANOTHER 70 MILES OR SO TO THE TOWN OF CALABAR, CLOSE TO NIGERIA'S SOUTHEASTERN BORDER.
LIKE ALL OF SOUTHERN NIGERIA, CALABAR IS DEEPLY CHRISTIAN, BUT ALONGSIDE THEIR FAITH, THE PEOPLE HOLD ON TO TRADITIONAL BELIEFS, TOO.
COUPLES USUALLY HAVE TWO WEDDINGS, FOR EXAMPLE, BOTH CHRISTIAN AND TRIBAL.
I AM HEADING INTO THE COUNTRYSIDE OUTSIDE CALABAR TO ATTEND A TRADITIONAL EFIK TRIBAL WEDDING.
I AM HEADING THERE WITH EFIK CHIEF UNKOYO ATOUOKPO, WHO'S OFFICIATING AT THE CEREMONY.
A COLLAPSED BRIDGE MEANS THAT WE CAN'T CROSS TO THE OTHER SIDE OF THE RIVER BY CAR.
IT'S GOING TO BE SO MUCH FUN IN THE WEDDING.
NKOYO: YEAH! THERE ARE GOING TO BE MORE THAN 1,500 PERSONS THERE.
ADELA: WHAT? THAT'S HUGE FOR ME.
NKOYO: YEAH, YOU WILL SEE THEM, AND ALL THE WOMEN ARE WEARING THEIR TRADITIONAL WEAR, [INAUDIBLE.]
ADELA: AND WHAT ARE ALL THOSE BOYS DOING WITH THE SAND? NKOYO: THEY WANT TO SELL I AND MAKE MONEY TO GO AND MOLD BLOCKS AND MAKE HOUSES.
ADELA: I SEE.
MUST BE A VERY HARD JOB.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
LET'S GO.
WHOA! THAT WAS FUN.
WHOA, HEY.
WHAT A NICE RIDE! THAT WAS FANTASTIC.
NKOYO: YEAH! CAN I NOW MAKE YOUR HAIR FOR YOU? ADELA: OH, YES, PLEASE.
NKOYO: WE CALL I [INAUDIBLE.]
.
ADELA: AND THE BIGGER, THE BETTER, RIGHT? NOW THERE WE GO.
OH, MY EAR NKOYO: SORRY.
ADELA: OW.
NKOYO: YOU ARE SHOUTING TOO MUCH.
ADELA: OK, OK, HERE WE GO.
NKOYO: WAIT, HOLD ON.
ADELA: I SURVIVED.
I'M FINE.
OK, NOW I'M READY TO BE PRESENTED TO THE AFRICAN SOCIETY.
NKOYO: YEAH, OK.
ADELA: LET'S GO, THEN.
NKOYO: ALL RIGHT.
ADELA: WE HEAD INSIDE TO SEE THE BRIDE GETTING READY FOR HER BIG DAY.
LOOK AT THE BRIDE.
BEAUTIFUL.
NKOYO: HAIR IS UP TO HER WAIST.
WE CALL IT ITOMA.
ADELA: ITOMA? NKOYO: YEAH, THAT IS HAIR SPECIFICALLY FOR BRIDES.
THAT'S WHAT MAKES HER A EFIK GIRL.
[CHANTING.]
.
ADELA: WHILST THE BRIDE MAKES HER FINISHING TOUCHES, THE BRIDEGROOM IS MAKING HIS WAY TOWARDS THE CEREMONY WITH HIS USHERS DRESSED IN TRADITIONAL EFIK TRIBAL COSTUMES.
NKOYO: A MARRIED WOMAN HAS TO GO ALONG WITH WHAT? DIGNITY.
THAT'S WHY WE GIVE THEM STUFF, SO STICK YOUR STUFF FROM TODAY.
ADELA: WOW, YOU LOOK UNBELIEVABLE.
NKOYO: YEAH, OH MY GOD.
ADELA: THANK YOU AND GOOD LUCK.
GOOD LUCK.
[SINGING INAUDIBLY.]
.
ADELA: WITH BRIDE AND BRIDEGROOM TOGETHER AT LAS AND THEIR TRADITIONAL WEDDING GIFTS PRESENTED, CHIEF UNKOYO DECLARES THE HAPPY COUPLE HUSBAND AND WIFE.
[SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE.]
.
SO THEY'RE MARRIED NOW, AND FOR THE FIRST TIME, THEY CAN DANCE TOGETHER.
[CHEERS AND APPLAUSE.]
.
ACCORDING TO CUSTOM, THE HAPPY COUPLE ARE SHOWERED WITH GOOD FORTUNE BY FRIENDS AND FAMILY.
BUT NOT ALL EFIK MARRIAGE TRADITIONS SURVIVE TODAY.
THE EFIK HAVE TRADITIONALLY THOUGHT BIG IS BEAUTIFUL, AND EFIK GIRLS USED TO SPEND MONTHS BEING FATTENED UP BEFORE THEY GOT MARRIED.
THE TRADITION HAS DIED OUT IN RECENT DECADES, BUT WHEN CHIEF UNKOYO WAS A YOUNG WOMAN, SHE WAS FATTENED UP.
AFTER THE WEDDING IS OVER, SHE TAKES ME TO THE MARKE BACK IN CALABAR, WHERE SHE WAS PRESENTED IN FRONT OF EVERYONE AFTER MONTHS OF SECLUSION IN A FATTENING ROOM.
NKOYO: WHEN I WAS A YOUNG GIRL AND I WAS IN THE FATTENING ROOM, AND AFTER MY FATTENING ROOM, MY PARENTS TOOK ME TO THE MARKET, I QUITE REMEMBER THAT DAY.
A YOUNG MAN WAS PICKED TO CARRY ME ON HIS SHOULDER.
ADELA: REALLY? NKOYO: I'M TELLING YOU IT WAS SPLENDID, AND I HAD PEOPLE FOLLOWING ME WITH DRUMS, AND THEY GAVE ME A STAFF, AND I HAD THAT OUR TRADITIONAL HAIR WITH BRASS COMBS, AND I WAS DANCING.
ADELA: REALLY? YOU WERE DOING THE NKOYO: YEAH, IN THE MARKET, AND PEOPLE WERE GIVING ME SO MANY GIFTS.
ADELA: REALLY? NKOYO: YEAH.
ADELA: AND WHAT WERE THEY GIVING YOU TO MAKE YOU FAT? NKOYO: OH, MY GOD.
ADELA: WHAT KIND OF FOOD? NKOYO: THERE WERE SO MANY TYPES OF FOOD, LIKE THE PLANTAIN, THE FUFU, AND VEGETABLE SOUP.
THEY GAVE ME WHA WE CALL EKPANG.
THAT IS GRATED COCOYAM WITH A GRATED WATER YAM, AND THEN IT'S MADE TIGHT, AND THEN I TAKE IT ADELA: THERE'S SO MANY THINGS, I DON'T EVEN KNOW WHAT THEY ARE.
NKOYO: YEAH, THESE ARE YAMS, THE PERIWINKLE, AND THE CRAYFISH, AND WE COMBINE, AND THEY COOK, AND YOU EAT, AND AS YOU EAT IT, HONESTLY SPEAKING, YOU WILL GET FATTER.
ADELA: FATTER.
AND WHAT IS THIS? NKOYO: THIS IS GARI, WHICH IS MADE FROM CASSAVA.
ADELA: AND THIS IS VERY FATTENING? NKOYO: THIS IS CASSAVA.
YES, IT IS.
IT'S CARBOHYDRATE.
ADELA: HOW MANY TIMES WERE YOU EATING? NKOYO: OH, MY GOD.
I CANNOT COUNT, BECAUSE IN THE FATTENING ROOM, YOUR MOTHER WANTS TO SEE YOU GETTING FATTER.
SO EVERY ONE OR TWO OR 3 HOURS, SHE MUST FEED YOU.
ADELA: WHAT? BUT YOU MUS HAVE FELT SO FULL.
NKOYO: YEAH, AND I QUITE REMEMBER ONCE I GOT FED UP, AND THEN I VOMITED, AND MY MOTHER GOT ANNOYED AND THEN BEAT ME UP AND THEN FORCED ME TO EAT AGAIN.
ADELA: WHAT? NKOYO: AND I ATE, BECAUSE SHE WANTED TO SEE ME GETTING FATTER.
ADELA: OH.
I HAVE HAD A LO OF FUN IN CALABAR, BUT IT'S TIME TO MOVE ON.
I AM HEADING TO THE RAINFOREST, AND IT'S GOING TO BE A REALLY LONG JOURNEY.
IS THIS TRAVELING TO IKOM? DRIVER: YEAH.
ADELA: AND IS IT FULL? DRIVER: NO, WE ARE LEFT WITH 3 PLACES.
ADELA: THERE'S 3 SEATS LEFT? DRIVER: WE HAVE 1, 2, 3 SEATS YES.
ADELA: OK, THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
DRIVER: GET ON.
ADELA: THE THING IS THAT HERE IN NIGERIA, BUSES DON'T LEAVE UNTIL THEY ARE FULL, SO YOU EITHER WAIT, OR YOU CAN PAY A BIT OF EXTRA MONEY, AND IT'S REALLY CHEAP, SO I THINK I'M GOING TO PAY FOR THAT.
OOH.
HELLO.
LOCAL: HI.
ADELA: MY NAME IS ADELA.
IT'S HOT IN THE BUS, HUH? LOCAL: IT'S REALLY HOT.
ADELA: NO AIR CON, EH? BOY: HEY, SISTER ADELA.
ADELA: YES.
BOY: WHAT'S THE MEANING OF YOUR NAME? ADELA: ADELA MEANS NOTHING, JUST A NAME.
BOY: JUST A NAME.
ADELA: JUST A NAME.
BOY: IT HAS NO MEANING? ADELA: NO MEANING.
BOY: THAT'S FINE.
ADELA: YEAH.
BOY: HERE WE GO.
OH! HOW ARE YOU DOING, BABY? HEY, YOU STOLE MY HAT.
HEY, BUT ONLY FOR THE TRIP.
I NEED IT LATER.
WHAT'S HER NAME AGAIN? MOTHER: SHE IS PRAISE GOD.
ADELA: PRAISE GOD.
IT'S A NICE BREEZE, HUH, PRAISE GOD? HELLO, HOW MUCH IS IT? WOMAN: 50.
ADELA: 50? WOMAN: 50.
ADELA: 50 NAIRA.
WOMAN: YES.
ADELA: OK, THANK YOU.
WOMAN: THANK YOU.
ADELA: BYE, BYE-BYE.
ANY BANANAS IN THE BACK? THE DRIVER WANTS A BANANA AS WELL? ANY BANANA? DRIVER: YEAH, YEAH, YEAH.
ADELA: OK, ANY BANANA? OK, THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
ONE LEFT.
THE ROADS IN NIGERIA ARE REALLY DANGEROUS, AND THERE ARE LOTS OF ACCIDENTS, SO LOCALS LIKE EVERY TRIP TO BE BLESSED BY A PRAYER.
WOMAN: THANK YOU, FATHER.
WE ASK, OH FATHER, YOU LEAD US SAFELY TO OUR DIFFERENT DESTINATIONS.
ADELA: FROM CALABAR, IT'S A HUNDRED MILES BY BUS TO IKOM, FROM WHERE I AM BEING GUIDED ONWARDS TO THE REMOTE AFI MOUNTAIN WILDLIFE SANCTUARY.
I AM MET AT IKOM BY DR.
ADENIYI EGBETADE, WHO IS CHIEF VET AT THE AFI MOUNTAIN DRILL RANCH.
THANK YOU.
BYE.
ADE: ADELA, ADE.
ADELA: HI, ADE.
NICE TO MEET YOU.
ADE: HOW WAS YOUR JOURNEY? ADELA: ADE LOOKS AFTER HUNDREDS OF EXTREMELY RARE DRILL MONKEYS AT AFI.
HE SAYS IT'LL TAKE ABOU AN HOUR OR SO TO GET THERE.
HOW FAR IS IT? ADE: IT'S ABOUT 7 KILOMETERS.
ADELA: 7 KILOMETERS, STILL? OH.
WITH NIGHTFALL LESS THAN AN HOUR AWAY, WE FINALLY ARRIVE.
ADE: YEAH, WE'RE HERE.
ADELA: HEY.
ADE: THANKS, GUYS.
WELCOME TO DRILL RANCH.
ADELA: THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
I'M EXHAUSTED, MAN.
ADE: YEAH, COME ON IN.
ADELA: WHILE ADE HEADS OFF TO CHECK UP ON THE DRILLS, I'M GOING TO CHECK OU THE JUNGLE CABIN WHERE I'M STAYING THE NIGHT.
THIS LOOKS LIKE A PRETTY LUXURIOUS CABIN FOR THE MIDDLE OF THE FOREST.
GREAT.
THEY HAVE 6 OF THESE, AND YOU CAN RENT THEM FOR THE NIGHT, AND THEY'RE ACTUALLY VERY CHEAP, SO IT'S A COOL PLACE TO STAY.
MMM.
IT'S EARLY MORNING, AND I'VE HAD A GREAT NIGHT'S SLEEP LISTENING TO THE SOUNDS OF THE JUNGLE.
THERE ARE 6 DRILL ENCLOSURES AT AFI, AND ADE IS TAKING ME TO GROUP TWO.
THE ENCLOSURES ARE EXTREMELY LARGE, SO THE DRILLS CAN FORAGE FOOD FOR THEMSELVES IN THE FOREST, BUT THEY CAN'T FIND AS MUCH FOOD AS WHEN THEY'RE ROAMING FREE, SO THEY'RE FED, TOO, TO SUPPLEMENT THEIR DIET.
HI, HOW ARE YOU? JAMES: WELCOME, I'M JAMES.
ADELA: THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
WOW! THEY ARE MASSIVE.
LOOK AT THAT.
I WASN'T EXPECTING THEM TO BE SO BIG.
WHY DOES HE HAVE A SCAR ON HIS FACE? JAMES: IN TERMS OF MOVING UP THE HIERARCHY, DRILLS WILL HAVE TO FIGHT EACH OTHER TO MOVE UP THE LADDER, AND IT'S A BIG SOCIAL GROUP, SO THEY ALWAYS HAVE TO FIGH EACH OTHER TO REMAIN IN CONTENTION, AND I THINK [INAUDIBLE.]
GOT CAUGHT FROM ANOTHER MALE DRILL.
LIKE YOU SEE, IT'S HIDDEN PRETTY WELL.
ADELA: SO HE LOST THE BATTLE, IN THIS CASE, RIGHT? ADE: WELL, THE BATTLE IS FOREVER, SO HE JUST LOS ONE OF THE BATTLES.
ADELA: AND WHAT'S THE BATTLE FOR? ADE: THE STRUGGLE IN MOST CASES IS FOR CONTROL OF THE GROUP, CONTROL OF THE FEMALES.
ADELA: OH.
ADE: THAT'S A FEMALE, YOU CAN SEE.
THAT'S A BABY.
ADELA: OH.
ADE: SHE'S JUST ABOUT JAMES, HOW OLD IS THAT BABY? JAMES: IT'S ABOU 2, 3 WEEKS OLD, THAT ONE.
ADE: OK.
ADELA: THE DRILL RANCH STARTED WITH JUST 5 DRILLS IN 1991, BUT HAVE SPREAD THEM SO SUCCESSFULLY THAT TODAY THERE ARE AROUND 300 DRILLS HERE.
IT'S A HUGE NUMBER GIVEN THAT DRILLS ARE EXTREMELY ENDANGERED AND THERE ARE THOUGHT TO BE ONLY AROUND 3,000 LEFT ALIVE IN THE WILD.
TO TRY TO ENSURE THE SURVIVAL OF THE SPECIES IN THE WILD, THE DRILL RANCH IS PREPARING TO RELEASE NEARLY 100 DRILLS SO THAT THEY CAN ROAM FREE IN THE FOREST.
ADE: WE'VE ESTABLISHED A PRE-RELEASE HEALTH SCREENING.
IT'S VERY, VERY IMPORTANT, BECAUSE WE DON'T WANT TO RELEASE THESE ANIMALS AT THE EXPENSE OF THE WILD DRILLS.
ADELA: AND HAVE ALL THESE ANIMALS BEEN SCREENED ALREADY? ADE: YEAH, 100% SCREENED FOR ALL THE RELEASE ANIMALS, EXCEPT THIS GUY OVER HERE IS AN ESCAPE ARTIST.
HE'S [INAUDIBLE.]
HAS GONE OUT OF ALL THE ENCLOSURES.
ADELA: OH, REALLY? ADE: AND WE JUST THINK HE'S WORKING FOR HIS FREEDOM.
WE FELT HE SHOULD BE PART OF THE RELEASE GROUP, IF HE PASSES THE MEDICAL FITNESS TEST.
ADELA: SO HE CAN EXAMINE THE DRILL, ADE FIRES A TRANQUILIZER DART.
IT'S IMPORTANT TO FIND OU WHETHER THE DRILL HAS GOT ANY DISEASES HE MAY HAVE CAUGH FROM HUMAN CONTACT WHICH MIGH INFECT THE WILD DRILLS IF AND WHEN HE'S RELEASED INTO THE WILD.
YOU CAN HEAR ITS BREATHING.
HUGE TEETH, MAN.
ADE: THIS IS PERFECT.
THE GUMS ARE GOOD.
.
1 MIL OF [INAUDIBLE.]
, JUST RIGHT ON THE EYELID.
SO, THAT'S THE TB TEST DONE, SO I'M GIVING THE TETANUS SHOT NOW.
I'M GOING TO TAKE OU SOME HAIR SAMPLES FOR DNA.
SOME DRIED-OUT BLOOD FROM THE FEMORAL VESSELS.
ADELA: THIS GUY IS TO BE RELEASED IN A MONTH OR TWO, RIGHT? ADE: YEAH.
ADELA: AND WHAT'S THE CHANCES OF HIM TO SURVIVE IN THE JUNGLE? ADE: THESE DRILLS ARE SOCIAL ANIMALS, SO HIS CHANCES WILL DEPEND ON HOW WELL HE FITS INTO THE GROUP, HOW WELL HE'S ABLE TO MASTER THE ENVIRONMENT.
SO YOU HAVE TO PLACE THE ANIMAL IN A GOOD RECOVERY POSITION.
NOW I CAN GIVE THE REVERSAL.
HE'S TWITCHING HIS TAIL.
ADELA: OOH, HEY, YOU'RE WAKING UP! AFTER ALL HIS EFFORTS TRYING TO ESCAPE FROM THE ENCLOSURE, I REALLY HOPE HE MAKES IT WHEN HE GETS RELEASED INTO THE WILD.
FROM AFI MOUNTAIN, I'M NOW HEADING TOWARDS THE MUSLIM NORTH OF NIGERIA.
EN ROUTE, I PLAY A FLYING VISIT TO NIGERIA'S CAPITAL CITY, ABUJA.
ABUJA REPLACED LAGOS AS NIGERIA'S CAPITAL IN 1991, AS LAGOS WAS GETTING FAR TOO CROWDED TO BE AN EFFECTIVE SEAT OF GOVERNMENT.
IT WAS ALSO FELT IMPORTANT TO MOVE THE CAPITAL TO THE CENTER OF NIGERIA TO TRY TO HEAL ETHNIC AND RELIGIOUS DIVISIONS BETWEEN THE CHRISTIAN SOUTH AND MUSLIM NORTH.
BEFORE IT WAS CHOSEN AS THE SIGHT OF NIGERIA'S NEW CAPITAL, ABUJA WAS JUST OPEN FIELDS.
AS A TOTALLY MODERN CITY DESIGNED FOR BUSINESSMEN AND BUREAUCRATS, THERE'S FRANKLY NOT MUCH OF INTEREST TO TRAVELERS HERE, BUT ABUJA IS A CONVENIENT GATEWAY TO THE FASCINATING NORTH, AND THAT'S WHERE I'M HEADING NOW.
FROM ABUJA, I'M TRAVELING 250 MILES NORTH TO THE LARGES CITY IN NORTHERN NIGERIA, KANO.
THE LANDSCAPE IS NOW CHANGING FAST.
IN CONTRAST TO THE LUSH SOUTH, MUSLIM NORTHERN NIGERIA IS MUCH DRYER AND EVEN HOTTER.
I ARRIVE IN KANO JUST BEFORE SUNSET AND HEAD THROUGH THE TRAFFIC TO A QUIET HILL IN THE CITY CENTER TO GET A FEELING FOR THE VERY DIFFERENT ATMOSPHERE UP HERE IN THE NORTH.
IT IS AMAZING TO BE UP HERE IN THE MIDDLE OF THIS MASSIVE CITY SURROUNDED BY ALL THESE PEOPLE, LISTENING TO THE CALL TO PRAYER ECHOING AROUND.
[PRAYER CALL.]
.
NEXT MORNING, AND I'M BEING TAKEN AROUND KANO BY LOCAL JOURNALIST AHMED ABUBAKAR.
HEADING TOWARDS THE OLD CITY, WE PASS ALONG THE ANCIENT CITY WALLS, WHICH STRETCH MORE THAN 10 MILES IN CIRCUMFERENCE.
AT THE SOUTHERN END OF THE TRANS-SAHARAN TRADE ROUTE, KANO HAS BEEN AN IMPORTANT TRADING CENTER FOR OVER 1,000 YEARS.
KANO MUST HAVE BEEN HUGE THEN.
AHMAD: FOR ALL THE SUB-SAHARAN COUNTRIES AND ALL OTHER AFRICAN COUNTRIES, THE EAST, THE WEST, THE SOUTH OF AFRICA THEY ALL COME TO KANO AS A CENTER FOR TRADE.
ADELA: IN THE PAST, TRADERS TRAVELED TO KANO ACROSS THE SAHARA BY CAMEL AND DESPITE THE ADVENT OF MODERN TRANSPORT, TODAY THE CAMEL MARKE HERE IS STILL GOING STRONG.
LOOK AT THAT.
AHMAD: YEAH.
ADELA: I'VE NEVER SEEN SO MANY IN MY LIFE.
AHMAD: IT'S ONE OF THE LARGEST CAMEL MARKETS THAT WE HAVE IN THE WHOLE COUNTRY.
ADELA: REALLY? AHMAD: IT HAS BEEN HERE FOR MORE THAN 1,000 YEARS.
ADELA: AND WHAT DO THEY USE THESE ANIMALS FOR NOW? AHMAD: THEY DON'T USE THEM FOR TRANSPORTATION NOW.
THERE'S A LOT OF BICYCLES, MOTORCYCLES, AND CARS.
ADELA: I GUESS IT'S EASIER.
AHMAD: SO NOW WE USUALLY SLAUGHTER THEM FOR MEAT.
ADELA: MEAT? AHMAD: FOR MEAT.
ADELA: HOW DOES IT TASTE LIKE? AHMAD: IT'S DELICIOUS.
ADELA: REALLY? AHMAD: YEAH, I LIKE THE MEAT.
HELLO.
[SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGAGE.]
YOU HAVE TO HOLD IT.
WHOA! JUST HOLD IT! HA-HA-HA! HOLD IT, HOLD IT, HOLD IT.
ADELA: YEAH, YEAH, YEAH, I WON'T LOSE IT.
NO PROBLEM.
IT'S OK.
I'M IN CONTROL.
AHMAD: BYE-BYE.
HOLD IT.
ADELA: IT'S GOOD FUN, MAN.
NEXT STOP ON MY TOUR OF KANO'S OLD CITY IS THE EMIR'S PALACE.
THE EMIR OF KANO IS ONE OF THE MOST INFLUENTIAL AND RESPECTED TRADITIONAL RULERS IN ALL OF NIGERIA.
EVERY FRIDAY MORNING, THE EMIR COMES OUT OF HIS PALACE TO RECEIVE HOMAGE FROM REPRESENTATIVES OF THE MILLIONS OF LOCAL PEOPLE WHO REVERE HIM.
SO THE EMIR IS VERY IMPORTANT FOR THESE PEOPLE.
AHMAD: VERY IMPORTANT.
VERY, VERY IMPORTANT FOR THE PEOPLE.
ADELA: YEAH.
AHMAD; THEY REGARD HIM AS A FATHER, AS THEIR KING.
ADELA: IT'S CONSIDERED RESPECTFUL FOR ALL VISITORS TO KANO TO PAY HOMAGE TO THE EMIR, BUT A VISIT IS ALWAYS BRIEF, BECAUSE ACCORDING TO TRADITION, THE EMIR NEVER SPEAKS AT HIS WEEKLY AUDIENCES.
IT'S TIME FOR AFTERNOON PRAYERS, AND KANO'S OLD CITY IS JAMMED WITH TENS OF THOUSANDS OF WORSHIPPERS HEADING TO JOIN THE EMIR IN PRAYER AT THE CENTRAL MOSQUE.
[PRAYER CALL.]
.
AND THERE HE IS.
OH, MY.
AHMAD: THERE HE IS.
[INAUDIBLE CHANTING OVER BULLHORN.]
ADELA: IT'S TIME TO MOVE ON TO MY FINAL DESTINATION.
I'M HEADING TO A FESTIVAL OUT IN THE REMOTE DESERT, AND HAPPILY FOR ME, THE AREA'S LOCAL EMIR HAS SEN HIS DRIVER TO PICK ME UP.
IT'S KIKI? KUKU: KUKU.
ADELA: KUKU, KUKU.
KUKU: K-U-K-U.
ADELA: K-U-K-U, KUKU.
AND ARE THERE GOING TO BE MANY PEOPLE IN THE FESTIVAL? [SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE.]
NICE FESTIVAL? KUKU: YES.
ADELA: YES? KUKU: YES.
ADELA: VERY NICE? KUKU: YES, VERY NICE.
ADELA: I'M SO EXCITED.
FROM KANO, IT'S MORE THAN 4 HOURS DRIVE ACROSS THE DESER TO THE REMOTE TOWN ON NIGERIA'S FAR NORTHERN BORDER WHERE THE FESTIVAL IS TAKING PLACE, MACHINA.
FINALLY, THIS IS MACHINA.
AS WE ARRIVE, THE FESTIVAL IS ALREADY IN FULL SWING, AND THERE'S A FANTASTIC ATMOSPHERE.
AND THIS IS THE BIGGES FESTIVAL OF THE YEAR? AHMAD: THIS IS THE BIGGEST FESTIVAL OF THE YEAR.
ADELA: EVERYBODY'S SO HAPPY.
AHMAD: EVERYBODY'S SO HAPPY.
THIS IS OUR NATURE.
THIS IS OUR LAND.
ADELA: THIS IS YOUR NATURE? AHMAD: YES.
[WHISTLE BLOWS.]
.
[CHEERS AND APPLAUSE.]
.
THIS IS LANGA.
ADELA: LANGA? AHMAD: YES, LANGA.
IF YOU FALL DOWN, YOU LOST THE GAME.
YOU CAN'T TOUCH THAT WHITE CHAIR.
SO THAT IS A WINNER.
ADELA: BYE! SEE YOU TOMORROW, BYE.
I'VE GOT TO SLEEP, BYE.
[ROOSTER CROWS.]
.
IT'S THE FINAL DAY OF MACHINA'S WEEKLONG FESTIVAL.
THE CLIMAX IS A DURBAR, A MAGNIFICENT CAVALRY PROCESSION LED BY THE EMIR, AND DIGNITARIES ARE ARRIVING FROM FAR AND WIDE FOR THE BIG EVENT.
OH, I'M THE ONLY FOREIGNER IN TOWN, AND APPARENTLY, THE EMIR WANTS TO MEET ME PERSONALLY.
HOW GOOD IS THAT? GOOD MORNING.
HOW ARE YOU? MAN: HOW ARE YOU? COME, COME ALONG, COME.
ADELA: OK, THANK YOU, THANK YOU.
HI.
EMIR: ADELA, YOU ARE WELCOME TO MACHINA, AND YOU ARE NOW GIVEN THE PRIVILEGE TO JOIN US ON THE DURBAR, WHICH WILL BE DONE VERY SHORTLY, AND I HOPE YOU'VE ENJOYED YOUR STAY HERE IN MACHINA, SO YOU'RE WELCOME.
ADELA: THANK YOU SO MUCH.
EMIR: THANK YOU.
ADELA: IT'S AN HONOR FOR ME.
THANK YOU.
WHEN LOCAL WARS WERE FOUGHT ON HORSEBACK, DURBARS WERE HELD EACH YEAR FOR A RULER'S FOLLOWERS TO SHOW THEIR READINESS FOR BATTLE.
TODAY MACHINA'S DURBAR IS PURELY CEREMONIAL, BUT IT CLIMAXES WITH A TRADITIONAL DISPLAY OF ALLEGIANCE IN FRONT OF THE PALACE.
I'M THE ONLY WOMAN TAKING PART.
IT'S SO RARE FOR A WOMAN TO RIDE IN A DURBAR IN MUSLIM NORTHERN NIGERIA THA THE EMIR'S INVITATION REALLY IS A HUGE HONOR.
I'M RIDING RIGH BEHIND THE EMIR, AND THIS IS A POSITION RESERVED ONLY TO HIS FAMILY, SO IT'S A HUGE PRIVILEGE FOR ME.
IT'S THE EXPERIENCE OF A LIFETIME.
IT'S AMAZING.
I'M FEELING LIKE THE QUEEN OF NIGERIA.
[CHEERING.]
.
[YELLING.]
.
THANK YOU, NIGERIA! TRAVELING THROUGH NIGERIA HASN'T ALWAYS BEEN EASY BY ANY MEANS, BUT THERE AREN'T MANY PLACES IN THE WORLD WHERE YOU CAN STILL FEEL LIKE YOU ARE DISCOVERING THE UNKNOWN.
THE FESTIVAL IS STILL GOING ON DOWN THERE IN THE VILLAGE, AND UP HERE, IT FEELS LIKE I'M COMPLETELY ALONE IN THE DESERT.
COME TO NIGERIA, AND DISCOVER IT FOR YOURSELF, AND YOU, TOO, WILL BE REWARDED WITH THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY EXPERIENCES.
WOMAN: STAY TUNED FOR A SPECIAL "GLOBE TREKKER" EXTRA.
ANNOUNCER: FUNDING FOR THIS PROGRAM IS PROVIDED BY SUBARU.
WOMAN: AT SUBARU, WE'RE BUILDING VEHICLES LIKE THE RUGGED OUTBACK, WITH SYMMETRICAL ALL-WHEEL DRIVE STANDARD AND PLENTY OF CARGO SPACE.
FOR THOSE WHO PACK EVEN MORE ADVENTURE INTO LIFE.
SUBARU, A PROUD SPONSOR OF "GLOBE TREKKER.
" MAN: YOU CAN FIND MORE ABOU THE SERIES ON OUR WEBSITE.
PROGRAMS FROM THE "GLOBE TREKKER" SERIES ARE AVAILABLE ON DVD AND NOW ON DEMAND FROM GLOBETREKKERCHANNEL.
TV MUSIC FROM THE SERIES IS AVAILABLE ON CD.
YOU CAN ALSO ORDER THE NEW "GLOBE TREKKER" ANNUAL FEATURING INFORMATION ON FESTIVALS, EVENTS, AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES.
TO ORDER "GLOBE TREKKER" PRODUCTS, CALL 888-565-0361, OR VISIT THE WEBSITE WWW.
GLOBETREKKERTV.
COM.
ZAY: MANDRILLS LIVE IN HUGE GROUPS, THE LARGEST GATHERINGS OF ANY NON-HUMAN PRIMATES.
BY LOCATING JUST ONE MANDRILL WITH A RADIO COLLAR, IT SHOULD BE POSSIBLE TO FIND THE ENTIRE GROUP.
[SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE.]
.
A BEARING OF 69 DEGREES REVEALS ONLY THE GENERAL DIRECTION OF THE MANDRILL GROUP.
TO LOCATE THEM MORE PRECISELY, IT'S NECESSARY TO GET A SECOND BEARING FROM ANOTHER LOCATION.
[SPEAKING FRENCH.]
.
ZAY: DRIVING AROUND THE EDGE OF THE GALLERY FORES IN THE DIRECTION THE MANDRILLS ARE HEADED, LEE THINKS THERE COULD BE UP TO 400 OR 500 IN THE GROUP.
HE'S HOPING TO SET UP A HIDE AT A GAP IN THE TREES, WHERE THE MANDRILLS WILL HAVE TO BRIEFLY CROSS OPEN SAVANNA, BUT UNFORTUNATELY, THE MANDRILLS ARE MOVING TOO FAS AND START CROSSING THE GAP BEFORE LEE CAN SET UP A PROPER HIDE, SO IT'S ONLY POSSIBLE TO GET A DISTANT VIEW OF THEM FROM A MAKESHIFT, TEMPORARY HIDE.
THE VAST MAJORITIES OF MANDRILLS IN THE GROUP ARE FEMALES OR THEIR OFFSPRING, AND THEY'RE THE ONLY ONES CLEARLY VISIBLE.
MOST OF THE FEW BRIGHTLY COLORED ADULT MALES IN THE GROUP MUST HAVE ALREADY CROSSED THE GAP EARLIER.
LEE: I THINK THEY KNEW THAT WE WERE IN THE VICINITY, BUT THEY'RE ALWAYS QUIET WHEN THEY CROSS A GAP LIKE THAT, BECAUSE, YOU KNOW, IT'S A LITTLE BIT DANGEROUS.
THERE MIGHT BE A LEOPARD HIDING OUT THERE OR A HUNTER.
ZAY: IT'S RARE TO BE ABLE TO SEE MANDRILLS IN THE WILD, EVEN FROM A DISTANCE, BU IT'S A SHAME THERE WERE NO BIG ADULT MALES TO BE SEEN CLEARLY.
TO ALLOW ONE LAS CHANCE OF SUCCESS, LEE HEADS MUCH FURTHER UP THE GALLERY FOREST IN ORDER TO HAVE ENOUGH TIME TO BUILD A PROPER HIDE.
LEE: THE FIRST PROBLEM, YOU REALLY HAVE TO CLOSE THE ROOF UP PROPERLY, OR THE VERY FIRS ONE THAT COMES THROUGH IN THE TREES GETS YOU.
ZAY: OVER 3 HOURS PASS IN THE CRAMPED HIDE WITHOUT ANY SIGN OF THE MANDRILLS.
JUST AS LEE IS ABOUT TO GIVE UP, THEY START COMING AT LAST.
LEE: THE YOUNGEST IS COMING THROUGH IN THE TREES IN THE BEGINNING.
I THINK THEY'RE LOOKING FOR PREDATORS.
ZAY: THE MANDRILLS HAVEN'T SPOTTED THE HIDE, AND SOON THE WHOLE TROUP STARTS TO PASS RIGHT IN FRONT.
THE MANDRILLS RANGE THROUGH THE FOREST AN AVERAGE OF AROUND 3 MILES A DAY, FEEDING ON FRUIT TREES AND FORAGING FOR INSECTS AND SEEDS ON THE FOREST FLOOR.
ALL OF A SUDDEN, THE FIRS ADULT MALE COMES INTO VIEW.
[LEE INAUDIBLE.]
.
LEE: THE MOS SPECTACULAR OF THE MAMMALS.
THEY'RE LIKE A MILLION PEACOCKS STRUTTING ALONG.
ZAY: ASTONISHINGLY, THE ADUL MALE MANDRILLS CAN BE UP TO 5 TIMES BIGGER THAN THE FEMALES.
THEY NEED TO BE STRONG SINCE THEY FIGHT FOR THE RIGH TO BREED WITH THE FEMALES.
LEE: THEY USE THEIR TEETH LIKE KNIVES, LIKE PAINTED GLADIATORS THAT FIGHT WITH DAGGERS.
THEY REALLY HAVE A TOUGH LIFE.
THEY DON'T LAST VERY LONG.
THEY MANAGE MAYBE 3 OR 4 BREEDING SEASONS, AND THEY GO OFF TO DIE.
DO NOT GO DOWN.
USUALLY, THE LAST ONE THROUGH IS A BIG MALE.
I GUESS THAT'S THE END OF IT, BUT I RECKON THAT WAS A GOOD 500.