Globe Trekker (1994) s17e02 Episode Script
Road Trip Ruta 40: Patagonia
1 WOMAN: AT SUBARU, WE BUILD VEHICLES LIKE THE RUGGED OUTBACK, WITH SYMMETRICAL ALL-WHEEL DRIVE AND PLENTY OF CARGO SPACE.
FOR THOSE WHO PACK EVEN MORE ADVENTURE INTO LIFE.
SUBARU, A PROUD SPONSOR OF "GLOBE TREKKER.
" ZAY HARDING: THIS IS PATAGONIA, THAT VAST EXPANSE OF LAND BETWEEN THE ANDES IN THE WES AND THE ATLANTIC OCEAN TO THE EAST.
COVERING ALMOST A THIRD OF ARGENTINA, IT'S ONE OF THE WORLD'S LAS TRUE WILDERNESSES AND I'M ABOUT TO TAKE A DRIVE ALL THE WAY DOWN THROUGH IT.
I'VE STOCKED UP ON FUEL, I'VE GOT A MAP, I'VE GOT MY TRUSTY 4X4 AND NOW IT'S TIME TO HIT THE ROAD.
READY FOR THE ROAD TRIP OF A LIFETIME THIS IS THE LEGENDARY ROUTE 40! ARGENTINA'S ROUTE 40 RUNS THE LENGTH OF THE COUNTRY FROM NORTH TO SOUTH AS IT TRACKS THE ANDES.
AT OVER 3,000 MILES, IT'S ONE OF THE LONGEST ROADS IN THE WORLD.
PREVIOUSLY I TRAVELED FROM THE BOLIVIAN BORDER TO MENDOZA.
IN THE CONCLUDING PART OF MY JOURNEY, I CONTINUE DRIVING SOUTH THROUGH PATAGONIA.
I START BY CLIMBING LANIN VOLCANO.
I THEN EXPLORE THE ARGENTINEAN LAKE DISTRICT, SEEK OUT BUTCH CASSIDY'S HIDEAWAY AND VISIT THE WELSH TOWN OF TREVELIN.
ENTERING SOUTHERN PATAGONIA, I EXPLORE THE CAVE OF THE HANDS AND ITS EARLY ROCK ART BEFORE TREKKING TO THE BASE OF MT.
FITZ ROY.
I COMPLETE MY JOURNEY BY DRIVING TO THE VERY END OF ROUTE 40 AT CABO VIRGENES.
PATAGONIA IS A VAST, SPARSELY POPULATED REGION.
HUMAN HABITATION BEGAN OVER 9,000 YEARS AGO BU IT WASN'T UNTIL THE 18TH CENTURY THAT EUROPEANS BEGAN TO SETTLE HERE AND FARM THE LAND.
NOWADAYS, PATAGONIA IS A MECCA FOR LOVERS OF THE GREAT OUTDOORS AND IS HOME TO SEVERAL WORLD-CLASS NATIONAL PARKS.
BUT DRIVING THROUGH THEM IS NOT ALWAYS EASY A LOT OF ROUTE 40 HERE IN PATAGONIA IS JUST GRAVEL ROADS.
IT'S TRICKY TO DRIVE ON AND I'M GONNA HAVE TO GET USED TO IT.
I KEEP FISH TAILING ON EVERY TURN SLIP-SLIDE.
AND IT'S NOT EVEN WET.
I BEGIN MY JOURNEY BY TAKING A SHORT DETOUR OFF ROUTE 40 TO LANIN NATIONAL PARK.
AND ALMOST IMMEDIATELY, I EXPERIENCE FIRST HAND HOW DANGEROUS THESE ROADS CAN BE WHOA, THIS CAR IS COMPLETELY OVERTURNED.
WOW, WE'LL JUST SEE IF THEY NEED ANY HELP.
STILL TRYING TO FIGURE OUT WHAT HAPPENED.
MAN: I WAS REALLY EASY.
TALKING WITH MY WIFE AND NEXT SECOND I HIT THE SIDE OF THE ROAD.
ZAY HARDING: AND YOU ENDED UP UPSIDE DOWN.
MAN: EXACTLY.
IT WAS QUITE AN EXPERIENCE REALLY.
THE TURN TOOK US BY SURPRISE REALLY.
ZAY HARDING: THE SHARP TURN RIGHT IN HERE.
MAN: YEAH, YEAH, YEAH AND THERE ARE MANY OTHERS IN THE ROAD TO THE LAKES BU THIS ONE WAS THE ONE FOR US.
ZAY HARDING: AND IT'S A GRAVEL ROAD SO WAS THE CAR SKIDDING? MAN: YES, YOU FEEL LIKE YOU ARE SLIDING ALL THE TIME.
SO YOU HAVE TO GO SLOWLY.
SECOND GEAR ALL THE TIME.
ZAY HARDING: ARE YOU GUYS OK? DID YOU GET HURT? MAN: NO, JUST THIS MINOR CUT.
ZAY HARDING: OK SO WE'RE JUST GOING TO TRY AND FLIP I BACK OVER AND HELP HIM GET BACK ON HIS FEET.
WOW, WHEN YOU LOOK A THE DENT HERE IN THE ROOF, THAT'S VERY CLOSE TO THEIR HEAD.
THAT COULD HAVE BEEN A LOT WORSE.
THE WINDSHIELD COULD HAVE BEEN SHATTERED.
THEY MAY THINK I WAS THEIR UNLUCKY DAY.
I SAY IT WAS THEIR LUCKY DAY.
COULD HAVE BEEN A LOT WORSE.
DRIVING CAREFULLY ON, I CONTINUE INTO THE HEART OF LANIN NATIONAL PARK AND MY FIRST STOP WHERE IT'S TIME TO SWAP MY CAR FOR MY TREKKING BOOTS.
PEOPLE COME HERE FOR TWO REASONS ONE TO EXPERIENCE NATURE AT ITS MOST UNTOUCHED.
AND TWO TO TAKE ON ITS BIGGEST CHALLENGE.
IT'S UP THERE VOLCANO LANIN.
THIS IS MY GUIDE, PATRICK.
HI, HOW ARE YOU.
3,776 METERS HIGH AND SNOW CAPPED YEAR ROUND, TREKS UP VOLCANO LANIN AREN'T TO BE TAKEN LIGHTLY AND A GUIDE IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
WHAT KIND OF TREES ARE THESE? PATRICK: THESE ARE CALLED AROCARIA.
ZAY HARDING: AROCARIA? PATRICK: AROCARIA, YOU CALL IT MONKEY PUZZLE.
ZAY HARDING: MONKEY PUZZLE.
CAUSE THE MONKEYS DON'T KNOW HOW TO GET UP.
PATRICK: YEAH, IT'S VERY TOUGH.
THEY NEED TO GROW NEAR VOLCANOS.
THEY USE THE ASHES FROM THE VOLCANO TO GROW UP AND THESE KINDS OF TREES, THEY GROW UP TO 80 METERS LONG AND 2 METERS WIDE WHEN THEY'RE FULL GROWN.
AND THEY LIVE ALMOST 1,000 YEARS OLD.
ZAY HARDING: SO THIS IS A YOUNG ONE.
PATRICK: YEAH, THIS IS VERY YOUNG.
PROBABLY 200 YEARS OLD.
AND THEY HAVE TO BE 800 OVER SEA LEVEL.
ZAY HARDING: OH, OK, SO THESE ARE THE PERFECT CONDITIONS FOR PATRICK: YEAH, THESE ARE THE PERFECT CONDITIONS OF THE WORLD.
ZAY HARDING: ANY MONKEYS AROUND HERE? PATRICK: NO! ZAY HARDING: FURTHER ALONG THE TRAIL AND THE FOREST ENDS ABRUPTLY.
PATRICK: WE'RE 1,250 METERS ABOVE SEA LEVEL.
ZAY HARDING: SO ONLY 2,500 METERS TO GO! WE'RE NOT GOING TO THE TOP-TOP TODAY.
PATRICK: NOT TODAY.
ZAY HARDING: OUR GOAL FOR TODAY IS A SHELTER A 2,300 METERS AND ITS TIME TO BEGIN OUR ASCENT.
[SIGHS.]
THAT'S KIND OF INTENSE.
JUST ONE STEP AT A TIME.
KEEP YOUR HEAD DOWN.
DOESN'T FEEL LIKE WE MADE MUCH PROGRESS BUT WE'RE GETTING A LITTLE CLOSER.
IS THIS HALFWAY THERE? PATRICK: ALMOST.
THIS IS THE END OF THE FISH SPINE MORAINE.
THE GLACIER WENT LIKE THIS IN THE MIDDLE OF BOTH MORAINE'S.
ZAY HARDING: WHAT IS A MORAINE? PATRICK: IMAGINE MY FOO IS A GLACIER GOING DOWN.
THESE ARE THE TWO MORAINES.
THE GLACIER IS GOING DOWN THIS WAY.
FROM HERE YOU CAN SEE, PERFECT, BOTH MORAINES GOING DOWN TO THE VALLEY.
.
THE GLACIER BACK THAT WAY, WE'RE GOING THERE NOW.
ZAY HARDING: WHAT ABOUT REST? YOU KNOW, WE JUST HIKED UP, LOOK AT ALL THIS WE JUST HIKED UP.
WE NEED TO BREATHE A LITTLE BIT.
PATRICK: LET'S GO.
ZAY HARDING: IT'S VERY, VERY NICE AND COOL AND DRY.
PATRICK: YEAH, IT'S PERFECT WEATHER.
COME ON.
ZAY HARDING: AS WE CLIMB HIGHER, OUR EFFORTS ARE REWARDED WITH A SPECTACULAR VIEW OF THE LAKES BELOW.
WOW, THAT IS SOMETHING.
PATRICK: THIS IS BEAUTIFUL.
THIS IS AN ARGENTINEAN LAKE, THIS A CHILEAN LAKE.
SO WE'RE JUST ON THE BORDERLINE.
ZAY HARDING: WHAT ARE THE RELATIONSHIPS BETWEEN THE TWO COUNTRIES? PATRICK: WE FIGHT EVERY METER OF THE BORDERLINE ALL ALONG THE COUNTRY.
ZAY HARDING: THIS IS THE BORDERLINE? PATRICK: THIS IS THE BORDERLINE.
LET'S GO FOR THE SUMMIT.
ZAY HARDING: AN HOUR LATER, WE FINALLY REACH OUR HOME FOR THE NIGHT.
PATRICK: SEE, THERE IS THE SHELTER.
ZAY HARDING: WHAT A GLORIOUS SIGHT! MOST PEOPLE CHOOSE TO REST UP HERE BEFORE TACKLING THE SUMMI EARLY THE NEXT MORNING.
AND FOR ACCOMMODATION THERE ARE A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT OPTIONS.
SO THIS HUT HERE IS QUITE NICE BECAUSE IT'S ALWAYS OPEN, ANYBODY CAN STAY HERE AND IT'S FREE.
BUT, THE PROBLEM IS, IT GETS A LITTLE NOISY IN THE MORNING AND CROWDED AT NIGHT CAUSE EVERYONE WANTS TO BE HERE.
SO, I'M GONNA RENT MY OWN LITTLE HUT.
I'M GOING TO STAY IN ONE OF THESE.
BECAUSE IT'S MY OWN, IT'S SLIGHTLY REMOVED AND IT'S ONLY 100 PESOS THAT'S A LITTLE OVER 10 BUCKS.
OH YEAH, SPACIOUS.
YOU CAN ALREADY FEEL THE HEAT COMING OUT.
I'M FEELING A BIT BEAT ACTUALLY.
THAT WAS A LO TOUGHER THAN I THOUGHT.
YOU LOOK AT IT AND THINK, "OH, OK, NOT TOO BAD.
" AND HALF-WAY, EVEN BETTER, WE'LL STOP UP THERE FOR THE NIGHT.
SO, WE'RE GOING TO GO TO BED EARLY AND GET UP EXTREMELY EARLY IN THE MORNING.
TO BE HONEST WITH YOU, I COULD LAY DOWN RIGHT NOW AND JUST PASS OUT.
AT THREE IN THE MORNING WE SET OFF AGAIN.
IT'S MOMENTS LIKE THIS I'M THANKFUL FOR MY GUIDE.
I HAVE NO IDEA WHERE I'M GOING, IT'S JUST ROCKS.
I CAN BARELY MAKE OUT THE ICE LAYER UP THERE.
SOON, WE HIT THE SNOW LINE AND IT'S TIME TO PUT ON OUR CRAMPONS AND TAKE OUT OUR ICE AXES.
PATRICK: IF YOU FALL DOWN, YOU GO LIKE THIS.
ZAY HARDING: AS THE FIRS RAYS OF SUNLIGHT APPEAR OVER THE HORIZON, THE VIEW THAT EMERGES IS INCREDIBLE.
WE'VE BEEN TREKKING FOR ABOUT FOUR HOURS NOW.
AND TO BE HONEST, THIS SUNRISE IS TOTALLY WORTH EVERY MINUTE OF IT.
AND THE VIEW, WOW.
WITH PATRICK SETTING THE PACE, WE SLOG ON FOR ANOTHER FOUR, LONG HOURS UNTIL THE SUMMIT IS WITHIN TOUCHING DISTANCE AREN'T YOU SICK OF DRAGGING ME ON THIS LEASH? PATRICK: THERE'S THE SUMMIT.
ZAY HARDING: THAT'S THE SUMMIT RIGHT THERE.
HE'S CUT THE LEASH.
PATRICK: YOU'RE A FREE MAN! ZAY HARDING: I'M A FREE MAN! OH MY GOD! LOOK AT THAT! I DID IT! WHAT'S UP CHILE, WHAT'S UP ARGENTINA! WHO'S THE KING OF THE MOUNTAIN NOW! THAT'S RIGHT, TAKE IT IN! I'M ON TOP! I'M CONTINUING MY JOURNEY BY DRIVING DOWN ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL ROADS IN THE COUNTRY.
THIS IS ARGENTINA'S LAKE DISTRICT.
IT'S A BEAUTIFUL DRIVE.
VIRTUALLY AROUND EVERY CORNER THERE'S ANOTHER FANTASTIC VIEW TO TAKE IN.
FROM SAN MARTIN DE LOS ANDES, THE SEVEN LAKES DRIVE WINDS ITS WAY TO BARILOCHE WHERE IT JOINS ROUTE 40.
ON THE SHORES ON LAKE NAHUEL HUAPI, BARILOCHE WOULDN'T FEEL OUT OF PLACE IN THE ALPS.
IN FACT, THE FIRST SETTLERS IN THE EARLY TWENTIETH CENTURY WERE SWISS, GERMAN AND ITALIAN.
THIS AREA IS OFTEN CALLED LITTLE SWITZERLAND.
IT'S GOT ALPINE ARCHITECTURE, FONDUE RESTAURANTS, IT'S EVEN GOT ST.
BERNARD DOGS YOU CAN TAKE YOUR PHOTO WITH.
HELLO THERE.
HARDLY FEELS LIKE SOUTH AMERICA DOES IT? DOGS ASIDE, THERE'S SOMETHING ELSE THE TOWN IS RENOWNED FOR.
CHOCOLATE.
SERIOUSLY, THERE'S A CHOCOLATE SHOP ON EVERY CORNER EACH WITH ITS OWN PERSONALITY.
IT'S LIKE THE WHOLE TOWN HAS BEEN BUILT OUT OF CHOCOLATE THIS ONE'S CALLED MAMUSHKA.
MAN: HELLO ZAY, WELCOME TO MAMUSHKA.
ZAY HARDING: THANK YOU, I HEAR YOU GUYS ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR PUTTING THE "MM" IN CHOCOLATE.
MAN: THAT'S RIGHT.
ZAY HARDING: WHY IS THIS TOWN SYNONYMOUS WITH CHOCOLATE? MAN: BECAUSE OF THE IMMIGRATION FROM ITALY AND SWITZERLAND AND WE HAVE A REALLY NICE CHOCOLATE CULTURE HERE IN BARILOCHE.
ZAY HARDING: AND WHA MAKES YOUR CHOCOLATE SO GOOD? MAN: BECAUSE OF THE QUALITY OF THE INGREDIENTS.
WE USE THE BES INGREDIENTS IN THE WORLD.
OUR CACAO IS FROM COLOMBIA, ECUADOR.
I WOULD RECOMMEND THE TIMBAL, DULCE DE LECHE.
OUR MOST FAMOUS CHOCOLATES.
THERE'S LAYERS OF CHOCOLATE AND DULCE DE LECHE.
ZAY HARDING: LAYERS OF CHOCOLATE.
SO IT'S LIKE A LASAGNA OF CHOCOLATE.
MAN: THAT'S RIGHT.
MAY I ASK FOR A TIMBAL? ZAY HARDING: WERE YOU SNEAKING ANY IN TODAY? THANK YOU.
YOU CAN SEE THE LAYERS.
OH MAN.
PART OF THE FUN IS BITING INTO IT GOES, "CHUNK, CHUNK, CHUNK.
" MAN: IT'S GOOD.
ZAY HARDING: THAT'S PRETTY FANTASTIC.
I'M GOING TO DO SOME SHOPPING AND HEAD ON OUT.
MAN: THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
ZAY HARDING: I'LL HAVE A COUPLE OF THOSE, LET'S TRY A COUPLE OF THOSE OOH, ONE OF THOSE.
AND PICK YOUR FAVORITE CHOICE, JUST THROW IN SOME EXTRA STUFF.
I CAME IN HERE WONDERING WHY THE WORLD CAN'T GET ENOUGH OF THIS CHOCOLATE.
NOW I CAN'T GE ENOUGH OF THIS CHOCOLATE.
I'LL COME BACK FOR THE REST LATER.
IS IT NIGHTTIME ALL READY? HOW LONG WAS I IN THERE? WHAT DAY IS IT, TWO DAYS LATER? MOST PEOPLE COME TO BARILOCHE NOT FOR THE CHOCOLATE SHOPS BUT TO HIT THE GREA OUTDOORS AND THE TOWN HAS A RICH CLIMBING HERITAGE.
BARILOCHE WAS PUT FIRMLY ON THE MAP AS AN OUTDOOR SPORTS DESTINATION BY A GERMAN BORN MOUNTAINEER WITH A TASTE FOR ADVENTURE.
HIS NAME WAS OTTO MEILING, HE MOVED HERE IN 1930, BUILT HIS HOUSE JUS THERE ON THAT HILL, BEGAN TEACHING THE THEN NEW SPORT OF SKIING AND MADE A NUMBER OF FIRST ASCENTS OF THE SURROUNDING MOUNTAINS.
IN 1931 HE ESTABLISHED A MOUNTAINEERING CLUB CALLED THE CLUB ANDINO DE BARILOCHE, STILL HERE TODAY.
BUT THE CLUB HAS A DARK PAST AFTER THE SECOND WORLD WAR, IT BECAME A MEETING POIN FOR NAZIS FLEEING GERMANY.
ONE OF THEIR MEMBERS, ERIC PRIEBKE, WAS RESPONSIBLE FOR THE MURDER OF 330 ITALIAN CIVILIANS.
JOURNALIST, ABEL BASTI WAS AT HIS HOUSE WHEN HE WAS ARRESTED IN 1994.
ABEL BASTI: WHEN THE POLICE ARRIVED HE SALUTED LIKE IN A MILITARY WAY AND SAID I'M READY TO BE ARRESTED.
ZAY HARDING: WOW, SO HE'D PROBABLY BEEN PREPARING FOR THIS MOMENT FOR YEARS.
ABEL BASTI: IT WAS LIKE IN HE WAS AGAIN IN THE SECOND WORLD WAR AND HAD HIS ENEMIES IN FRONT OF HIM AND HE WAS BEING CAPTURED.
ZAY HARDING: DID HE SHOW ANY REMORSE? ABEL BASTI: WHEN I ASKED HIM IF HE REGRETTED IT HE JUST NODDED AS IF TO SAY YES BUT COULDN'T SAY IT.
ZAY HARDING: PRIEBKE WAS EXTRADITED TO ITALY, TRIED AND PLACED UNDER HOUSE ARREST.
HE DIED IN 2013 AT THE AGE OF 100 FROM NATURAL CAUSES.
I'M LEAVING SAN CARLOS DE BARILOCHE, MAKING THE SHORT JOURNEY ALONG ROUTE 40 TO EL BOLSON OVER THE YEARS, EL BOLSON HAS BECOME A HAVEN FOR THOSE SEEKING TO ESCAPE THE RAT RACE.
AND HIDDEN AWAY IN THE FORESTS AROUND THE TOWN ARE SOME BASIC LODGES OR REFUGIOS WHICH ALLOW TRAVELERS TO GET BACK TO NATURE.
HOLA, SEÃOR.
DONDE ESTA LA CONFLUENCIA? MAN: LA CONFLUENCIA? ZAY HARDING: SI.
MAN: ES CAMINO.
[SPEAKING INAUDIBLE SPANISH.]
ZAY HARDING: WE'RE ON THE RIGH TRACK, JUST FEELS WEIRD.
I'M HEADING TO A LODGE CALLED LA CONFLUENCIA AND I'M GLAD I'VE GOT A 4X4 ALRIGHT, WHA HAPPENED TO MY ROAD? OH, THERE IT IS, ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE STREAM.
NICE LITTLE GARDEN.
VERY WELCOMING, SMOKE COMING ON.
WELL OFF THE BEATEN TRACK, LA CONFLUENCIA IS THE PERFECT ECO-HIDEAWAY.
IT'S THE BRAINCHILD OF AMERICAN EXPAT, MARK JORDAN.
MARK JORDAN: LOOKS LIKE YOU'RE JUST IN TIME FOR DINNER.
ZAY HARDING: TIMED THAT RIGHT.
WOW, THIS IS GREAT, LOOK AT THIS! MARK JORDAN: THE CONCEP BASICALLY WAS, IN A SENSE, AN UPGRADED REFUGIO.
ZAY HARDING: OK, LIKE THOSE HUTS YOU FIND WALKING UP THE MOUNTAIN WHEN YOU'RE CLIMBING.
MARK JORDAN: YEAH, EXACTLY.
SO OUR THOUGHT WAS TO CREATE A BASE CAMP FOR EXPLORING THE BACK COUNTRY HERE.
OK, I'M GOING TO SHOW YOU TO THE ROOM HERE.
LIKE I TOLD YOU.
THEY'RE INTENTIONALLY SMALL.
ZAY HARDING: IT'S CUTE.
MARK JORDAN: THE INTENTION IS TO ENCOURAGE PEOPLE TO SPEND TIME OUT OF THE ROOM, DOWNSTAIRS IN THE COMMUNAL AREAS.
ZAY HARDING: COME DOWN, SLEEP HERE.
MARK JORDAN: BUT RATHER THAN A SLEEPING BAG UP IN THE REFUGIOS, WE GIVE YOU A MATTRESS.
HAVE A LOOK OUTDOORS.
ZAY HARDING: NICE DECK, SUCH A GREAT PLACE.
WHOA, THAT'S DEEP.
MARK JORDAN: THAT RIVER'S THE SOURCE OF OUR DRINKING WATER, SHOWER WATER AND ELECTRICITY TOO.
ZAY HARDING: SO HOW DID YOU END UP HERE IN EL BOLSON? MARK JORDAN: WELL, YOU KNOW, MY WIFE AND I WERE TRAVELING, PRETTY MUCH, YOU KNOW, LIKE YOURSELF MAYBE 20 YEARS AGO AND WE LIKED THE AREA.
YOU KNOW, A WEEK BECOMES A MONTH, BECOMES A YEAR.
ZAY HARDING: YOU DIDN' INTEND TO STAY THAT LONG? MARK JORDAN: NO, WE REALLY DIDN'T.
ZAY HARDING: AND YOU CAN JUST DO WHATEVER YOU WANT.
MARK JORDAN: WELL THAT'S THE THING THAT DREW US TO ARGENTINA.
A LOT OF OUR FRIENDS HERE IN THE AREA, WERE ALL BASICALLY IMMIGRANTS REALLY.
EITHER EUROPEAN OR NORTH AMERICAN.
AND ONE OF THE ATTRACTIONS WE ALL FOUND TO THIS PARTICULAR AREA IS THAT YOU COULD DO PRETTY MUCH AS YOU PLEASED.
ZAY HARDING: WHEN YOU GOT HERE THIS PLACE WAS ALL LIKE, HIPPIES HANGING OUT? MARK JORDAN: YES IT WAS LIKE BIG SUR.
ZAY HARDING: IT WAS FAR OUT! FAR OUT DUDE.
THE NEXT DAY I HEAD INTO TOWN TO EXPLORE EL BOLSON ITSELF.
EL BOLSON WAS ESTABLISHED BY HIPPIES IN THE 60'S AND ALTHOUGH IT'S NO LONGER THE SEAT OF COUNTER CULTURE IT ONCE WAS, IT STILL RETAINS SOME OF THAT BOHEMIAN SPIRIT.
AND ONE OF THE BEST PLACES TO FEEL THAT IS TO COME TO THE LOCAL MARKET WHICH IS HELD THREE TIMES A WEEK RIGHT HERE IN THE TOWN CENTER.
MAN: WE WERE PART OF A BIG IMMIGRATION OF PSEUDO-HIPPIES FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD LOOKING FOR A GOOD PLACE TO BE CLOSE TO NATURE AND TO GET AWAY FROM THE RAT RACE.
PEOPLE WHO MOVE HERE STILL TRY TO BE AS FAITHFUL AS THEY CAN TO THE ORIGINAL IDEA.
ZAY HARDING: IT'S NO SECRE TO THE PEOPLE THAT LIVE HERE THAT THE WOODS SURROUNDING THE TOWN ARE INHABITED BY ELVES.
AND ALL AROUND THE MARKE YOU'LL SEE LOTS OF LITTLE KIOSKS SELLING ELF LIKE PRODUCTS.
HOLA, THIS ONE HERE LOOKS LIKE YOU'VE GOT LOTS OF ELVES.
WHAT IS THE PURPOSE, LIKE, WHY DO PEOPLE BUY THEM? ELF MAN: PEOPLE USE THEM AS A PROTECTOR.
ZAY HARDING: HOW DO YOU CHOOSE ONE? ELF MAN: YOU HAVE TO LOOK AT THEM AND HE CHOOSES YOU.
ZAY HARDING: IT CHOOSES ME.
LET'S SEE THIS ONE HERE.
ELF MAN: GO ON, TAKE IT.
ZAY HARDING: THAT'S PRETTY COOL RIGHT.
WHAT IS THE SIGNIFICANCE OF THIS ONE? ELF MAN: THEY ARE ANGRY BECAUSE THEY ARE AGAINST HUMANITY DESTROYING THE FOREST.
THEY ARE HERE IN EL BOLSON BECAUSE WE HAVE MORE FORES AND IT'S QUIETER.
ZAY HARDING: SO HE'S A NATURALIST AND HE'S TELLING US SOMETHING, HE'S SAYING, "MAN IS DESTROYING NATURE TOO FAST.
AND MUST STOP DESTROYING NATURE.
" DOES HE HAVE A NAME? ELF MAN: YOU HAVE TO CHOOSE A NAME OR A NICKNAME.
ZAY HARDING: THE NAME CHOOSES YOU AS WELL.
I'M GOING TO CALL THIS ONE IAN.
SO, EVERYBODY LISTEN TO IAN, HE HAS SOMETHING TO SAY.
STOP DESTROYING NATURE! I'LL TAKE HIM WITH ME.
HE'S GOING TO PROTECT ME.
KNOW THAT HE'S IN GOOD HANDS.
MUCHAS GRACIAS Y BUENA SUERTE PARA TI.
BEING AT ONE WITH THE ENVIRONMENT IS INTEGRAL TO THE SPIRIT OF EL BOLSON.
AND A TWO HOUR WALK THROUGH THE FORESTS ABOVE TOWN IS ONE OF THE ITS MOS ENCHANTING LOCATIONS EL BOSQUE TALLADO OR THE CARVED FOREST.
THE PROJECT CAME TO LIFE IN 1986 WHEN A GROUP OF ARTISTS BEGAN CARVING THEIR CREATIONS FROM THE REMAINS OF A FORES DEVASTATED BY FIRE.
THERE ARE NOW OVER 50 SCULPTURES HIDDEN AWAY AMONGST THE TREES.
I LOVE THIS ONE.
IT'S LIKE AN ELF CLIMBING OUT OF A TREE.
THIS ONE'S DONE IN A BAS RELIEF STYLE.
SO IT'S ACTUALLY WITHIN THE TREE ITSELF.
BUT THEY'VE CARVED THIS PART OF IT TO LOOK LIKE IT'S CLIMBING OUT.
IT'S WILD.
KIND OF MAGICAL.
I LOVE HOW THE ARTISTS INCORPORATE WHATEVER THEY'RE GIVEN.
THIS HAS A KNOT FROM THE BRANCH IN THE TREE.
THEY JUST USE IT AS THE EYE AND IT TOTALLY WORKS.
IT'S ANOTHER TWO HOUR WALK BACK TO EL BOLSON BUT FOR THE BRAVE OR FOOLHARDY THERE'S A MUCH QUICKER WAY DOWN STARTING TO GET NERVOUS PABLO: YOU FOLLOW MY INSTRUCTIONS.
EYE OF THE TIGER.
[GROWLING.]
.
ZAY HARDING: HERE WE GO.
HERE WE GO! HERE WE GO! OH MY GOD! THIS IS INCREDIBLE, I LOVE IT! WOW, SO WE'RE ACTUALLY GOING UP! WITH STRONG THERMALS MOST AFTERNOONS, EL BOLSON IS ONE OF THE BEST PLACES IN THE WORLD TO PARAGLIDE.
WOW! WHAT DO I DO, WHAT DO I DO, WHAT DO I DO?! OW, RIGHT ON THE THORNS! THAT WAS FANTASTIC! OH, SO MUCH BETTER THAN CLIMBING DOWN THE MOUNTAIN! PABLO: CONGRATULATIONS! ZAY HARDING: THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
THAT WAS WONDERFUL, WONDERFUL.
FROM HERE ON OUT THE DISTANCES BETWEEN TOWNS INCREASES SUBSTANTIALLY.
SO TO ENCOURAGE EXPANSION INTO PATAGONIA, SOUTH OF THE 42 DEGREE LATITUDE LINE, THE GOVERNMENT SUBSIDIZES FUEL BY UP TO 30%.
I GET TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THA AND JUDGING BY THE LONG LINES, SO DOES EVERYBODY ELSE.
ARMED WITH A FULL TANK, I'M ENTERING THE STATE OF CHUBUT.
OVER THE NEXT 200 MILES, I'M MAKING TWO DETOURS FROM ROUTE 40.
FIRST, I SEEK OU BUTCH CASSIDY'S HIDEOU AT CHOLILA I THEN EXPLORE THE WELSH TOWN OF TREVELIN.
AS I GO DEEPER INTO CHUBUT, THE LANDSCAPE BECOMES MORE BARREN AND THE ROADS QUIETER.
BEFORE ROUTE 40 EXISTED, THIS PART OF PATAGONIA WAS EXTREMELY ISOLATED, OVERLOOKED BY THE REST OF THE COUNTRY.
BUT THIS MADE IT THE PERFECT PLACE TO DISAPPEAR.
IN 1901, TWO OF THE WORLD'S MOST NOTORIOUS GANGSTERS FLED HERE TO ESCAPE THE LAW.
THEY WERE BUTCH CASSIDY AND THE SUNDANCE KID.
YOU CAN SEE WHY THEY CHOSE TO HIDE OUT HERE IN CHOLILA.
THE LAKES AND MOUNTAINS REALLY DO RESEMBLE UTAH.
THEY WOULD HAVE FELT RIGHT AT HOME.
FLEEING FROM THE SCENE OF THEIR LATEST TRAIN ROBBERY WITH $2.
5 MILLION IN THEIR POCKETS, THEY SETTLED HERE IN THE PATAGONIAN WILDERNESS.
IT'S SO REAL, IT'S WEIRD.
ON THEIR 15,000 ACRE RANCH THEY REARED CATTLE AND SOON BECAME PART OF THE LOCAL COMMUNITY.
HISTORIAN JUAN MOTOMALA IS AN EXPERT ON THEIR TIME IN ARGENTINA.
JUAN MOTOMALA: THIS IS THE ORIGINAL HOUSE THA BUTCH CASSIDY AND THE SUNDANCE KID BUILT IN CHOLILA IN 1901.
THEY ESTABLISHED A FARMING COMMUNITY WITH LOTS OF LAND AND NOBODY KNEW THEIR PAST.
THEY CHANGED THEIR NAMES.
THEY WEREN'T BUTCH OR SUNDANCE THEY WERE ENRIQUE PLACE AND JAMES RYAN.
IN THIS WAY NOBODY KNEW THEM.
ZAY HARDING: BUT AFTER FIVE YEARS THEY WERE TRACKED DOWN.
JUAN MOTOMALA: THEY SOLD UP EVERYTHING AND FLED TO CHILE AND THEN TO BOLIVIA WHERE THEY DIED, PEOPLE SAY THEY DIED.
ZAY HARDING: SO WHO WERE THEY TO YOU, WERE THEY HONEST MEN OR WERE THEY OUTLAW CRIMINALS? JUAN MOTOMALA: THEY HAVE A SPECIFIC PERSONALITY.
THEY'VE NEVER KILLED ANYONE.
SO THEY ROBBED WITH GOOD METHODS AND DID IT WITH A SMILE BUT THE MONEY THAT THEY STOLE.
IT'S NOT TRUE THEY STOLE FROM THE RICH TO GIVE TO THE POOR.
AND THIS IS THE REASON THEY HAVE SO MUCH MONEY.
ZAY HARDING: IT'S HARD NO TO GET EXCITED TO THINK THA I'M IN ACTUAL LIVING QUARTERS OF THESE GLORIFIED GANGSTERS KNOWN THROUGHOUT THE WORLD.
GOT THE GUEST BEDROOM THERE.
SUNDANCE'S ACTUAL BEDROOM, RIGHT HERE, BUTCH CASSIDY'S ACTUAL BEDROOM RIGHT THERE, THE DINING ROOM.
AND WHILE NONE OF THEIR ORIGINAL OBJECTS ARE STILL HERE IN THE HOUSE, YOU DO HAVE THIS ORIGINAL CONTRAPTION TO HINGE, LOCK AND OPEN THE DOOR.
AND YOU'VE GOT A RIFLE HOLE HERE YOU CAN STICK IT OU AND KEEP FROM BEING SEEN WHILE THEY'RE PROTECTING THEMSELVES.
AND I'M STARTING TO THINK THAT MAYBE SOME OF THEIR BOUNTY IS HIDDEN WITHIN THESE QUARTERS.
BUT WHERE, WHERE'S THE REST OF THEIR MONEY?! IT WASN'T JUST NOTORIOUS BANDITS LIKE BUTCH CASSIDY AND THE SUNDANCE KID WHO CHOSE TO MAKE THIS PART OF PATAGONIA THEIR HOME.
BACK ON ROUTE 40, I'M CONTINUING MY JOURNEY SOUTH BEFORE MAKING A SHOR DETOUR TO TREVELIN A TOWN FOUNDED BY THE WELSH 130 YEARS AGO.
FIVE HOURS LATER, I REACH MY DESTINATION.
AH, MADE IT, TREVELIN.
FEEL LIKE I'VE BEEN "TREVELIN" ALL DAY LONG.
TREVELIN WAS ESTABLISHED IN 1885 BY A SMALL PARTY OF WELSH IMMIGRANTS WHO MADE THE LONG AND ARDUOUS JOURNEY FROM THEIR HOMELAND, SEEKING TO ESCAPE OPPRESSION IN THE TOWN'S MUSEUM, I'M MEETING MARIA EVANS, A DESCENDANT OF THOSE BRAVE PIONEERS.
IN YOUR FAMILY, WHICH RELATIVES WERE THE FIRS TO COME HERE? YOUR GRAND PARENTS, YOUR GREAT GRAND PARENTS? MARIA EVANS: MY GREAT GRANDPARENTS.
ZAY HARDING: YOUR GREA GRAND PARENTS WERE SOME OF THE FOUNDING FATHERS OF THIS LITTLE TOWN.
MARIA EVANS: YES.
ZAY HARDING: THEY LANDED ON THE ATLANTIC COAST.
HOW DID THEY END UP HERE IN PATAGONIA? MARIA EVANS: BECAUSE INDIANS, THEY HAD VERY GOOD TRADE WITH THE INDIANS.
AND THEY WERE ALWAYS TELLING THEM THAT BY THE WES OF THIS COUNTRY THERE WERE MOUNTAINS AND RIVERS AND TREES AND FORESTS.
ZAY HARDING: LIKE A MYTHICAL PLACE THEY COULD COME TO AND EVERYTHING THEY WANT WOULD BE HERE.
MARIA EVANS: EXACTLY, MORE LIKE WALES.
BECAUSE THIS PLACE IS LIKE WALES.
IT TOOK ABOUT 20 YEARS TO ARRIVE AT LAST.
ZAY HARDING: LEARNING HOW TO FARM THE LAND FROM THE INDIANS, THEIR COMMUNITY SOON BEGAN TO PROSPER.
AND BEING STRICT PROTESTANTS, ONE OF THEIR FIRS ACTS WAS TO BUILD A CHAPEL, WHICH IS STILL HERE TODAY.
HOW DID THEY MANAGE TO PRESERVE THEIR LANGUAGE SO LONG? YOU WALK AROUND TOWN, THEY'RE STILL SPEAKING WELSH.
THIS IS IN A FOREIGN LAND.
MARIA EVANS: BECAUSE THEY CAME TO THE CHAPEL TO LEARN WELSH.
AND TO PRACTICE THEIR RELIGION AS WELL.
ZAY HARDING: THEY LEARNED WELSH IN THE CHAPEL? MARIA EVANS: YES, THEY DID.
THE CHAPEL WAS THE CENTER OF THE CULTURAL ACTIVITIES OF THE VALLEY.
ZAY HARDING: WAS IT LIKE BACK HOME WHERE YOU DRESS UP FOR CHURCH OR WAS IT VERY CASUAL? MARIA EVANS: THEY WOULD DRESS UP NICE.
VERY NICE PARTY TO COME.
YES OF COURSE.
ZAY HARDING: BEFORE I LEAVE, MARIA AGREES TO PLAY ME A TRADITIONAL WELSH HYMN THIS IS AMAZING.
THE WELSH CAME HERE OVER 150 YEARS AGO AND YE RIGHT IN HERE I FEEL LIKE I'M IN WALES WITH A PATAGONIAN BACKDROP.
NOWADAYS, THE DESCENDANTS OF THOSE EARLY PIONEERS HAVE BECOME TRULY INTEGRATED INTO ARGENTINA AND MANY HAVE BECOME SUCCESSFUL FARMERS.
I'M TRAVELING TO AN ESTANCIA AN HOUR'S DRIVE OUT OF TOWN TO MEET MARIA'S SON, A WELSH GAUCHO.
STARTING TO SEE A FEW CATTLE ON THE SIDE OF THE ROADS.
THIS IS WHERE ALL THE GAUCHOS KEEP THEIR CATTLE DURING THE SUMMER.
THE HIGHLANDS OF TREVELIN.
THE FIRST GAUCHOS WERE DESCENDANTS OF SPANIARDS AND NATIVE PEOPLES AND ARE RENOWNED FOR THEIR SKILLED HORSEMANSHIP.
WHEN THE WELSH ARRIVED, THEY TAUGHT THEM THE TECHNIQUES OF TENDING CATTLE.
AND NOW IT'S MY TURN TO BE TAUGHT THE SKILLS HE GOT HIM.
THAT'S AWESOME.
HE'S A FIGHTER.
ALEJANDRO: HI, HELLO, HOW ARE YOU.
ZAY HARDING: I'M ZAY.
ALEX: SO YOU WAN TO BE A GAUCHO.
ZAY HARDING: I'D LOVE TO BE A GAUCHO.
TIME FOR MY FIRST LESSON.
HOW TO LASSO ALEJANDRO: OK, WANT SOME HELP? ZAY HARDING: BUT LASSOING FORM A HORSE TAKES YEARS TO MASTER AND I DON' FANCY MY CHANCES.
ALEJANDRO: USE THIS WITH ONE HAND ZAY HARDING: AND LASSO WITH THE OTHER.
ALEJANDRO: YOU CAN TRY FIRST.
ZAY HARDING: DON'T GET SCARED.
OK, SO, I'M GOING FOR A LITTLE GUY, RIGHT? OH, I'M DOING I FOR HERE, RIGHT HERE.
OH, OKAY.
ALEJANDRO: I DON'T BELIEVE YOU! ZAY HARDING: OK, LET GO, LET GO, LET GO, LET GO.
BEGINNERS LUCK.
ALEJANDRO: YOU ARE GOING TO TAKE MY JOB.
ZAY HARDING: I LOVE THE FEELING OF WHAT IT FEELS LIKE TO WRANGLE A LITTLE CALF.
THAT SOUNDS HORRIBLE, DOESN'T IT? NOW I'VE CAUGHT THE CALF, THE NEXT STEP IS TO LEARN HOW TO HOLD IT DOWN.
ALEJANDRO: YOU SEE IT KICKING.
ZAY HARDING: YEP, HE SURE IS! KIND OF BRUTAL BUT YOU ALSO DON'T WANT HIM TO BE IN CHARGE.
GOT TO SHOW HIM WHO'S BOSS.
ALEJANDRO: WANT TO TRY TAKE IT DOWN? ZAY HARDING: 1, 2, 3.
[GRUNTS.]
.
OH, HE GOT ME GOOD.
ALEJANDRO: THE TWO OF US? YOU HERE.
ZAY HARDING: 1, 2, 3.
GIVE ME A TAIL.
ALRIGHT, GO PLAY.
DOES THAT MEAN I GET THE JOB? ALRIGHT, I WEAR THE TROPHY.
I'M A GAUCHO.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH, THAN YOU VERY MUCH! MY NEXT SHOW WILL BE IN ONE HOUR.
AFTER A HARD DAY'S WORK, IT'S TIME TO EAT GAUCHO STYLE.
JUST CARVE IT OFF.
WHAT TYPE OF BEEF IS THIS? ALEX: BEEF, THAT'S A GAUCHO FOOD.
BEEF AND MATE.
ZAY HARDING: I CAN LIVE WITH THAT.
ALEX: ME TOO.
ZAY HARDING: AND WINE? ALEX: WINE, OF COURSE.
THIS IS A VERY POPULAR WELSH SONG.
THE NAME IS CALON LAN.
[SONG PLAYING, "CALON LAN".]
.
[SINGING IN WELSH.]
.
ZAY HARDING: WHA A BEAUTIFUL SONG.
AND HOW COOL THA IT'S SO TRADITIONAL.
I DIDN'T EXPECT YOU TO COME UP WITH A WELSH SONG.
I WAS ACTUALLY THINKING, YOU'RE THE GAUCHO YOU'RE GOING TO COME UP WITH THIS, YOU KNOW ALEJANDRO: WHEN THE FIRS PEOPLE FROM WALES CAME TO PATAGONIA THEY MIXED WITH THE NATIVES.
WE ARE COMING FROM THAT MIXTURE.
ZAY HARDING: SO YOU DON' CONSIDER YOURSELF MORE WELSH THAN ARGENTINEAN? ALEJANDRO: I AM ARGENTINEAN AS ALL MY FAMILY IS SINCE THE DAY THEY ARRIVED HERE.
I FEEL THE WELSH CULTURE I FEEL AS MINE TOO.
ZAY HARDING: I SAY YOU'VE GOT THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS AND I'M SURE YOUR ANCESTORS WOULD BE VERY, VERY PROUD OF YOU FOR SUSTAINING THOSE ROOTS.
ALEJANDRO: YES, I THINK SO.
IT'S A NICE IDEA.
ZAY HARDING: EIGHT IN THE MORNING AND IT'S TIME TO HI THE ROAD AGAIN.
BUT BEFORE I LEAVE TREVELIN, I HAVE ONE MORE THING TO DO SOUTH OF HERE, FUEL STOPS ARE FEW AND FAR BETWEEN SO I CAN'T AFFORD TO TAKE ANY CHANCES.
HAVING FILLED UP, I HEAD SOUTH.
AND JUST OUT OF TOWN, I PASS THE NEXT FUEL STOP.
HERE'S THE GAS STATION.
THE LINE STARTS HERE AND GOES ON AND ON AND ON AND ON ALL THESE PEOPLE ARE WAITING IN LINE FOR GAS.
THIS COULD TAKE HOURS.
DRIVING ON, I BEGIN THE 460 MILE JOURNEY DOWN ROUTE 40 TO CUEVA DE LAS MANOS, THE CAVE OF THE HANDS, AND ITS EARLY ROCK ART.
OUTSIDE TOWN, THE ROAD TURNS TO GRAVEL, SLOWING MY PROGRESS, AND AS DARKNESS FALLS, I STOP FOR THE NIGHT AT AN ESTANCIA NEAR THE CAVES.
THE NEXT MORNING, I SET OFF FOR NEARBY CUEVA DE LAS MANOS THERE'S A BUNCH OF GUANACO.
THEY'RE THE WILD CAMELS OF PATAGONIA.
YOU SEE THEM ALL OVER.
THEY'RE BEAUTIFUL.
THEY LOOK LIKE LLAMAS BUT SKINNIER NECKS.
GOT TO BE CAREFUL BECAUSE THEY SPIT AT YOU AND KICK AND BITE.
THIS IS WHEN OFF-ROADING IS FUN, WHEN IT GOES UP AND DOWN.
WHEN IT'S STRAIGH GRAVEL IT'S NOT SO FUN, IT'S JUST REALLY DUSTY.
MORE BUMPS.
THERE IT IS DOWN THERE.
HOME TO ONE OF THE FINES EXAMPLES OF PRE-COLUMBIAN ROCK ART IN SOUTH AMERICA, CUEVA DE LAS MANOS IS NOW A WORLD HERITAGE SITE.
BUT FIRST, I HAVE TO GET THERE.
IT'S A WALK FROM HERE.
YEAH, YOU CAN DRIVE TO THE CAVE BUT WHY WOULD YOU WANT TO WHEN THE BEST WAY TO APPRECIATE THE SETTING OF IT, WHICH IS RIGHT OVER THERE, IS TO WALK ACROSS THE CANYON.
THIS AREA WAS INHABITED OVER 9,000 YEARS AGO BY HUNTER-GATHERERS, ATTRACTED BY THE ABUNDANCE OF FOOD IN THE VALLEY AND THEY LEFT THEIR MARK ON THE CAVES WHERE THEY SHELTERED WITH OVER 2,000 PAINTINGS OF HANDS.
NATALIA MAURONE IS AN EXPERT ON THE SITE.
GUIDE: THEY USED TO PLACE THEIR HAND ON THE WALL, PUT PAINT IN THE MOUTH AND BLOW.
DIRECTLY FROM THE MOUTH OR USING A TOOL.
THIS TOOL WAS THE BONE OF AN ANIMAL.
ZAY HARDING: REALLY? LIKE A STRAW THEY WERE BLOWING THROUGH.
WHAT WERE THEY USING FOR PAINT? GUIDE: COLORED SOIL, IRON OXIDE WITH BLOOD, WATER AND HOT CLAY.
ZAY HARDING: SO SOIL, BLOOD, WATER AND CLAY.
NO-ONE KNOWS WHY THE HUNTER-GATHERERS PAINTED THESE HANDS BUT THEORIES INCLUDE IT BEING PART OF A RITUAL OR SIMPLY A STATEMENT TO SAY THERE WERE HERE.
BUT OTHER PAINTINGS A THE SITE TELL US FAR MORE ABOUT HOW THESE PEOPLE ACTUALLY LIVED GUIDE: HERE I'M GOING TO SHOW YOU ONE OF MY FAVORITE PICTURES.
LOOK AT THESE GUANACOS HERE.
CAN YOU SEE THE HUNTER THERE? IT'S VERY TINY.
ZAY HARDING: THE PAINTINGS SHOW HUNTERS WORKING IN TEAMS TO SURROUND AND TRAP HERDS OF GAUNACOS BEFORE STRIKING THEM WITH STONES.
THIS IS DIRECT EVIDENCE OF HOW HUNTERS AND GATHERERS WERE LIVING 9,000 YEARS AGO ISN'T IT? GUIDE: YES, THIS IS A VERY IMPORTANT PLACE AND FOR ARCHAEOLOGISTS IT'S AMAZING.
ZAY HARDING: I'M HEADING SOUTH FROM CUEVA DE LOS MANOS ALONG ROUTE 40, BEFORE TAKING A DIVERSION TO EL CHALTEN AND LOS GLACIARES NATIONAL PARK.
IT'S A 400 MILE JOURNEY WHICH I'M TOLD CAN TAKE UP TO 12 HOURS.
AND BEFORE LONG, IT'S TIME TO FILL UP.
RUNNING OUT OF GAS HERE.
OK SO MOMENT OF TRUTH.
YOU KNOW WHAT, TRYING TO SUCK THE FUEL AND PREVENT A MOUTHFUL OF DIESEL IS HARDER THAN IT LOOKS.
UGHHH! WHAT HAPPENED? THE BACK CAME OUT! TIME TO TRY A DIFFERENT TECHNIQUE.
THERE WE GO! THAT SHOULD BE, FILL HER UP THERE PLEASE! GOT TO SAY, I'M QUITE PROUD AT THIS MOMENT.
ANYWAY THAT IS HOW YOU FILL UP A GAS TANK.
DON'T ANYONE LIGHT A MATCH AROUND ME RIGHT NOW.
CONTINUING MY JOURNEY TO EL CHALTEN, I TURN OFF ROUTE 40 AND HEAD WEST.
AND ALL OF A SUDDEN, THE VAS PATAGONIAN STEPPE BEGINS TO GIVE WAY TO SOMETHING TRULY SPECTACULAR.
I'M DRIVING ALONG FOR THE LAST 8 HOURS AT NOTHING BUT FLAT PLAINS EVERYWHERE AND ALL OF A SUDDEN I TURN THE CORNER AND IT'S NOT JUST MOUNTAINS; IT'S MOUNTAINS WITH A VENGEANCE.
LOOK AT THAT! WOW, GORGEOUS! LOOKS LIKE THE CLOUD IS JUST HUGGING THE MOUNTAIN LIKE A GIANT GLACIER.
EL CHALTEN WAS ESTABLISHED IN 1985 DURING A BORDER DISPUTE WITH CHILE.
NOWADAYS, IT PROVIDES THE STARTING POINT FOR SOME OF THE MOST SPECTACULAR TREKKING IN THE WHOLE OF THE COUNTRY.
ALL RIGHT, WE MADE IT.
BEHIND ME IN THE VALLEY IS MT.
FITZ ROY, ONE OF THE MOST ICONIC MOUNTAINS IN THE WORLD.
I'VE GOT TO SAY THAT I AM REALLY LOOKING FORWARD TO HIKING UP TO THE BASE OF IT TOMORROW.
I JUST HOPE THE CLOUDS CLEAR SO I CAN SEE IT.
TODAY I'M DOING ONE OF THE BEST DAY TREKS IN THE NATIONAL PARK.
STARTING IN EL PILAR, I PASS THE MIGHTY PIEDRAS BLANCAS GLACIER AND CLIMB UP TO LAGO DE LOS TRES.
OFFERING SPECTACULAR VIEWS OF MT.
FITZ ROY BEFORE RETURNING TO EL CHALTEN.
MY GUIDE IS ADRIAN WHO HAS LIVED IN THE AREA FOR OVER 20 YEARS.
ADRIAN: SO WE'RE GOING TO WALK ON THIS VALLEY.
THIS IS THE BLANCO RIVER VALLEY.
AND WE'RE GOING TO SEE THE SOURCE OF THIS WATER.
WE CAN SEE FITZ ROY UNDER THE CLOUDS.
ZAY HARDING: I'M GETTING FREEZING.
CAN WE START WALKING? ADRIAN: LET'S GO.
ZAY HARDING: LOS GLACIARES NATIONAL PARK IS A SANCTUARY FOR RARE FLORA AND FAUNA.
ADRIAN, AS A FORMER PARK RANGER, SOON SPOTS SOMETHING AMONGST THE TREES.
[WOODPECKER PECKING.]
ADRIAN: YOU HEAR THAT? THAT'S THE NOISE OF THE WOODPECKER.
ZAY HARDING: WOODPECKER? WHAT A WEIRD THING TO DO TO WHACK YOUR HEAD INTO A TREE.
ADRIAN: THEIR TONGUE IS WORKING AS AN AIRBAG FOR HIS BRAIN.
WHEN HE HITS THE TREE LOOKING FOR THE WORM SO HAS THIS PROTECTION.
IT'S THE GIAN MAGELLANIC WOODPECKER.
ZAY HARDING: GIANT, LOOK OUT! ADRIAN: IT'S THE BIGGES OF THE THREE WOODPECKERS.
ZAY HARDING: I WAS EXPECTING IT TO BE THIS SMALL.
ADRIAN: HERE WE HAVE THE BEAUTIFUL VIEW OF THE FITZ ROY MOUNTAIN.
ZAY HARDING: BEHIND THE FITZ ROY RANGE IS THE THIRD LARGES ICECAP IN THE WORLD, FEEDING A NUMBER OF IMPRESSIVE GLACIERS.
YOU CAN SEE WHY IT'S CALLED WHITE ROCK.
ADRIAN: PIEDRA BLANCA'S GLACIER.
WE CAN SEE THE UPPER PART.
THE PLACE WHERE, WHERE THE GLACIER GETS ALL THE SNOW.
THEN THIS SNOW, TRANSFORMS ON ICE.
AND THE ICE, THE WHITE OF THIS ICE PUSHES IT DOWN.
ZAY HARDING: IT GRINDS ITSELF A VALLEY, PUSHES OFF ALL THE EXCESS TO THE SIDES.
ADRIAN: EXACTLY.
ZAY HARDING: SO FAR, THE WALK HAS BEEN SURPRISINGLY GENTLE.
BUT THINGS ARE ABOUT TO CHANGE AS WE START THE TRAIL UP TO LAGO DE LOS TRES.
HOW HIGH ARE WE GOING TO BE GOING? ADRIAN: WE ARE GOING TO REACH 1200 METERS.
NOT BAD IN THIS KIND OF WEATHER.
PRETTY NICE.
LOOK AT THE CLOUDS AND VIEW.
ZAY HARDING: THIS IS THE WALL OF GREATNESS.
THIS IS LIKE WALKING INTO AN AMAZING PIECE OF ARTWORK.
ADRIAN: THIS IS CALLED THE LAGO DE LOS TRES.
AND THE GLACIER IS CALLED GLACIER DE LOS TRES.
ZAY HARDING: I COULD JUST STARE AT THIS ALL DAY.
AS A MATTER OF FACT, I'M GOING TO LAY DOWN AND STARE AT IT FOR A WHILE.
THIS IS YOUR BACK YARD, DUDE.
ADRIAN: LUCKILY THERE'S A POLICY OF THE NATIONAL PARK TO KEEP IT NON COMMERCIAL.
EVERYTHING IS CONCENTRATED IN TOWN.
EL CHALTEN.
SO KEEP IT NATURAL.
I HOPE IT REMAINS IN THIS WAY.
ZAY HARDING: THE FINAL DAY OF MY EPIC ROAD TRIP AND IT'S TIME TO LEAVE EL CHALTEN.
I'M ATTEMPTING TO REACH THE FAR SOUTH OF THE ARGENTINEAN MAINLAND, CUTTING ACROSS TO RIO GALLEGOS WHERE I REJOIN ROUTE 40 AND DRIVE TO THE END OF THE ROAD AT CABO VIRGENES.
BUT AS SOON AS I LEAVE EL CHALTEN, SOMETHING BY THE ROADSIDE CATCHES MY EYE.
WOW, JUST DRIVING ALONG AND I SEE ALL THESE CONDORS HERE.
USUALLY THEY'RE SO HIGH THEY LOOK TINY.
LOOK, LOOK, LOOK AT THAT, LOOK AT THAT! TAKING FLIGHT.
WHOO, WOW, AWESOME.
I DRIVE ON FOR ANOTHER FIVE HOURS TOWARDS CABO VIRGENES.
BUT AS I REACH THE FINAL 100 MILES OF ROUTE 40, THE ROAD SUDDENLY DETERIORATES.
AS THE COUNTDOWN TO THE END CONTINUES, THE ROADS ARE GETTING ROUGHER AND ROUGHER.
IT'S ALMOST LIKE THEY WANT TO SEE HOW BADLY DO I WANT TO GET THERE.
I AM GOING TO GET TO ZERO ON THIS ROUTE.
I'VE COME TOO FAR.
TOO FAR.
NOTHING'S GOING TO STOP ME NOW.
GETTING VERY CLOSE.
ABOUT 10 KILOMETERS LEFT IT'S GETTING A LITTLE BI DARKER AND THE RAIN IS COMING DOWN A LITTLE BIT HARDER MY HEART IS POUNDING A LITTLE BIT FASTER.
I JUST ENVISION A BIG FAT SIGN THAT SAYS, "YOU'VE REACHED KILOMETER ZERO, THE END OF YOUR ROUTE.
" HERE IT IS THE MOMENT I'VE BEEN WAITINGOR.
ROUTE 40 KILOMETERS ZERO! WOW, CAN'T BELIEVE I MADE IT.
I'M HERE.
I'M FINALLY HERE.
IN THE NICK OF TIME, TIME TO WATCH THE SUNSET.
KILOMETER ZERO.
WOW, THIS HAS NOT JUS THE END OF A JOURNEY ON ROUTE 40 THROUGH PATAGONIA, THIS IS THE END OF A JOURNEY FOR ME ALL THE WAY FROM THE TOP OF ARGENTINA ALONG ROUTE 40.
I WANTED AN ADVENTURE.
I GOT WAY MORE THAN AN ADVENTURE.
IT'S NOT JUS ABOUT THE ROAD, IT'S ABOUT THE ROUTE OF ARGENTINA.
THE PEOPLE, THE CULTURE, THE LANDSCAPE, THE WILD LIFE.
EVERYTHING IS HERE.
COME HERE, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT.
YOU WILL NOT BE DISAPPOINTED.
THANK YOU TO MY TRUSTY CAR WHO GOT ME HERE.
AND NOW I'M DONE.
THROWING AWAY THE KEYS! WOO! NARRATOR: STAY TUNED FOR A SPECIAL "GLOBE TREKKER" EXTRA.
ANNOUNCER: FUNDING FOR THIS PROGRAM IS PROVIDED BY, SUBARU.
WOMAN: AT SUBARU, WE BUILD VEHICLES LIKE THE RUGGED OUTBACK.
WITH SYMMETRICAL ALL-WHEEL DRIVE AND PLENTY OF CARGO SPACE.
FOR THOSE WHO PACK EVEN MORE ADVENTURE INTO LIFE.
SUBARU, A PROUD SPONSOR OF GLOBE TREKKER.
MAN: YOU CAN FIND OUT MORE ABOU THIS SERIES ON OUR WEBSITE.
PROGRAMS FROM THE GLOBE TREKKER SERIES ARE AVAILABLE ON DVD AND NOW ON DEMAND FROM GLOBETREKKER.
TV.
MUSIC FROM THE SERIES IS AVAILABLE ON CD, YOU CAN ALSO ORDER THE NEW GLOBE TREKKER ANNUAL FEATURING INFORMATION ON FESTIVALS, EVENTS AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES.
TO ORDER GLOBE TREKKER PRODUCTS CALL 888-565-0361 OR VISIT THE WEBSITE WWW.
GLOBETREKKERTV.
COM HOLLY MORRIS: RAIN OR SHINE I'M NO FAN OF GLITZ, SO I'M HEADING FURTHER EAS WHERE THE HIGH RISE AND THE CAR ARE NOT WELCOME.
ONE ROAD ENDS AND ANOTHER BEGINS.
THERE'S ONLY ONE WAY TO CABO POLONIO AND IT'S IN ONE OF THESE, RIGHT OVER THE SAND DUNE.
THIS NEXT ONE? OK.
[SONG PLAYS IN SPANISH.]
.
WHAT A PERFECT SPOT.
FIRST THE REVEAL OF THE OCEAN AND THEN OFF IN THE DISTANCE THE SETTLEMEN OF CABO POLONIO.
THIS IS INCREDIBLE, IT'S LIKE "GILLIGAN'S ISLAND" MEETS "MAD MAX.
" VERY STRANGE.
CABO POLONIO WAS NOTHING MORE THAN A TINY FISHING COMMUNITY WHEN A SMALL GROUP OF HIPPIES MOVED HERE BACK IN THE 1960'S.
USING ONLY BASIC BUILDING MATERIALS THEY CREATED MAKE-SHIFT HABITATS AND SLOWLY GREW THE PLACE INTO THE SIZABLE SETTLEMENT YOU SEE TODAY.
DESPITE LIMITED ACCESS TO ELECTRICITY, AUTOMOBILES AND FRESH WATER CABO POLONIO NOW BOASTS SEVERAL RESTAURANTS, SHOPS AND PLACES TO STAY AND IT'S BECOME A MECCA FOR TRAVELERS SEEKING A ROUGH AND READY VACATION EXPERIENCE.
I'M STAYING AT A POSADA RIGHT NEAR THE BEACH.
HOLA, HELLO, ANYONE HOME? HI.
ROBERT: HELLO, GOOD AFTERNOON.
HOLLY MORRIS: GOOD AFTERNOON, I'M HOLLY.
ROBERT: WELCOME HOME, I'M ROBERT.
CAN I HELP YOU WITH YOUR BAG? HOLLY MORRIS: SURE, THANK YOU.
ROBERT: PLEASE, FEEL AT HOME.
HOLLY MORRIS: THIS PLACE IS FANTASTIC.
ROBERT: THERE IS A PUBLIC LIBRARY.
HOLLY MORRIS: UH-HUH, OH WOW.
ROBERT: YOU CAN SEE THE LIGHTS? THERES NO ELECTRICITY HERE.
WE USE BATTERIES THAT WE CHARGE WITH SOLAR PANELS.
HOLLY MORRIS: OK.
THIS IS AMAZING.
ROBERT: THE BATHROOM, THERE'S ONE UP THERE.
HOLLY MORRIS: YEAH? ROBERT: AND THERE'S ONE INSIDE.
HOLLY MORRIS: OH WOW, THE BATHROOM IS A WORK OF ART.
CHECK THIS OUT.
SHOWER COMING OUT OF A BUCKE AND MY FAVORITE DETAIL THE UMBRELLA OVER THE TOILE IN CASE YOU NEED TO DO YOUR BUSINESS IN A RAINSTORM.
WOMAN: EVERYBODY TOLD US THAT IT'S LIKE THE PLACE YOU HAVE TO GO TO AND IT'S AFTER BEING THERE I WOULD REALLY SAY THE SAME.
LIKE, IT'S KIND OF MYSTERIOUS.
WOMAN 2: THERE'S NOT MUCH TO DO.
I MEAN, THERE'S THE BEACH AND THERE IS THERE'S SOME BARS WHERE YOU CAN GO TO AND THE PEOPLE I DON'T KNOW, THE FOOD WAS REALLY GOOD.
WOMAN: IT'S NOT REALLY A PLACE FOR ACTIVITIES IT'S MORE ABOU RELAXING AND ENJOYING LIFE.
WOMAN 2: YEAH, I THINK SO TOO.
HOLLY MORRIS: JUS BECAUSE THERE'S NO ELECTRICITY DOESN'T MEAN I'M CONDEMNED TO WEARING MY STINKY ROAD CLOTHES.
FOUND A WASHING MACHINE.
JUST PUT IN A LITTLE DAB OF SOAP OR SHAMPOO I FIND, PRETTY MUCH, ANYTHING WORKS EXCEPT MAYBE TOOTHPASTE.
AND THEN, OVER TO THE WELL.
GET YOUR WATER.
OK, THAT'S GOOD ENOUGH.
I'M HAVING A "LITTLE HOUSE ON THE PRAIRIE" MOMENT HERE.
OK, THEN YOU DUMP THE WATER INTO YOUR WASHING MACHINE.
ALL RIGHT, THEN YOU PUT IT ON "WASH.
" RIGHT, AND THEN FOR THE POWER SOURCE.
GO THROUGH YOUR WASH CYCLE, YOUR RINSE CYCLE, YOUR SPIN CYCLE AND ALL THE WHILE, ENJOY THE VIEW.
[WAVES CRASHING.]
.
NO ELECTRICITY, NO INTERNET.
I CAN HEAR THE SURF OUT MY WINDOW AND IT'S A FULL MOON.
THIS IS MY DEFINITION OF A PERFECT MOMENT.
FOR THOSE WHO PACK EVEN MORE ADVENTURE INTO LIFE.
SUBARU, A PROUD SPONSOR OF "GLOBE TREKKER.
" ZAY HARDING: THIS IS PATAGONIA, THAT VAST EXPANSE OF LAND BETWEEN THE ANDES IN THE WES AND THE ATLANTIC OCEAN TO THE EAST.
COVERING ALMOST A THIRD OF ARGENTINA, IT'S ONE OF THE WORLD'S LAS TRUE WILDERNESSES AND I'M ABOUT TO TAKE A DRIVE ALL THE WAY DOWN THROUGH IT.
I'VE STOCKED UP ON FUEL, I'VE GOT A MAP, I'VE GOT MY TRUSTY 4X4 AND NOW IT'S TIME TO HIT THE ROAD.
READY FOR THE ROAD TRIP OF A LIFETIME THIS IS THE LEGENDARY ROUTE 40! ARGENTINA'S ROUTE 40 RUNS THE LENGTH OF THE COUNTRY FROM NORTH TO SOUTH AS IT TRACKS THE ANDES.
AT OVER 3,000 MILES, IT'S ONE OF THE LONGEST ROADS IN THE WORLD.
PREVIOUSLY I TRAVELED FROM THE BOLIVIAN BORDER TO MENDOZA.
IN THE CONCLUDING PART OF MY JOURNEY, I CONTINUE DRIVING SOUTH THROUGH PATAGONIA.
I START BY CLIMBING LANIN VOLCANO.
I THEN EXPLORE THE ARGENTINEAN LAKE DISTRICT, SEEK OUT BUTCH CASSIDY'S HIDEAWAY AND VISIT THE WELSH TOWN OF TREVELIN.
ENTERING SOUTHERN PATAGONIA, I EXPLORE THE CAVE OF THE HANDS AND ITS EARLY ROCK ART BEFORE TREKKING TO THE BASE OF MT.
FITZ ROY.
I COMPLETE MY JOURNEY BY DRIVING TO THE VERY END OF ROUTE 40 AT CABO VIRGENES.
PATAGONIA IS A VAST, SPARSELY POPULATED REGION.
HUMAN HABITATION BEGAN OVER 9,000 YEARS AGO BU IT WASN'T UNTIL THE 18TH CENTURY THAT EUROPEANS BEGAN TO SETTLE HERE AND FARM THE LAND.
NOWADAYS, PATAGONIA IS A MECCA FOR LOVERS OF THE GREAT OUTDOORS AND IS HOME TO SEVERAL WORLD-CLASS NATIONAL PARKS.
BUT DRIVING THROUGH THEM IS NOT ALWAYS EASY A LOT OF ROUTE 40 HERE IN PATAGONIA IS JUST GRAVEL ROADS.
IT'S TRICKY TO DRIVE ON AND I'M GONNA HAVE TO GET USED TO IT.
I KEEP FISH TAILING ON EVERY TURN SLIP-SLIDE.
AND IT'S NOT EVEN WET.
I BEGIN MY JOURNEY BY TAKING A SHORT DETOUR OFF ROUTE 40 TO LANIN NATIONAL PARK.
AND ALMOST IMMEDIATELY, I EXPERIENCE FIRST HAND HOW DANGEROUS THESE ROADS CAN BE WHOA, THIS CAR IS COMPLETELY OVERTURNED.
WOW, WE'LL JUST SEE IF THEY NEED ANY HELP.
STILL TRYING TO FIGURE OUT WHAT HAPPENED.
MAN: I WAS REALLY EASY.
TALKING WITH MY WIFE AND NEXT SECOND I HIT THE SIDE OF THE ROAD.
ZAY HARDING: AND YOU ENDED UP UPSIDE DOWN.
MAN: EXACTLY.
IT WAS QUITE AN EXPERIENCE REALLY.
THE TURN TOOK US BY SURPRISE REALLY.
ZAY HARDING: THE SHARP TURN RIGHT IN HERE.
MAN: YEAH, YEAH, YEAH AND THERE ARE MANY OTHERS IN THE ROAD TO THE LAKES BU THIS ONE WAS THE ONE FOR US.
ZAY HARDING: AND IT'S A GRAVEL ROAD SO WAS THE CAR SKIDDING? MAN: YES, YOU FEEL LIKE YOU ARE SLIDING ALL THE TIME.
SO YOU HAVE TO GO SLOWLY.
SECOND GEAR ALL THE TIME.
ZAY HARDING: ARE YOU GUYS OK? DID YOU GET HURT? MAN: NO, JUST THIS MINOR CUT.
ZAY HARDING: OK SO WE'RE JUST GOING TO TRY AND FLIP I BACK OVER AND HELP HIM GET BACK ON HIS FEET.
WOW, WHEN YOU LOOK A THE DENT HERE IN THE ROOF, THAT'S VERY CLOSE TO THEIR HEAD.
THAT COULD HAVE BEEN A LOT WORSE.
THE WINDSHIELD COULD HAVE BEEN SHATTERED.
THEY MAY THINK I WAS THEIR UNLUCKY DAY.
I SAY IT WAS THEIR LUCKY DAY.
COULD HAVE BEEN A LOT WORSE.
DRIVING CAREFULLY ON, I CONTINUE INTO THE HEART OF LANIN NATIONAL PARK AND MY FIRST STOP WHERE IT'S TIME TO SWAP MY CAR FOR MY TREKKING BOOTS.
PEOPLE COME HERE FOR TWO REASONS ONE TO EXPERIENCE NATURE AT ITS MOST UNTOUCHED.
AND TWO TO TAKE ON ITS BIGGEST CHALLENGE.
IT'S UP THERE VOLCANO LANIN.
THIS IS MY GUIDE, PATRICK.
HI, HOW ARE YOU.
3,776 METERS HIGH AND SNOW CAPPED YEAR ROUND, TREKS UP VOLCANO LANIN AREN'T TO BE TAKEN LIGHTLY AND A GUIDE IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
WHAT KIND OF TREES ARE THESE? PATRICK: THESE ARE CALLED AROCARIA.
ZAY HARDING: AROCARIA? PATRICK: AROCARIA, YOU CALL IT MONKEY PUZZLE.
ZAY HARDING: MONKEY PUZZLE.
CAUSE THE MONKEYS DON'T KNOW HOW TO GET UP.
PATRICK: YEAH, IT'S VERY TOUGH.
THEY NEED TO GROW NEAR VOLCANOS.
THEY USE THE ASHES FROM THE VOLCANO TO GROW UP AND THESE KINDS OF TREES, THEY GROW UP TO 80 METERS LONG AND 2 METERS WIDE WHEN THEY'RE FULL GROWN.
AND THEY LIVE ALMOST 1,000 YEARS OLD.
ZAY HARDING: SO THIS IS A YOUNG ONE.
PATRICK: YEAH, THIS IS VERY YOUNG.
PROBABLY 200 YEARS OLD.
AND THEY HAVE TO BE 800 OVER SEA LEVEL.
ZAY HARDING: OH, OK, SO THESE ARE THE PERFECT CONDITIONS FOR PATRICK: YEAH, THESE ARE THE PERFECT CONDITIONS OF THE WORLD.
ZAY HARDING: ANY MONKEYS AROUND HERE? PATRICK: NO! ZAY HARDING: FURTHER ALONG THE TRAIL AND THE FOREST ENDS ABRUPTLY.
PATRICK: WE'RE 1,250 METERS ABOVE SEA LEVEL.
ZAY HARDING: SO ONLY 2,500 METERS TO GO! WE'RE NOT GOING TO THE TOP-TOP TODAY.
PATRICK: NOT TODAY.
ZAY HARDING: OUR GOAL FOR TODAY IS A SHELTER A 2,300 METERS AND ITS TIME TO BEGIN OUR ASCENT.
[SIGHS.]
THAT'S KIND OF INTENSE.
JUST ONE STEP AT A TIME.
KEEP YOUR HEAD DOWN.
DOESN'T FEEL LIKE WE MADE MUCH PROGRESS BUT WE'RE GETTING A LITTLE CLOSER.
IS THIS HALFWAY THERE? PATRICK: ALMOST.
THIS IS THE END OF THE FISH SPINE MORAINE.
THE GLACIER WENT LIKE THIS IN THE MIDDLE OF BOTH MORAINE'S.
ZAY HARDING: WHAT IS A MORAINE? PATRICK: IMAGINE MY FOO IS A GLACIER GOING DOWN.
THESE ARE THE TWO MORAINES.
THE GLACIER IS GOING DOWN THIS WAY.
FROM HERE YOU CAN SEE, PERFECT, BOTH MORAINES GOING DOWN TO THE VALLEY.
.
THE GLACIER BACK THAT WAY, WE'RE GOING THERE NOW.
ZAY HARDING: WHAT ABOUT REST? YOU KNOW, WE JUST HIKED UP, LOOK AT ALL THIS WE JUST HIKED UP.
WE NEED TO BREATHE A LITTLE BIT.
PATRICK: LET'S GO.
ZAY HARDING: IT'S VERY, VERY NICE AND COOL AND DRY.
PATRICK: YEAH, IT'S PERFECT WEATHER.
COME ON.
ZAY HARDING: AS WE CLIMB HIGHER, OUR EFFORTS ARE REWARDED WITH A SPECTACULAR VIEW OF THE LAKES BELOW.
WOW, THAT IS SOMETHING.
PATRICK: THIS IS BEAUTIFUL.
THIS IS AN ARGENTINEAN LAKE, THIS A CHILEAN LAKE.
SO WE'RE JUST ON THE BORDERLINE.
ZAY HARDING: WHAT ARE THE RELATIONSHIPS BETWEEN THE TWO COUNTRIES? PATRICK: WE FIGHT EVERY METER OF THE BORDERLINE ALL ALONG THE COUNTRY.
ZAY HARDING: THIS IS THE BORDERLINE? PATRICK: THIS IS THE BORDERLINE.
LET'S GO FOR THE SUMMIT.
ZAY HARDING: AN HOUR LATER, WE FINALLY REACH OUR HOME FOR THE NIGHT.
PATRICK: SEE, THERE IS THE SHELTER.
ZAY HARDING: WHAT A GLORIOUS SIGHT! MOST PEOPLE CHOOSE TO REST UP HERE BEFORE TACKLING THE SUMMI EARLY THE NEXT MORNING.
AND FOR ACCOMMODATION THERE ARE A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT OPTIONS.
SO THIS HUT HERE IS QUITE NICE BECAUSE IT'S ALWAYS OPEN, ANYBODY CAN STAY HERE AND IT'S FREE.
BUT, THE PROBLEM IS, IT GETS A LITTLE NOISY IN THE MORNING AND CROWDED AT NIGHT CAUSE EVERYONE WANTS TO BE HERE.
SO, I'M GONNA RENT MY OWN LITTLE HUT.
I'M GOING TO STAY IN ONE OF THESE.
BECAUSE IT'S MY OWN, IT'S SLIGHTLY REMOVED AND IT'S ONLY 100 PESOS THAT'S A LITTLE OVER 10 BUCKS.
OH YEAH, SPACIOUS.
YOU CAN ALREADY FEEL THE HEAT COMING OUT.
I'M FEELING A BIT BEAT ACTUALLY.
THAT WAS A LO TOUGHER THAN I THOUGHT.
YOU LOOK AT IT AND THINK, "OH, OK, NOT TOO BAD.
" AND HALF-WAY, EVEN BETTER, WE'LL STOP UP THERE FOR THE NIGHT.
SO, WE'RE GOING TO GO TO BED EARLY AND GET UP EXTREMELY EARLY IN THE MORNING.
TO BE HONEST WITH YOU, I COULD LAY DOWN RIGHT NOW AND JUST PASS OUT.
AT THREE IN THE MORNING WE SET OFF AGAIN.
IT'S MOMENTS LIKE THIS I'M THANKFUL FOR MY GUIDE.
I HAVE NO IDEA WHERE I'M GOING, IT'S JUST ROCKS.
I CAN BARELY MAKE OUT THE ICE LAYER UP THERE.
SOON, WE HIT THE SNOW LINE AND IT'S TIME TO PUT ON OUR CRAMPONS AND TAKE OUT OUR ICE AXES.
PATRICK: IF YOU FALL DOWN, YOU GO LIKE THIS.
ZAY HARDING: AS THE FIRS RAYS OF SUNLIGHT APPEAR OVER THE HORIZON, THE VIEW THAT EMERGES IS INCREDIBLE.
WE'VE BEEN TREKKING FOR ABOUT FOUR HOURS NOW.
AND TO BE HONEST, THIS SUNRISE IS TOTALLY WORTH EVERY MINUTE OF IT.
AND THE VIEW, WOW.
WITH PATRICK SETTING THE PACE, WE SLOG ON FOR ANOTHER FOUR, LONG HOURS UNTIL THE SUMMIT IS WITHIN TOUCHING DISTANCE AREN'T YOU SICK OF DRAGGING ME ON THIS LEASH? PATRICK: THERE'S THE SUMMIT.
ZAY HARDING: THAT'S THE SUMMIT RIGHT THERE.
HE'S CUT THE LEASH.
PATRICK: YOU'RE A FREE MAN! ZAY HARDING: I'M A FREE MAN! OH MY GOD! LOOK AT THAT! I DID IT! WHAT'S UP CHILE, WHAT'S UP ARGENTINA! WHO'S THE KING OF THE MOUNTAIN NOW! THAT'S RIGHT, TAKE IT IN! I'M ON TOP! I'M CONTINUING MY JOURNEY BY DRIVING DOWN ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL ROADS IN THE COUNTRY.
THIS IS ARGENTINA'S LAKE DISTRICT.
IT'S A BEAUTIFUL DRIVE.
VIRTUALLY AROUND EVERY CORNER THERE'S ANOTHER FANTASTIC VIEW TO TAKE IN.
FROM SAN MARTIN DE LOS ANDES, THE SEVEN LAKES DRIVE WINDS ITS WAY TO BARILOCHE WHERE IT JOINS ROUTE 40.
ON THE SHORES ON LAKE NAHUEL HUAPI, BARILOCHE WOULDN'T FEEL OUT OF PLACE IN THE ALPS.
IN FACT, THE FIRST SETTLERS IN THE EARLY TWENTIETH CENTURY WERE SWISS, GERMAN AND ITALIAN.
THIS AREA IS OFTEN CALLED LITTLE SWITZERLAND.
IT'S GOT ALPINE ARCHITECTURE, FONDUE RESTAURANTS, IT'S EVEN GOT ST.
BERNARD DOGS YOU CAN TAKE YOUR PHOTO WITH.
HELLO THERE.
HARDLY FEELS LIKE SOUTH AMERICA DOES IT? DOGS ASIDE, THERE'S SOMETHING ELSE THE TOWN IS RENOWNED FOR.
CHOCOLATE.
SERIOUSLY, THERE'S A CHOCOLATE SHOP ON EVERY CORNER EACH WITH ITS OWN PERSONALITY.
IT'S LIKE THE WHOLE TOWN HAS BEEN BUILT OUT OF CHOCOLATE THIS ONE'S CALLED MAMUSHKA.
MAN: HELLO ZAY, WELCOME TO MAMUSHKA.
ZAY HARDING: THANK YOU, I HEAR YOU GUYS ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR PUTTING THE "MM" IN CHOCOLATE.
MAN: THAT'S RIGHT.
ZAY HARDING: WHY IS THIS TOWN SYNONYMOUS WITH CHOCOLATE? MAN: BECAUSE OF THE IMMIGRATION FROM ITALY AND SWITZERLAND AND WE HAVE A REALLY NICE CHOCOLATE CULTURE HERE IN BARILOCHE.
ZAY HARDING: AND WHA MAKES YOUR CHOCOLATE SO GOOD? MAN: BECAUSE OF THE QUALITY OF THE INGREDIENTS.
WE USE THE BES INGREDIENTS IN THE WORLD.
OUR CACAO IS FROM COLOMBIA, ECUADOR.
I WOULD RECOMMEND THE TIMBAL, DULCE DE LECHE.
OUR MOST FAMOUS CHOCOLATES.
THERE'S LAYERS OF CHOCOLATE AND DULCE DE LECHE.
ZAY HARDING: LAYERS OF CHOCOLATE.
SO IT'S LIKE A LASAGNA OF CHOCOLATE.
MAN: THAT'S RIGHT.
MAY I ASK FOR A TIMBAL? ZAY HARDING: WERE YOU SNEAKING ANY IN TODAY? THANK YOU.
YOU CAN SEE THE LAYERS.
OH MAN.
PART OF THE FUN IS BITING INTO IT GOES, "CHUNK, CHUNK, CHUNK.
" MAN: IT'S GOOD.
ZAY HARDING: THAT'S PRETTY FANTASTIC.
I'M GOING TO DO SOME SHOPPING AND HEAD ON OUT.
MAN: THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
ZAY HARDING: I'LL HAVE A COUPLE OF THOSE, LET'S TRY A COUPLE OF THOSE OOH, ONE OF THOSE.
AND PICK YOUR FAVORITE CHOICE, JUST THROW IN SOME EXTRA STUFF.
I CAME IN HERE WONDERING WHY THE WORLD CAN'T GET ENOUGH OF THIS CHOCOLATE.
NOW I CAN'T GE ENOUGH OF THIS CHOCOLATE.
I'LL COME BACK FOR THE REST LATER.
IS IT NIGHTTIME ALL READY? HOW LONG WAS I IN THERE? WHAT DAY IS IT, TWO DAYS LATER? MOST PEOPLE COME TO BARILOCHE NOT FOR THE CHOCOLATE SHOPS BUT TO HIT THE GREA OUTDOORS AND THE TOWN HAS A RICH CLIMBING HERITAGE.
BARILOCHE WAS PUT FIRMLY ON THE MAP AS AN OUTDOOR SPORTS DESTINATION BY A GERMAN BORN MOUNTAINEER WITH A TASTE FOR ADVENTURE.
HIS NAME WAS OTTO MEILING, HE MOVED HERE IN 1930, BUILT HIS HOUSE JUS THERE ON THAT HILL, BEGAN TEACHING THE THEN NEW SPORT OF SKIING AND MADE A NUMBER OF FIRST ASCENTS OF THE SURROUNDING MOUNTAINS.
IN 1931 HE ESTABLISHED A MOUNTAINEERING CLUB CALLED THE CLUB ANDINO DE BARILOCHE, STILL HERE TODAY.
BUT THE CLUB HAS A DARK PAST AFTER THE SECOND WORLD WAR, IT BECAME A MEETING POIN FOR NAZIS FLEEING GERMANY.
ONE OF THEIR MEMBERS, ERIC PRIEBKE, WAS RESPONSIBLE FOR THE MURDER OF 330 ITALIAN CIVILIANS.
JOURNALIST, ABEL BASTI WAS AT HIS HOUSE WHEN HE WAS ARRESTED IN 1994.
ABEL BASTI: WHEN THE POLICE ARRIVED HE SALUTED LIKE IN A MILITARY WAY AND SAID I'M READY TO BE ARRESTED.
ZAY HARDING: WOW, SO HE'D PROBABLY BEEN PREPARING FOR THIS MOMENT FOR YEARS.
ABEL BASTI: IT WAS LIKE IN HE WAS AGAIN IN THE SECOND WORLD WAR AND HAD HIS ENEMIES IN FRONT OF HIM AND HE WAS BEING CAPTURED.
ZAY HARDING: DID HE SHOW ANY REMORSE? ABEL BASTI: WHEN I ASKED HIM IF HE REGRETTED IT HE JUST NODDED AS IF TO SAY YES BUT COULDN'T SAY IT.
ZAY HARDING: PRIEBKE WAS EXTRADITED TO ITALY, TRIED AND PLACED UNDER HOUSE ARREST.
HE DIED IN 2013 AT THE AGE OF 100 FROM NATURAL CAUSES.
I'M LEAVING SAN CARLOS DE BARILOCHE, MAKING THE SHORT JOURNEY ALONG ROUTE 40 TO EL BOLSON OVER THE YEARS, EL BOLSON HAS BECOME A HAVEN FOR THOSE SEEKING TO ESCAPE THE RAT RACE.
AND HIDDEN AWAY IN THE FORESTS AROUND THE TOWN ARE SOME BASIC LODGES OR REFUGIOS WHICH ALLOW TRAVELERS TO GET BACK TO NATURE.
HOLA, SEÃOR.
DONDE ESTA LA CONFLUENCIA? MAN: LA CONFLUENCIA? ZAY HARDING: SI.
MAN: ES CAMINO.
[SPEAKING INAUDIBLE SPANISH.]
ZAY HARDING: WE'RE ON THE RIGH TRACK, JUST FEELS WEIRD.
I'M HEADING TO A LODGE CALLED LA CONFLUENCIA AND I'M GLAD I'VE GOT A 4X4 ALRIGHT, WHA HAPPENED TO MY ROAD? OH, THERE IT IS, ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE STREAM.
NICE LITTLE GARDEN.
VERY WELCOMING, SMOKE COMING ON.
WELL OFF THE BEATEN TRACK, LA CONFLUENCIA IS THE PERFECT ECO-HIDEAWAY.
IT'S THE BRAINCHILD OF AMERICAN EXPAT, MARK JORDAN.
MARK JORDAN: LOOKS LIKE YOU'RE JUST IN TIME FOR DINNER.
ZAY HARDING: TIMED THAT RIGHT.
WOW, THIS IS GREAT, LOOK AT THIS! MARK JORDAN: THE CONCEP BASICALLY WAS, IN A SENSE, AN UPGRADED REFUGIO.
ZAY HARDING: OK, LIKE THOSE HUTS YOU FIND WALKING UP THE MOUNTAIN WHEN YOU'RE CLIMBING.
MARK JORDAN: YEAH, EXACTLY.
SO OUR THOUGHT WAS TO CREATE A BASE CAMP FOR EXPLORING THE BACK COUNTRY HERE.
OK, I'M GOING TO SHOW YOU TO THE ROOM HERE.
LIKE I TOLD YOU.
THEY'RE INTENTIONALLY SMALL.
ZAY HARDING: IT'S CUTE.
MARK JORDAN: THE INTENTION IS TO ENCOURAGE PEOPLE TO SPEND TIME OUT OF THE ROOM, DOWNSTAIRS IN THE COMMUNAL AREAS.
ZAY HARDING: COME DOWN, SLEEP HERE.
MARK JORDAN: BUT RATHER THAN A SLEEPING BAG UP IN THE REFUGIOS, WE GIVE YOU A MATTRESS.
HAVE A LOOK OUTDOORS.
ZAY HARDING: NICE DECK, SUCH A GREAT PLACE.
WHOA, THAT'S DEEP.
MARK JORDAN: THAT RIVER'S THE SOURCE OF OUR DRINKING WATER, SHOWER WATER AND ELECTRICITY TOO.
ZAY HARDING: SO HOW DID YOU END UP HERE IN EL BOLSON? MARK JORDAN: WELL, YOU KNOW, MY WIFE AND I WERE TRAVELING, PRETTY MUCH, YOU KNOW, LIKE YOURSELF MAYBE 20 YEARS AGO AND WE LIKED THE AREA.
YOU KNOW, A WEEK BECOMES A MONTH, BECOMES A YEAR.
ZAY HARDING: YOU DIDN' INTEND TO STAY THAT LONG? MARK JORDAN: NO, WE REALLY DIDN'T.
ZAY HARDING: AND YOU CAN JUST DO WHATEVER YOU WANT.
MARK JORDAN: WELL THAT'S THE THING THAT DREW US TO ARGENTINA.
A LOT OF OUR FRIENDS HERE IN THE AREA, WERE ALL BASICALLY IMMIGRANTS REALLY.
EITHER EUROPEAN OR NORTH AMERICAN.
AND ONE OF THE ATTRACTIONS WE ALL FOUND TO THIS PARTICULAR AREA IS THAT YOU COULD DO PRETTY MUCH AS YOU PLEASED.
ZAY HARDING: WHEN YOU GOT HERE THIS PLACE WAS ALL LIKE, HIPPIES HANGING OUT? MARK JORDAN: YES IT WAS LIKE BIG SUR.
ZAY HARDING: IT WAS FAR OUT! FAR OUT DUDE.
THE NEXT DAY I HEAD INTO TOWN TO EXPLORE EL BOLSON ITSELF.
EL BOLSON WAS ESTABLISHED BY HIPPIES IN THE 60'S AND ALTHOUGH IT'S NO LONGER THE SEAT OF COUNTER CULTURE IT ONCE WAS, IT STILL RETAINS SOME OF THAT BOHEMIAN SPIRIT.
AND ONE OF THE BEST PLACES TO FEEL THAT IS TO COME TO THE LOCAL MARKET WHICH IS HELD THREE TIMES A WEEK RIGHT HERE IN THE TOWN CENTER.
MAN: WE WERE PART OF A BIG IMMIGRATION OF PSEUDO-HIPPIES FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD LOOKING FOR A GOOD PLACE TO BE CLOSE TO NATURE AND TO GET AWAY FROM THE RAT RACE.
PEOPLE WHO MOVE HERE STILL TRY TO BE AS FAITHFUL AS THEY CAN TO THE ORIGINAL IDEA.
ZAY HARDING: IT'S NO SECRE TO THE PEOPLE THAT LIVE HERE THAT THE WOODS SURROUNDING THE TOWN ARE INHABITED BY ELVES.
AND ALL AROUND THE MARKE YOU'LL SEE LOTS OF LITTLE KIOSKS SELLING ELF LIKE PRODUCTS.
HOLA, THIS ONE HERE LOOKS LIKE YOU'VE GOT LOTS OF ELVES.
WHAT IS THE PURPOSE, LIKE, WHY DO PEOPLE BUY THEM? ELF MAN: PEOPLE USE THEM AS A PROTECTOR.
ZAY HARDING: HOW DO YOU CHOOSE ONE? ELF MAN: YOU HAVE TO LOOK AT THEM AND HE CHOOSES YOU.
ZAY HARDING: IT CHOOSES ME.
LET'S SEE THIS ONE HERE.
ELF MAN: GO ON, TAKE IT.
ZAY HARDING: THAT'S PRETTY COOL RIGHT.
WHAT IS THE SIGNIFICANCE OF THIS ONE? ELF MAN: THEY ARE ANGRY BECAUSE THEY ARE AGAINST HUMANITY DESTROYING THE FOREST.
THEY ARE HERE IN EL BOLSON BECAUSE WE HAVE MORE FORES AND IT'S QUIETER.
ZAY HARDING: SO HE'S A NATURALIST AND HE'S TELLING US SOMETHING, HE'S SAYING, "MAN IS DESTROYING NATURE TOO FAST.
AND MUST STOP DESTROYING NATURE.
" DOES HE HAVE A NAME? ELF MAN: YOU HAVE TO CHOOSE A NAME OR A NICKNAME.
ZAY HARDING: THE NAME CHOOSES YOU AS WELL.
I'M GOING TO CALL THIS ONE IAN.
SO, EVERYBODY LISTEN TO IAN, HE HAS SOMETHING TO SAY.
STOP DESTROYING NATURE! I'LL TAKE HIM WITH ME.
HE'S GOING TO PROTECT ME.
KNOW THAT HE'S IN GOOD HANDS.
MUCHAS GRACIAS Y BUENA SUERTE PARA TI.
BEING AT ONE WITH THE ENVIRONMENT IS INTEGRAL TO THE SPIRIT OF EL BOLSON.
AND A TWO HOUR WALK THROUGH THE FORESTS ABOVE TOWN IS ONE OF THE ITS MOS ENCHANTING LOCATIONS EL BOSQUE TALLADO OR THE CARVED FOREST.
THE PROJECT CAME TO LIFE IN 1986 WHEN A GROUP OF ARTISTS BEGAN CARVING THEIR CREATIONS FROM THE REMAINS OF A FORES DEVASTATED BY FIRE.
THERE ARE NOW OVER 50 SCULPTURES HIDDEN AWAY AMONGST THE TREES.
I LOVE THIS ONE.
IT'S LIKE AN ELF CLIMBING OUT OF A TREE.
THIS ONE'S DONE IN A BAS RELIEF STYLE.
SO IT'S ACTUALLY WITHIN THE TREE ITSELF.
BUT THEY'VE CARVED THIS PART OF IT TO LOOK LIKE IT'S CLIMBING OUT.
IT'S WILD.
KIND OF MAGICAL.
I LOVE HOW THE ARTISTS INCORPORATE WHATEVER THEY'RE GIVEN.
THIS HAS A KNOT FROM THE BRANCH IN THE TREE.
THEY JUST USE IT AS THE EYE AND IT TOTALLY WORKS.
IT'S ANOTHER TWO HOUR WALK BACK TO EL BOLSON BUT FOR THE BRAVE OR FOOLHARDY THERE'S A MUCH QUICKER WAY DOWN STARTING TO GET NERVOUS PABLO: YOU FOLLOW MY INSTRUCTIONS.
EYE OF THE TIGER.
[GROWLING.]
.
ZAY HARDING: HERE WE GO.
HERE WE GO! HERE WE GO! OH MY GOD! THIS IS INCREDIBLE, I LOVE IT! WOW, SO WE'RE ACTUALLY GOING UP! WITH STRONG THERMALS MOST AFTERNOONS, EL BOLSON IS ONE OF THE BEST PLACES IN THE WORLD TO PARAGLIDE.
WOW! WHAT DO I DO, WHAT DO I DO, WHAT DO I DO?! OW, RIGHT ON THE THORNS! THAT WAS FANTASTIC! OH, SO MUCH BETTER THAN CLIMBING DOWN THE MOUNTAIN! PABLO: CONGRATULATIONS! ZAY HARDING: THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
THAT WAS WONDERFUL, WONDERFUL.
FROM HERE ON OUT THE DISTANCES BETWEEN TOWNS INCREASES SUBSTANTIALLY.
SO TO ENCOURAGE EXPANSION INTO PATAGONIA, SOUTH OF THE 42 DEGREE LATITUDE LINE, THE GOVERNMENT SUBSIDIZES FUEL BY UP TO 30%.
I GET TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THA AND JUDGING BY THE LONG LINES, SO DOES EVERYBODY ELSE.
ARMED WITH A FULL TANK, I'M ENTERING THE STATE OF CHUBUT.
OVER THE NEXT 200 MILES, I'M MAKING TWO DETOURS FROM ROUTE 40.
FIRST, I SEEK OU BUTCH CASSIDY'S HIDEOU AT CHOLILA I THEN EXPLORE THE WELSH TOWN OF TREVELIN.
AS I GO DEEPER INTO CHUBUT, THE LANDSCAPE BECOMES MORE BARREN AND THE ROADS QUIETER.
BEFORE ROUTE 40 EXISTED, THIS PART OF PATAGONIA WAS EXTREMELY ISOLATED, OVERLOOKED BY THE REST OF THE COUNTRY.
BUT THIS MADE IT THE PERFECT PLACE TO DISAPPEAR.
IN 1901, TWO OF THE WORLD'S MOST NOTORIOUS GANGSTERS FLED HERE TO ESCAPE THE LAW.
THEY WERE BUTCH CASSIDY AND THE SUNDANCE KID.
YOU CAN SEE WHY THEY CHOSE TO HIDE OUT HERE IN CHOLILA.
THE LAKES AND MOUNTAINS REALLY DO RESEMBLE UTAH.
THEY WOULD HAVE FELT RIGHT AT HOME.
FLEEING FROM THE SCENE OF THEIR LATEST TRAIN ROBBERY WITH $2.
5 MILLION IN THEIR POCKETS, THEY SETTLED HERE IN THE PATAGONIAN WILDERNESS.
IT'S SO REAL, IT'S WEIRD.
ON THEIR 15,000 ACRE RANCH THEY REARED CATTLE AND SOON BECAME PART OF THE LOCAL COMMUNITY.
HISTORIAN JUAN MOTOMALA IS AN EXPERT ON THEIR TIME IN ARGENTINA.
JUAN MOTOMALA: THIS IS THE ORIGINAL HOUSE THA BUTCH CASSIDY AND THE SUNDANCE KID BUILT IN CHOLILA IN 1901.
THEY ESTABLISHED A FARMING COMMUNITY WITH LOTS OF LAND AND NOBODY KNEW THEIR PAST.
THEY CHANGED THEIR NAMES.
THEY WEREN'T BUTCH OR SUNDANCE THEY WERE ENRIQUE PLACE AND JAMES RYAN.
IN THIS WAY NOBODY KNEW THEM.
ZAY HARDING: BUT AFTER FIVE YEARS THEY WERE TRACKED DOWN.
JUAN MOTOMALA: THEY SOLD UP EVERYTHING AND FLED TO CHILE AND THEN TO BOLIVIA WHERE THEY DIED, PEOPLE SAY THEY DIED.
ZAY HARDING: SO WHO WERE THEY TO YOU, WERE THEY HONEST MEN OR WERE THEY OUTLAW CRIMINALS? JUAN MOTOMALA: THEY HAVE A SPECIFIC PERSONALITY.
THEY'VE NEVER KILLED ANYONE.
SO THEY ROBBED WITH GOOD METHODS AND DID IT WITH A SMILE BUT THE MONEY THAT THEY STOLE.
IT'S NOT TRUE THEY STOLE FROM THE RICH TO GIVE TO THE POOR.
AND THIS IS THE REASON THEY HAVE SO MUCH MONEY.
ZAY HARDING: IT'S HARD NO TO GET EXCITED TO THINK THA I'M IN ACTUAL LIVING QUARTERS OF THESE GLORIFIED GANGSTERS KNOWN THROUGHOUT THE WORLD.
GOT THE GUEST BEDROOM THERE.
SUNDANCE'S ACTUAL BEDROOM, RIGHT HERE, BUTCH CASSIDY'S ACTUAL BEDROOM RIGHT THERE, THE DINING ROOM.
AND WHILE NONE OF THEIR ORIGINAL OBJECTS ARE STILL HERE IN THE HOUSE, YOU DO HAVE THIS ORIGINAL CONTRAPTION TO HINGE, LOCK AND OPEN THE DOOR.
AND YOU'VE GOT A RIFLE HOLE HERE YOU CAN STICK IT OU AND KEEP FROM BEING SEEN WHILE THEY'RE PROTECTING THEMSELVES.
AND I'M STARTING TO THINK THAT MAYBE SOME OF THEIR BOUNTY IS HIDDEN WITHIN THESE QUARTERS.
BUT WHERE, WHERE'S THE REST OF THEIR MONEY?! IT WASN'T JUST NOTORIOUS BANDITS LIKE BUTCH CASSIDY AND THE SUNDANCE KID WHO CHOSE TO MAKE THIS PART OF PATAGONIA THEIR HOME.
BACK ON ROUTE 40, I'M CONTINUING MY JOURNEY SOUTH BEFORE MAKING A SHOR DETOUR TO TREVELIN A TOWN FOUNDED BY THE WELSH 130 YEARS AGO.
FIVE HOURS LATER, I REACH MY DESTINATION.
AH, MADE IT, TREVELIN.
FEEL LIKE I'VE BEEN "TREVELIN" ALL DAY LONG.
TREVELIN WAS ESTABLISHED IN 1885 BY A SMALL PARTY OF WELSH IMMIGRANTS WHO MADE THE LONG AND ARDUOUS JOURNEY FROM THEIR HOMELAND, SEEKING TO ESCAPE OPPRESSION IN THE TOWN'S MUSEUM, I'M MEETING MARIA EVANS, A DESCENDANT OF THOSE BRAVE PIONEERS.
IN YOUR FAMILY, WHICH RELATIVES WERE THE FIRS TO COME HERE? YOUR GRAND PARENTS, YOUR GREAT GRAND PARENTS? MARIA EVANS: MY GREAT GRANDPARENTS.
ZAY HARDING: YOUR GREA GRAND PARENTS WERE SOME OF THE FOUNDING FATHERS OF THIS LITTLE TOWN.
MARIA EVANS: YES.
ZAY HARDING: THEY LANDED ON THE ATLANTIC COAST.
HOW DID THEY END UP HERE IN PATAGONIA? MARIA EVANS: BECAUSE INDIANS, THEY HAD VERY GOOD TRADE WITH THE INDIANS.
AND THEY WERE ALWAYS TELLING THEM THAT BY THE WES OF THIS COUNTRY THERE WERE MOUNTAINS AND RIVERS AND TREES AND FORESTS.
ZAY HARDING: LIKE A MYTHICAL PLACE THEY COULD COME TO AND EVERYTHING THEY WANT WOULD BE HERE.
MARIA EVANS: EXACTLY, MORE LIKE WALES.
BECAUSE THIS PLACE IS LIKE WALES.
IT TOOK ABOUT 20 YEARS TO ARRIVE AT LAST.
ZAY HARDING: LEARNING HOW TO FARM THE LAND FROM THE INDIANS, THEIR COMMUNITY SOON BEGAN TO PROSPER.
AND BEING STRICT PROTESTANTS, ONE OF THEIR FIRS ACTS WAS TO BUILD A CHAPEL, WHICH IS STILL HERE TODAY.
HOW DID THEY MANAGE TO PRESERVE THEIR LANGUAGE SO LONG? YOU WALK AROUND TOWN, THEY'RE STILL SPEAKING WELSH.
THIS IS IN A FOREIGN LAND.
MARIA EVANS: BECAUSE THEY CAME TO THE CHAPEL TO LEARN WELSH.
AND TO PRACTICE THEIR RELIGION AS WELL.
ZAY HARDING: THEY LEARNED WELSH IN THE CHAPEL? MARIA EVANS: YES, THEY DID.
THE CHAPEL WAS THE CENTER OF THE CULTURAL ACTIVITIES OF THE VALLEY.
ZAY HARDING: WAS IT LIKE BACK HOME WHERE YOU DRESS UP FOR CHURCH OR WAS IT VERY CASUAL? MARIA EVANS: THEY WOULD DRESS UP NICE.
VERY NICE PARTY TO COME.
YES OF COURSE.
ZAY HARDING: BEFORE I LEAVE, MARIA AGREES TO PLAY ME A TRADITIONAL WELSH HYMN THIS IS AMAZING.
THE WELSH CAME HERE OVER 150 YEARS AGO AND YE RIGHT IN HERE I FEEL LIKE I'M IN WALES WITH A PATAGONIAN BACKDROP.
NOWADAYS, THE DESCENDANTS OF THOSE EARLY PIONEERS HAVE BECOME TRULY INTEGRATED INTO ARGENTINA AND MANY HAVE BECOME SUCCESSFUL FARMERS.
I'M TRAVELING TO AN ESTANCIA AN HOUR'S DRIVE OUT OF TOWN TO MEET MARIA'S SON, A WELSH GAUCHO.
STARTING TO SEE A FEW CATTLE ON THE SIDE OF THE ROADS.
THIS IS WHERE ALL THE GAUCHOS KEEP THEIR CATTLE DURING THE SUMMER.
THE HIGHLANDS OF TREVELIN.
THE FIRST GAUCHOS WERE DESCENDANTS OF SPANIARDS AND NATIVE PEOPLES AND ARE RENOWNED FOR THEIR SKILLED HORSEMANSHIP.
WHEN THE WELSH ARRIVED, THEY TAUGHT THEM THE TECHNIQUES OF TENDING CATTLE.
AND NOW IT'S MY TURN TO BE TAUGHT THE SKILLS HE GOT HIM.
THAT'S AWESOME.
HE'S A FIGHTER.
ALEJANDRO: HI, HELLO, HOW ARE YOU.
ZAY HARDING: I'M ZAY.
ALEX: SO YOU WAN TO BE A GAUCHO.
ZAY HARDING: I'D LOVE TO BE A GAUCHO.
TIME FOR MY FIRST LESSON.
HOW TO LASSO ALEJANDRO: OK, WANT SOME HELP? ZAY HARDING: BUT LASSOING FORM A HORSE TAKES YEARS TO MASTER AND I DON' FANCY MY CHANCES.
ALEJANDRO: USE THIS WITH ONE HAND ZAY HARDING: AND LASSO WITH THE OTHER.
ALEJANDRO: YOU CAN TRY FIRST.
ZAY HARDING: DON'T GET SCARED.
OK, SO, I'M GOING FOR A LITTLE GUY, RIGHT? OH, I'M DOING I FOR HERE, RIGHT HERE.
OH, OKAY.
ALEJANDRO: I DON'T BELIEVE YOU! ZAY HARDING: OK, LET GO, LET GO, LET GO, LET GO.
BEGINNERS LUCK.
ALEJANDRO: YOU ARE GOING TO TAKE MY JOB.
ZAY HARDING: I LOVE THE FEELING OF WHAT IT FEELS LIKE TO WRANGLE A LITTLE CALF.
THAT SOUNDS HORRIBLE, DOESN'T IT? NOW I'VE CAUGHT THE CALF, THE NEXT STEP IS TO LEARN HOW TO HOLD IT DOWN.
ALEJANDRO: YOU SEE IT KICKING.
ZAY HARDING: YEP, HE SURE IS! KIND OF BRUTAL BUT YOU ALSO DON'T WANT HIM TO BE IN CHARGE.
GOT TO SHOW HIM WHO'S BOSS.
ALEJANDRO: WANT TO TRY TAKE IT DOWN? ZAY HARDING: 1, 2, 3.
[GRUNTS.]
.
OH, HE GOT ME GOOD.
ALEJANDRO: THE TWO OF US? YOU HERE.
ZAY HARDING: 1, 2, 3.
GIVE ME A TAIL.
ALRIGHT, GO PLAY.
DOES THAT MEAN I GET THE JOB? ALRIGHT, I WEAR THE TROPHY.
I'M A GAUCHO.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH, THAN YOU VERY MUCH! MY NEXT SHOW WILL BE IN ONE HOUR.
AFTER A HARD DAY'S WORK, IT'S TIME TO EAT GAUCHO STYLE.
JUST CARVE IT OFF.
WHAT TYPE OF BEEF IS THIS? ALEX: BEEF, THAT'S A GAUCHO FOOD.
BEEF AND MATE.
ZAY HARDING: I CAN LIVE WITH THAT.
ALEX: ME TOO.
ZAY HARDING: AND WINE? ALEX: WINE, OF COURSE.
THIS IS A VERY POPULAR WELSH SONG.
THE NAME IS CALON LAN.
[SONG PLAYING, "CALON LAN".]
.
[SINGING IN WELSH.]
.
ZAY HARDING: WHA A BEAUTIFUL SONG.
AND HOW COOL THA IT'S SO TRADITIONAL.
I DIDN'T EXPECT YOU TO COME UP WITH A WELSH SONG.
I WAS ACTUALLY THINKING, YOU'RE THE GAUCHO YOU'RE GOING TO COME UP WITH THIS, YOU KNOW ALEJANDRO: WHEN THE FIRS PEOPLE FROM WALES CAME TO PATAGONIA THEY MIXED WITH THE NATIVES.
WE ARE COMING FROM THAT MIXTURE.
ZAY HARDING: SO YOU DON' CONSIDER YOURSELF MORE WELSH THAN ARGENTINEAN? ALEJANDRO: I AM ARGENTINEAN AS ALL MY FAMILY IS SINCE THE DAY THEY ARRIVED HERE.
I FEEL THE WELSH CULTURE I FEEL AS MINE TOO.
ZAY HARDING: I SAY YOU'VE GOT THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS AND I'M SURE YOUR ANCESTORS WOULD BE VERY, VERY PROUD OF YOU FOR SUSTAINING THOSE ROOTS.
ALEJANDRO: YES, I THINK SO.
IT'S A NICE IDEA.
ZAY HARDING: EIGHT IN THE MORNING AND IT'S TIME TO HI THE ROAD AGAIN.
BUT BEFORE I LEAVE TREVELIN, I HAVE ONE MORE THING TO DO SOUTH OF HERE, FUEL STOPS ARE FEW AND FAR BETWEEN SO I CAN'T AFFORD TO TAKE ANY CHANCES.
HAVING FILLED UP, I HEAD SOUTH.
AND JUST OUT OF TOWN, I PASS THE NEXT FUEL STOP.
HERE'S THE GAS STATION.
THE LINE STARTS HERE AND GOES ON AND ON AND ON AND ON ALL THESE PEOPLE ARE WAITING IN LINE FOR GAS.
THIS COULD TAKE HOURS.
DRIVING ON, I BEGIN THE 460 MILE JOURNEY DOWN ROUTE 40 TO CUEVA DE LAS MANOS, THE CAVE OF THE HANDS, AND ITS EARLY ROCK ART.
OUTSIDE TOWN, THE ROAD TURNS TO GRAVEL, SLOWING MY PROGRESS, AND AS DARKNESS FALLS, I STOP FOR THE NIGHT AT AN ESTANCIA NEAR THE CAVES.
THE NEXT MORNING, I SET OFF FOR NEARBY CUEVA DE LAS MANOS THERE'S A BUNCH OF GUANACO.
THEY'RE THE WILD CAMELS OF PATAGONIA.
YOU SEE THEM ALL OVER.
THEY'RE BEAUTIFUL.
THEY LOOK LIKE LLAMAS BUT SKINNIER NECKS.
GOT TO BE CAREFUL BECAUSE THEY SPIT AT YOU AND KICK AND BITE.
THIS IS WHEN OFF-ROADING IS FUN, WHEN IT GOES UP AND DOWN.
WHEN IT'S STRAIGH GRAVEL IT'S NOT SO FUN, IT'S JUST REALLY DUSTY.
MORE BUMPS.
THERE IT IS DOWN THERE.
HOME TO ONE OF THE FINES EXAMPLES OF PRE-COLUMBIAN ROCK ART IN SOUTH AMERICA, CUEVA DE LAS MANOS IS NOW A WORLD HERITAGE SITE.
BUT FIRST, I HAVE TO GET THERE.
IT'S A WALK FROM HERE.
YEAH, YOU CAN DRIVE TO THE CAVE BUT WHY WOULD YOU WANT TO WHEN THE BEST WAY TO APPRECIATE THE SETTING OF IT, WHICH IS RIGHT OVER THERE, IS TO WALK ACROSS THE CANYON.
THIS AREA WAS INHABITED OVER 9,000 YEARS AGO BY HUNTER-GATHERERS, ATTRACTED BY THE ABUNDANCE OF FOOD IN THE VALLEY AND THEY LEFT THEIR MARK ON THE CAVES WHERE THEY SHELTERED WITH OVER 2,000 PAINTINGS OF HANDS.
NATALIA MAURONE IS AN EXPERT ON THE SITE.
GUIDE: THEY USED TO PLACE THEIR HAND ON THE WALL, PUT PAINT IN THE MOUTH AND BLOW.
DIRECTLY FROM THE MOUTH OR USING A TOOL.
THIS TOOL WAS THE BONE OF AN ANIMAL.
ZAY HARDING: REALLY? LIKE A STRAW THEY WERE BLOWING THROUGH.
WHAT WERE THEY USING FOR PAINT? GUIDE: COLORED SOIL, IRON OXIDE WITH BLOOD, WATER AND HOT CLAY.
ZAY HARDING: SO SOIL, BLOOD, WATER AND CLAY.
NO-ONE KNOWS WHY THE HUNTER-GATHERERS PAINTED THESE HANDS BUT THEORIES INCLUDE IT BEING PART OF A RITUAL OR SIMPLY A STATEMENT TO SAY THERE WERE HERE.
BUT OTHER PAINTINGS A THE SITE TELL US FAR MORE ABOUT HOW THESE PEOPLE ACTUALLY LIVED GUIDE: HERE I'M GOING TO SHOW YOU ONE OF MY FAVORITE PICTURES.
LOOK AT THESE GUANACOS HERE.
CAN YOU SEE THE HUNTER THERE? IT'S VERY TINY.
ZAY HARDING: THE PAINTINGS SHOW HUNTERS WORKING IN TEAMS TO SURROUND AND TRAP HERDS OF GAUNACOS BEFORE STRIKING THEM WITH STONES.
THIS IS DIRECT EVIDENCE OF HOW HUNTERS AND GATHERERS WERE LIVING 9,000 YEARS AGO ISN'T IT? GUIDE: YES, THIS IS A VERY IMPORTANT PLACE AND FOR ARCHAEOLOGISTS IT'S AMAZING.
ZAY HARDING: I'M HEADING SOUTH FROM CUEVA DE LOS MANOS ALONG ROUTE 40, BEFORE TAKING A DIVERSION TO EL CHALTEN AND LOS GLACIARES NATIONAL PARK.
IT'S A 400 MILE JOURNEY WHICH I'M TOLD CAN TAKE UP TO 12 HOURS.
AND BEFORE LONG, IT'S TIME TO FILL UP.
RUNNING OUT OF GAS HERE.
OK SO MOMENT OF TRUTH.
YOU KNOW WHAT, TRYING TO SUCK THE FUEL AND PREVENT A MOUTHFUL OF DIESEL IS HARDER THAN IT LOOKS.
UGHHH! WHAT HAPPENED? THE BACK CAME OUT! TIME TO TRY A DIFFERENT TECHNIQUE.
THERE WE GO! THAT SHOULD BE, FILL HER UP THERE PLEASE! GOT TO SAY, I'M QUITE PROUD AT THIS MOMENT.
ANYWAY THAT IS HOW YOU FILL UP A GAS TANK.
DON'T ANYONE LIGHT A MATCH AROUND ME RIGHT NOW.
CONTINUING MY JOURNEY TO EL CHALTEN, I TURN OFF ROUTE 40 AND HEAD WEST.
AND ALL OF A SUDDEN, THE VAS PATAGONIAN STEPPE BEGINS TO GIVE WAY TO SOMETHING TRULY SPECTACULAR.
I'M DRIVING ALONG FOR THE LAST 8 HOURS AT NOTHING BUT FLAT PLAINS EVERYWHERE AND ALL OF A SUDDEN I TURN THE CORNER AND IT'S NOT JUST MOUNTAINS; IT'S MOUNTAINS WITH A VENGEANCE.
LOOK AT THAT! WOW, GORGEOUS! LOOKS LIKE THE CLOUD IS JUST HUGGING THE MOUNTAIN LIKE A GIANT GLACIER.
EL CHALTEN WAS ESTABLISHED IN 1985 DURING A BORDER DISPUTE WITH CHILE.
NOWADAYS, IT PROVIDES THE STARTING POINT FOR SOME OF THE MOST SPECTACULAR TREKKING IN THE WHOLE OF THE COUNTRY.
ALL RIGHT, WE MADE IT.
BEHIND ME IN THE VALLEY IS MT.
FITZ ROY, ONE OF THE MOST ICONIC MOUNTAINS IN THE WORLD.
I'VE GOT TO SAY THAT I AM REALLY LOOKING FORWARD TO HIKING UP TO THE BASE OF IT TOMORROW.
I JUST HOPE THE CLOUDS CLEAR SO I CAN SEE IT.
TODAY I'M DOING ONE OF THE BEST DAY TREKS IN THE NATIONAL PARK.
STARTING IN EL PILAR, I PASS THE MIGHTY PIEDRAS BLANCAS GLACIER AND CLIMB UP TO LAGO DE LOS TRES.
OFFERING SPECTACULAR VIEWS OF MT.
FITZ ROY BEFORE RETURNING TO EL CHALTEN.
MY GUIDE IS ADRIAN WHO HAS LIVED IN THE AREA FOR OVER 20 YEARS.
ADRIAN: SO WE'RE GOING TO WALK ON THIS VALLEY.
THIS IS THE BLANCO RIVER VALLEY.
AND WE'RE GOING TO SEE THE SOURCE OF THIS WATER.
WE CAN SEE FITZ ROY UNDER THE CLOUDS.
ZAY HARDING: I'M GETTING FREEZING.
CAN WE START WALKING? ADRIAN: LET'S GO.
ZAY HARDING: LOS GLACIARES NATIONAL PARK IS A SANCTUARY FOR RARE FLORA AND FAUNA.
ADRIAN, AS A FORMER PARK RANGER, SOON SPOTS SOMETHING AMONGST THE TREES.
[WOODPECKER PECKING.]
ADRIAN: YOU HEAR THAT? THAT'S THE NOISE OF THE WOODPECKER.
ZAY HARDING: WOODPECKER? WHAT A WEIRD THING TO DO TO WHACK YOUR HEAD INTO A TREE.
ADRIAN: THEIR TONGUE IS WORKING AS AN AIRBAG FOR HIS BRAIN.
WHEN HE HITS THE TREE LOOKING FOR THE WORM SO HAS THIS PROTECTION.
IT'S THE GIAN MAGELLANIC WOODPECKER.
ZAY HARDING: GIANT, LOOK OUT! ADRIAN: IT'S THE BIGGES OF THE THREE WOODPECKERS.
ZAY HARDING: I WAS EXPECTING IT TO BE THIS SMALL.
ADRIAN: HERE WE HAVE THE BEAUTIFUL VIEW OF THE FITZ ROY MOUNTAIN.
ZAY HARDING: BEHIND THE FITZ ROY RANGE IS THE THIRD LARGES ICECAP IN THE WORLD, FEEDING A NUMBER OF IMPRESSIVE GLACIERS.
YOU CAN SEE WHY IT'S CALLED WHITE ROCK.
ADRIAN: PIEDRA BLANCA'S GLACIER.
WE CAN SEE THE UPPER PART.
THE PLACE WHERE, WHERE THE GLACIER GETS ALL THE SNOW.
THEN THIS SNOW, TRANSFORMS ON ICE.
AND THE ICE, THE WHITE OF THIS ICE PUSHES IT DOWN.
ZAY HARDING: IT GRINDS ITSELF A VALLEY, PUSHES OFF ALL THE EXCESS TO THE SIDES.
ADRIAN: EXACTLY.
ZAY HARDING: SO FAR, THE WALK HAS BEEN SURPRISINGLY GENTLE.
BUT THINGS ARE ABOUT TO CHANGE AS WE START THE TRAIL UP TO LAGO DE LOS TRES.
HOW HIGH ARE WE GOING TO BE GOING? ADRIAN: WE ARE GOING TO REACH 1200 METERS.
NOT BAD IN THIS KIND OF WEATHER.
PRETTY NICE.
LOOK AT THE CLOUDS AND VIEW.
ZAY HARDING: THIS IS THE WALL OF GREATNESS.
THIS IS LIKE WALKING INTO AN AMAZING PIECE OF ARTWORK.
ADRIAN: THIS IS CALLED THE LAGO DE LOS TRES.
AND THE GLACIER IS CALLED GLACIER DE LOS TRES.
ZAY HARDING: I COULD JUST STARE AT THIS ALL DAY.
AS A MATTER OF FACT, I'M GOING TO LAY DOWN AND STARE AT IT FOR A WHILE.
THIS IS YOUR BACK YARD, DUDE.
ADRIAN: LUCKILY THERE'S A POLICY OF THE NATIONAL PARK TO KEEP IT NON COMMERCIAL.
EVERYTHING IS CONCENTRATED IN TOWN.
EL CHALTEN.
SO KEEP IT NATURAL.
I HOPE IT REMAINS IN THIS WAY.
ZAY HARDING: THE FINAL DAY OF MY EPIC ROAD TRIP AND IT'S TIME TO LEAVE EL CHALTEN.
I'M ATTEMPTING TO REACH THE FAR SOUTH OF THE ARGENTINEAN MAINLAND, CUTTING ACROSS TO RIO GALLEGOS WHERE I REJOIN ROUTE 40 AND DRIVE TO THE END OF THE ROAD AT CABO VIRGENES.
BUT AS SOON AS I LEAVE EL CHALTEN, SOMETHING BY THE ROADSIDE CATCHES MY EYE.
WOW, JUST DRIVING ALONG AND I SEE ALL THESE CONDORS HERE.
USUALLY THEY'RE SO HIGH THEY LOOK TINY.
LOOK, LOOK, LOOK AT THAT, LOOK AT THAT! TAKING FLIGHT.
WHOO, WOW, AWESOME.
I DRIVE ON FOR ANOTHER FIVE HOURS TOWARDS CABO VIRGENES.
BUT AS I REACH THE FINAL 100 MILES OF ROUTE 40, THE ROAD SUDDENLY DETERIORATES.
AS THE COUNTDOWN TO THE END CONTINUES, THE ROADS ARE GETTING ROUGHER AND ROUGHER.
IT'S ALMOST LIKE THEY WANT TO SEE HOW BADLY DO I WANT TO GET THERE.
I AM GOING TO GET TO ZERO ON THIS ROUTE.
I'VE COME TOO FAR.
TOO FAR.
NOTHING'S GOING TO STOP ME NOW.
GETTING VERY CLOSE.
ABOUT 10 KILOMETERS LEFT IT'S GETTING A LITTLE BI DARKER AND THE RAIN IS COMING DOWN A LITTLE BIT HARDER MY HEART IS POUNDING A LITTLE BIT FASTER.
I JUST ENVISION A BIG FAT SIGN THAT SAYS, "YOU'VE REACHED KILOMETER ZERO, THE END OF YOUR ROUTE.
" HERE IT IS THE MOMENT I'VE BEEN WAITINGOR.
ROUTE 40 KILOMETERS ZERO! WOW, CAN'T BELIEVE I MADE IT.
I'M HERE.
I'M FINALLY HERE.
IN THE NICK OF TIME, TIME TO WATCH THE SUNSET.
KILOMETER ZERO.
WOW, THIS HAS NOT JUS THE END OF A JOURNEY ON ROUTE 40 THROUGH PATAGONIA, THIS IS THE END OF A JOURNEY FOR ME ALL THE WAY FROM THE TOP OF ARGENTINA ALONG ROUTE 40.
I WANTED AN ADVENTURE.
I GOT WAY MORE THAN AN ADVENTURE.
IT'S NOT JUS ABOUT THE ROAD, IT'S ABOUT THE ROUTE OF ARGENTINA.
THE PEOPLE, THE CULTURE, THE LANDSCAPE, THE WILD LIFE.
EVERYTHING IS HERE.
COME HERE, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT.
YOU WILL NOT BE DISAPPOINTED.
THANK YOU TO MY TRUSTY CAR WHO GOT ME HERE.
AND NOW I'M DONE.
THROWING AWAY THE KEYS! WOO! NARRATOR: STAY TUNED FOR A SPECIAL "GLOBE TREKKER" EXTRA.
ANNOUNCER: FUNDING FOR THIS PROGRAM IS PROVIDED BY, SUBARU.
WOMAN: AT SUBARU, WE BUILD VEHICLES LIKE THE RUGGED OUTBACK.
WITH SYMMETRICAL ALL-WHEEL DRIVE AND PLENTY OF CARGO SPACE.
FOR THOSE WHO PACK EVEN MORE ADVENTURE INTO LIFE.
SUBARU, A PROUD SPONSOR OF GLOBE TREKKER.
MAN: YOU CAN FIND OUT MORE ABOU THIS SERIES ON OUR WEBSITE.
PROGRAMS FROM THE GLOBE TREKKER SERIES ARE AVAILABLE ON DVD AND NOW ON DEMAND FROM GLOBETREKKER.
TV.
MUSIC FROM THE SERIES IS AVAILABLE ON CD, YOU CAN ALSO ORDER THE NEW GLOBE TREKKER ANNUAL FEATURING INFORMATION ON FESTIVALS, EVENTS AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES.
TO ORDER GLOBE TREKKER PRODUCTS CALL 888-565-0361 OR VISIT THE WEBSITE WWW.
GLOBETREKKERTV.
COM HOLLY MORRIS: RAIN OR SHINE I'M NO FAN OF GLITZ, SO I'M HEADING FURTHER EAS WHERE THE HIGH RISE AND THE CAR ARE NOT WELCOME.
ONE ROAD ENDS AND ANOTHER BEGINS.
THERE'S ONLY ONE WAY TO CABO POLONIO AND IT'S IN ONE OF THESE, RIGHT OVER THE SAND DUNE.
THIS NEXT ONE? OK.
[SONG PLAYS IN SPANISH.]
.
WHAT A PERFECT SPOT.
FIRST THE REVEAL OF THE OCEAN AND THEN OFF IN THE DISTANCE THE SETTLEMEN OF CABO POLONIO.
THIS IS INCREDIBLE, IT'S LIKE "GILLIGAN'S ISLAND" MEETS "MAD MAX.
" VERY STRANGE.
CABO POLONIO WAS NOTHING MORE THAN A TINY FISHING COMMUNITY WHEN A SMALL GROUP OF HIPPIES MOVED HERE BACK IN THE 1960'S.
USING ONLY BASIC BUILDING MATERIALS THEY CREATED MAKE-SHIFT HABITATS AND SLOWLY GREW THE PLACE INTO THE SIZABLE SETTLEMENT YOU SEE TODAY.
DESPITE LIMITED ACCESS TO ELECTRICITY, AUTOMOBILES AND FRESH WATER CABO POLONIO NOW BOASTS SEVERAL RESTAURANTS, SHOPS AND PLACES TO STAY AND IT'S BECOME A MECCA FOR TRAVELERS SEEKING A ROUGH AND READY VACATION EXPERIENCE.
I'M STAYING AT A POSADA RIGHT NEAR THE BEACH.
HOLA, HELLO, ANYONE HOME? HI.
ROBERT: HELLO, GOOD AFTERNOON.
HOLLY MORRIS: GOOD AFTERNOON, I'M HOLLY.
ROBERT: WELCOME HOME, I'M ROBERT.
CAN I HELP YOU WITH YOUR BAG? HOLLY MORRIS: SURE, THANK YOU.
ROBERT: PLEASE, FEEL AT HOME.
HOLLY MORRIS: THIS PLACE IS FANTASTIC.
ROBERT: THERE IS A PUBLIC LIBRARY.
HOLLY MORRIS: UH-HUH, OH WOW.
ROBERT: YOU CAN SEE THE LIGHTS? THERES NO ELECTRICITY HERE.
WE USE BATTERIES THAT WE CHARGE WITH SOLAR PANELS.
HOLLY MORRIS: OK.
THIS IS AMAZING.
ROBERT: THE BATHROOM, THERE'S ONE UP THERE.
HOLLY MORRIS: YEAH? ROBERT: AND THERE'S ONE INSIDE.
HOLLY MORRIS: OH WOW, THE BATHROOM IS A WORK OF ART.
CHECK THIS OUT.
SHOWER COMING OUT OF A BUCKE AND MY FAVORITE DETAIL THE UMBRELLA OVER THE TOILE IN CASE YOU NEED TO DO YOUR BUSINESS IN A RAINSTORM.
WOMAN: EVERYBODY TOLD US THAT IT'S LIKE THE PLACE YOU HAVE TO GO TO AND IT'S AFTER BEING THERE I WOULD REALLY SAY THE SAME.
LIKE, IT'S KIND OF MYSTERIOUS.
WOMAN 2: THERE'S NOT MUCH TO DO.
I MEAN, THERE'S THE BEACH AND THERE IS THERE'S SOME BARS WHERE YOU CAN GO TO AND THE PEOPLE I DON'T KNOW, THE FOOD WAS REALLY GOOD.
WOMAN: IT'S NOT REALLY A PLACE FOR ACTIVITIES IT'S MORE ABOU RELAXING AND ENJOYING LIFE.
WOMAN 2: YEAH, I THINK SO TOO.
HOLLY MORRIS: JUS BECAUSE THERE'S NO ELECTRICITY DOESN'T MEAN I'M CONDEMNED TO WEARING MY STINKY ROAD CLOTHES.
FOUND A WASHING MACHINE.
JUST PUT IN A LITTLE DAB OF SOAP OR SHAMPOO I FIND, PRETTY MUCH, ANYTHING WORKS EXCEPT MAYBE TOOTHPASTE.
AND THEN, OVER TO THE WELL.
GET YOUR WATER.
OK, THAT'S GOOD ENOUGH.
I'M HAVING A "LITTLE HOUSE ON THE PRAIRIE" MOMENT HERE.
OK, THEN YOU DUMP THE WATER INTO YOUR WASHING MACHINE.
ALL RIGHT, THEN YOU PUT IT ON "WASH.
" RIGHT, AND THEN FOR THE POWER SOURCE.
GO THROUGH YOUR WASH CYCLE, YOUR RINSE CYCLE, YOUR SPIN CYCLE AND ALL THE WHILE, ENJOY THE VIEW.
[WAVES CRASHING.]
.
NO ELECTRICITY, NO INTERNET.
I CAN HEAR THE SURF OUT MY WINDOW AND IT'S A FULL MOON.
THIS IS MY DEFINITION OF A PERFECT MOMENT.